FRANKLIN  INSTITUTE  LIBRARY 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


The 

Dyeing  and  Cleaning 

of 

Textile  Fabrics 

A  Handbook 
for  the  Amateur  and  the  Professional 

By  F.  A.  OWEN,  B.  S. 

Based  partly  on  notes  of 
H.  C.  STANDAGE 


FIRST  THOUSAND 
FIRST  EDITION 


NEW  YORK 


JOHN    WILEY    &  SONS 

London  :  CHAPMAN  &  H/iLL,  LIMITED 
1909 


COPYRIGHT,  1909 

BY 

F.  A.  OWEN 

Entered  at  Stationers1  Hall 


Klectrotyped  and  Printed  by  the  Publishers  Printing  Co.,  New  York,  U.  S.  A. 


PUBLISHER'S  NOTE. 


After  the  death  of  the  late  Mr.  Standage,  the  pub- 
lishers, who  had  already  issued  one  of  his  books, 
came  into  possession  of  a  lot  of  miscellaneous  recipes 
and  notes  which  he  had  collected,  the  greater  part  of 
which  concerned  the  subject  of  dyeing  and  cleaning. 
These  had  not  been  properly  revised  and  were  not 
in  such  form  as  to  be  of  use;  we  therefore  asked  a 
well-known  American  dyer,  Mr.  Owen,  to  revise  them 
for  publication.  The  result  finally  was  that  Mr.  Owen 
re- wrote  the  whole,  and  is  responsible  for  the  book 
in  its  present  shape;  he  is,  indeed,  as  regards  the 
greater  part  of  it,  the  author. 

iii 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/dyeingcleaningofOOowen_0 


PREFACE. 


In  placing  before  the  reader  these  useful  recipes 
and  processes  it  has  been  necessary  to  use  some  terms 
not  familiar  to  everyone,  and,  therefore,  some  pages 
are  first  taken  up  with  a  description  and  elucidation 
of  such  matters  as  may  reasonably  be  supposed  to 
need  explanation.  The  different  processes  are  class- 
ified as  much  as  possible,  and  directions  for  dyeing 
occupy  the  first  part  of  the  book,  while  cleaning  and 
re-dyeing  are  treated  afterward.  Some  recipes  do 
not  admit  of  exact  classification,  and  some  are  ap- 
plicable to  more  than  one  class  of  materials;  but  it 
is  hoped  that  by  a  frequent  use  of  the  index,  which 
it  has  been  the  intention  to  make  fairly  complete, 
the  user  of  the  book  will  be  able  to  find  what  he  needs. 

In  the  renovating  of  wearing-apparel,  cleansing 
and  pressing  are  all  that  are  usually  attempted  at 
home;  but  it  is  desired  to  show  that  more  than  this 
is  practicable.  On  the  subject  of  renovating  by  dye- 
ing there  is  a  very  general  lack  of  knowledge  and 
information;  dyers,  as  a  class,  being  the  most  secret- 
ive of  mortals.  A  fairly  complete  account  of  all  the 
ordinary  processes  practised  in  the  art  of  dyeing  is 
therefore  given,  and  a  description  of  the  various 
classes  of  dyewares  in  common  use;  from  a  perusal 

v 


vi 


PREFACE. 


of  which  it  is  hoped  that  it  may  be  possible  to  decide 
not  only  whether  any  article  of  clothing  admits  of 
re-dyeing,  but  also  what  dyewares  and  what  method 
of  applying  thenf  should  be  used.  A  list  of  a  few 
reliable  dealers  in  dyestuffs  is  given;  these  were 
selected  without  the  knowledge  of  these  dealers,  and 
it  is  not  intended  to  cause  any  prejudice  against  other 
reputable  dealers,  of  whom  there  are  many;  but  it 
seemed  desirable  to  name  a  few.  The  package  dye, 
although  good,  is  expensive  except  for  the  very 
smallest  undertaking. 

Errors  and  omissions  there  undoubtedly  are;  but 
in  almost  all  cases  the  processes  and  materials  have 
been  tested  by  long  use  by  the  writer,  and  if,  as  is 
intended,  the  directions  are  sufficiently  explicit,  and 
if  they  are  intelligently  followed,  good  results  may 
be  reasonably  expected. 

F.  A.  Owen. 

November,  1908. 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING  OF 
TEXTILE  FABRICS. 

Solution. 

Solutions  are  fluids,  usually  water,  in  which  has 
been  dissolved  an  appropriate  quantity  of  any  soluble 
substance,  or  substances,  to  impart  to  it  its  peculiar 
properties.  When  any  other  fluid  than  water  is  the 
dissolving  medium  the  solution  derives  its  name  from 
the  solvent  used.  Thus  with  water  it  is  called  an 
aqueous  solution,  with  alcohol,  a  spirit  or  alcoholic 
solution.  An  alkaline  or  acid  solution  is  named 
similarly,  and  usually  has  a  prefix  to  designate  the 
acid  or  alkali  used.  Neutral  solutions  are  neither 
acid  nor  alkaline,  though  an  acid  or  alkaline  solution 
may  be  made  neutral  by  adding  to  it  acid  to  just 
combine  with  the  alkali  present,  or  vice  versa.  A 
saturated  solution  is  so  called  when  the  fluid  used 
for  the  solution  has  dissolved  all  that  it  can  hold  of 
any  substance,  i.e.,  until  it  will  dissolve  no  more. 
Solids  should  be  crushed  or  pulverized,  to  expose  the 
largest  surface  possible  to  the  solvent  action  of  the 
liquid.  Substances  that  in  the  lump  would  remain  for 
days  undissolved,  when  reduced  to  powder  are  lique- 
l  1 


2 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


fied  in  a  short  time.  When  a  solid,  as  salt  or  alum, 
is  placed  in  a  vessel  to  dissolve,  it  rests  on  the  bottom. 
The  water  surrounding  it  becomes  saturated,  and, 
being  heavier,  remains  also  at  the  bottom,  so  that 
the  solution  proceeds  very  slowly.  By  stirring,  the 
solution  is  hastened,  but  this  takes  up  much  time. 
The  best  plan  is  to  suspend  the  salt  in  a  colander  or 
basket,  or  coarse  bag,  at  the  surface  of  the  liquid. 
As  the  particles  of  water  take  up  the  particles  of  salt 
they  become  heavier  and  sink;  others  take  their 
places,  dissolve  more  of  the  salt  and  sink  in  their  turn, 
so  that  action  is  constant  and  rapid,  and  always  at 
that  part  of  the  liquid  most  capable  of  dissolving 
things. 

Precipitation. 

This  is  quite  the  opposite  of  solution.  It  is  the 
method  of  obtaining  solid  matter  by  mixing  two 
solutions,  or  more,  of  substances  containing  elemen- 
tary equivalents  having  a  mutual  affinity,  or  chemical 
attraction  for  each  other.  The  fluid,  or  reagent, 
added  to  another  to  produce  a  precipitate  is  called 
the  precipitant.  Unless  otherwise  directed,  it  is  best 
to  warm  a  solution  about  to  be  precipitated  and  to 
add  the  precipitant,  gradually  stirring  all  the  time, 
with  a  clean  rod  of  glass  or  other  inert  material,  until 
a  precipitate  ceases  to  form.  After  standing  some 
time  to  settle  (subside),  a  drop  more  of  the  precipitant 
is  added  to  be  sure  the  precipitation  is  complete;  if 
the  admixture  remains  clear  and  unchanged  the  re- 
action is  complete  and  the  fluid  may  be  poured  off  (de- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


3 


canted)  from  the  precipitate,  which  is  filtered  if  neces- 
sary, washed,  and  dried.  Where  the  precipitate  is 
the  chief  object  of  the  process  it  is  usually  necessary 
to  wash  it.  Often  this  may  be  done  by  pouring  over 
it  fresh  water,  allowing  to  again  subside  and  pour  off 
(decant)  as  many  times  as  necessary.  If  the  pre- 
cipitate is  partly  soluble  in  water  more  care  has  to 
be  taken,  or  to  wash  with  some  fluid  not  having  a 
solvent  action  upon  it.  The  fluid  left  after  precipita- 
tion is  called  the  filtrate,  and  where  the  process  is 
to  purify  a  fluid  the  precipitate  is  neglected  and  the 
"clear"  (filtrate)  poured  off  for  use. 

Infusion. 

When  the  principles  to  be  extracted  are  soluble  in 
water,  and  at  the  same  time  but  slightly  volatile, 
boiling  water  is  poured  on  the  substance  of  which  the 
infusion  is  to  be  made,  the  vessel  is  carefully  covered, 
and  the  whole  allowed  to  remain  untouched  for  some 
minutes,  or  even  hours,  according  to  the  greater  or 
less  solubility  and  penetrability  of  the  substance,  and 
the  required  strength  of  the  infusion.  If  an  infusion 
is  required  of  dried  leaves  or  flowers,  they  are  first 
moistened  with  a  little  boiling  water,  and  a  time 
allowed  for  them  to  'swell  and  soften  before  adding 
the  rest  of  the  water.  Infusions  made  by  adding  all 
the  water  at  once,  as  is  frequently  practised,  are 
deficient  in  both  flavor  and  perfume.  Infusions  of 
all  vegetable  substances  that  do  not  exert  a  very 
powerful  action  upon  the  human  system  may  be 
made  by  pouring  one  pint  of  water  on  one  ounce  of 


i 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


the  vegetable  matter  and  allow  to  macerate  for  from 
\  to  1  hour.  The  ordinary  dose  of  such  substances 
in  infusions  is  1  to  2  oz.  three  or  four  times  per  day. 
Infusions,  like  decoctions,  are  liable  to  undergo  spon- 
taneous decomposition  by  standing,  especially  in 
warm  weather,  when  a  few  hours  are  often  sufficient 
for  their  passage  into  a  state  of  active  fermentation; 
they  should,  therefore,  be  prepared  for  use  daily, 
as  beyond  24  hours  they  cannot  be  depended  upon. 
Infusions  should  always  be  made  in  vessels  that  can- 
not be  attacked  by  any  of  the  substances  with  which 
they  are  in  contact,  and  closed  sufficiently  tight  to 
prevent  the  loss  of  the  most  volatile  component. 
New  tin  fills  the  requirements  very  well,  especially 
if  provided  with  a  cover. 

Maceration. 

When  an  infusion  is  made  without  the  aid  of  heat 
it  is  termed  maceration.  This  takes  a  much  longer 
time  than  an  infusion,  properly  so  called;  it  rarely 
requires  less  than.  7  days,  sometimes  several  weeks.  * 
In  many  distillations  this  method  is  made  use  of 
to  soften  the  substance  before  putting  it  in  the  still, 
and  to  facilitate  the  extraction  of  its  odorous  prin- 
ciple. Tinctures,  when  made  by  maceration,  should 
be  frequently  shaken  during  the  process,  which 
should  be  conducted  in  glass  vessels  well  stoppered. 
Digestion  is  a  prolonged  infusion  which  is  usually 
conducted  at  a  medium  temperature,  between  that 
employed  for  an  infusion  properly  so  called  and  that 
of  a  maceration.   Its  object  is  usually  to  impregnate 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


5 


alcohol  with  the  principles  of  a  substance  which 
would  be  but  slowly  extracted  without  the  aid  of 
heat,  such  as  the  sun  or  other  warm  situation.  What- 
ever the  nature  of  the  vessels  employed,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  fill  them  too  full,  also  to  cover  those 
that  are  to  be  placed  on  the  sand  bath  with  a  damp 
piece  of  parchment  or  paper  tied  around  the  top, 
with  pin  holes  pricked  in  it.  If  this  is  neglected  the 
expansion  and  increased  volume  of  air  or  vapor  may 
burst  it.  Moreover,  the  process  is  not  so  well  con- 
ducted where  the  vessel  is  too  full. 

Decoction. 

Decoctions  are  solutions  of  the  properties  of  vege- 
tables obtained  by  boiling,  which  is  presumed  to  be 
a  more  effective  method  of  extracting  their  properties 
than  by  mere  infusion.  For  making  decoctions  the 
substances  should  be  well  bruised,  or  reduced  to  very 
coarse  powder,  or,  if  fresh  and  soft,  they  should  be 
sliced  small.  In  the  former  case  any  very  fine  powder 
or  adhering  dust  should  be  removed  with  a  sieve,  as 
its  presence  would  tend  to  make  the  product  thick 
and  disagreeable,  and  also  more  difficult  to  strain. 
The  vessel  in  which  decoctions  are  made  should  be 
furnished  with  an  accurately  fitting  cover,  the  better 
to  exclude  the  air,  and  the  heat  so  regulated  that  the 
fluid  may  be  kept  just  simmering,  or  only  gently  boil- 
ing, as  violent  boiling  is  not  only  quite  unnecessary, 
but  absolutely  injurious.  In  every  case  the  liquor 
should  be  strained  while  hot,  but  not  boiling,  and 
the  best  method  of  doing  so  is  to  employ  a  fine  hair 


6 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


sieve,  or  coarse  flannel  bag.  In  general  it  is  found 
that  as  decoctions  cool  there  is  a  sediment  formed, 
in  consequence  of  the  boiling  water  dissolving  more 
of  the  vegetable  matter  than  it  can  retain  when  cold. 
This  deposit  consists  for  the  most  part  of  the  active 
principles  of  the  solution,  and  should  be  mingled 
with  the  clear  liquid  by  agitation  when  the  decoction 
is  used.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  common  practice 
of  leaving  the  straining  or  filtration  until  the  liquid 
has  become  cold,  and  also  of  rejecting  the  sediment, 
is  injurious,  and  should  be  scrupulously  avoided,  as, 
however  much  decoctions  so  prepared  may  please 
the  eye,  they  are  not  only  inferior  in  strength,  but, 
in  many  cases,  entirely  inert.  It  may  be  further 
remarked  that  long  boiling  is  in  no  case  necessary, 
but  should  be  avoided,  especially  in  decoctions  pre- 
pared from  aromatic  vegetables,  or  those  abounding 
in  extractive.  Distilled  water,  or  perfectly  clean  rain 
water,  should  alone  be  used  for  decoctions.  Spring 
and  river  water,  from  their  containing  lime,  have  less 
solvent  powers.  Decoctions  of  vegetables  not  exert- 
ing a  very  powerful  influence  on  the  human  system 
may  be  made  by  boiling  one  ounce  of  the  vegetable 
matter  in  one  pint  of  water  for  10  to  15  minutes. 
The  dose  of  such  a  decoction  is  the  same  as  a  similar 
infusion,  viz.,  1-2  oz.  3  or  4  times  daily.  When  the 
medicinal  properties  of  vegetables  are  volatile,  or  are 
injured  by  heat,  infusions  should  be  had  recourse  to, 
in  preference  to  boiling;  but  when  a  solution  of  the 
fixed  constituents  alone  is  sought,  decoction  is  prefer- 
able.   In  preparing  compound  decoctions,  those  in- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


7 


gredients  should  be  boiled  first  which  least  readily 
impart  their  active  principles,  and  those  that  most 
readily  impart  should  be  added  afterward.  In  many 
cases  it  will  be  proper  simply  to  infuse  the  more 
aromatic  substances  in  the  hot  decoction  of  the  other 
ingredients,  by  which  means  their  volatile  principles 
will  be  preserved. 

Concentration. 

This  is  the  evaporation  of  part  of  a  liquid  in  order 
to  increase  the  strength  of  what  remains.  The  opera- 
tion can  only  be  performed  on  solutions  of  substances 
not  volatile  to  an  appreciable  extent  at  temperatures 
at  which  their  solvent  boils.  Water  is  volatile  at 
all  temperatures,  hence  its  solutions  of  substances 
may  almost  invariably  be  concentrated  at  some  tem- 
perature without  loss  or  decomposition  of  the  sub- 
stance. Water  also  boils  at  very  low  temperatures 
in  a  partial  vacuum,  of  which  property  the  vacuum 
pan  in  sugar-making  is  a  very  good  illustration. 
Many  of  the  acids,  alkalies,  etc.,  are  concentrated 
by  boiling  down  or  distilling  off  their  water. 

Crystallization. 

Soluble  substances  are  crystallized  by  the  evapora- 
tion of  their  saturated  solutions.  The  tendency  in 
crystallizing  is  to  eliminate  impurities,  and  is  very 
largely  practised.  Certain  salts  also  will  crystallize 
at  temperatures  at  which  others  in  the  same  solution 
do  not,  and  if  the  temperature  be  carefully  regulated, 
systematic  processes  of  separation  of  various  bodies 


8 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


in  the  same  solution  can  be  worked  out  on  a  large 
scale.  The  solutions  before  crystallizing  are  filtered 
and  decanted  or  in  some  way  mechanically  freed  from 
as  many  impurities,  discolorations,  slimy  deposits, 
etc.,  as  possible.  Crystals  form  also  from  the  gaseous 
state.  Crystals  always  assume  a  definite  and  dis- 
tinctive shape,  which  distinguish  certain  substances 
from  other  similar  bodies.  Metals  in  a  state  of  fusion 
often  form  crystals  when  slowly  cooled. 

Decantation. 

This  is  the  operation  of  pouring  off  the  clear  portion 
of  a  liquid  from  its  sediment.  This  is  performed  by 
gently  inclining  the  vessel,  or  by  means  of  a  siphon. 
When  a  liquid  is  set  aside  to  settle  for  future  decanta- 
tion by  the  first  method  it  is  best  to  use  a  bell-shaped 
vessel  or  one  provided  with  a  lip,  for  convenience  in 
pouring,  as  in  decanting  from  a  full  vessel  with 
straight  sides  the  liquid  is  apt  to  flow  down  the  out- 
side of  the  vessel.  This  can,  however,  be  obviated  by 
holding  a  glass  rod,  or  a  stick,  previously  wetted  with 
the  liquid,  nearly  upright,  with  one  end  resting  in 
o;-  suspended  over  the  receptacle  into  which  the  liquid 
is  to  be  decanted;  the  liquid  is  poured  gently  down 
the  upper  side  of  the  stick,  keeping  the  rim  of  the 
vessel  in  contact  with  it.  The  liquid  will  be  more 
attracted  by  the  wet  stick  than  the  dry  side  of  the 
vessel.  If  this  method  be  inconvenient,  or  from  the 
nature  of  the  vessel  impossible,  a  siphon  must  be 
used.  This  is  a  tube  of  glass  or  metal  bent  at  an  angle 
of  about  30°,  with  one  leg  or  end  longer  than  the  other. 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


9 


A  piece  of  India-rubber  tubing  makes  an  excellent 
and  easily  adjusted  siphon  for  decanting  liquids 
that  will  not  affect  rubber.  The  siphon  must  be 
first  filled  with  the  liquid,  then  the  shorter  leg  is 
inserted  in  the  liquid,  care  being  taken  to  keep  its 
extremity  always  below  the  surface,  and  the  liquid 
will  flow  out  continuously  through  the  longer  leg  as 
long  as  there  is  any  left  in  the  vessel.  For  decanting, 
caustic  liquids,  acids,  etc.,  special  siphons  are  con- 
structed that  may  be  filled  and  adjusted  with  no  fear 
of  the  person  coming  in  contact  with  those  corrosive 
substances. 

Heat  Regulation. 

In  cases  where  an  equable  heat  has  to  be  sustained 
at,  or  not  to  exceed,  a  certain  degree,  it  is  evident 
that  an  open  fire,  or  flame,  would  be  too  variable  for 
the  purpose.  To  obviate  this  difficulty,  the  vessel 
to  be  heated  is  placed,  immersed,  or  embedded  to  a 
convenient  depth,  in  another  vessel  containing  water, 
oil,  saline  solution,  sand,  molten  metal,  etc.,  as  cir- 
cumstances require,  to  which  heat  is  applied,  and 
whose  heat  can  be  regulated,  if  necessary,  by  the  ther- 
mometer. Steam  is  also  applied  for  this  purpose;  but, 
of  course,  requires  special  apparatus.  The  baths  most 
commonly  used  are  the  water  bath  and  the  sand  bath. 

The  Water  Bath. 

This  arrangement  is  used  where  the  heat  required 
does  not  exceed  212°  Fahr.,  and  consists  of  one  vessel 
within  another,  so  secured  that  they  cannot  come  in 
contact  at  any  point  below  the  level  of  the  water 


10 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


which  has  been  introduced  to  fill  the  space  between 
them.  A  common  double  glue-pot  is  a  water  bath, 
also  the  common  rice-boiler.  As  the  temperature  of 
water  in  an  open  vessel  cannot  be  increased  above 
its  boiling-point,  212°,  a  vessel  immersed  in  it  can 
never  be  heated  above  that  point,  and  by  keeping 
the  water  boiling,  this  degree  can  be  steadily  main- 
tained. Where  other  degrees  of  heat  are  requisite, 
glycerine  and  water,  or  nearly  pure  glycerine,  may 
be  used  to  raise  the  boiling-point.  Also  salt  in  sat- 
urated solutions,  alum,  borax,  oil,  or  any  substance 
whose  boiling-point  is  higher  than  that  of  water. 

The  Sand  Bath. 

An  iron  or  copper  dish  should  be  employed  for  this 
purpose.  Sufficient  river  or  sea  sand,  previously 
washed  clean  and  dried,  must  be  put  in  to  completely 
cover  the  bottom.  The  vessel  to  be  acted  upon  is  then 
introduced,  and  the  intervening  space  filled  up  to  the 
desired  height  with  sand,  and  the  whole  placed  over 
an  alcohol  lamp  or  a  furnace.  The  size  of  the  blaze  is 
proportioned  to  the  degree  of  heat  required,  and  the 
object  of  the  sand  bath  is  to  cut  off  direct  communi- 
cation with  the  fire  and  to  produce  a  gradual  and 
equable  heat. 

Distillation. 

Distillation  consists  in  vaporizing  a  liquid  in  one 
vessel  and  condensing  it  in  another  with  suitable  pipes 
or  other  means  for  conducting  the  vapors  to  the 
condensing  vessel.  The  process  is  used  for  separating 
a  liquid  from  a  solid  substance  with  which  it  may  be 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


11 


mixed;  for  impregnating  a  liquid  with  the  volatile 
principle  of  plants,  as  in  the  preparation  of  eau  de 
Cologne  and  other  aromatic  spirits,  and  for  separating 
a  more  volatile  liquid  from  one  less  so,  as  alcohol 
from  water.  Distillation  is  not,  however,  confined 
to  liquids,  as  in  simple  distillation,  but  solids  may 
be  heated  under  similar  conditions,  but  to  far  greater 
temperatures,  and  the  volatile  constituents  con- 
ducted, condensed,  and  parted,  by  having  several 
condensing  chambers  at  different  temperatures,  grad- 
uating finally  to  cold  at  the  exit.  Destructive  dis- 
tillation and  fractional  condensing  are  very  largely 
practised  with  coal  and  petroleum  products,  and  in 
the  distillation  of  wood  in  tar  works. 

Desiccation. 

The  drying-off,  or  evaporation,  of  the  aqueous  por- 
tion of  solid  bodies.  Plants  and  chemical  preparations 
are  deprived  of  their  humidity  by  exposure  to  the 
sun's  rays,  a  current  of  dry  air,  an  atmosphere  ren- 
dered artificially  dry  by  sulphuric  acid,  calcium 
chloride,  etc.,  or  by  the  direct  application  of  heat  by 
means  of  the  water  bath,  sand  bath,  or  a  common  fire. 
Planks  and  timber  are  now  seasoned,  on  a  large  scale, 
in  this  way,  by  which  a  condition  may  be  attained 
in  2  or  3  days  which,  on  the  old  system  of  spontaneous 
evaporation,  took  as  many  years. 

Granulation. 

The  reduction  of  metals  into  grains,  drops,  or  coarse 
powder.   This  is  done  by  pouring  them  in  the  melted 


12 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


state  into  water.  The  same  effect  is  obtained  by 
agitating  the  molten  metal  until  cold  in  a  wooden 
box  well  chalked  inside.  In  many  cases  the  metal 
is  allowed  to  run  through  holes  of  a  kind  of  colander 
or  sieve  to  produce  minute  division;  if  the  drops  are 
allowed  to  fall  from  a  sufficient  height  they  will 
become  spherical.  In  this  way  lead  shot  are  made. 

Pulverization. 

The  reduction  of  any  substance  to  powder  is  gen- 
erally performed  by  pestle  and  mortar,  or  on  a  larger 
scale,  by  stamping,  grinding,  or  milling.  Some  soft 
substances,  like  carbonate  of  magnesia,  carbonate  of 
lead,  etc.,  may  be  pulverized  by  rubbing  through  a 
fine  sieve;  while  many  soft  substances,  such  as  chalk, 
fuller's  earth,  antimony,  etc.,  are  pulverized  on  the 
large  scale  by  elutriation,  while  others  yield  only  to 
the  rasp  and  file.  Whichever  way  is  used,  the  sub- 
stance must  be  very  dry,  and  may  need  artificial 
drying  or  desiccation.  On  the  other  hand,  some  sub- 
stances, as  rice,  sago,  nux  vomica,  etc.,  are  often 
soaked  in  water,  or  steamed,  before  being  pulverized. 
In  some  cases  some  other  substance  or  intermedium 
is  introduced  to  aid  in  the  operation;  thus,  sugar  is 
used  in  pulverizing  civet,  musk,  nutmeg,  and  vanilla, 
absorbing  the  moisture  that  could  not  otherwise  be 
readily  got  rid  of.  The  addition  of  a  very  small 
quantity  of  alcohol  renders  the  powdering  of  camphor 
easy.  Gold  leaf  is  pulverized  by  mixing  with  carbon- 
ate of  potassa  and  afterward  washing  out  the  potassa 
with  water.    Fusible  metals  are  reduced  to  powder 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


13 


by  melting  and  rubbing  in  a  mortar  until  cold,  or  by 
violent  agitation  of  the  fusion  in  a  box  coated  with 
chalk  or  whiting.  Glass,  quartz,  and  silicated  stones 
require  to  be  heated  red-hot  and  quenched  with 
water  to  make  them  friable  for  pulverization.  When 
powdering  very  dusty  or  costly  articles  in  a  mortar, 
it  should  be  covered  with  a  loose  skin  of  leather, 
fastened  loosely  around  the  top  of  the  mortar  and  the 
pestle,  to  prevent  the  loss  of  the  dust  and  possible 
injury  to  the  operator's  lungs.  When  a  substance 
has  to  be  reduced  to  an  impalpable  powder,  a  slab 
and  muller  are  used.  This  process  is  also  called  por- 
phyrization. 

To  Obtain  Vegetable  Juices  by  Expression. 

The  juices  of  fresh  plants  are  obtained  by  bruising 
the  fresh  leaves  in  a  mortar  (a  mortar  of  marble  is 
best),  or  in  a  mill,  and  expressing  the  juice,  which, 
after  standing  (defecation)  for  some  hours,  is  either 
filtered  through  paper,  or  its  albuminous  matter  is 
coagulated  by  heat  and  then  strained.  Some  plants 
require  the  addition  to  the  crushed  mass  of  J  its 
quantity  of  water  before  pressing.  The  expression 
of  the  juice  of  apples,  lemons,  oranges,  peaches,  or 
grapes  is  facilitated  by  the  addition  of  some  clean 
chopped  straw.  Grapes,  mulberries,  etc.,  are  often 
crushed  and  left  from  3  to  7  days  to  undergo  a  slight 
fermentation  before  pressing.  A  powerful  screw  press 
is  required  for  this  purpose.  The  preservation  of  the 
juice  of  the  narcotic  plants,  and  some  other  vege- 
tables, has  assumed  considerable  interest,  from  these 


14 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


preparations  having  been  proposed  as  substitutes  for 
common  tinctures.  It  appears  that  the  juice  of  young 
plants  just  coming  into  flower  yields  only  §  the 
amount  of  extract  which  may  be  obtained  from  the 
same  amount  of  juice  expressed  from  the  mature 
plant,  or  when  the  flowers  are  fully  blown;  and  the 
strength  of  the  product  is  always  inferior.  The  leaves 
alone  should  be  preferably  employed,  and  should  be 
exclusively  of  the  second  year's  growth,  where  the 
plants  are  biennials.  Allow  the  juice  to  remain  for 
24  hours  in  a  cool  place,  then  decant  the  clear  portion, 
add  \  part  by  measure  of  alcohol  (90%),  agitate,  and 
after  24  hours  again  decant  the  clear  liquid  and  filter 
through  paper.  Keeps  well  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances. In  making  a  corresponding  tincture,  to  the 
fresh  bruised  leaves  add  an  equal  weight  of  rectified 
spirit  (alcohol),  and  after  maceration  for  15  days, 
the  whole  is  pressed  and  the  resulting  tincture  filtered. 
The  commencing  dose  of  narcotic  juice  is  about  5 
drops.  In  the  above  manner  are  prepared  the  pre- 
served juices  of  aconite,  belladonna,  colchicum,  hem- 
lock, henbane,  foxglove,  etc. 

To  Extract  Essential  Oil  from  Wood,  Bark,  Roots, 
Herbs,  Etc. 

Put  the  material  into  a  bottle  and  pour  over  it  a 
spoonful  of  ether;  keep  in  a  cool  place  for  a  few  hours, 
well  stoppered,  and  then  fill  the  bottle  with  cold 
water;  the  essential  oil  will  float  upon  the  surface 
and  may  be  easily  separated. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


15 


Specific  Gravity 

is  the  density  of  the  matter  of  which  any  body  is 
composed  compared  with  the  density  of  another 
body,  assumed  as  the  standard,  or  1,000.  This  stand- 
ard is  pure  distilled  water  for  liquids  and  solids,  and 
atmospheric  air  for  gases  and  vapors.  Specific 
gravity,  unless  otherwise  expressed,  is  always  taken 
at  60°  Fahr.  In  most  cases,  however,  it  is  sufficient 
to  note  the  temperature  and  to  apply  a  corrective, 
depending  on  the  known  density  of  water  or  air  at 
the  different  degrees  of  the  thermometric  scale.  The 
above  plan  has  been  adopted,  because  the  weight  of 
an  equal  bulk  of  different  substances  varies  greatly. 
Thus,  as  gold  is  19  and  silver  10  times  heavier  than 
water,  those  numbers,  19  and  10,  are  said  to  represent 
the  specific  gravity  of  gold  and  silver.  Alcohol  is 
about  |  as  heavy  as  water,  and  as  the  strength  of 
spirituous  liquor  depends  upon  the  amount  of  alcohol 
it  contains,  this  strength  is  simply  found  out  by  its 
specific  gravity,  and  is  indicated  by  the  depth  to 
which  a  little  instrument,  called  a  hydrometer,  will 
sink  in  the  spirituous  liquor.  The  weaker  the  spirit- 
uous liquor  the  less  the  hydrometer  sinks,  and  vice 
versa,  but  is  always  expressed  by  numbers  less  than 
1,000,  or  by  decimals  less  than  1.  The  lightest  of  all 
liquids  has  a  specific  gravity  of  0.6,  or  T6^-  that  of  water. 
Common  air  is  about  800  times  lighter  than  water; 
illuminating  gas  about  2,000;  and  pure  hydrogen 
12,000  times  lighter  than  water.  The  heaviest  sub- 
stance known  has  about  250,000  times  more  weight, 


16 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


bulk  for  bulk,  than  the  lightest.,  The  specific  gravity 
of  solids  not  soluble  in  water  is  found  by  weighing 
them  in  air  and  again  immersed  in  water,  thus  getting 
the  weight  of  the  water  they  displace.  Divide  the 
weight  in  the  air  by  the  loss  of  weight  in  water  and 
the  result  is  the  specific  gravity.  If  the  solid  is  soluble 
in  water,  it  must  be  weighed  in  some  liquid  in  which 
it  is  not  soluble,  and  thus  determine  its  specific 
gravity  as  compared  to  that  liquid,  and  then  multiply 
the  result  by  the  specific  gravity  of  that  liquid. 
Liquids  or  gases  must  be  weighed  in  a  bottle  of  known 
capacity  and  divide  that  weight  by  the  weight  of  an 
equal  bulk  of  water;  the  quotient  is,  as  before,  the 
specific  gravity.  Powders  insoluble  in  water  are 
weighed  along  with  water  in  a  weighing-bottle;  the 
bottle  will  hold  as  much  less  water  as  the  bulk  of 
the  powder,  and  the  weight  of  the  powder  in  air 
divided  by  this  loss  will  give  the  specific  gravity. 
Thus,  supposing  the  bottle  to  hold  1,000  grains  of 
water,  100  grains  of  emery  are  introduced,  and  the 
bottle  filled  with  water;  if  no  water  were  displaced 
the  two  should  weigh  1,100  grains;  they  really  weigh 
1,070  grains;  the  difference,  30  grains,  is  the  weight 
of  the  water  displaced:  100-^-30=3.333,  the  specific 
gravity  of  emery. 

To  Determine  the  Weight  of  a  Body  from  its 
Specific  Gravity. 

A  cubic  foot  of  water  weighs  about  1,000  ounces; 
hence,  to  determine  the  weight  of  a  given  bulk  of 
any  body,  the  specific  gravity  of  which  is  known, 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


17 


multiply  the  cubic  contents  in  feet  by  1,000,  and  this 
by  the  specific  gravity,  and  the  product  will  be  the 
weight  in  ounces  avoirdupois. 

The  Influence  of  Temperature  on  Specific  Gravity. 

The  percentage  of  absolute  alcohol  in  any  spirituous 
liquor  may  be  given  by  volume  or  weight,  but  as 
liquors  are  sold  by  measure,  not  weight,  it  is  generally 
preferred  to  know  the  percentage  by  volume;  the  per 
cent  by  weight  remains  the  same  at  all  temperatures, 
but  the  per  cent  by  volume  varies  with  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  liquid.  Many  instruments  have  been 
introduced  to  determine  the  quantity  of  absolute 
alcohol  contained  in  any  spirituous  liquors,  and  these 
are  known  as  hydrometers,  or  alcoholmeters.  Hy- 
drometers made  by  different  inventors  have  come  into 
use  in  different  countries,  so  that  it  is  necessary  to 
state  always  by  whose  hydrometer  the  operator  was 
working  in  making  any  determinations  of  this  kind. 
Tralles'  hydrometer  represents  t|-q  part  of  pure  or 
absolute  alcohol  for  each  of  the  100  divisions  on  its 
scale,  at  a  temperature  of  60°  Fahr.  When  the  in- 
strument is  floated  in  any  spirituous  liquor  at  60° 
Fahr.  it  immediately  indicates  the  strength;  for 
instance,  if  in  brandy  at  that  temperature  it  sinks 
to  65°,  it  shows  that  65  parts  of  the  liquor  are  abso- 
lute alcohol  and  35  parts  are  water.  Should  it  sink 
to  90,  it  indicates  that  the  liquor  is  90  parts,  or  90 
per  cent  in  strength.  An  increase  in  heat  causes 
liquids  to  expand  in  volume,  and  a  decrease  in  heat 


18 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


causes  contraction  of  volume ;  therefore  spirits  above 
the  normal  temperature  of  60°  Fahr.  appear  stronger 
than  they  are,  and  below  60°  they  are  really  stronger 
than  they  appear  to  be.  It  is  therefore  evident  that 
the  degrees  of  this  hydrometer  as  representing  per- 
centages are  correct  only  when  the  spirit  under  trial 
has  the  normal  temperature  of  60°  Fahr.  at  the 
moment  the  trial  is  made.  When  the  temperature 
varies  from  this  normal  60°,  the  true  percentage  can 
be  ascertained  only  by  a  long  and  tedious  calculation. 
To  avoid  calculation,  tables  have  been  prepared  by 
the  inventors  of  hydrometers  to  relieve,  as  far  as 
possible,  the  difficulties  involved  in  bringing  a  sample 
liquor  to  the  normal  temperature  for  testing,  whereby 
the  tests  are  applied  at  whatever  temperature  the 
liquor  happens  to  be,  and  this  carefully  noted,  and 
the  reading  of  the  instrument  corrected  from  the 
tables,  either  at  once  or  at  a  more  convenient  time. 
Proof  spirit  is  \  absolute  alcohol  and  \  pure  water 
by  volume.  If  it  contains  more  than  this  percentage 
of  alcohol  it  is  above  proof,  and  if  less  alcohol  than  \ 
by  volume  it  is  below  proof.  Hydrometers  are  made 
that  show  at  once  the  proof  of  a  spirituous  liquor. 
There  are  tables  provided  also,  reference  to  which 
will  show  what  proof  a  spirit  was  from  a  reading  on 
Tralles'  or  any  other  hydrometer,  or  specific-gravity 
instrument.  Tables  are  also  provided  whereby, 
knowing  the  proof  or  percentage  of  a  given  sample 
of  liquor,  the  volume  of  water  to  bring  it  to  proof 
is  at  once  given,  or  if  below  proof,  the  volume  of 
alcohol  of  90%  to  bring  it  up  to  proof. 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


19 


The  Hydrometer. 

This  is  an  instrument  made  use  of  to  determine 
the  amount  of  a  substance  in  solution  in  any  men- 
struum, usually  water.  They  are  made  for  liquids 
both  lighter  and  heavier  than  water.  Baume's 
hydrometer  is  most  commonly  used,  and  for  liquids 
lighter  than  water  is  poised  so  that  the  zero  of  the 
scale  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  stem  when  it  is  floating 
in  a  solution  of  1  oz.  of  common  salt  and  9  oz.  of  water, 
and  the  depth  to  which  it  sinks  in  distilled  water 
shows  the  10th  degree;  the  space  between  these  two 
points  being  equally  divided.  In  Baume's  hydrom- 
eter for  liquids  heavier  than  water  the  position  of  the 
fixed  points  is  reversed,  for  the  zero  is  at  the  top  of 
the  stem,  and  denotes  the  point  to  which  the  hy- 
drometer sinks  in  distilled  water;  the  10th  degree 
is  lower  down,  and  shows  the  level  to  which  it  sinks 
in  the  saline  solution,  and  the  graduation  is  continued 
downward.  This  variety  of  Baume's  hydrometer, 
when  plunged  in  pure  water  at  58°,  marks  zero  upon 
its  scale;  in  a  solution  of  15  per  cent  of  salt  and  85 
per  cent  of  water  by  weight,  it  marks  15°,  so  that 
each  degree  on  the  scale  is  meant  to  indicate  a  density 
corresponding  to  the  percentage  of  the  salt.  The 
temperature  at  which  Baume's  hydrometer  was 
originally  adjusted  was  54^°  Fahr.  It  is  now  com- 
monly adjusted  at  58  or  60°  Fahr.;  hence  arise  the 
discrepancies  observable  in  the  published  tables  of 
the  correspondence  between  degrees  of  Baume's  and 
real  specific  gravities. 


20 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Convert  Degrees  Baume  into  Specific  Gravity. 

For  liquids  heavier  than  water:  Subtract  the 
degrees  Baume  from  145,  and  divide  by  145;  the 
quotient  is  the  specific  gravity. 

For  liquids  lighter  than  water:  Add  the  degrees 
Baume  to  130,  and  divide  it  into  140;  the  quotient 
is  the  specific  gravity. 

To  Convert  Specific  Gravity  into  Degrees  Baume. 

For  liquids  heavier  than  water :  Divide  the  specific 
gravity  into  145,  and  subtract  from  145 ;  the  remain- 
der is  the  degrees  of  Baume. 

For  liquids  lighter  than  water:  Divide  the  specific 
gravity  into  140,  and  subtract  130 ;  the  remainder  is 
the  degrees  of  Baume. 

The  Art  of  Fixing  Coloring-Matters 

uniformly  and  "fast"  on  silk,  cotton,  wool,  linen, 
etc.,  is  called  dyeing.  It  is  a  chemical  process,  and 
the  process  varies  considerably  with  the  different 
fibres  mentioned.  The  fibres,  too,  have  different 
affinities  for  dyewares,  animal  fibres  far  exceeding 
vegetable  fibres  in  this  respect  with  most  of  the  dye- 
wares  in  use,  no  matter  whence  their  source. 

The  animal  fibres  in  their  natural  state  invariably 
require  to  be  cleansed  by  washing  in  water  containing 
soap  and  alkali,  either  potash  or  soda  ash.  Coarse 
wool  requires  less  scouring  material  than  fine,  but 
no  very  definite  directions  can  be  given  except  to 
say  that  the  scouring  bath  should  be  kept  as  near 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


21 


130°  Fahr.  as  possible.  There  should  be  soap  enough 
in  the  water  so  that  a  good  suds  will  form  when  briskly 
agitated,  and  alkali  sufficient  to  make  the  suds  "  stand 
up."  Unfortunately  the  unavoidable  tendency  of 
alkaline  solutions  upon  animal  fibres  is  to  enfeeble 
them,  i.e.,  they  break  with  less  strain  than  previous 
to  cleaning. 

Care  in  regulating  the  heat,  and  in  keeping  the 
alkali  content  of  the  bath  at  a  minimum,  just  sufficient 
to  insure  proper  cleaning,  is  essential,  or  serious 
weakening  of  the  fibre  may  result;  also  to  avoid  pro- 
longed contact  with  necessarily  pretty  strong  scour- 
ing-solutions ;  20  per  cent  of  the  natural  strength  of 
sheep's  wool  is  about  the  average  of  tensile  strength 
lost  in  the  alkali-soap-and-water  treatment  as  com- 
monly practised  in  woollen-mills,  and  often  far  ex- 
ceeds that. 

The  cleaning  of  sheep's  wool  by  volatile  solvents — 
whereby  is  meant  immersion  in  gasoline,  benzine, 
petroleum  ether,  carbon  disulphide,  etc.,  to  remove 
all  oily  matters,  followed  by  a  thorough  dusting,  so- 
called  willowing — entirely  obviates  very  objection- 
able effects  of  alkaline  scouring.  The  wool  is  entirely 
uninjured  in  strength  or  color.  The  strain  required 
to  break  the  cloth  made  from  it  is  very  greatly  in- 
creased, and  the  waste  in  carding  and  breakage  during 
spinning  and  weaving  very  much  lessened.  Time 
saved  from  no  breaking  of  warp  or  filling  is  consider- 
able; besides,  too,  all  knots  thus  made  must  be  after- 
ward removed  by  burling,  the  burlers  often  being  an 
expensive  part  of  mill  help. 


22 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


It  seems  very  strange  that  so  little  progress  has 
been  made  along  this  line.  The  facts  set  forth  as 
above  have  been  known  for  some  years,  but  owing  to 
the  extreme  conservatism  of  textile  manufacturers 
and  the  prejudice  and  fear  entertained  regarding  the 
use  of  volatile  and  inflammable  liquids  in  large  bulk 
among  people  not  familiar  with  them,  has  so  far  been 
sufficient  to  preclude  any  very  extended  or  persistent 
effort  to  bring  forth  a  perfected  mode  of  working. 
In  the  writer's  opinion,  based  upon  some  quite  ex- 
tended experiment  and  research  along  this  line,  one 
tithe  of  the  effort  expended  upon  the  perfection  of  the 
process  as  now  practised  for  the  production  of  syn- 
thetical colors,  as  indigo  or  alizarine,  directed  to  the 
perfection  of  methods  in  solvent  cleaning  of  wool, 
would  long  ago  have  brought  it  to  a  practical  every- 
day working  basis,  and  resulted  in  great  saving  of 
valuable  material,  now  a  menace  from  the  pollution 
of  the  streams  and  water-supply.  Silk  is  freed  from 
its  natural  coating  by  "  boiling  off"  with  rather 
neutral  white  soap  and  water. 

Cotton  fibres  may  be,  and  are,  mostly  colored 
"raw."  Substantive  colors  derive  their  name  from 
the  fact  that  they  impart  their  tint  by  simple  immer- 
sion of  the  material  to  be  dyed  in  their  aqueous  solu- 
tion at  elevated  temperatures.  Adjective  colors 
require  the  stock  to  be  first  prepared,  or  mordanted, 
which  is  done  by  boiling  woollen  material  in  a  bath 
of  water  containing  1  to  4  per  cent  of  potassium  bi- 
chromate or  sodium  bichromate.  In  ordinary  work 
washing  after  mordanting  is  not  practised.  The  dyer 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


23 


drains  off  the  mordanting  liquor,  throws  out  the 
stock,  refills  the  kettle  with  water  and  the  desired 
dyeware  dissolved  therein,  and  proceeds  at  once  to 
dye  the  stock.  Other  mordants  are  used  occasionally, 
acetate  of  iron,  alumina,  alum,  and  some  other 
chemicals. 

Cotton  may  be  mordanted,  "  boiling  under "  in  a 
bath  containing  5  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  cotton 
of  tannic  acid.  The  bath  is  manipulated  at  the  boil 
just  sufficient  to  insure  its  being  thoroughly  wet 
and  all  air  expelled,  and  left  to  stand  till  cold,  or 
over  night.  Drain  without  rinsing  and  immerse  for 
an  hour  in  a  cold  bath  of  tartar  emetic,  rinse  well 
with  cold  water,  and  it  is  ready  to  be  dyed. 

Silk  is  boiled  in  a  decoction  of  cutch.  Gambier 
and  catechu  are  other  names  for  cutch.  Cutchine  is 
a  purified  cutch.  The  strength  of  the  bath  is  governed 
by  the  depth  of  shade  finally  required.  Thirty  per 
cent  of  the  weight  of  the  silk  is  often  used  where  the 
ultimate  aim  is  black.  After  boiling  for  an  hour  the 
silk  is  withdrawn  from  the  cutch  bath,  squeezed  as 
free  from  liquor  as  possible,  and  put  at  a  simmering 
heat  in  a  bath  of  potassium  bichromate  1  to  4  per  cent 
of  the  weight  of  the  material.  This  develops  the 
brown  of  the  cutch  and  at  the  same  time  "fixes" 
the  bichromate  upon  the  silk.  This  may  be  repeated 
several  times,  adding  much  weight,  even  as  much  as 
\  the  weight  of  the  goods.  The  silk  will  now  dye 
with  decoction  of  logwood,  fustic,  or  any  mordant- 
dyeing  dyestuff.  Silk  in  delicate  shades  is  invariably 
dyed  on  white  material,  and  by  what  are  called  the 


24 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


direct-dyeing  processes  and  dyewares,  either  in  acid 
or  neutral  baths.  Linen  is  dyed  by  same  methods  as 
cotton. 

The  overchromed  colors  are  coming  very  prom- 
inently into  use.  A  single  boiling  only  is  required, 
and  much  time  and  labor  saved.  The  general  mode 
of  application  is,  with  woollen  material,  to  add  the 
required  dyewares  to  a  boiling-hot  kettle  of  suitable 
size.  The  dyewares  very  quickly  dissolve  and  become 
evenly  distributed  throughout  the  boiling  kettle. 
The  goods  are  now  entered,  a  gentle  boil  being  kept 
up  and  the  goods  handled  by  pole  in  case  of  garments 
or  loose  fibre,  or  a  reel  if  a  long  piece  of  cloth.  Some 
acetic  acid  is  added  soon  after  entering  the  goods. 
Vinegar  will  answer  very  well,  but  would  require 
2  pailfuls  for  100  lbs.  of  material  where  5  per  cent  of 
commercial  acetic  acid  is  enough.  After  §  hour  boil- 
ing with  the  acetic  acid,  sulphuric  acid,  sufficient  to 
exhaust  the  bath,  is  added;  3  to  5  per  cent  is  about 
right,  an  excess,  if  not  too  great,  being  not  objec- 
tionable. After  \  hour.the  bath  should  appear  nearly 
or  quite  exhausted,  when  1  to  3  per  cent  of  bichromate 
of  potash  is  added.  The  bichromate  of  potash  devel- 
ops the  color.  The  dry  bichromate  of  potash,  mixed, 
to  increase  its  bulk  and  evenness  of  effect,  with  about 
an  equal  bulk  of  crystallized  Glauber  salt,  may  be 
sprinkled  onto  loose  stock  with  no  fear  of  doing  injury. 
With  garments  or  yarn  they  may  be  lifted  out  and  the 
bichromate  of  potash  dissolved  in  the  bath  and  goods 
returned  for  \  hour  more  boiling.  If  the  goods  are  not 
now  dark  enough,  or  of  the  right  shade,  they  may  have 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


25 


additions  made  to  the  dye  bath,  in  which  case  it  is 
well  to  first  add  10  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  goods 
of  crystallized  Glauber  salt.  Many  dyers  add  this 
before  they  start  the  dyeing  at  all,  in  which  case  if 
the  shade  comes  out  right  the  Glauber  salt  is  the  same 
as  wasted.  If  the  Glauber  salt  is  not  on  hand,  it  is 
usually  best  to  draw  off  the  liquid  in  which  the  dyeing 
has  been  made  and  start  afresh.  The  goods  now  take 
color  the  same  as  any  chrome-mordanted  goods. 

With  dyewares  not  familiar  to  you,  notably  the 
bright  blues  and  greens,  it  is  best  to  try  a  small 
quantity,  say  a  \  oz.,  in  boiling  water.  With  several 
of  these  wares  it  may  happen  that  they  will  melt 
to  a  sort  of  wax,  very  difficult  afterward  to  get  into 
complete  solution.  In  this  event  they  must  be  first 
dissolved  in  cold  water  before  adding  to  the  dye  bath. 
In  fact  it  does  no  harm  to  stir  up  all  dyewares  with 
cold  water  before  adding  to  a  boiling  kettle  that  is 
being  got  ready  for  dyeing.  Glauber  salt  is  used  in 
dyeing  for  the  reason  that  dyewares  are  more  soluble 
in  water  containing  Glauber  salt  than  they  are  in 
pure  water.  The  effect  in  dyeing  is  that  the  color 
goes  on  to  the  material  more  slowly  and  evenly 
than  without  it. 

The  acid  dyeing  colors  are  those  that  give  their 
maximum  and  true  effect  by  simply  boiling  the 
material  to  be  dyed  in  water  containing  the  dye  to- 
gether with  an  acid.  Sulphuric  acid  is  most  com- 
monly used  and  Glauber  salt  equal  to  10  per  cent  of 
the  weight  of  material  is  added.  Sodium  bisulphate, 
a  very  acid  salt,  is  also  used,  and  may  satisfactorily 


26 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


replace  the  sulphuric  acid  and  Glauber  salt.  Many 
dyers  use  commercial  acetic  acid  equal  to  5  per  cent 
of  the  weight  of  the  material.  Acetic  acid  in  most 
cases  will  not  exhaust  the  bath,  but  it  starts  the  dye- 
ing, slowly  and  evenly,  and  then  sulphuric  acid  (com- 
monly called  oil  of  vitriol)  or  bisulphate  of  soda  is 
added  to  complete  the  dyeing.  Most  of  the  acid  dyes 
may  be  successfully  after-chromed.  The  shade  is 
usually  changed  thereby,  becomes  darker,  fuller,  and 
more  resistant  to  the  action  of  sunlight  and  all  things 
else  that  tend  to  fade  colors. 

The  direct  dyeing  colors  dye  in  a  neutral  bath. 
Many  of  them  will  dye  both  animal  and  vegetable 
fibres  to  approximately  the  same  shade  when  boiled 
together  in  the  same  dye  bath.  The  mode  of  operat- 
ing is  to  prepare  the  bath  at  or  near  the  boiling-point. 
In  dyeing  full  pieces  of  cloth  they  are  usually  sewn 
in  and  run  around  by  the  reel  until  thoroughly  wet, 
the  temperature  being  raised  in  many  cases  quite  to 
the  boil.  This  insures  the  thorough  wetting  and 
softening  of  the  goods  and  partial  correction  of  the 
hardness  of  the  water;  further  effort  in  that  direction 
is  often  made  by  addition  of  sal-soda  or  ammonia  to 
the  extent  of  2  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  goods. 
The  dyewares  have  meantime  been  dissolved  in  a 
side-tub.  The  steam  or  source  of  heat  is  removed 
and  the  dye  dipped  into  the  feed-box  and  the  cloth 
allowed  to  run  in  the  dye  J  hour  at  180°-200°  Fahr. 
The  cotton  or  vegetable  matter  contained  in  the  cloth 
dyes  better  at  temperatures  below  the  boiling-point 
and  above  180°  Fahr. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


27 


If  the  material  is  all  of  vegetable  origin  hard  boiling 
is  carefully  avoided.  If  some  animal  fibre  is  present 
the  goods  must  be  boiled,  but  not  longer  than  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  ensure  their  being  fully  dyed. 
The  dyer  determines  this  by  inspection.  The  tend- 
ency of  hard  boiling  is  to  transfer  color  from  the 
vegetable  fibres  to  the  animal  fibre.  When  it  is  evi- 
dent that  the  animal  fibre  in  union  goods  is  fully 
dyed  the  source  of  heat  is  removed  and  the  goods  run 
for  J  hour  more  at  heat  below  the  boil  with  the  addi- 
tion of  25  per  cent  of  common  table  salt,  best  added 
in  two  or  three  portions.  If  the  material  is  all  vege- 
table of  course  the  actual  boiling,  except  to  wet  out 
the  material,  may  be  mostly  dispensed  with  and  the 
salt  can  be  added  earlier  in  the  dyeing.  These  dye- 
wares  are  less  soluble  in  water  containing  salt,  and 
therefore  its  addition  causes  the  bath  to  exhaust 
more  completely.  The  penetration  and  evenness  is 
exceptionally  good.  The  dealers  in  dyewares  sell 
1-lb.  tins  of  all  the  powder  dyes  on  the  market  ;  the 
price  is  easily  within  the  reach  of  everyone.  They 
furnish  gratis  full  instructions  for  using  their  wares. 
The  householder  who  procures  a  few  pounds  each  of 
red,  yellow,  and  blue,  and  a  5-lb.  tin  of  black  for  union 
goods  will,  after  a  little  practice,  find  them  a  source 
of  pleasure  as  well  as  profit.  Bichromate  of  potash 
keeps  perfectly  and  can  be  readily  obtained  from  most 
druggists.  The  price  by  barrel  lots  is  about  8c.  per  lb. 
The  stronger  ammonia  (commercial  purity)  is  4  cents 
per  lb.  in  carboys.  Household  ammonia  is  1  part 
stronger  ammonia  and  4  parts  water. 


28  THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 

Sulphuric  acid  (commercial  purity)  costs  about 
1  cent  per  lb.  in  carboys.  For  use  it  is  safer  to  have 
it  reduced,  1  part  acid  to  4  parts  water.  Always  pour 
the  acid  into  the  water,  and  never  the  water  into  the 
acid.  The  union  of  sulphuric  acid  (oil  of  vitriol) 
with  water  produces  much  heating  of  the  mixture. 
If  the  water  should  be  poured  without  agitation  upon 
the  sulphuric  acid,  it  being  much  lighter  in  weight 
than  the  acid,  may  float  upon  it.  At  the  line  of  con- 
tact sufficient  heat  may  develop  to  cause  an  ex- 
plosion. Sulphuric  acid,  if  added  without  dilution 
to  hot  water,  produces  a  violent  explosion  at  once. 
Strong  sulphuric  acid  is  violently  corrosive,  but  not 
poisonous.  Sufficiently  dilute,  it  tastes  pleasantly, 
and  is  not  injurious.  Oxalic  acid  is  a  white  crystal- 
line substance,  is  poisonous,  and  used  largely  in  dye- 
ing along  with  bichromate  of  potash  as  a  mordant, 
§  as  much  oxalic  acid  as  bichromate.  It  does  not  at- 
tack in  dilute  solution  cotton  materials.  Sulphuric 
acid  ever  so  dilute,  if  spattered  or  spilled  upon  cotton 
cloth  and  allowed  to  dry,  makes  a  hole.  Therefore  if 
such  an  accident  occurs,  at  once  apply  dilute  ammonia 
liberally.  The  ammonia  is  completely  volatile  at 
ordinary  temperatures,  and  therefore  harmless  ex- 
cept to  mucous  surfaces,  as  the  eyes  or  mouth. 

Carbonizing. 

In  this  connection  it  may  be  interesting  to  note 
that  this  property  of  sulphuric  acid  has  a  very  exten- 
sive and  useful  application  in  the  removal  of  vegetable 
matters  from  woollen  material.  Wool  comes  to  mar- 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


29 


ket  frequently  just  loaded  down  with  burrs,  chaff,  and 
hayseed.  Tailor's  clips  and  old  garments  come  to 
the  shoddy-manufacturer  with  all  accidental  and  in- 
tentional mixtures  of  cotton  and  cotton  thread.  Also 
the  manufacturer  of  all-wool  goods  finds  that  even 
after  the  most  scrupulous  care  to  exclude  vegetable 
matters  and  cotton  from  his  goods,  there  is  still  a 
certain  quantity  that  gets  into  them  and  shows  up 
as  specks. 

These  objectionable  matters  are  all  cheaply  and 
expeditiously  removed  by  simply  soaking  the  wool 
rags,  shoddy,  or  cloth  in  a  5  to  7°  Baume  solution  of 
sulphuric  acid  (oil  of  vitriol),  removing  as  much  of 
the  "soak"  liquor  as  possible  by  draining,  centrifugal 
force  (hydro-extracting),  or  squeeze-rolls.  Then  the 
material  is  dried  and  finally  baked  in  an  oven  or  in 
some  way  heated  to  220  to  230°  Fahr.  for  half  an  hour. 
The  result  is  that  cotton  and  vegetable  matters  turn 
black  (burnt),  and  friction  and  rubbing  in  any  way 
causes  them  to  crumble  and  fall  out  as  dust.  The 
deleterious  action  upon  the  wool  fibre  is  not  very 
pronounced  if  the  process  is  expeditiously  carried  out, 
and  the  material  or  cloth  promptly  rinsed  and  neutral- 
ized after  rinsing  with  an  alkali — usually  sal-soda  or 
soda  ash.  In  case  the  acid  becomes  spattered  or 
spilled  on  woollen  materials,  especially  if  colored 
with  vegetable  dyes,  as  logwood,  fustic,  etc.,  the 
color  is  sure  to  be  affected  in  shade  if  the  acid  is 
allowed  to  dry  on  the  goods;  therefore  apply  ammonia 
to  them.  Some  caution  should  be  exercised  in  this 
case,  as  where  the  goods  are  acid-dyed  the  color  is 


30 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


removable  to  greater  or  less  extent  by  ammonia.  It 
follows  then  that  a  much  or  unevenly  faded  cloth  or 
garment  of  wool  or  silk  that  has  been  acid-dyed  may 
have  the  color  removed  by  boiling  the  goods  in  a  bath 
containing  ammonia.  It  is  also  a  fact  that  the  same 
coloring-matter  that  has  been  removed  (stripped) 
can  be  re-applied  to  the  goods,  thereby  restoring 
them  to  nearly  their  original  shade  by  simply  making 
the  bath  acid  and  returning  the  goods  and  boiling. 
Sulphuric  acid  is  most  used,  but  oxalic,  muriatic,  and 
in  some  cases  acetic  acid  will  do  the  work.  It  is 
erroneously  stated  that  boiling  woollen  cloths  in  am- 
monia is  injurious  to  the  goods.  This  is  true  if  carried 
to  extremes,  but  practically  is  not  to  be  considered, 
if  any  moderation  at  all  is  practised.  Woollen  cloths 
can  be  boiled  in  clear  water  until  tendered,  but,  as 
with  ammonia,  it  takes  a  long  time,  a  whole  day,  or 
even  more.  With  white  goods  of  any  kind  the  boiling 
with  ammonia  is  a  good  method  of  cleansing,  espe- 
cially if  the  goods  are  looked  over  first  and  any  spots 
or  stains  treated  according  to  their  nature  with  soap, 
or  a  drop  of  oil  and  then  soap,  if  of  an  oily  nature; 
fruit-  and  grass-stains  with  chlorine  water  or  eau  de 
javelle;  muriatic  or  oxalic  acid  in  case  of  rust.  A 
very  powerful,  and  in  skilful  hands,  a  good  spot- 
remover,  is  equal  parts  powdered  bichromate  of  potash 
and  oxalic  acid.  Damp  the  spot,  apply  the  mixture 
and  a  drop  or  two  of  water;  rinse  at  once,  when  the 
stain  seems  to  be  out.  Care  is  to  be  used  that  the 
spot  is  not  whiter  than  the  rest.  It  is  often  very 
difficult  to  tell  by  inspection  whether  there  is  any  cot- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


31 


ton  in  woollen  or  silk  goods.  This  matter  can  be 
settled,  and  also  the  percentage  of  admixture  deter- 
mined at  one  operation.  Procure  some  caustic  soda, 
or  caustic  potash,  no  matter  which.  Weigh  out  100 
grains  of  the  suspected  cloth;  put  it  in  an  earthen- 
ware dish  of  suitable  size,  a  tea-cup  or  small  bowl 
will  answer  very  well.  The  caustic  need  not  be 
weighed,  but  use  plenty  of  it.  It  is  laid  in  the  dish 
along  with  the  sample  to  be  tested.  Boiling  water 
in  a  thin  stream  is  turned  upon  them.  The  caustic 
unites  vigorously  with  the  water  and  it  boils  up  quite 
briskly.  Have  a  glass  rod,  a  piece  of  iron  wire, 
or  a  clean,  smooth  piece  of  wood  to  stir  up  the  con- 
tents of  the  dish.  In  5  minutes  the  whole  of  the  wool 
or  silk  is  dissolved,  or  formed  into  a  sort  of  soap 
that  will  wash  out.  Often  a  complete  fabric  will 
remain,  and  often  only  some  loose  threads  or  fibres. 
Collect  all  that  remain  by  straining  or  otherwise, 
wash  thoroughly,  dry,  and  weigh.  The  weight  gives 
the  percentage  of  cotton  direct.  For  the  purposes 
of  the  dyer  it  is  not  necessary  that  he  know  the 
percentage  of  cotton  and  wool  in  any  mixture 
very  accurately.  If  the  cotton  is  10  per  cent  and 
under  50  per  cent  would  be  as  close  as  necessary  to 
know. 

It  is  never  possible  to  tell  exactly  what  wares  have 
been  used  in  the  dyeing  ot  materials  purchased  for 
wear;  therefore  a  prudent  way  is  to  try  a  bit  of  it 
before  going  on  with  the  whole  piece.  In  the  case  of 
the  average  householder  it  is  expected  that  the  mate- 
rial to  be  dyed  will  be  somewhat  used,  will  be  soiled 


32 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


and  faded,  and  too  that  it  will  be  soiled  and  faded 
unevenly.  It  is  expected  also  that  the  materials 
may  shrink,  and  will  be  sure  to  do  so  unless  care  is 
taken  to  reduce  the  tendency  to  shrink  by  all  means 
possible.  It  will  be  found  that  woollen  and  silk 
articles  have  been  sewed  with  cotton  thread,  that 
there  is  cotton  mixed  with  them  in  their  manufacture, 
and  also  that  minute  bits  of  vegetable  matter  are 
scattered  through  them  and  will  appear  after  dyeing 
as  specks.  Unless  means  are  provided  to  cover  these 
intentional  or  accidental  admixtures,  the  work  of 
redyeing  will  be  more  or  less  unsatisfactory.  Dyeing 
and  redyeing  undertaken  at  home  is  apt  to  be  in  too 
small  a  kettle,  the  operator  has  other  things  on  hand 
to  do,  and  does  not  give  undivided  attention  to  his 
or  her  dye-kettle,  the  heat  is  so  applied  that  if  the 
goods  are  not  constantly  stirred  they  settle  against 
the  side  or  bottom  of  the  kettle,  and  local  heating 
causes  a  spot  darker  than  the  rest.  If  a  garment  is 
being  redyed  to  be  used  again  in  its  present  form, 
do  not  rip  it  in  any  part.  If  the  buttons  are  such  as 
to  be  injured  by  boiling,  take  them  off.  A  garment  to 
be  made  over  should  have  tucks  and  plaits  let  out. 
Hemmed  edges  in  many  cases  may  be  left  to  prevent 
raveling.  Look  over  the  job  carefully  before  you 
begin  that  all  the  requirements  of  the  case  are 
known  so  that  a  union  dye,  or  whatever  is  likely  to 
give  the  best  and  most  expeditious  results  may  be 
selected. 

Wooden  dye-kettles  heated  by  steam,  with  a  false 
bottom  to  keep  materials  away  from  the  source  of 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


33 


heat,  are  usually  to  be  preferred,  especially  for  dyes 
where  the  bath  is  expected  to  exhaust.  In  cotton 
dyeing  where  the  depth  of  shade  depends  upon  the 
concentration  of  the  bath  rather  than  upon  the  per- 
centage of  dyeware  used,  a  jacketed  copper  kettle 
is  best.  For  domestic  purposes  a  copper  wash- 
boiler  is  about  the  best  thing  available,  and  if  not 
crowded  with  materials,  and  well  stirred  all  the 
time  while  over  the  fire,  should  give  satisfactory 
results. 

Woollen  articles  should  not  be  taken  from  a  hot 
bath  and  plunged  into  cold  water.  They  should,  of 
course,  be  rinsed  after  dyeing,  and  in  many  cases 
should  be  scoured.  The  cloth  on  coming  from  the 
dye-bath  should  be  aired  to  cool  it.  If  the  article 
is  too  large  to  handle  in  that  way,  cold  water  may  be 
added  to  the  kettle  to  cool  it  down  after  the  dyeing 
is  complete. 

A  full  piece  of  cloth  is  tentered.  By  tentering  is 
meant  stretching  it  from  list  to  list  upon  tenterhooks 
set  a  standard  width  apart;  with  odd-shaped  pieces 
of  cloth  and  garments  this  is  not  so  easy  to  do.  Still 
if  before  dyeing  the  garment  is  laid  upon  some  flat 
surface  and  its  outline  marked  out  rather  larger  than 
true  size,  the  garment  can,  after  dyeing,  be  pinned 
or  in  some  way  fastened  out  until  dry.  Make  it  by 
stretching  fully  larger  than  before  dyeing,  as  it  will 
retract  some  when  taken  up  and  during  the  operation 
of  pressing.  Dry  the  garment  fully  before  proceeding 
to  repair  or  press  it. 

Black  is  composed  in  dyeing  principally  of  blue, 
3 


34 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


to  which  is  added  some  yellow  and  red  to  give  it  any- 
required  tone. 

Blue  is  shaded  in  the  same  way  as  black. 

Brown  is  composed  in  large  part  of  red,  and  is 
toned  by  addition  of  considerable  yellow  and  a  little 
blue. 

Green  is  composed  principally  of  blue  and  yellow; 
slight  additions  of  red  are  used,  and  darken  the  shade 
very  fast. 

Purple  and  lavender  are  composed  of  red  and  blue 
and  either  may  predominate. 

Orange  is  composed  of  yellow  and  red,  and  by 
addition  of  some  blue  shades  rapidly  toward  olive. 

Wine  color  is  red  principally,  with  very  little  of 
yellow  and  some  TV  part  of  blue. 

Maroon  is  brown  in  tone,  while  red  is  very  much 
in  preponderance. 

Grays  are,  like  all  colors,  composed  of  the  primary 
colors  red,  yellow,  and  blue.  In  practice  it  is  easier 
as  a  rule  to  combine  a  green  dye  with  a  brown  and 
black,  shading  at  the  last  with  yellow  if  necessary. 

Slates  are  bluish  gray  and  may  have  a  cast  toward 
brown. 

Tan  color  means  different  things  to  different  people, 
but  is  generally  accepted  to  mean  a  light  yellowish 
brown. 

Scarlet  is  a  red  shaded  with  yellow. 

Of  comparatively  recent  introduction  are  the 
strippines.  These  are  usually  white  powders,  soluble 
in  acidulated  water  with  the  aid  of  heat.  Each 
manufacturer  puts  out  one,  and  they  are  all  for  the 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


35 


same  purpose,  namely,  to  remove  coloring  matter 
from  fabrics. 

From  unmordanted  goods,  wool,  or  cotton,  the 
color  is  entirely  removed,  the  goods  coming  out 
nearly  white.  With  mordanted  goods  more  or  less 
color  remains,  very  thin  to  be  sure,  but  far  from 
white.  This  does  not,  however,  stand  in  the  way  of 
redyeing  most  shades  of  blue,  brown,  green,  or  quite 
full  shades  of  any  color.  Up  to  20  per  cent  of  the 
weight  of  the  goods  may  be  used  of  strippine  dissolved 
in  its  proper  solvent  and  added  to  the  bath  and  boiled 
for  some  time.  The  writer  prefers  to  add  the  dry 
strippine  (or  color-discharge  under  any  name)  along 
with  the  goods  in  the  bath,  and  after  working  them 
about  until  it  is  well  incorporated  and  the  bath  appears 
uniformly  of  a  milky  color,  then  add  the  acid  in 
properly  diluted  condition  in  small  portions  gradually 
during  the  heating  and  boiling.  If  any  doubt  exists 
as  to  whether  the  bath  at  the  end  of  the  boiling  is 
acid,  add  another  portion  of  acid,  as  the  maximum 
result  of  the  operation  is  obtained  only  when  the 
bath  is  finally  made  of  acid  reaction.  The  cloth,  or 
stock,  does  not  appear  to  be  sensibly  injured.  It  does 
not  do  to  apply  strippine  to  any  part  of  a  cloth  and 
afterward  put  the  whole  into  the  kettle  and  boil  with 
solution  of  strippine.  The  parts  so  treated  will  then 
come  up  much  more  affected  by  the  treatment  than 
the  rest  of  the  goods,  and  it  is  quite  a  difficult  matter 
to  get  the  goods  again  level.  This  material  is  much 
used  by  garment  dyers,  to  get  rid  of  the  original  color 
before  attempting  to  dye  the  shade  wanted  by  their 


36 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


customers,  especially  where  the  garment  has  faded 
unequally.  On  cotton  and  linen  goods  it  is  not  so 
rapid  in  many  cases  as  chlorine  or  bleaching  powder, 
but  there  is  less  risk  of  "tendering"  the  goods.  On 
woollens  chlorine  is  not  admissible  for  this  purpose, 
as  it  tenders  the  goods  and  attacks  the  mordant. 

Union  dyes  are  at  present,  and  probably  will  con- 
tinue to  be,  of  more  general  adaptation  to  the  reno- 
vating of  garments  than  any  other  class  of  dyewares. 
They  are  often  mixtures  of  direct-dyeing  cotton  colors 
with  neutral  wool  colors,  and  again  they  are  of  un- 
mixed composition.  For  the  purposes  of  this  work 
their  composition  is  not  material,  but  for  large 
manufacturing  establishments  it  is  cheaper,  as  a  rule, 
to  buy  all  dyewares  separate  and  make  their  own 
mixtures  to  suit  requirements.  Union  dyes  as  put  up 
being  based  on  the  supposition  that  half  wools  are 
to  be  dyed,  hence  it  is  easy  to  see  that  in  case  of  but 
10  per  cent  of  wool  being  present  in  a  fabric,  a  large 
part  of  the  dye  in  a  union  dye  mixture  would  be  prac- 
tically useless.  The  same  would  hold  true  if  the  per- 
centage of  cotton  were  small  with  another  case,  and 
a  loss  of  the  cotton-dyeing  material  must  result.  Still 
in  practice  to  meet  all  requirements  it  is  about  as 
good  as  can  be  had.  Percentages  of  cotton  usually 
fall  much  below  50  per  cent,  but  cotton  is  much  more 
difficult  to  bring  to  any  given  depth  of  color  than 
wool,  and  it  is  well  to  have  the  preponderance  in  a 
union  dye  mixture  on  the  dyeware  for  cotton.  Full 
directions  are  given  later  for  union  dyeing.  The  sour 
dyes  are  next  in  importance  for  wool  and  silk  ma- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


37 


terials.  As  a  rule  they  stain  cotton  very  little,  if  at  all, 
and  very  pretty  effects  are  produced  from  weaving 
cotton  and  wool  together  and  sour-dyeing  the  wool 
afterward.  The  cotton  is  either  put  in  white,  or  may 
be  colored  any  desired  shade  to  contrast  with  the 
contemplated  wool  color.  This  is  called  cross-dyeing. 
Very  bright  and  beautiful  shades  of  color  are  pro- 
duceable  by  these  dyes,  and  are  very  suitable  for 
ribbons  and  light-weight  garments  for  women  and 
children,  stockings,  etc.  Some  formulae  and  full 
directions  for  working  these  dyes  are  given  under 
Sour  Dyes.  Where  the  material  to  be  dyed  is  entirely 
of  cotton  is  the  next  most  usual  and  important  form 
of  household  renovating  of  garments  and  materials, 
and  is  treated  in  similar  manner,  and  some  formula 
given  as  a  guide.  The  others,  viz.,  the  after-chromed 
and  regular  mordanted  colors,  are  given,  not  in  their 
order  of  importance,  but  in  the  order  of  the  frequency 
with  which  they  are  likely  to  occur  to  the  amateur 
renovator  of  garments.  It  will  be  seen  that  redyeing 
of  woollen  materials  presupposes,  especially  with 
men's  wear,  that  one  or  the  other  of  these  dyes  has 
been  first  used;  and,  therefore,  a  mordant  is  already 
in  the  goods  which  is  permanent,  and  no  matter  how 
many  times  redyed  or  treated  in  cleansing,  is  always 
present  to  receive  more  dye.  The  sour  dyes  can  be 
put  on  top  of  a  mordant,  if  desired ;  they  are  in  most 
instances  less  bright,  but  much  "  faster."  Union  dyes 
as  a  rule  go  on  just  as  well  where  a  garment  was 
originally  " chromed"  in  dyeing,  a  little  less  attention 
to  boiling  sufficient  to  insure  the  wool  getting  fully 


38 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


dyed,  as  directed  under  that  head,  being  necessary. 
Sulphur  colors  and  developed  colors  are  not  treated, 
as  they  are  not  fit  for  the  purposes  of  this  work.  The 
alkali  colors  for  woollens  and  silks  are  good,  and  to  be 
recommended. 

Union  Dyes. 

These  are  so  called  from  their  property  of  dyeing 
animal  and  vegetable  colors  approximately  the  same 
shade  in  the  same  bath.  Goods  that  are  made  up  of 
a  mixture  of  animal  and  vegetable  fibres  are  called 
union  goods.  When  in  doubt  as  to  whether  a  certain 
piece  of  cloth  is  union  goods,  boil  a  very  small  piece 
with  strong  caustic  soda  or  potash  solution ;  the  wool 
dissolves  readily,  leaving  the  cotton  intact.  Where 
the  percentage  of  wool  is  small  the  sample  may  be 
wet  thoroughly  in  a  5°  Baume  solution  of  sulphuric 
acid,  wrung  out  thoroughly,  and  dried  at  about  230° 
Fahr.  The  cotton  is  thereby  destroyed,  leaving  the 
wool.  The  caustic  soda  or  potash  gives  the  quickest 
results,  and  is  to  be  generally  preferred.  To  apply  the 
union  dyes  the  general  mode  is  very  simple,  and  the 
results  satisfactory,  and  they  can  be  obtained  in  all 
colors,  shades,  and  modes.  The  appended  formulae 
presuppose  light-colored  or  white  goods  to  be  dyed. 
The  remarks  previously  made  about  the  effect  on  the 
redyed  shade  of  color  already  in  the  goods  applies 
equally  here.  Also  the  mordant,  if  any,  will  have  its 
effect.  At  any  rate,  have  the  goods  clean  and  remove 
old,  unevenly  faded  colors  where  practicable.  The 
bath  is  made  up  by  dissolving  the  dyestuff  directly 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


39 


in  the  bath  by  boiling  up  for  a  few  minutes,  or  the 
dye  is  boiled  in  a  side-tub  and  then  added  to  the  bath. 
No  additions  of  assistants  need  to  be  made  to  the 
bath  before  entering  the  goods.  They  are  worked 
below  the  boil  J  hour  to  dye  the  vegetable  fibres, 
then  boiled  to  dye  the  woollen  or  animal  fibre,  and 
worked  again  below  the  boil  with  addition  of  com- 
mon salt  or  Glauber  salt,  which  need  not  be  previously 
dissolved,  but  sprinkled  directly  into  the  bath.  These 
directions  should  be  sufficient  to  guide  anyone  in  the 
dyeing  of  a  plain  red,  yellow,  blue,  black,  etc.  A 
light  drab  will  result  from  using 

T\  of  a  per  cent  Black. 

y3^  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 
jVq-  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

Dark  Drab, 
y^j  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
lT2o  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 
T5o8xr  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

A  Light  Sage. 

yVo  °f  a  Per  cerrt  Black. 

yYtf  of  a  per  cent  Yellow  with  a  reddish  tone. 

A  Dark  Sage. 
lT4o  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
ItVo  °f  a  Per  ceirt  Yellow  with  a  reddish  tone. 
Light  Reddish  Brown. 
y3q-  of  a  per  cent  Red,  not  too  light 
x3oir  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 
yu  of  a  per  cent  Black. 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Dark  Red  Brown. 
2\  per  cent  Red. 
2\  per  cent  Orange. 
\  per  cent  Black. 

Light  Brownish  Slate. 
y1^-  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
\  to  TV  of  a  per  cent  Orange, 
o  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

Medium  Dark  Brownish  Slate. 

T\  of  a  per  cent  Black. 

T\  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 
xf  o  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

Light  Bluish  Slate. 

T3o  of  a  per  cent  Black, 
y-jfo-  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 

Dark  Bluish  Slate. 
Iy3^  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
T%  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 

Light  Yellow  Brown, 
yq-  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
TV  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 
-5%  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

Medium  Dark  Yellow  Brown. 

of  a  per  cent  Black. 
2J  per  cent  Orange. 

Light  Buff. 
XV  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
x2o  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 

of  a  per  cent  Yellow, 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


41 


Medium  Dark  Buff. 
T\  of  a  per  cent  Black. 
T8o  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 
TW  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

A  Light  Olive  of  Grayish  Cast. 

y$  of  a  per  cent  Black. 

of  a  per  cent  bright  Yellow. 

to  °f  a  per  cent  bright  Orange. 
Tf -o-  of  a  per  cent  reddish  Blue. 

Dark  Olive. 
T87  of  a  per  cent  Black. 

of  a  per  cent  bright  Yellow. 
T4o  of  a  per  cent  Orange. 

of  a  per  cent  reddish  Blue. 

Light  Green. 
T3o-  of  a  per  cent  Blue. 
Tf  o  of  a  per  cent  Yellow. 

Any  multiple  of  these  formula)  may  be  used,  and 
proportions  varied  ad  infinitum.  The  weight  of  the 
dry  cloth  or  fibre  is  always  taken  as  the  unit  of  weight, 
or  100  per  cent. 

These  wares  are  all  substantive  cotton  dyes,  but 
possess  the  property  to  dye  wool  at  some  temperature 
higher  than  that  required  to  dye  the  cotton.  The 
skill  and  judgment  required  to  successfully  dj^e  union 
goods  consists  largely  in  correctly  regulating  the  heat 
during  the  operation.  Common  table  salt  or  Glauber 
salt  is  used  along  with  the  dye-bath  to  cause  the  dye  to 
be  more  fully  taken  up  by  the  goods,  i.e.,  to  exhaust. 


42 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Black  in  small  per  cents  is  blue,  and  therefore  can 
be  used  in  combinations  where  brilliancy  is  not  the 
aim.  Buy,  therefore,  black:  light  blue,  which,  plus 
black,  is  dark  blue;  orange,  which  is  equivalent  to 
red  and  yellow ;  yellow,  red  in  two  shades — yellowish 
and  bluish — which,  used  in  conjunction,  gives  any 
shade  of  red,  maroon,  wine,  etc. 

Where  particular  fastness  is  required  the  union 
goods  may  be  dyed  twice.  The  wool  or  animal  fibre 
contained  may  be  first  dyed  either  by  the  mordanted 
method,  the  over-chromed  method,  or  acid  and 
Glauber  salt  method.  The  shade  is  brought  out 
rather  thin,  as  it  will  usually  and  unavoidably  fill 
up  to  some  extent  while  dyeing  the  vegetable  matters. 
Where  the  vegetable  matter  is  but  a  very  small  por- 
tion of  the  material  u  speck  dyeing"  is  resorted  to. 
The  old  and  still  much  used  speck  dye  is  made  from 
extract  of  logwood,  soda  ash,  and  blue  vitriol. 


The  logwood  and  soda  ash  are  boiled  together  in  \ 
bbl.  of  water  for  some  time.  The  blue  vitriol  may  be 
added  dry  or  in  solution;  in  either  case  the  boiling 
is  to  be  maintained,  and  the  blue  vitriol  is  cautiously 
added,  the  boiling  being  continued  until  frothing 
ceases.  The  speck  dye,  when  cold,  is  ready  for  use. 
Sufficient  quantity  of  it  is  added  to  cold  water, 
sufficient  in  which  to  work  the  goods,  keeping  the 
bath  as  small  as  consistent  with  even  and  thorough 


44  lbs.  extract  of  logwood 
16  lbs.  soda  ash 
8  lbs.  blue  vitriol 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


43 


working  of  the  goods.  In  no  case  can  this  speck  dye 
be  used  hot  until  after  the  speck  flyeing  is  done; 
then  if  it  is  necessary  to  darken  the  main  body  of 
the  goods,  the  heat  may  be  cautiously  raised.  Avoid 
dashing  the  speck  dye  upon  the  cloth  in  getting  ready 
the  bath;  best  prepare  the  bath  where  practicable, 
and  enter  the  goods  later.  Old  black  woollen  goods 
boiled  up  with  this  speck  dye  are  freshened  and  im- 
proved. The  dealers  in  dyewares  sell  a  speck  dye — 
cold  black,  etc. — that  is  also  very  good  and  used 
in  practically  the  same  way.  It  is  always  well  to  try 
a  small  portion  of  the  goods  in  a  small  way,  that 
accidents  and  disappointments  be  avoided. 

The  Alkali  Colors. 

So  called  because  they  give  their  color  base  to 
woollen  materials  in  a  bath  containing  an  alkali, 
usually  sal-soda,  equal  to  about  2  to  3  per  cent  of  the 
goods  being  dyed.  The  dyestuff  and  sal-soda  are 
dissolved  in  the  bath  and  the  goods  boiled  therein. 
A  separate  small  clipping  of  the  material  is  often 
attached  to  the  goods  in  such  manner  that  it  can  be 
readily  removed  from  time  to  time  and  dipped  in  a 
bowl  of  acidulated  water,  which  develops  the  color. 
When  it  is  decided  that  enough  color  has  been  ab- 
sorbed by  the  main  bulk  of  the  goods,  the  whole  is 
acidulated  same  as  the  sample,  either  in  a  fresh  bath 
or  the  same  bath.  In  a  fresh  bath  the  color  comes 
out  somewhat  lighter  and  there  is  less  danger  of  un- 
even results. 

Nicholson  blue  in  various  brands  is  the  best  known 


44 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


of  the  series,  and  gives  a  very  bright,  serviceable  color. 

Alkali  violet  may  be  used  in  conjunction  with  Nichol- 
son blue,  or  alone;  either  is  applied  as  above  indicated. 

The  color  base  from  these  dyeings  can  never  be 
wholly  removed  by  boiling  with  ammonia  or  other 
alkaline  solutions.  Greasy  and  sweaty  garments  may 
be  dyed  pretty  successfully,  without  previously 
cleaning,  with  these  dyes,  especially  if  a  dark,  full 
color  is  required,  and  care  is  taken  to  boil  and  work 
the  goods  in  the  bath  before  the  addition  of  the  dye- 
ware.  Then  lift  out  the  goods  and  stock  the  bath 
as  before  stated.  These  dyes  are  useful  in  small 
quantities  for  shading  purposes,  with  union  dyes, 
provided  there  is  used  some  acetic  acid  in  the  rinsing 
bath,  but  this  is  of  more  interest  to  the  professional 
dyer  than  to  those  for  whom  this  is  intended. 

There  is  little,  if  any,  color  or  stain  apparent  before 
acidulating  these  colors.  They  are  one  instance  of 
the  developed  colors,  but  are  entirely  distinct  and 
apart  from  the  diazotized  and  developed  colors  for 
cotton,  which  give  a  fugitive  color  before  diazotizing 
with  sodium  nitrite  and  developing  with  betanaphthol, 
etc.,  sold  under  the  name  of  Developer  A,  F,  and  C.  Sul- 
phur dyes  are  simpler  of  application  and  quite  as  solid. 

The  following  are  reputable  dealers  in  dyewares : 

A.  Klipstein  &  Co.,  122  Pearl  St.,  New  York  City. 


BRANCHES  AT 


Boston,  Mass. 
Providence,  R.  I. 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Chicago,  111. 
Hamilton,  Canada. 
Montreal,  Canada. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


45 


H.  A.  Metz  &  Co.,  122  Hudson  St.,  New  York  City. 

BRANCHES  AT 


Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.,  117  Hudson  St., 
New  York  City. 

BRANCHES  AT 

Boston,  Mass.,  32  India  St.    Philadelphia,  Pa.,  9-11 
Providence,  R.  L,  27  Pine  St.   Water  St. 
Charlotte,  N.  C,  509-513      Chicago,  111.,  133  East 
Trust  Bldg.  Kinzie  St. 

Toronto,  Canada,  14  Front  St. 

Badische  Co.,  128  Duane  St.,  New  York  City. 

BRANCHES  AT 

Boston,  Mass.,  86  Federal     Providence,  R.  L,  80  So. 

St.  Water  St. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  238  Arch  Montreal,  Canada,  6  Le- 

St.  moine  St. 

Chicago,  111.,  228  Randolph  St. 

Katie  &  Co.,  530-536  Canal  St.,  New  York  City. 


San  Francisco,  Cal, 
Toronto,  Canada. 


Providence,  R.  I. 
Atlanta,  Ga. 


Boston,  Mass. 


Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Charlotte,  N.  C. 
Chicago,  111. 
Montreal,  Canada. 
Hamburg,  Germany. 


BRANCHES  AT 


Boston,  Mass. 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Providence,  R.  I. 
Greensboro,  N.  C. 


46 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Sour  Dyes. 

These  are  very  simple  in  application.  Each  dealer 
mentioned  in  this  work  can  furnish  these  dyes  here 
mentioned,  or  one  equal  in  every  respect.  The  bath 
is  made  up  with  the  requisite  amount  of  dyeware, 
usually  boiled  up  in  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  together 
with  10  to  20  per  cent  of  Glauber  salt.  The  kettle 
is  then  filled  up  with  cold  water,  thus  bringing  its 
temperature  down  to  130°  to  170°  Fahr.  The  acid, 
properly  diluted,  is  added,  the  whole  stirred  up,  and 
the  goods  are  then  entered,  and  after  working  15 
minutes  the  liquor  is  again  brought  to  the  boil,  work- 
ing all  the  time;  \  to  f  hour  boiling  is  usually  suffi- 
cient. They  are  bright,  and  resist  action  of  wear, 
washing  and  sunlight  sufficiently  well  for  the  purpose 
of  ladies'  dress  goods,  ribbons,  stockings,  carpet-rags, 
knitting-yarn,  etc.,  and  may  be  had  in  all  colors  and 
shades,  and  are  for  woollen,  worsted,  or  silk  goods  only. 
The  formulae  here  given  are  each  for  100  lbs.  of  woollen 
material;  silk  or  silk-mixed  goods  can  be  dyed,  of 
course.  Silk  takes  more  concentrated  baths  and 
larger  percentage  of  dyeware  than  wool  as  a  rule. 

Canary  Yellow. 

No.  1:  1  to  3  per  cent  of  chinoline  yellow  O.  The 
letter  O  brand  gives  a  very  clear  canary  yellow.  The 
letter  S  brand  gives  more  of  an  orange  cast  of  canary. 
(H.  A.  Metz  &  Co.) 

No.  2:  1  to  3  per  cent  of  fast  light  yellow  2  G. 
(Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.). 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


47 


Full  Yellow. 

f  to  2  per  cent  Indian  yellow,  tartrazine,  naphthol 
yellow  S  (Farbenfabriken  Elberfeld).  These  wares 
dye  both  silk  and  wool. 

Magenta. 

Also  called  rosein,  fuchsine,  aniline  red.  This 
color  is  soluble  in  alcohol  and  to  some  extent  in  water, 
so  that  a  dye  bath  may  be  prepared  directly  from  the 
crystals.  It  will  "tar"  if  the  water  is  too  hot.  When 
making  the  solution  it  is  well  to  filter  the  solution  or 
pour  through  cloth  or  strainer;  §  oz.  of  the  crystals 
should  give  a  fair  shade  to  10  lbs.  of  wool.  The  bath 
is  neutral  usually.  A  little  soap  in  the  bath  brightens 
the  shade  at  the  expense  somewhat  of  its  fastness. 
Magenta  is  applied  to  silk  and  wool  by  entering  the 
goods  in  the  bath  at  170°-180°  Fahr.,  and  handled 
rapidly  to  prevent  uneven  drying;  J  hour  will  com- 
plete the  dyeing. 

Cotton  is  first  prepared  by  steeping  over  night  in 
a  10-per-cent  solution  of  sumac,  or  5  per  cent  tannic 
acid  for  some  time  or  over  night.  Wring  out  and  dye 
in  same  manner  as  wool  or  silk. 

A  brighter  shade  on  cotton  as  follows:  For  10  lbs. 
cotton,  1  oz.  soap  and  5  oz.  olive  oil  are  made  into  an 
emulsion  in  hot  water  and  cooled  to  90°  Fahr.  The 
cotton  is  worked  in  this  for  10  minutes.  In  another 
bath  %  lb.  sumac  and  2  ozs.  tin  crystals  are  prepared 
and  the  cotton  worked  in  this  for  some  time,  wrung 
out,  and  dyed  in  a  hot  bath  of  magenta  and  pure 
water. 


48 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Magenta  Liquor. 

Dissolve  1  lb.  magenta  crystals  in  2%  gallons  alcohol 
.8200  specific  gravity;  a  5-gallon  tin  is  convenient. 
Add  2\  gall,  hot  water,  strain  if  necessary.  In  water 
at  180°  Fahr.,  say  1  gall.,  a  tablespoonful  of  magenta 
liquor  will  dye  a  pair  of  stockings  or  a  broad  and  long 
ribbon  very  nicely.  Magenta  liquor  from  which  the 
alcohol  has  been  expelled  by  a  gentle  heat  and  a  little 
gum  arabic  water  added  is  good  magenta  ink.  Acid 
magenta  is  a  different  product.  Acid  magenta  is 
freely  soluble  in  water  and  dyes  in  an  acid  bath. 

Orange. 

f  to  3  per  cent  orange  R,  orange  G,  or  orange  R  R 
or  brilliant  orange  R,  brilliant  orange  0  (all  of  Metz) ; 
croceine  orange  R,  mandarine  G,  orange  R  0,  orange 
B  B  (Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.). 

Scarlet. 

f  to  3  per  cent  scarlet  R,  R  R,  3  R,  4  R-6  R  (H.  A. 
Metz  &  Co.).  These  are  bluish  scarlets.  Scarlet  R, 
from  Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.,  is  a  yellowish 
scarlet. 

Red. 

1  to  3  per  cent  of  fast  red  B  or  G  (Badische  Co.), 
fast  red  E-A,  the  ponceaus  R  to  4  R,  new  red  R  to  5 
R,  acid  magenta  B  (Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.). 

Rose  or  Pink. 

|  to  1  per  cent  of  rhodamine  B  or  G,  eosine,  fuch- 
sine. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


49 


Rose  Running  Toward  Violet. 

|  to  1  per  cent  acid  magenta  G,  phloxine  B,  rose 
bengal. 

Violet. 

|  to  2  per  cent  acid  violet  7  B  N,  N,  5  B  F  are  bluish 
violets.  Acid  violet  3  R  A,  4  R  S,  and  violet  R  con- 
centrated, are  red  violets. 

Blue. 

£  to  3  per  cent  of  any  of  the  patent  blues  give  a 
greenish  blue  in  A  brands,  shading  toward  reddish 
blues  in  letters  further  down  the  alphabet. 

Full  Blues  (Sour  Dyes). 

No.  1 :  3  per  cent  acid  violet  6  B  N-10  B  or  any 
acid  violet,  1  per  cent  acid  black,  yV  per  cent  acid 
yellow. 

No.  2:  4  per  cent  of  either  of  these,  separately,  or 
in  conjunction :  patent  marine  blue  L  E,  greenish,  azo 
acid  blue  B,  patented,  reddish,  victoria  violet  4  B  S 
8  B  S,  patented  (all  of  Metz) ;  Alizarine  blue  B  R  3  G, 
azo  acid  blue  6  B,  cashmere  blue  T  G  extra  ,  victoria 
navy  blue  B  or  D  K  (all  of  Farbenfabriken  of  Elber- 
feld  Co.) 

Black. 

6  per  cent  of  either  of  these,  separately,  or  in  con- 
junction; acid  black  No.  3  (Klipstein),  acid  black 
8  B,  4  B  L,  F  L,  cashmere  black  B,  3  B  N,  T  N, 
naphthaline  acid  black  4  B,  naphthalymine  black  4  B, 
4 


50 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


4  B  K,  6  B  S  (Farbenfabriken  of  ElberfeJd  Co.),  acid 
alizarine  blacks  from  any  source. 

Wool  black  4  B,  6  B,  4  B  F,  and  B,  wool  black 
4BL,4BFL;NB,N2B,N4B,N5B,NG,  wool 
black  W,  4  B  W,  B  S  W,  R  S  W,  acid  black  B. 
chromate  black  T,  T  B,  6  B,  4  B  (Berlin  Anilin 
Works). 

The  dealers  have  various  shades  of  the  same  color, 
which  they  designate  by  letters,  or  numbers,  and 
sometimes  both,  thus  acid  violet  would  mean  a  violet 
that  dyed  in  an  acid  bath;  the  6  B  N,  10  B,  etc., 
would  indicate  a  certain  grade  and  shade.  Order 
always  by  the  full  designation. 

Direct  Cotton  Dyes. 

The  substantive  cotton  dyes,  or  direct-dyeing  colors, 
are  meant.  The  adjective  cotton  dyes,  or  those  re- 
quiring tannin  to  be  applied  and  fixed  with  antimony 
salt  or  some  assistant  added  to  the  bath,  need  not  be 
considered.  Sulphur  colors  are  so  called  because  they 
are  not  soluble  in  water,  but  require  caustic  soda  and 
bisulphide  of  soda  added  to  the  bath,  and  lastly  com- 
mon salt  in  large  percentage  to  cause  proper  exhaus- 
tion of  the  bath.  These  are  the  most  solid  of  all 
cotton  colors,  with  the  possible  exception  of  indigo, 
and  aniline  black  of  the  diazotized  and  developed 
colors,  which,  together  with  the  sulphur  colors,  are 
not  applicable  to  renovating  work.  The  sulphur 
colors  are,  unfortunately,  injuriously  affected  by 
metals,  and  therefore  mostly  restricted  to  where 
wood  dye  vessels  can  be  had.  They  also  tend  to  spot 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


51 


if  exposed  to  the  air  unevenly  during  the  dyeing 
operation. 

For  household  purposes  the  substantive  dyes  are 
quite  sufficient.  They  are  extremely  simple  of  ap- 
plication and  quite  fast  enough  for  ordinary  purposes. 
They  may  be  obtained  of  all  dealers  in  almost  endless 
variety  of  red,  blue,  yellow,  black,  brown,  etc.  They 
almost  without  exception  will  work  together  to  pro- 
duce any  shade  required.  The  bath  usually  does  not 
exhaust,  and  where  successive  dyeings  are  to  be  made 
of  the  same  color,  a  saving  is  made  by  keeping  a 
"  standing  bath."  Alkalies  (soda  ash,  sal-soda)  are 
often  used,  especially  on  raw  cotton,  to  soften  and 
remove  the  resinous  matter  from  the  fibre.  Cotton 
in  its  natural  state  has  about  2  per  cent  of  resinous 
matter.  The  alkali  is  added  along  with  the  dyeware 
to  the  bath.  Common  salt  is  usually  added  to  the 
bath,  and  sometimes,  improperly,  along  with  the  dye- 
stuff  ;  the  writer  prefers  to  sprinkle  on  the  salt  after 
"boiling  under"  the  cotton,  and  after  boiling  a  time 
to  insure  the  cotton  being  thoroughly  wetted,  and  air 
bubbles  expelled.  After-treatment  with  copperas, 
bluestone,  bichromate  of  potash,  etc.,  usually  changes 
the  shade  somewhat,  but,  where  fastness  is  especially 
desired,  may  be  profitably  practised.  Some  acetic 
acid  is  usually  added  along  with  the  saddening. 

The  following  formula?  are  given  as  a  guide  to  a 
variety  of  useful  shades  of  color.  Where  a  plain  red, 
yellow,  blue,  or  black  is  wanted,  the  reader  should  be 
able  to  procure  a  suitable  color  from  the  dealer. 
All  dealers,  too,  sell  brown,  green,  olives,  purples,  etc. 


52 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


If  a  standing  bath  is  maintained,  or  the  shade  is 
beyond  medium  full,  it  is  necessary  to  remove  the 
cotton  to  a  fresh  bath,  for  any  after-treatment  with 
copperas,  bluestone,  etc.  All  light  shades  may  be 
after-treated  in  the  first  bath,  and  it  is  usual  to  add 
along  with  the  saddening  2  to  3  per  cent  of  acetic  acid. 
In  large  works,  pumps  are  used  to  remove  liquors 
from  the  cotton,  and  often  some  rinse  water  is  ap- 
plied, and  run  off,  before  proceeding  to  sadden  with 
copperas,  etc. 

Light  Brownish  Drab. 

\  per  cent  direct  brown  powder. 
TV  per  cent  direct  yellow  powder. 
Y1^  per  cent  direct  blue  powder. 

Dark  Brown  Drab. 

3  per  cent  direct  brown  powder. 
t6q-  per  cent  direct  yellow  powder. 
t6q-  per  cent  black  powder. 

Light  Slate  Blue  Shade. 

1  per  cent  direct  black  powder. 

Dark  Blue  Slate. 

3  per  cent  direct  black  powder. 
A  full  black  requires  about  10  per  cent  of  black. 

Slate  with  Drabby  Character. 

2  per  cent  direct  black. 
yo  per  cent  direct  yellow. 
T2Q-  per  cent  direct  brown. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


53 


Red. 

3  per  cent  of  benzo-purpurine  4  B. 

There  are  many  other  letter  brands  of  this  very 
useful  dye;  with  proper  manipulation  it  dyes  wool 
almost  equally  as  well.  It  is  turned  blue  by  strong 
acids,  but  acetic  acid,  unless  very  strong,  does  not 
affect  it.  Acetic  acid  is  therefore  frequently  used  to 
assist  toward  the  end  of  the  operation  where  wool  is 
being  dyed  with  benzo-purpurine  4  B,  in  exhausting 
the  bath  and  deepening  the  shade;  at  the  same  time 
avoiding  to  have  the  temperature  of  the  bath  quite  to 
boiling  heat. 

Blue. 

3  per  cent  of  benzo-azurine  G. 

This  color  comes  in  other  letter  brands.  It  dyes 
wool  fairly  well  with  proper  care.  In  conjunction 
with  benzo-purpurine  4  B,  you  may  get  any  shade  of 
bluish  red  to  reddish  blue.  Shaded  with  black,  this 
will  make  dark  blue. 

Yellow. 
3  per  cent  chrysophenine  G. 

This  color  is  bright  and  pleasing,  and  may  be  shaded 
to  orange  with  benzo-purpurine.  In  conjunction  with 
benzo-azurine  G  good  greens  are  obtained.  By  proper 
combinations  of  these  three  colors,  red,  blue,  and 
yellow,  any  imaginable  shade  of  color  may  be  produced: 
scarlet,  pink,  browns,  drabs,  olives,  sages,  maroons,  etc. 

Chrysophenine  dyes  well  on  wool,  both  sour  and 
mordanted. 


54 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Afterchromed  Colors. 

These  differ  from  the  mordant  colors  by  the  pro- 
perty they  have  of  being  absorbed  by  the  woollen 
material  from  a  boiling  bath  containing,  besides  the 
dyeware,  an  acid.  Acid  alizarines,  top-chromes,  one- 
dip  colors  are  other  names  applied  to  them.  They 
dye  well  on  a  chrome  mordant.  These  colors  do  not, 
however,  give  their  true  shade  by  boiling  with  the 
stock  in  an  acid  bath.  They  must  afterward  have 
some  bichromate  of  potash  applied  to  the  shade 
produced  by  boiling  in  an  acid  bath.  This  may  be 
done  in  the  same  bath  or  in  a  fresh  one.  Fluoride  of 
chrome  is  also  used,  same  as  bichromate  of  potash, 
to  develop  and  fasten  these  colors.  The  advantage 
of  using  fluoride  of  chrome  is  of  principal  value  only 
in  delicate  blue,  and  such  as  might  be  too  much 
changed  by  using  the  bichromate.  Additions;  to  the 
same  bath  may  be  made,  after  the  color  is  developed 
by  bichromate  of  potash  or  fluoride  of  chrome,  and 
in  the  formulas  given,  suitable  shading  materials  are 
indicated.   Each  formula  is  for  100  lbs. 

Medium  Slate. 

1  oz.  mordant  yellow  0  (Metz) 
12  ozs.  acid  alizarine  black  R  (Metz) 
4  ozs.  acid  alizarine  brown  B  B  (Metz) 
1  oz.  acid  alizarine  red  B  (Metz)  or  G  (Metz) 
20  lbs.  Glauber  sah. 
Boil  \  hour,  then  add  5  lbs.  commercial  acetic  acid. 
Boil  \  hour,  then  add  4  lbs.  sulphuric  acid.    Boil  \ 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


55 


hour,  then  add  2  lbs.  bichromate  of  potash.  Boil  J 
hour.  Done. 

A  Blue  Slate. 
From  I  to      per  cent  dyeings  of  any  of  the  acid 
alizarine  blacks  give  good  slates  of  a  bluish  character. 
Dye  as  directed  for  medium  slate. 

Medium  Light  Tan. 
T4o  lb.  acid  anthracine  brown  R  (Farben) 
T3o  lb.  alizarine  black  B  (Farben) 
-^o  lb.  chrome  yellow  D  F  (Farben) 
20  lbs.  Glauber  salt 

5  lbs.  acetic  acid 
T6o  lb.  bichromate  of  potash 

Dark  Olive  Brown. 
2  lbs.  acid  anthracine  brown  R  (Farben) 
lyo  lbs.  alizarine  black  B  (Farben) 

lbs.  chrome  yellow  D  F  (Farben) 
20  lbs.  Glauber  salt 
5  lbs.  acetic  acid 

4  lbs.  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid) 

2  lbs.  bichromate  of  potash 

Light  Blue. 
y3^  lb.  alizarine  blue  SKY 
Shade  with  acid  violet  4  B  extra  if  a  more  red  cast 
of  blue  is  desired. 

r§  o  to  TV  per  cent  acid  violet  4  B  extra 
4  lbs.  acetic  acid 
10  lbs.  Glauber  salt 

3  lbs.  oil  of  vitriol 

yV^  lb.  bichromate  of  potash 


56 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Dark  Bottle  Green. 

3  lbs.  acid  alizarine  green  C  E  (Farben) 
1|  lbs.  alizarine  black  B  (Farben) 

1  lb.  diamond  flavine  G  (Farben) 
20  lbs.  Glauber  salt 

5  lbs.  acetic  acid 
5  lbs.  oil  of  vitriol 

2  lbs.  bichromate  of  potash 

Yellow  Buff. 

T2o"  lb.  acid  anthracine  brown  R  (Farben) 
to  lb.  diamond  flavine  G  (Farben) 
Tf  o-  lbs.  alizarine  black  B  (Farben) 

4  lbs.  acetic  acid 
10  lbs.  Glauber  salt 

4  lbs.  sulphuric  acid 

\  lb.  bichromate  of  potash 
Shade  with  either  brown  or  black;  if  yellow  is  needed, 
use  yellow  D  F. 

Dark  Red  Brown. 

lbs.  acid  anthracine  brown  R  H  extra  (Farben). 
Shade  to  a  wine  with  alizarine  red  W  (Farben)  if 
desired. 

5  lbs.  acetic  acid 
20  lbs.  Glauber  salt 

5  lbs.  oil  of  vitriol 

2  lbs.  bichromate  of  potash 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


57 


Dark  Blue. 

3  lbs.  alizarine  blue  B  A  3  R  (Farben) 

lbs.  brilliant  alizarine  blue  G  (Farben) 
5  lbs.  acetic  acid 
20  lbs.  Glauber  salt 
5  lbs.  oil  of  vitriol 
5  lbs.  fluoride  of  chrome,  or 
2  lbs.  bichromate  of  potash 


Scarlet  and  Red. 

3  per  cent  salicine  brown  S  (Kalle  &  Co.) 

5  per  cent  acetic  acid 
Boil  \  hr.   Exhaust  with  1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid. 
This  gives  a  good  scarlet  before  adding  If  per  cent 
bichromate  of  potash,  when  you  have  a  dark  red. 

Bright  Scarlet  and  Red. 

3  per  cent  salicine  red  G  (Kalle  &  Co.) 

5  per  cent  acetic  acid. 
Exhaust  with  1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid,  which  gives 
a  bright  scarlet.    Afterchrome  with  If  per  cent  bi- 
chromate of  potash,  which  gives  a  full  red. 


Dark  Wine  and  Blue. 

4  per  cent  salicine  blue  2  R  (Kalle  &  Co.) 
6  per  cent  acetic  acid 
Exhaust  with  1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid,  which  gives 
a  dark  wine.  Afterchrome  with  \\  per  cent  bichromate 
of  potash,  which  gives  a  dark  blue. 


58 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Monochrome  Colors. 

This  is  a  new  group  of  colors  which  are  dyed  by  a 
new  process  which  seems  to  offer  many  advantages. 
As  the  name  indicates,  these  require  the  presence  of 
chromium  in  the  dye  bath  to  properly  develop  the 
color,  but  it  is  used  in  the  rather  unusual  form  of 
ammonium  chromate.  As  the  use  of  a  weak  acid  is 
also  necessary,  the  manner  of  supplying  the  proper 
chromium  salt  can  be  supplied  by  the  use  of  sodium 
or  potassium  bichromate  in  conjunction  with  acetate 
of  ammonia.  In  practice  the  method  followed  is  to 
prepare  the  bath  with  the  necessary  dyestuff,  then 
add  5  to  7  per  cent  ammonium  acetate  and  an  amount 
of  bichromate  equal  to  |  the  weight  of  the  dyestuff. 
These  are  wool  and  animal  fibre  colors  only.  The 
fibres  absorb  'the  dyestuff  slowly  and  the  shades 
develop  continuously,  so  that  the  dyeings  are  level 
and  the  dyer  has  no  difficulty  in  matching  shades, 
as  an  extended  after-treatment  is  not  necessary,  and 
the  final  result  is  obtained  when  the  dyeings  have 
had  the  proper  time  in  the  dye-bath.  The  shades 
obtained  by  the  use  of  these  colors  are  fast  to  light, 
stand  fulling,  scouring,  and  other  processes  of  finishing 
perfectly,  and  will  not  bleed  into  interwoven  white 
effects.  They  can  be  recommended  for  all  sorts  of 
fast-color  dyeing  where  the  shades  are  not  too  heavy. 
They  appear  to  fill  a  long-felt  want  in  the  production 
of  modes,  tans,  and  drabs  for  perfectly  fast  and  level 
dyeings  on  yarn,  raw  stock,  and  pieces.  The  line  at 
present  comprises 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


59 


Monochrome  G 

Monochrome  grays  G  and  B 

Monochrome  blue  G 

Monochrome  yellow  G  and  R 

Monochrome  orange  R 

Monochrome  green  A  G 

Monochrome  brown  A  B 
and  if  necessary  fast  fulling  colors  may  be  used  for 
shading,  such  as: 

Fast  violet  R 
Fulling  violet  N  O 
Fulling  red  B  and  C 


Formula  for  Three  Shades  of  Slate  on 
100  Lbs. 

lbs.  monochrome  yellow  G 
5  ozs.  monochrome  blue  G 
1\  ozs.  monochrome  red  G 
7  ozs.  acetate  of  ammonia 
1  lb.  bichromate  of  potash 
10  lbs.  Glauber  salt 
5  lbs.  acetic  acid 
Boil  \  hour  and  add  1  lb.  oil  of  vitriol  and  boil 
\  hour. 

13  ozs.  fast  acid  blue  S  C  extra 

14  ozs.  flavazine  S 

7  ozs.  amido-naphthol  red  6  B 
Same  acids,  bichromate,  etc.,  Glauber  salt,  and 
time  as  before.    Wares  from  H.  A.  Metz. 


60 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


14|  ozs.  fast  acid  blue  S  C  extra 
12  oz.  flavazine  S 
5|  ozs.  amido-naphthol  red  6  B 

Or— 

llf  ozs.  fast  acid  blue  S  C  extra 
12  ozs.  flavazine  S 
6  ozs.  amido-naphthol  red  6  B 
Same  acids,   bichromate,   acetate  of  ammonia, 
Glauber  salts.   Time  as  before. 

Metachrome  Colors  and  Mordant. 

These  are  much  older  than  the  monochromes.  At 
first  they  were  for  the  most  part  sent  out  as  pastes, 
sticky,  nasty  compounds  to  handle,  and  besides,  if 
frozen,  were  much  injured  or  rendered  worthless. 
Latterly,  however,  these  very  useful  colors  for  woollen 
material  are  to  be  had  as  powders,  cleanly  to  handle, 
easily  soluble  and  easily  levelling,  not  injured  by 
freezing,  and  lacking  nothing  in  their  original  fast- 
ness. Metachrome  mordant  is  reputed  to  be  a  mix- 
ture of  ammonium  sulphate  with  bichromate  of 
potash.  Whether  this  is  strictly  the  case  or  not,  the 
writer  finds  that  equal  parts  of  the  sulphate  and  bi- 
chromate give  in  practice  results  tending  to  confirm 
the  report,  and  at  a  less  price.  Equal  parts  of  meta- 
chrome colors  and  metachrome  mordant  are  added 
directly  to  the  bath,  either  both  together  or  sep- 
arately, or  following  each  other  at  intervals,  an  excess 
of  the  mordant  apparently  not  injuring  or  hastening 
results  if  within  reasonable  limits.  The  color  grad- 
ually develops  and  darkens  during  a  boiling  of  1  to  2 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


61 


hours,  and  may  be  shaded  by  additions  directly  to 
the  bath  of  appropriate  metachrome  colors  dissolved 
in  water  and  thinned  out  considerably  before  adding. 
These  colors  stand  light,  washing,  etc.,  very  well, 
and  are  fairly  fast  to  acids,  as  in  carbonizing.  Meta- 
chromes  are  the  product  of  the  Berlin  Anilin  Works, 
with  offices  in  New  York,  Chicago,  etc. 

In  the  writer's  opinion  Cassella's  monochromes, 
likewise  those  of  Metz  and  others,  are  patterned  some- 
what after  the  metachromes.  It  can  be  truly  said  of 
them  collectively  that  they  are  good  colors  and 
worthy  the  attention  of  all  dyers  of  woollen  material. 

Alizarine  Ghromate  Colors. 

Of  very  recent  introduction  in  the  art  of  dyeing 
are  a  line  of  colors  that  differ  from  the  overchromed 
or  acid  alizarines  in  this:  that  the  bichromate  of 
potash  may  be  added  at  the  commencement,  i.e., 
dye  and  mordant  are  introduced  to  the  dye  bath  at 
once,  and  heated  to  boiling  and  boiled  as  usual; 
finally  some  acetic  acid  is  added  to  exhaust  the  bath. 
In  the  writer's  experience  this  has  been  often  done 
with  colors  not  made  with  this  intention.  That  it 
was  possible  to  do  so  was  noted  fully  fifteen  years  ago. 
The  advantage  over  the  regular  overchromed  process 
in  saving  of  time  is  not  worthy  of  mention;  where 
great  care  in  matching  is  requisite  there  is  an  advan- 
tage, as  the  exhaustion  of  the  bath  is  under  much 
better  control  and  can  be  pushed  just  as  far  as  needed, 
and  no  further,  at  the  discretion  of  the  dyer.  With 
the  overchromed  color  care  has  to  be  particularly 


62 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


taken  that  an  excess  of  dye  ware  is  never  first  added, 
because  the  shade  is  not  produced  until  after  the 
bichromate  is  added,  and  if  then  it  comes  up  too  dark, 
there  is  no  recourse.  The  new  alizarine  chromate 
colors  offer,  therefore,  for  piece  dyers  a  much  safer 
and  exact  mode  of  procedure  for  yarns  and  pieces, 
while  at  the  same  time  the  color  is  truly  a  mordant 
color  and  fast  to  washing  and  exposure,  suited  to 
men's  wear.  It  is  possible  also  to  make  a  package  dye, 
containing  the  necessary  dyeware  and  bichromate 
that,  if  kept  dry,  may  be  mailed  or  kept  ready  for  use, 
and  should  be  very  convenient  and  useful.  Acetic 
acid  is  to  be  everywhere  had  in  the  form  of  vinegar 
and  is  all  that  is  needed  to  exhaust  the  bath.  The 
ultimate  details  of  their  use  are  not  yet  worked  out, 
but  are  of  great  importance.  A  typical  formula  would 
be  5  per  cent  of  dyeware,  20  per  cent  Glauber  salt, 
2\  per  cent  bichromate  of  soda,  or  3  per  cent  bichro- 
mate potash.  Enter  goods  at  100°  and  raise  gradually 
to  the  boil.  Continue  for  1  hour  and  exhaust,  if 
necessary,  with  5  per  cent  acetic,  lactic,  or  malic 
acid.  Acetate,  lactate  and  malate  of  ammonia  may 
be  used  where  great  care  must  be  taken  in  coming 
to  shade. 

Saddened  Colors. 

Under  this  designation  may  be  placed  all  the  dye 
woods  and  many  vegetable  substances  used  in  dyeing. 
A  formula  for  using  them,  favorite  with  some  dyers 
still  living  and  practising  their  profession,  would  read 
about  as  follows: 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


63 


Drab,  for  100  lbs.  Wool. 

1  lb.  ground  logwood  =  blue 
J  lb.  ground  fustic  =  yellow 

3  lbs.  madder  =  red  and  yellow 

2  lbs.  barwood  or  camwood  =  red 
Boil  1  hour  and  sadden  by  sprinkling  in 


Simmer  J  hour;  draw  off,  and  lay  over  night. 

The  way  this  formula  would  be  applied  by  these  dyers 
would  vary  in  some  slight  degree,  but  may  be  set 
down  about  as  follows: 

The  wool  is  first  scoured.  The  loss  (shrinkage)  in 
scouring  is  known  pretty  accurately,  by  trial  or  from 
experienced  careful  inspection;  thus  they  are  enabled 
to  weigh  off  before  scouring  a  quantity  of  fleece  giving 
very  approximately  100  lbs.  The  scoured  wool,  while 
still  wet,  is  brought  alongside  the  dye-kettle,  together 
with  the  four  first-mentioned  materials  in  the  formula, 
weighed  and  mixed  in  a  box,  with  a  small  scoop  left 
therein.  The  kettle  is  prepared  nearly  full  of  water 
near  the  boiling-point.  The  dyer's  assistants  now 
scatter  the  wool  evenly  over  the  top  of  the  kettle, 
while  the  dyer  with  the  small  scoop  or  his  hand  sifts 
the  ground  wood  and  madder  evenly  through  the  wool. 
Help  with  forks  thrust  the  wool  down  into  the  hot 
water,  and  as  soon  as  all  the  wTool  and  material  is  in 
begin  at  once  to  pole  up  the  contents  of  the  kettle. 
The  pole  is  frequently  simply  a  sapling  deprived  of  its 
bark  and  trimmed  free  of  knots,  or  made  by  turning  in 


64 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


a  lathe.  The  essential  thing  with  the  pole  is  that  it 
be  smooth,  and  straight  not  only  in  direction,  but  in 
grain.  The  pole  is  thrust  down  at  the  side  of  the 
kettle,  the  lower  end  pushed  along  the  bottom  to 
something  past  the  centre  of  the  kettle,  then  the  top 
end  is  brought  over  and  outward,  the  man  throws 
the  weight  of  his  body  upon  the  pole,  bringing  up  a 
large  bunch  of  wool  upon  the  inner  end  of  the  pole. 
By  dexterous  twists  and  turns  he  breaks  and  scatters 
the  wool  about  over  the  surface  of  the  kettle,  avoiding 
to  roll  the  pole  at  any  time  so  far  as  to  have  the  wool 
fall  off  in  a  large  wad  or  long  strings.  Care  is  taken 
when  first  commencing  to  pole  to  break  the  wool 
thoroughly,  as  the  thorough  leveling  of  the  ultimate 
results  depends  largely  thereon.  About  fifteen 
minutes'  poling  while  the  kettle  is  being  brought  to 
the  boil  is  the  usual  rule.  Forks  are  then  used  to 
fetch  the  wool  from  the  centre  of  the  kettle  so  that 
the  boil  may  be  a  comparatively  open  spot  in  the 
centre  of  the  kettle.  The  wool  toward  the  outer  edge 
of  the  kettle  is  at  the  same  time  kept  thrust  under, 
so  that  when  a  "fair  boil"  is  reached,  all  the  stock 
stays  submerged.  The  contents  are  now  kept  boiling 
quietly  for  an  hour  or  more.  The  dyer  and  help, 
during  this  interval,  "get  in"  other  kettles,  each  in 
its  turn  marked  with  chalk,  or  by  a  board  having 
hands  and  a  dial  with  figures  like  a  clock.  When  the 
boiling  is  complete,  the  dyer,  or  his  assistant  having 
the  weighed  copperas,  calls  again  the  men  and  the 
kettle  is  again  poled  up  and  the  copperas  and  argol 
sprinkled  on  and  through  the  wool.    A  simmering 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


65 


heat  is  maintained  for  \  to  f  hour  longer.  After  the 
poling  is  thoroughly  done,  which,  with  two  men,  is 
usually  about  fifteen  minutes,  the  dyer  now  "  samples  " 
the  kettle,  and  if  the  shade  is  right,  knocks  out  the 
plug  and  allows  the  stock  to  smother  for  some  time. 
By  experience  the  dyer  knows  about  how  much  to 
allow  for  "smothering"  and  subsequent  drying,  which 
both  tend  to  fill  up  and  darken  the  shade.  If  at  the 
sampling  the  shade  is  not  right,  additions  are  made 
or  alterants  used  to  "throw"  the  color,  the  kind  and 
quantity  being  determined  by  the  necessities  of  the 
case  and  the  experience  of  the  dyer.  Thus,  if  the 
shade  lacked  blue,  addition  may  be  made  of  logwood, 
indigo  extract,  etc.  If,  on  the  contrary,  the  shade 
were  too  blue,  but  not  quite  up  on  the  red,  some  alum 
may  be  added.  Alum  will  tend  also  to  brighten  and 
make  lighter  the  tone.  Archil,  too,  is  a  favorite  red 
material  to  add  where  reddish-blue  effect  is  desired. 
A  slight  addition  of  acetic  acid  or  very  dilute  sul- 
phuric acid  always  tends  to  prevent  darkening  by 
smothering  and  drying. 

The  kettle  is  poled  at  the  time  additions  are  made 
in  each  and  every  case.  These  directions  for  poling 
are  to  be  followed  in  every  case,  and  with  all  dye- 
wares  and  colors.  Men  carefully  and  well  trained 
in  this  respect  are  a  joy  forever  to  the  dyer,  and 
the  amateur  who  stays  persistently  at  poling  or 
in  some  way  moving  his  goods  about  will,  by  the 
results,  be  well  repaid  for  his  painstaking  method 
of  working. 
5 


66 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Copperas  Black. 

For  110  lbs.  of  woollen  cloth,  white  or  gray.  This 
black  is  a  favorite  because  it  resists  better  the  action 
of  sunlight  than  a  bichromate-of- potash  black.  It 
is  the  broadcloth  black  of  our  daddies.  It  has  the 
defect  of  being  sensitive  to  acids,  urine,  etc.  It  is 
partly  a  prepared  (mordanted)  and  partly  a  saddened 
color.  There  is  no  more  brilliant  black,  except  it  be 
the  so-called  roller  blacks,  now  nearly  obsolete. 

For  110  lbs.  the  goods  are  first  boiled  with 
9  lbs.  logwood  extract, 
2J  lbs.  fustic  extract, 
well  dissolved  and  added  to  sufficient  water  in  which 
to  work  the  goods,  and  afterward  the  liquor  somewhat 
cooled. 

2  lbs.  oxalic  acid 

is  next  added  and  worked  for  fifteen  minutes  and 
2t4q-  lbs.  bluestone 

3  lbs.  copperas 

are  then  sprinkled  on,  and  after  working  fifteen 
minutes,  the  whole  is  brought  to  the  boil  along  with 
the  cloth  and  boiled  f  hour.  Run  off  and  rinse.  The 
color  is  now  a  gray  of  no  special  character,  and  is  to 
be  filled  up  in  a  fresh  bath  with 

21  lbs.  logwood  extract, 

2|  lbs.  fustic  extract, 
for  fine  goods;  with  coarse  stock  somewhat  less  is 
needed.  Dissolve  the  extracts  and  add  them  to  the 
cool  dye  bath  and  bring  slowly  to  the  boil  while 
working  the  goods.  Logwood  and  fustic  extracts  are 
by  no  means  constant  quantities. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


67 


The  above  formula  is  for  a  logwood  at  6  to  7  cents 
per  lb.  Hematines  at  12  cents  and  crystals  at  16  to 
20  cents  would,  of  course,  require  proportionately 
less,  while  if  logwood  chip  were  used  5  to  8  lbs.  of 
chip^l  lb.  extract. 

To  this  class  of  colors  belong  sumac  extract,  and 
berries,  the  bark  of  alder,  poplar,  hemlock,  butternut 
bark,  and  shells  of  the  nuts,  walnut  husks,  and  a 
multitude  of  weeds,  horseradish  leaves,  etc.  They 
may  be  readily  obtained  in  all  parts  of  the  country, 
and  experiments  with  such  things  are  always  inter- 
esting by  bringing  out  further  possibilities  in  this 
direction.  Saffron  used  to  be  grown  by  our  grand- 
mothers, and  many  a  fine  bit  of  red  and  orange  have 
they  produced.  They  are  many  of  them  very  per- 
manent and  pleasing  dyes.  They  are  often  astringent 
(contain  tannin),  and  will  dye  cotton  and  linen  or 
woollen  and  silk.  The  scrub  palmetto  of  our  southern 
United  States  of  America  contains  sufficient  of  such 
material  to  dye  the  cotton  grown  there  a  full  and  fast 
brown.  Sun  actually  seems  to  develop  and  fasten 
the  color,  as  is  true  of  many  of  these  things.  In 
general,  all  that  is  necessary,  in  applying  them,  is  to 
boil  the  goods  in  an  infusion  either  neutral  or  slightly 
sour  from  addition  of  vinegar,  acetic  acid,  muriatic 
acid,  etc.,  and  either  in  the  same  or  a  fresh  bath,  add 
copperas,  bluestone,  alum,  bichromate  of  potash, 
tin  crystals,  etc.  Man  has  sought  and  found  dyes  to 
supersede  these  things;  dyes  that  are  good,  and  bet- 
ter, perhaps,  and  of  which  he  can  control  the  output 
and  price.  Still  they  are  worthy  of  notice,  and  it  is 
5 


68 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


hoped  many  a  housewife  will  yet  be  found  who  can, 
and  does,  dye  with  them  various  things  for  her  use 
and  adornment. 

Crossdyeing. 

Crossdyeing  is  the  term  applied  to  that  form  of 
manufacturing  of  cloths  wherein  two  fibres  are  used, 
one  of  which,  usually  the  cotton,  is  "stock-dyed," 
i.e.,  colored  the  desired  shade  before  carding  and  spin- 
ning, and  the  wool,  and  perhaps  silk  also,  carded  along 
with  it,  that  is,  white,  or  uncolored.  After  the  piece 
is  woven  it  is  piece-dyed  to  bring  the  wool  and  silk 
to  the  same  shade  as  the  cotton.  There  has  been 
much  said  and  written  about  the  comparative  value  of 
methods  of  crossdyeing  with  the  more  recently  per- 
fected method  of  "  union  dyeing,"  the  argument  being 
that  where  each  fibre  was  taken  by  itself  it  could  be 
treated  by  methods  peculiarly  suited  to  it  and  dyed 
before  making  into  cloth,  thereby  getting  colors  more 
permanent  than  could  otherwise  be  obtained.  Of 
course  this  mode  of  procedure  presupposes  that  for 
crossdyeing  the  color  put  on  shall  withstand  the 
following  processes  without  alterations  that  would 
injure  it.  This  argument  is  perfectly  true  and  well 
founded,  and  carried  into  practice  very  largely,  both 
for  stock-dyeing  all  the  fibres  entering  into  a  piece  of 
cloth,  and  also  where  a  portion  is  left  white  and 
afterward  piece-dyed;  or,  as  technically  called,  cross- 
dyed.  Since  the  introduction  of  the  sulphur  colors 
for  cotton,  the  supporters  of  the  argument  for  sep- 
arate dyes  for  wool,  any  animal  fibre,  and  cotton  or 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


69 


any  vegetable  fibre,  have  had  their  position  very 
much  strengthened.  Still  it  remains  to  be  said,  for 
the  union-dyed  side  of  the  argument,  that  the  trouble 
and  expense  involved  in  the  separate  dyeing  for  each 
fibre  is  too  great,  the  time  required  is  too  long;  also 
that  in  the  present  state  of  the  art  of  dyeing,  union 
dyes  have  been  found  that  color  very  nearly  as  per- 
manently as  the  separate  methods  can  do,  and  for 
domestic  purposes  this  may  be  assumed  to  be  true. 
The  convenience  to  the  amateur  dyer  is  so  very  great, 
saving,  as  the  process  does,  so  many  handlings  and 
manipulations;  the  elimination  of  chance  for  mistake 
or  accident;  the  freedom  of  the  finished  work  from 
"specks";  the  simultaneous  and  equal  coloring  of 
linings,  facings,  and  thread,  make  the  advantages  of 
union  dyeing,  for  renovating  purposes,  very  apparent. 
Still  further,  the  amateur  is  saved  the  trouble,  even 
if  he  had  the  skill  necessary,  of  selecting  appropriate 
proportions  of  red,  yellow,  and  blue  to  produce  any 
color,  or  shade  of  color.  The  dealer  or  package-dye 
man  attends  to  this,  and  consequently  the  dyeing  to 
renovate  a  garment  is  reduced  to  great  simplicity. 
It  only  remains  for  the  amateur  to  dissolve  his  dye 
in  an  appropriate  vessel,  and  heat  and  stir  about  his 
goods  carefully,  to  ensure  very  good  and  satisfactory 
results.  Sky-blue  cannot  be  dyed  upon  black,  goes 
without  saying;  neither  can  a  green  garment  be  dyed 
red.  Still,  the  faded  garment  always  admits  of 
freshening  up  with  a  dye  suitably  selected  for  the 
purpose.  Another  form  of  crossdyeing  involves  the 
so-called  resist  dyeing.    The  stock  or  yarn  may  be 


70 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


dyed  an  appropriate  color,  and  afterward  treated  to 
a  "resist,"  whereby  its  property  of  absorbing  more 
dye  is  destroyed,  and  if  woven  in  with  white  or  other 
colored  yarn  not  having  the  resist  upon  it,  will 
appear  as  a  line  or  checked  pattern  after  the  woven 
piece  is  "crossdyed."  The  process  consists,  after 
dyeing  the  checking  threads,  of  applying  tannin  fol- 
lowed by  a  solution  of  tin  salt,  but  is  of  no  special 
interest  to  the  amateur  dyer.  Crossdyeing  is  also 
the  term  applied  to  that  form  of  (a]l-wool,  all-silk, 
or  all-cotton  manufacture,  where  part  of  the  yarn  is 
first  colored  black  and  the  rest  of  the  warp  and  weft 
is  of  white  or  light-colored  yarn,  and  then  afterward 
piecedyed  red,  yellow,  green,  brown,  etc.  The  black 
part  is  not  very  noticeably  altered  by  this  treatment, 
and  is  sometimes  made  somewhat  lacking  in  fulness 
that  the  crossdyeing  is  expected  to  "fill  up."  The 
object  in  so  doing  is  usually  to  have  the  strong  soap 
and  alkaline  liquids  used  in  fulling  and  scouring  come 
only  upon  the  black  that  is  fully  equal  to  such  treat- 
ment, when  a  delicate  and  bright  shade  of  green, 
red,  yellow,  etc.,  might  suffer  by  the  treatment,  and 
can  just  as  well  be  put  on  later.  Another  reason  is 
that  pieces  are  often  treated  with  carbonizing  liquids 
for  the  removal  of  any  accidental  admixtures,  or  the 
unavoidable  presence  of  cotton  and  vegetable  matter 
generally  that  show  up  unpleasantly  as  "specks"  in 
the  finished  goods.  Many  colors  will  not  withstand 
the  strong  acid  treatment  of  carbonizing,  and  there- 
fore they  are  not  "put  on"  until  this  part  of  the  work 
is  done.    Carbonizing  consists  in  wetting  the  speck- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


71 


forming  admixtures,  and  unavoidably  the  rest  of  the 
piece,  with  some  liquid  that  after  drying  will  act 
upon  the  vegetable  matter  energetically  enough  to 
make  it  fall  into  powder  by  friction.  A  heat  of  about 
230°  Fahr.  in  a  properly  constructed  oven  or  chamber 
is  usually  employed  for  the  drying,  but  often  and 
better  it  is  practised  to  first  dry  the  goods  after 
coming  from  the  carbonizing  liquid  and  then  intro- 
duce them  into  the  higher  heated  chamber.  Time 
is  saved  by  having  the  liquids  pretty  strong  and  the 
heat  pretty  high.  It  is  also  better  that  the  treatment 
should  be  short  and. sharp  than  too  prolonged,  the 
animal  fibre  and  color  seeming  to  withstand  the 
treatment  perfectly  if  completed  in  a  few  hours, 
when  if  prolonged  for  two  days  they  would  be  ser- 
iously affected.  , 

Mordanted  Wool  Colors. 

For  the  purposes  of  this  work  a  regular  preparation 
(mordant)  is  understood  to  be  3  per  cent  of  the 
weight  of  the  goods  of  bichromate  of  potash,  2\  per 
cent  of  the  weight  of  the  goods  of  oxalic  acid,  dis- 
solved in  the  hot  bath  of  about  30  gallons  of  water 
to  each  10  lbs.  of  material  and  the  goods  boiled  therein 
for  \\  hours  and  the  goods  drained  off,  cooled,  and 
rinsed  in  tepid  water.  A  medium  preparation  is  \ 
the  above  bichromate  of  potash  and  oxalic  acid 
boiled  same  as  the  regular  preparation.  A  light 
preparation  is  1  per  cent  of  bichromate  of  potash  and 
1  per  cent  of  oxalic  acid,  applied  same  as  the  first. 
The  preparations  are  efficient  immediately  at  the 


72 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


expiration  of  the  1{  hour  of  boiling,  but  if  aired,  and 
left  some  time,  or  over  night,  acquire  additional 
value,  especially  for  dark  shades  where  especial  re- 
quirements of  fastness  and  bloom  are  essential. 
Pieces  if  left  over  night  should  be  folded  fairly 
smooth. 

Loose  stock  should  be,  before  proceeding  to  dye, 
picked  apart  to  remove  snarls  and  felted  places, 
produced  by  boiling  or  otherwise.  A  good  way  to 
prepare  the  dye  bath  is  to  fill  the  kettle  to  about  J 
its  capacity,  and  boil  up  the  dyewares  therein,  until 
solution  is  assured,  then  fill  up  the  kettle,  add  the 
assistants,  acetic  acid,  etc.,  and  proceed  at  once  to 
enter  the  goods.  The  bath  should  be  about  160° 
Fahr.  The  goods  are  worked  for,  say,  15  minutes 
before  heat  is  applied,  then  gradually  raised  to  boiling, 
and  boiled  1  hour,  or  to  shade.  If  a  shade  is  to  be 
matched,  care  is  to  be  exercised  that  too  much  dye- 
ware  is  not  weighed  up  at  first,  that  the  goods  are 
examined  with  care  when  coming  to  a  boil,  and  in  no 
case  to  overshoot  the  mark.  Additions  can  easily  be 
made,  but  a  color  once  got  too  dark  is  a  hard  pro- 
position. The  following  formulae  are  each  for  100  lbs. 
wool  or  woollen  fabric: 

Yellow-Brown,  Regular  Preparation. 

f  lb.  anthracine  brown  R,  |  lb.  chrome  yellow  D  F 
(Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.),  acetic  acid  enough 
to  correct  the  water,  say  2  lbs.,  and,  after  boiling 
some  time,  further  addition  of  acetic  acid  sufficient 
to  exhaust  the  bath. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


73 


Pearly  Slate. 
Light  preparation:  T\  lb.  acid  alizarine  black  B 
powder,  xoVo  lb.  alizarine  red  W  powder  (Farben- 
fabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.),  2  lbs.  acetic  acid.  Boil 
1  hour. 

Medium  Light  Blue. 
Regular  preparation:  2  lbs.  alizarine  blue  S  pow- 
der, 2  lbs.  acetic  acid.   Boil  40  minutes. 

Medium  Blue. 
Regular  preparation:  2  lbs.  alizarine  blue  B  A  3  R 
powder,  1  lb.  alizarine  blue  S  powder,  2  lbs.  acetic 
acid.   Boil  1  hour. 

Dark  Blue. 

Regular  preparation :  5  to  7  lbs.  extract  of  logwood 
in  neutral  bath,  addition  of  1  to  10  lbs.  of  extract  of 
fustic,  will  make  shades  of  dark  green.    Boil  1  hour. 

Black. 

Give  the  goods  a  regular  preparation.  Fill  up 
with  10  lbs.  extract  of  logwood,  1  lb.  extract  of  fustic. 
Dye  boiling  for  1  hour  and  add  2\  lbs.  copperas,  and 
simmer  \  hour  longer. 

Black  that  is  Fast  to  Sunlight. 
Give  the  goods  a  regular  preparation.    Dye  with 
6  lbs.  acid  alizarine  black  R,  \  lb.  mordant  yellow  0 
(H.  A.  Metz  &  Co.).   Boil  for  1  hour  and  add  2  lbs. 
sulphuric  acid  to  exhaust  the  bath. 

Medium  Olive,  200-Lb.  Stock. 
Give  a  regular  preparation.    Dye  with  15  lbs. 
extract  of  fustic  or  2J  lbs.  of  chrome  yellow  powder, 


74 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


lbs.  chrome  brown  powder,  12  ozs.  alizarine  blue 
powder.    Neutral  bath,  and  boil  1  hour. 

Medium  Brown. 
Give  a  regular  preparation.  Dye  with  10  lbs. 
extract  of  fustic  or  2  lbs.  alizarine  yellow  powder, 
5  ozs.  alizarine  red  powder,  1  lb.  alizarine  brown  pow- 
der, 4  ozs.  alizarine  blue  powder.  This  is  a  good  fast 
color,  and  it  may  be  said  truthfully  that  fustic  is  as 
good  and  permanent  a  yellow  dye  as  is  known.  Dye 
your  yellows,  therefore,  where  great  brilliancy  is  not 
necessary,  by  giving  your  stock  a  light,  medium,  or 
regular  preparation  and  fill  up  with  1  to  15  per  cent 
of  extract  of  fustic. 

A  Medium  Red  Fast  to  Sunlight. 
Give  goods  a  regular  preparation.  Dye  with  3  per 
cent  of  alizarine  red  powder.  Use  2  per  cent  of  acetic 
acid  in  the  dye  bath.  The  addition  to  this  formula 
of  J  per  cent  of  alizarine  blue  powder  makes  a  wine 
color.  The  further  addition  of  2  or  3  per  cent  of 
extract  of  fustic  gives  a  maroon  that  is  very  fast 
and  good. 

Bright  Greens. 
Give  a  medium  preparation  to  the  goods.  Dye 
with  2  per  cent  of  alizarine  yellow  powder  or  10  per 
cent  of  extract  of  fustic  for  the  yellow  part;  1  to  3  per 
cent  patent  blue  or  1  to  3  per  cent  alizarine  blue  SKY 
for  blue.  Enter  in  the  bath  at  170°  Fahr.,  and  raise 
slowly  to  boiling.  After  some  time  add  3  per  cent 
acetic  acid  and  work  below  the  boil  for  \  hour. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


75 


Orange,  Very  Fast. 
Give  the  goods  a  regular  preparation;  5  per  cent 
of  extract  of  fustic  or  1  per  cent  of  alizarine  yellow 
powder,  \  to  J  per  cent  of  alizarine  red  powder.  Dye 
neutral;  boil  1  hour. 

Lavender  or  Purple. 
Give  a  medium  preparation.    Dye  with  J  to  1| 
per  cent  of  alizarine  blue  powder,      to  \  per  cent  of 
alizarine  red  powder,  2  per  cent  of  acetic  acid.  Boil 
1  hour. 

MISCELLANEOUS  DYE  RECEIPTS. 

Catechu  Drab  on  Cotton. 

Work  the  cotton  for  15  minutes  in  hot  water  con- 
taining prepared  catechu.  The  amount  of  catechu 
is  governed  by  the  depth  of  color  wanted.  The  goods 
are  then  lifted  and  1  to  3  per  cent  of  copperas  is 
added;  work  again  for  10  minutes,  or  to  shade.  To 
prepare  catechu,  1  lb.  catechu  is  boiled  in  8  gallons 
of  water  till  all  is  dissolved;  add  2  oz.  of  copper 
sulphate  and  stir. 

Catechu  Brown  on  Cotton. 

The  cotton  is  boiled  with  an  infusion  of  catechu 
for  some  time.  If  a  dark  shade  is  wanted  it  is  well 
to  have  a  20-per-cent  infusion  (of  the  weight  of  the 
goods)  and  to  steep  over  night.  Lift,  and  drain  well, 
but  do  not  rinse.  In  a  fresh  bath  containing  3  per  cent 
bichromate  of  potash  work  the  cotton  for  \  hour. 
Run  off  and  rinse.   This  operation  is  to  be  repeated 


76 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


till  the  goods  are  dark  enough.  The  writer  has  dyed 
very  handsome  corduroys  by  this  method.  Successive 
treatments  from  the  catechu  bath  to  the  chrome  bath 
develop  more  and  more  of  a  wine  shade.  The  cotton 
becomes  thoroughly  well  mordanted  and  can  be 
topped  with  logwood,  fustic,  alizarine  red,  blue,  or 
brown  direct.    Very  serviceable  for  lap-robes. 

Iron  Buff  (Khaki)  on  Cotton. 

First  "boil  out"  the  cotton,  simply  to  have  it 
thoroughly  wet.  For  10  lbs.  of  cotton  dissolve  2  lbs. 
of  copperas  in  hot  water  and  add  cold  water  to  make 
a  bath  large  enough  for  the  goods.  Work  the  cotton 
material  in  this  for  20  minutes,  wring  out,  and  put 
at  once  into  lime  water,  and  work  15  minutes.  Wring 
out  and  expose  to  the  air  for  \  hour.  If  not  dark 
enough,  work  again  in  the  same  copperas  bath,  and 
in  a  fresh  lime-water  bath.  Repeat  as  many  times  as 
necessary,  always  using  fresh  lime-water.  Finally 
wash  through  clean  warm  water. 

Another  Way. 

Boil  the  loose  cotton  or  cotton  cloth  in  a  wTeak 
caustic  potash  or  caustic  soda  bath  to  remove  the 
natural  resinous  matter,  size,  grease,  etc.  For  10  lbs. 
of  material,  4  ozs.  of  caustic  is  enough.  Keep  well 
worked  and  below  the  surface  of  the  lye  bath.  Drain, 
rinse,  and  open  out  the  goods.  Soak  in  a  bath  con- 
taining 1  pint  of  nitrate  of  iron,  wash  out  in  water, 
and  dry.  The  process  is  simple  and  easy,  and  the 
color  fast. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


77 


Prussian  Blue. 

Work  10  lbs.  of  wet-out  cotton  in  a  solution  of  4  lbs. 
copperas  for  15  minutes.  The  bath  is  cold.  Work 
again  in  a  fresh  bath  containing  4  ozs.  ferrocyanide 
of  potassium.  Finally  wash  in  cold  water  containing 
1  oz.  alum. 

Permanent  Olive. 

A  very  permanent  and  pleasing  olive  color  can  be 
put  upon  white  woollen  material  as  follows:  Gather 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  horseradish  leaves.  Twist  and 
break  or  bruise  them  and  pack  tightly  in  a  pail  or  tub. 
Cover  with  boiling-hot  water  and  stand  at  rest  over 
night.  Drain  off  the  liquor  and  add  just  sufficient 
acid,  preferably  muriatic,  to  change  the  color  of  the 
liquor  from  its  first  olive  tone  to  a  paler  and  more 
yellow  tone.  Enter  now  the  material  to  be  dyed 
and  boil  for  30  minutes,  gently,  and  supplying  water 
that  evaporates.  To  fix  the  color  all  that  is  necessary 
is  to  add  sal-soda  just  sufficient  to  slightly  overcome 
or  neutralize  the  acid  previously  added.  It  is  a 
peculiar  property  of  this  dye  bath  that  several  suc- 
cessive dyeings  can  be  made  in  it.  They  all  come  out 
the  same  shade  if  the  volume  is  kept  constant.  After 
one  dyeing  has  been  made  simply  acidify  the  bath. 
Boil  up  in  it  more  material  and  again  neutralize  to 
the  point  where  the  color  develops.  The  writer  has 
made  eighteen  successive  dyeings,  without  exhausting 
this  dye  bath.  Copperas  may  be  used  to  sadden 
this  color,  but  of  course  must  be  in  a  separate  bath. 


78 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Eight  months'  exposure  does  not  fade  this  color  to 
an  appreciable  extent. 

To  Make  Lime  Water. 

Fresh-burned  stone  lime  is  slaked  by  pouring  water 
upon  it  so  long  as  it  is  absorbed  and  until  the  lump 
opens  out  and  falls  to  a  fine  powder.  Of  this,  1  lb. 
is  added  to  10  gallons  water,  well  stirred  up  and 
allowed  to  settle.    Use  the  clear. 

Indigo  Blue  for  Yarn. 

To  a  50-gallon  barrel,  about  f  filled  with  cold  water, 
add  8  lbs.  ground  indigo,  16  lbs.  copperas,  and  24  lbs. 
fresh  slaked  lime.  Stir  well  for  |  hour  and  repeat 
every  \  hour  until  the  vat  becomes  yellow  and  veins 
of  blue  seem  to  run  through  it  and  a  fine  flurry  of 
blue  froth  appears  on  the  surface.  Allow  to  stand 
and  settle  over  night.  Work  the  yarn  in  a  net  in  the 
vat  for  15  minutes  and  expose  to  the  air.  Repeat 
the  operation  until  as  dark  as  wanted.  Finally  dip 
the  yarn  in  water  containing  sulphuric  acid  sufficient 
to  be  distinctly  sour  to  the  taste.  Rinse  well  and  dry. 
Several  vats  are  generally  used,  dipping  in  the  strong- 
est first  and  matching  from  the  weakest.  As  the 
weaker  ones  become  exhausted  they  are  thrown  out 
and  made  up  new,  thus  in  turn  becoming  the  strong, 
or  first  dip,  vat.  In  dark  shades  considerable  indigo 
can  be  removed  by  scouring  with  soap.  The  color  is 
not  much  changed,  but  the  goods  will  "crock"  unless 
the  scouring  be  well  done. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


79 


The  Zinc-Powder  Indigo  Vat. 

This  vat  is  based  upon  the  fact  that  zinc  powder 
in  the  presence  of  water  and  caustic  alkali  gives  off 
hydrogen  gas.  If  finely  ground  indigo  be  also  present 
in  the  water  it  becomes  reduced  and  dissolved  in  the 
alkaline  fluid.  A  very  strong  solution  of  indigo  is 
thus  made  in  a  tub,  and  the  strong  solution  added  to 
the  vat  in  which  the  dyeing  is  done.  The  dye  vat 
has  previously  added  to  it  some  zinc  and  caustic 
alkali  to  prevent  reoxidation  of  indigo  when  the 
strong  solution  of  reduced  indigo  is  added.  This  vat 
is  ready  for  use  as  soon  as  made  up,  and  keeps  in- 
definitely. If  too  much  zinc  powder  is  present  in 
the  vat  a  continual  escape  of  hydrogen  gas  makes 
it  roily.  A  little  indigo  added  to  the  vat  and  raked 
up  will  correct  this  difficulty.  The  vat  should  have 
a  greenish  yellow  to  yellow  color.  A  red  or  orange 
indicates  too  much  caustic,  and  small  quantities  of 
zinc  and  indigo  are  added,  raked  up,  and  when  again 
clear,  work  is  resumed  in  the  vat.  This  vat  makes 
very  clear  and  fine  sky  blue  to  medium  dark  indigo 
blue.  Indigo  is  not  a  constant  quantity.  Therefore 
take  1  part  of  zinc  dust  and  3  parts  of  caustic  soda 
(crushed),  both  weighed  up  dry.  Dissolve  the  caustic 
in  a  teacup  or  glass  and  stir  in  one  part  of  powdered 
indigo,  add  the  zinc  dust,  stir  up,  and  set  in  a  warm 
place  and  observe.  After  \  hour  the  stirring-rod 
should  come  out  looking  a  rich  coppery  blue,  the 
fluid  if  in  glass  should  be  yellow,  and  escape  of  gas 
should  be  very  small;  if  orange  or  red  the  reduction 


80 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


has  been  carried  too  far,  and  if  still  too  blue  or  green, 
not  far  enough.  From  the  data  obtained  proceed  to 
make  up  your  stock  solution  of  indigo  in  a  6-gallon 
jar  or  other  suitable  vessel.  Fresh  slaked  lime, 
caustic  potash,  and  strong  ammonia  may  also  be  used. 

To  Dye  Cotton  Blue. 

10  Lbs.  of  Cotton. 

Work  for  15  minutes  in  a  solution  of  4  lbs.  of 
copperas.  Wring  out.  Work  again  in  a  solution  of 
4  ozs.  ferrocyanide  of  potassium.  Finally  wash  in 
cold  water  containing  1  oz.  alum. 

To  Dye  Cotton  Black. 

10  Lbs.  of  Cotton. 

Steep  the  goods  in  a  decoction  of  3  lbs.  of  sumach 
extract;  have  as  little  water  as  necessary;  boil  the 
cotton  under  and  let  it  lie  over  night.  Squeeze  out, 
and  work  10  minutes  in  lime  water.  Work  for  \  hour 
in  solution  of  2  lbs.  copperas;  work  again  through  lime 
water,  and  dye  hot  with  3  lbs.  logwood  extract  or  an 
equivalent  of  decoction  of  logwood  in  as  small  a  vol- 
ume of  water  as  may  be.  Sadden  with  2  ozs.  copperas 
in  same  bath,  wash,  and  dry. 

To  Make  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

Four  parts  of  nitric  acid  and  1  part  of  water  are 
placed  in  a  glass  or  glazed  earthen  vessel  and  so  placed 
that  it  can  be  kept  quite  warm.    Add  clean  iron  in 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


81 


wire  or  borings  so  long  as  effervescence  takes  place. 
Take  out  any  undissolved  iron  and  settle  for  1  hour. 
The  clear  solution  is  ready  for  use,  and  kept  in  a 
dark  place.  The  fumes  should  be  guarded  against 
during  this  operation;  they  are  injurious  if  breathed 
and  corrode  various  things  with  which  they  come  in 
contact.  The  principal  use  of  nitrate  of  iron  is  for 
dyeing  Prussian  blue. 

To  Dye  Black. 

First  mordant  the  fabric  by  steeping  in  solution  of 
nitrate  of  iron  4°  Beaume  for  \  hour.  Rinse  and  boil 
with  decoction  of  logwood,  shade  with  fustic,  1  oz. 
to  1  lb. ;  according  to  whether  a  bluish  or  dead  black 
is  desired. 

To  Dye  Woollens  a  Gray  Color. 

Boil  the  white  woollen  material  in  a  bath  containing 
to  each  gallon  If  oz.  gall  nuts,  \\  ozs.  tartar,  and  1 
fluid  drachm  of  indigo  extract,  for  \  hour.  Lift. 
Add  to  the  bath  3  per  cent  of  copperas;  re-enter  the 
goods.    Boil  \  hour. 

To  Dye  Woollens  Green. 

Boil  the  goods  for  1  hour  with  3  per  cent  bichromate 
of  potash  and  2\  per  cent  of  oxalic  acid.  In  a  fresh 
bath  dye  boiling  for  1  hour  with  2  per  cent  of  fluid 
extract  of  logwood  and  2  per  cent  of  fluid  extract  of 
fustic.  If  not  blue  enough  add  more  logwood  to  the 
bath  and  boil  again. 
6 


82 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Dye  a  Yellow  Color  on  Wool  or  Woollens. 

Boil  10  to  30  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  goods  Quer- 
citron bark  with  sufficient  water  to  work  the  goods. 
Tie  the  bark  loosely  in  a  coarse  bag  suspended  in  the 
boiling  bath.  Boil  1  hour.  Remove  the  bag  or  not 
and  add  3  per  cent  alum,  \  per  cent  tin  salt,  and  1 
per  cent  of  argol.  Boil  10  minutes.  Cool  the  liquor 
to  170°  by  adding  cold  water.  Enter  the  goods. 
Raise  slowly  to  boiling  and  boil  \  hour. 

If  the  woollens  have  been  previously  dyed,  it  will 
require  some  skill  and  judgment  to  determine  just 
what  shades  and  colors  they  can  be  brought  to  by 
re-dyeing.  A  10-per-cent  boiling  bath  of  ammonia 
removes  the  sour  colors  previously  upon  them. 
Mordanted  colors  are  not  much  affected  by  treatment 
with  hot  ammonia  baths.  All  logwood  colors  are 
removed  or  greatly  changed  by  boiling  in  a  5-  to  10- 
per-cent  solution  of  oil  of  vitriol.  The  mordant  is 
not  removed,  and  the  goods  can  be  re-dyed  equally 
well  without  remordanting.  It  is  well  always  to  test 
a  small  piece  of  the  goods  previous  to  dyeing. 

To  Dye  Woollens  a  Dark  Blue. 

No.  1. — Mordant  by  boiling  for  1  hour  in  water  con- 
taining 5  to  10  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  goods 
of  alum.  Run  off  the  liquor  and  make  up  a  fresh 
bath  by  boiling  8  ozs.  of  logwood  chip,  confined  in  a 
coarse  bag,  to  each  gallon  of  water.  Boil  the  goods 
again  in  this  second  liquor  \  hour.  Lift  the  goods, 
add  some  water  to  cool  down  the  liquor,  and  add  2\ 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


83 


ozs.  of  potash  per  gallon  of  liquor,  and  steep  the  goods 
again  without  heating  more  than  necessary  until  the 
blue  is  developed. 

No.  2. — Mordant  and  dye  same  as  above,  using 
^  to  J  the  materials,  thus  producing  a  pale  blue  color. 
In  a  fresh  bath  boil  for  one  hour  with  §  per  cent  blue 
vitriol,  \  per  cent  green  vitriol,  1  per  cent  alum, 
f  per  cent  argol,  \  per  cent  of  tin  salt,  and  a  very 
little  nitric  acid;  lift  and  lay  over  night;  dye  finally 
in  a  fresh  bath  containing  2  to  5  per  cent  of  liquid 
extract  of  logwood.  Raise  slowly  to  boiling  and  boil 
\  hour.  The  more  extract  of  logwood  used  the 
darker  the  blue. 

To  Dye  Woollen  a  Brown  Color. 

Boil  the  goods  for  1  \  hours  in  a  decoction  containing 
for  each  gallon  1  oz.  madder,  1  oz.  sumac  (or  \  oz. 
gall  nuts),  1  oz.  argol,  2  ozs.  sanders  wood.  Lift. 
Cool  down  the  bath  by  adding  cold  water  or  standing 
to  about  170°  Fahr.  Sadden  by  adding  to  the  bath 
copperas  and  reboiling  the  goods  \  hour.  Before 
adding  the  copperas  it  is  well  to  dissolve,  say,  1  oz. 
in  some  hot  water ;  add  it  to  the  bath  in  portions  until 
the  shade  is  as  dark  as  required.  Lift  the  goods 
between  each  addition. 

To  Dye  Blue  about  2  lbs.  of  Material. 

Steep  the  fabric  \  hour  in  nitrate  of  iron  solution 
1  to  2  per  cent.  Boil.  Rinse.  Dye  in  solution  of  4  ozs. 
yellow  prussiate  of  potash  and  2  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 


84 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Rinse  in  cold  water  containing  2  ozs.  spirits  of  sal- 
ammoniac.    Finally  rinse  again  in  clean  water. 

To  Make  Acetate  of  Alumina. 

No.  1. — Add  solution  of  acetate  of  baryta  to  a  solu- 
tion of  aluminum  sulphate.   Settle  and  use  the  clear. 

No.  2. — Six  parts  sugar  of  lead  and  5  parts  of  alum. 
Dissolve  separately  in  hot  water,  cool,  and  mix. 
Decant. 

No.  3. — Dissolve  alumina  hydrate  in  cold  strong 
acetic  acid  until  saturated. 

To  Dye  a  Brown  Color  on  2  lbs.  of  Material. 

Mordant  in  a  mixture  of  3  parts  of  acetate  of 
alumina  and  2  parts  of  acetate  of  iron,  each  5°  Baume. 
Rinse.   Dye  by  boiling  with  1  to  2  lbs.  of  madder. 

To  Make  Acetate  of  Iron. 

Dissolve  ferric  hydrate  (sesquioxide  of  iron)  in 
strong  acetic  acid.  The  hydrate  may  be  obtained  by 
dissolving  copperas  in  strong  sulphuric  acid,  20  ozs. 
copperas  and  7  ozs.  acid.  Heat  nearly  to  the  boil 
and  add  with  care  10  ozs.  nitric  acid,  and  when  action 
ceases,  add  sufficient  ammonia  to  throw  down  all  the 
iron. 

Ferric  chloride  solution  to  which  some  nitric  acid 
has  been  added  may  be  precipitated  in  the  same  way. 
The  brown  flocculent  precipitate  is  ferric  hydroxide, 
and  is  collected  upon  a  cloth  filter  after  dilution,  and 
washed  with  water.  Finally  dissolve  by  putting  in 
a  bottle  or  jar  with  strong  acetic  acid. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


85 


Hints  to  Success  in  Redyeing. 

Have  the  goods  clean  before  dyeing.  Don't  have 
tiie  bath  too  strong.  Better  have  a  long  immersion 
in  a  weak  dye  bath  than  a  short  immersion  in  a 
strong  one.  Keep  the  goods  under  the  liquid  while 
dyeing;  don't  let  them  lie  against  the  bottom  of 
the  boiler  when  over  the  fire,  but  keep  pushed  down, 
turned  over,  and  continually  moving  until  removed 
from  the  fire  and  from  the  dye  vessel.  Dyed  goods 
should  be  pressed  on  the  wrong  side,  but  if  necessary 
to  press  on  the  face  or  right  side,  wring  out  a  cotton 
cloth  and  use  it  under  the  iron.  Iron  ribbons  be- 
tween damp  cloths  and  stop  ironing  before  they 
are  quite  dry  to  prevent  stiffening  them.  Wind 
them  over  a  roller  instead  of  folding  and  laying 
them  away. 

Never  put  dry  dye  powder  directly  into  the  dye 
vessel,  but  first  dissolve  it  thoroughly.  If  adding 
more  dye  to  the  dye  vessel  remove  the  goods,  and 
with  a  portion  of  the  dye  liquor  dissolve  and  add 
the  solution  to  the  bath  and  stir  it  up  well  before 
returning  the  goods  to  the  bath. 

To  obtain  the  best  results  discharge  as  much  of 
any  previous  dye  as  possible;  try  first  with  boiling 
hot  water,  and  next  with  boiling  water  and  some 
ammonia  added.  Ribbons  and  ladies'  wear  generally 
will  strip  off.  Men's  wear  will  not  as  the  colors  are 
of  a  much  more  permanent  nature. 

Where  the  old  color  can  be  in  large  part  discharged, 
entirely  new  color  can  be  put  on  as  bright  as  can  be 


86 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


desired  where,  if  not  got  rid  of,  it  might  entirely  alter 
or  change  the  new  color. 

Hard-twisted  goods  require  more  time  in  dyeing 
and  weaker  dyes.  Light  tan  shades  cannot  be  dyed 
satisfactorily  in  strong  dye  liquors;  have  them  very 
weak  to  commence  with. 

Too  much  dye,  put  on  too  quick,  is  the  cause  of 
crocking;  avoid  it,  and  rinse  well  in  soapy  water 
to  make  sure  all  loose  dye  is  out. 

An  ecru  is  the  merest  tinge  in  the  dye  bath  of  very 
light  orange  to  which  is  added  a  very  little  brown  to 
throw  it  on  the  ecru  tint.  Cloths  taken  from  the 
dye  bath  should  be  wrung  very  gently,  especially  if 
very  thin  and  light  material,  and  are  often  torn  by 
wringing  too  hard;  best  twist  them  in  a  towel  if 
small. 

Deep  red,  if  dyed  into  black,  requires  some  green 
added  to  the  dye,  or  the  black  will  be  " rusty" 
or  of  a  brownish  shade.  Conversely  a  deep  green 
would  require  about  one-tenth  of  the  dye  used  in 
making  it  black  to  be  red  to  insure  a  pleasing  tone 
of  black. 

Fruit  and  Vegetable  Stains. 

Fruit  and  vegetable  stains,  wine  and  colored  vine- 
gar, tea,  coffee,  chocolate,  etc.,  may  be  classed  with 
saddened  colors.  Sun,  soap,  alkalies,  perspiration, 
etc.,  being  the  saddening  agent,  they  are  often  very 
fast  fixed  upon  fabrics,  and  nothing  short  of  a  good 
bleaching  agent  can  be  depended  upon  to  remove 
them.    On  white  goods  this  can  be  done  readily 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS.  87 

enough,  but  unfortunately  colored  goods  in  general 
are  sensitive  to  any  reagent  that  will  remove  the  stain. 
Fresh  stains  of  this  kind  should  be  treated  at  once 
with  water,  cold  at  first  and  warm  to  hot  afterward, 
that  the  effect  be  noted  both  upon  the  fabric  and  the 
stain.  Weak  acid  solution  of  almost  any  kind  usually 
makes  them  paler,  but  should  only  be  tried  after 
water  has  removed  all  that  is  possible  that  way.  For 
white  cotton  goods  bleaching-powder  is  the  reliance. 
This  substance,  when  fresh  and  good,  is  a  very  power- 
ful bleaching  agent.  Unfortunately  it  does  not  keep 
well,  and  often  when  purchased,  especially  from  drug- 
gists, is  of  very  inferior  quality  or  worthless  from  age. 
A  small  quantity  of  the  dry  powder  placed  in  the 
bottom  of  a  glass  and  a  little  dilute  acid  (vinegar,  etc.) 
poured  over  it  should  effervesce  (or  foam)  and  give 
off  a  greenish  brown  vapor  plainly  visible  in  the  glass. 
The  smell  is  very  characteristic  and  is  injurious  if 
breathed  in  any  great  quantity. 

To  Prepare  Bleaching  Liquor. 

One  pound  of  bleaching-powder  to  every  2  gallons 
of  water.  Rub  the  powder  to  a  thin  cream  with  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  breaking  all  lumps.  Pour 
over  it  the  rest  of  the  water.  Let  settle  and  use  the 
clear.    Well  corked,  it  keeps  some  time. 

Javelle  Water  Eau  de  Javelle). 

Four  pounds  sal-soda,  one  pound  bleaching-powder 
(chloride  of  lime),  and  one  gallon  of  water.  Dissolve 
the  sal-soda  by  pouring  upon  it  the  boiling-hot  water 


88 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


and  stir  in  the  bleaching-powder  free  from  lumps. 
When  cold  bottle  for  use. 

Many  people  keep  on  hand  a  quantity  of  Javelle 
water,  and  where  considerable  is  to  be  made  take 
2  pails  of  hot  water  and  stir  in  5  lbs.  bleaching-pow- 
der; stir  4  lbs.  sal-soda  in  1  pail  hot  water,  10  lbs. 
Glauber  salt  in  1  pail  hot  water.  The  contents  of  the 
4  pails  are  to  be  poured  together,  mixed  and  settled, 
and  stored  in  a  suitable  vessel.  There  are  other  forms 
of  this  preparation  not  so  convenient  to  make,  and 
possessing  no  greater  efficiency. 

It  is  also  convenient  to  have  dilute  clear  and  color- 
less acid  on  hand  all  the  time.  For  small  jobs  2  ozs. 
of  bleaching-powder  may  be  quickly  crushed  in  a 
mortar  and  one  pint  of  hot  water  added,  and  after 
mixing  and  standing  a  few  minutes,  poured  off  and 
through,  a  cloth  for  use. 

Table-cloths,  napkins,  handkerchiefs,  etc.,  may  be 
put  to  soak  in  a  tub  of  cold  water  containing  the 
Javelle  water,  and  worked  up  and  down  and  around 
with  a  stick  or  the  hand  several  times  during  an 
hour's  soak,  then  wring  out  and  put  them  into  a  fresh 
tub  of  cold  water  containing  just  acid  enough  to  be  per- 
ceptible to  the  taste,  when  they  should  be  thoroughly 
bleached  in  a  few  minutes.  Any  very  persistent 
stains  may  be  touched  with  the  finger  dipped  in  the 
Javelle  water  and  to  the  sour  water  once  or  twice. 

A  dipperful  of  Javelle  water  is  sufficient  for  a  large 
tubful  of  water  for  general  purposes.  If  care  is  exer- 
cised to  have  the  Javelle  water  free  from  sediment, 
and  to  rinse  the  goods  thoroughly  free  from  it,  as 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


89 


well  as  any  acid  used,  the  goods  will  not  be  injured. 
Carelessness  in  local  applications  of  Javelle  water  are 
to  be  guarded  against,  doing  damage  to  the  fabric 
at  the  point  where  applied;  not  rinsing  thoroughly 
out  being  most  common. 

Fruit  and  such  stains  do  not  show,  as  a  rule,  upon 
colored  cotton  goods  except  as  an  alterant  to  the 
color,  and  in  rare  cases  they  remove  the  color.  After 
treatment  with  water,  to  get  out  all  possible  that  way, 
a  little  ammonia  will  usually  restore  the  color.  Nine- 
tenths  of  all  cotton  colors  are  dyed  in  a  neutral  or  alka- 
line bath,  and  acids  will  change  them.  Fruit  juices 
are  acid  enough  to  do  this,  but  not  strong  enough  to 
destroy  the  color,  and  alkalies,  soap,  etc.,  restore  it 
at  once.  Blood-stains,  if  very  old,  are  removed  by 
1  oz.  iodide  of  potassium  dissolved  in  4  ozs.  of  water. 

To  Detect  Blood-Stains. 

Tincture  of  guaiacum  and  a  solution  of  hydrogen 
peroxide  in  ether  produce  instantly  with  blood  or 
blood-stains  a  tint  of  blue,  even  if  the  stains  arc 
twenty  years  old. 

Many  medicinal  preparations  are  decoctions  or 
infusions  of  vegetable  matters,  and  if  got  upon  the 
bed-clothing,  linen,  napkins,  etc.,  produce  stains, 
to  be  treated  in  every  respect  as  other  fruit  and  vege- 
table stains. 

If  the  medicines  contain  metallic  salts  and  lie  upon 
the  linen  for  a  long  time,  they  get  firmly  fixed,  and 
what  does  not  come  out  by  bleaching  and  repeated 
local  application  of  Javelle  water  and  dilute  acid 


90 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


must  be  treated  for  a  moment  to  muriatic  or  oxalic 
acid  quite  strong  and  thoroughly  rinsed  off. 

Iodine  stains  yield  to  alcohol,  and  if  iodine  solutions 
have  added  to  them  a  few  drops  of  liquid  carbolic 
acid  they  do  not  then  make  stains.  As  follows:  45 
parts  alcoholic  tincture  of  iodine,  6  drops  carbolic 
acid,  1  oz.  glycerine,  5  ozs.  water. 

All  stains  not  metallic  on  white  cotton  or  linen  may 
usually  be  successfully  treated  with  muriatic  acid, 
1  part  of  the  acid  and  2  parts  water.  Apply  the  acid 
to  the  stain  and  allow  about  2  minutes.  Then  rinse 
in  cold  water.  Muriatic  acid  is  a  volatile  acid  and 
does  not  injure  fabrics  if  allowed  to  dry  upon  them 
like  traces  of  sulphuric  acid.  Very  delicate  colors, 
where  treated  with  an  acid  to  remove  a  stain,  may 
preferably  have  powdered  chalk  applied,  than  am- 
monia, to  neutralize  the  acid  effect. 

To  Remove  Spots  and  Stains  from  Garments. 

Grease-spots  are  of  the  most  common  occurrence. 
To  remove  these  from  white  fabrics  is  comparatively 
easy,  but  to  remove  them  from  colored  fabrics  with- 
out at  the  same  time  doing  injury  to  the  color  is  often 
very  difficult  and  sometimes  impossible.  Very  much 
depends  upon  the  skill  and  perseverance  of  the 
operator.  Good  soap  and  water  is  the  most  universal 
solvent  for  greasy  matters,  and  where  there  is  no 
reason  for  not  wettirg  the  goods,  soap  and  water 
should  be  tried.  Grease-spots  from  carriage  wheels, 
sewing-machines,  or  any  source  containing  iron  from 
wear  of  bearings,  or  carbon  from  any  source,  red  lead, 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


91 


or  any  insoluble  colored  substance,  should  be  first 
rubbed  thoroughly  with  some  oil  that  is  itself  capable 
of  being  washed  out  with  soap  and  water,  lard  or 
fresh  butter,  olive  oil,  linseed  oil,  etc. 

Much  depends  upon  how  this  is  done.  Don't  be 
afraid  to  use  plenty  of  oil,  butter,  or  lard,  and  then 
work  with  the  fingers,  bending  the  cloth  back  and 
forth  as  if  you  were  breaking  a  wire,  until  upon  hold- 
ing it  up  to  the  light  you  see  that  the  dark  matter 
of  the  spot  is  completely  and  evenly  distributed  and 
worked  up  with  the  oil.  When  sure  this  result  is 
accomplished,  then  work  in  a  thick,  cold,  watery  soap 
mass,  obtained  by  boiling  up  sliced  laundry  soap  in 
water  and  allowing  to  cool.  It  should  have  some  sal- 
soda  added  to  it  in  the  boiling.  If  on  touching  the 
dry  soap  bar  to  the  tongue,  it  does  not  "bite"  it 
should  have  some  sal-soda  added  to  it  in  the  boiling; 
work  the  prepared  soap  into  the  cloth  where  the  spot 
is  until  the  oil  in  its  turn  is  worked  up  with  the  soap 
as  thoroughly  as  the  spot  was  with  the  oil.  Now,  and 
not  before,  wash  out  the  spot  with  soapy  water.  Only 
with  very  old  spots  will  any  trace  remain  after  this 
treatment.  Grease-spots  succumb  very  well  if  rubbed 
up  with  kerosene,  the  kerosene  rubbed  up  with  new 
milk,  and  the  whole  then  worked  with  soap  and  water. 

Removing  Grease-Spots  by  Solvents. 

The  solvent  should  not  be  applied  direct  to  the  spot, 
but  first  make  a  ring  around  the  spot  with  the  solvent 
and  then  apply  the  solvent  from  the  ring  toward  the 
spot,  continuing  until  quite  a  quantity  of  solvent  has 


92 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


passed  through  the  fabric  at  the  point  where  the  spot 
appeared.  A  pad  may  be  held  under  the  spot,  or  a 
plate  set  under  to  catch  the  drip.  If  the  spot  is 
treated  with  a  solvent  for  grease  in  any  other  way 
than  here  indicated  it  is  almost  certain  that  you  will 
have  a  large  ring  remaining  after  the  solvent  evap- 
orates, fully  as  objectionable  as  the  original  spot. 
Use  no  solvent  that  leaves  a  stain  or  ring  on  a  clean 
white  paper  when  dropped  upon  it  and  allowed  to 
evaporate  at  a  gentle  heat.  The  more  common  sol- 
vents are  benzine,  petroleum  spirit,  gasoline,  naphtha, 
chloroform,  ether,  and  fresh  distilled  turpentine 
spirits.  Chloroform  may  be  used  near  a  light  if  need 
be,  but  the  others  are  extremely  inflammable.  The 
so-called  dry  cleaners  put  the  whole  garment  into 
benzine,  gasoline,  etc.,  and  force  in  ammonia  gas 
under  pressure,  which  is  very  effectual.  The  vapors 
from  benzine,  gasoline,  and  all  petroleum  ethers  are 
heavier  than  air,  and  the  safest  place  for  bottles 
containing  them  is  near  or  on  the  floor.  There  is  less 
danger  of  their  being  broken  or  of  the  vapors  coming 
in  contact  with  a  flame.  It  is  always  best  to  scrape  off 
all  that  is  possible  by  careful  use  of  a  knife,  followed 
in  some  cases  by  rubbing  with  cloth.  Remove  me- 
chanically all  you  can. 

To  Remove  Pine  Gum,  Pitch,  Pine  Tar,  Rosin,  and 
Oil  Varnish. 

These,  if  fresh,  and  the  garment  admits  of  the 
treatment,  can  all  be  removed  perfectly  by  rubbing 
with  oil  and  washing  out  with  soap  and  water. 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


93 


Scrape  or  otherwise  remove  mechanically  all  that  you 
can  first.  Spirits  of  turpentine  followed  by  soap  and 
water  is  very  effective.  A  mixture  of  turpentine  and 
alcohol,  or  alcohol  alone,  may  be  used,  by  making  a 
roll  of  cloth  and  using  it  as  a  dabber.  The  roll  is 
dipped  into  the  alcohol  until  quite  wet,  then  struck 
forcibly  upon  the  cloth,  forcing  the  solvent  through 
into  some  absorbent  placed  underneath.  Fuller's 
earth,  magnesia,  chalk,  starch  powder,  etc.,  may  be 
placed  under  the  cloth  and  a  hot  flatiron  held  above 
the  spot  and  the  rosin,  etc.,  forced  away  from  the 
iron  through  the  cloth  and  into  the  dry  powders. 

To  Remove  Wax  from  Garments. 

Scrape  away  as  much  as  possible  without  injury 
to  the  cloth,  then  apply  benzine  in  the  manner  given 
for  removing  grease-spots. 

To  Remove  Wax  Stains  from  Silk. 

Powdered  French  chalk  and  lavender  water  rubbed 
gently  into  the  silk,  a  piece  of  clean  blotter  laid  over 
it,  together  with  several  thicknesses  of  brown  paper 
and  a  hot  flatiron  rubbed  over  it.  The  wax  gets  into 
the  chalk  as  the  water  dries  out.  Brush  off  the  chalk 
and  repeat  if  necessary.  Have  a  care  not  to  brush 
too  hard  or  use  too  harsh  a  brush. 

To  Treat  White  Woollen  Articles  that  have  Become 
Yellow  or  Stained. 

White  woollen  articles  become  yellow  with  age  and 
the  effect  of  repeated  washings  with  soap  and  alkali. 
Such  articles,  when  washed,  would  stay  white  longer 


94 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


if  no  trace  of  soap  was  left  in  them.  To  this  end  an 
extra  rinsing  in  water  containing  some  ammonia  is 
recommended.  Small  articles  of  special  value  may 
be  advantageously  treated  to  a  bath  composed  of 
alcohol  and  water  of  each  equal  parts.  The  alcoholic 
mixture  is  applied  after  the  goods  are  washed  clean, 
and  therefore  becomes  little  soiled,  and  may  be  kept 
and  used  many  times.  The  articles  are  simply  im- 
mersed in  it  and  squeezed  out.  Hydrogen  peroxide 
is  obtainable  at  drug  stores,  and  is  very  handy  for 
whitening  small  woollen  articles.  It  is  used  too  in 
a  large  way,  but  the  practice,  to  be  economical,  must 
be  as  continuous  as  possible.  The  bath  containing 
the  peroxide  decomposes  continually,  and  if  allowed 
to  stand  a  day  or  two  loses  its  efficiency.  Make  a 
20-per-cent  solution  of  the  peroxide  and  immerse  the 
goods  therein.  After  some  time  take  out  and  air. 
Repeat  if  necessary.  By  20-per-cent  is  meant  one- 
fifth  the  bulk  of  solution  is  to  be  commercial  peroxide. 
Four  lbs.  oxalic  acid  and  4  lbs.  table  salt  dissolved  in 
50  gallons  of  water,  and  the  goods  laid  in  for  an  hour 
whitens  them  very  well.  Sulphurous  acid  gas,  the 
product  of  burning  sulphur,  is  yet  the  best  and  most 
used  bleaching  agent  for  woollen  materials.  Suspend 
the  goods  in  a  close  room,  or  a  barrel  with  a  lid,  and 
burn  the  sulphur  with  just  enough  access  of  air  to 
keep  up  the  combustion  and  the  goods  surrounded 
with  a  dense  fume.  Leave  them  suspended  over  night. 
The  goods  are  moistened  before  sulphuring;  repeat  if 
necessary.  They  may  advantageously  be  moistened 
in  suds  before  sulphuring,  and  blued  when  finished. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


95 


Wool  fibres  resist  the  action  of  acids  very  much 
better  than  cotton  or  linen.  Therefore  stains  upon 
white  woollens  may  be  treated  with  comparatively 
strong  acids  with  little  fear  of  injuring  them,  espe- 
cially if  they  be  afterward  rinsed. 

Strong  alkalies,  especially  if  hot,  attack  wool 
strongly  and  must  not  be  used  except  for  a  very  short 
contact  with  the  fabric,  and  immediately  be  rinsed 
off  or  neutralized  with  acid. 

Perspiration-stains  may  be  treated  with  strong 
solution  of  soda  and  well  rinsed.  Where  so  old  that 
the  woollen  looks  gray  or  frowzy,  acid,  especially 
sulphuric,  or  oxalic  acid  and  salt  tends  to  brighten 
it  up  after  the  soda  treatment.  Ink  may  be  removed 
by  muriatic  acid,  oxalic  acid,  etc.  Muriatic  acid 
1  part  to  2  parts  of  water,  or  oxalic  acid  may  be  pow- 
dered and  put  upon  the  moistened  stain  and  a  few 
drops  more  of  water  added  and  afterward  washed  off. 

Mould  should  be  wet  first  with  ink  and  then  the 
new  stain  and  the  mould  taken  out  with  muriatic  acid. 

Mildew,  if  gone  very  far,  is  irremovable.  It  is  a 
fungus  that  preys  upon  the  substance  of  the  wool 
itself,  alters  its  structure  so  that  it  will  not  take  dyes, 
and  finally  makes  it  so  tender  as  to  fall  away  at  the 
least  strain.  Mildew  only  attacks  damp  goods,  and 
in  a  damp  and  warm  atmosphere  proceeds  with 
remarkable  rapidity.  If  the  goods  are  at  once  dried, 
the  growth  is  stopped.  Woollen  materials  containing 
even  a  little  common  salt  will  not  mildew,  and  this 
is  extensively  practised  in  mills  to  prevent  it.  For 
remedies,  rub  common  yellow  soap  upon  the  mildew 


96 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


spot,  and  then  a  little  salt  and  starch  on  that.  Rub 
all  well  into  the  article,  and  lay  in  the  sun.  Soft  soap 
and  salt,  or  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way. 

To  Wash  Flannels. 

Boil  up  some  chipped  white  soap,  or  any  good 
quality  of  soap,  in  a  smallish  quantity  of  water,  and 
when  all  dissolved  cool  down  in  the  same  vessel  with 
cold  water,  or  pour  into  another  containing  water 
until  the  bath  is  just  as  hot  as  can  be  borne  by  the 
hands  ;  then  the  articles  are  put  in.  Do  not  rub  soap 
directly  upon  the  flannel,  nor  rub  as  in  washing  cotton 
or  linen.  Use  plenty  of  suds  and  souse  the  goods  up 
and  down  and  squeeze  the  liquor  through  them  and 
put  through  a  wringer.  The  rubber-rolled  clothes- 
wringer  is  in  every  way  far  superior  to  hand  wringing. 
After  thoroughly  rinsing  the  flannels  in  clear  tepid 
water,  hang  in  the  sun  to  dry  in  good  weather,  or 
by  the  fire,  avoiding  scorching. 

It  is  well  before  washing  flannels  to  look  them  over 
for  mud,  chewing-gum,  pockets  full  of  dust,  lint,  etc., 
and  remove  mechanically  all  that  is  possible.  If 
shrinking  is  to  be  wholly  avoided  the  articles  must 
be  boarded  or  in  some  way  kept  out  to  shape  while 
drying.  If  flannels,  before  making  up,  are  wet  out 
in  hot  water,  and  then  suddenly  cooled,  and  repressed 
after  drying  or  while  yet  damp,  they  will  not  in  wear 
and  washing  shrink  nearly  so  much.  If  flannels  in 
the  bolt  or  roll  are  put  into  cold  hard  water  and  al- 
lowed to  remain  until  they  sink,  then  taken  out 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


97 


drained  and  dried  with  the  least  handling  possible, 
they  do  not  lose  the  new  appearance,  nor  will  they 
afterward  shrink  very  much. 

To  Wash  Red  or  Scarlet  Flannel. 

Prepare  a  suds  of  soft  or  olive-oil  soap.  Four  table 
spoonfuls  of  flour  are  added  to  a  quart  of  cold  water 
and  then  boiled  for  10  minutes;  add  this  to  the  suds. 
Wash  the  red  or  scarlet  flannel  in  this  suds,  sousing 
up  and  down,  and  rinse  in  3  or  4  warm  rinse  baths. 
This  will  preserve  the  brightest  scarlets.  By  soft  soap 
is  not  meant  the  brown  home-made  article  reeking  of 
free  alkali,  but  a  good  potash  soap.  Woollen  articles 
always  look  and  feel  better  where  potash  soap  is  used, 
and  it  should  be  as  nearly  neutral  as  possible  for 
flannels.  In  lieu  of  the  flour,  bran  may  be  used,  or  a 
decoction  of  clean,  dry  hay  on  colored  goods. 

To  Keep  White  Flannels  from  Turning  Yellow. 

In  the  last  rinsing  put  a  tablespoonful  of  a  solution 
of  1  part  of  oil  of  turpentine  dissolved  in  3  parts  of 
alcohol.  The  white  woollens  after  immersion  in  this 
are  to  be  well  squeezed  out  and  hung  to  dry  in  the 
open  air.  The  theory  is  that  the  turpentine  converts 
oxygen  into  ozone  when  thus  exposed  to  the  light. 
The  smell  of  turpentine  disappears,  leaving  no  trace 
behind. 

To  Clean  White  Woollen  Shawls. 

Brush  and  shake  out  as  much  dust  as  possible. 
Spread  on  a  table,  and  sprinkle  over  it  a  liberal  quan- 
tity of  ground  white  rice  or  potato  starch  (not  wheat) ; 
7 


98 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


fold  up  the  shawl  into  a  square,  laying  the  powder 
liberally  between  each  fold.  Lay  aside  for  a  day, 
then  take  out  of  doors  and  shake,  and  brush  out  all 
the  starch.  If  the  starch  is  very  slightly  blued  the 
whiteness  of  the  shawl  is  improved.  Any  light  gray 
or  blue  shawl  can  be  treated  in  this  way  and  much 
improved,  where  any  process  of  water  washing  would 
have  felted  and  matted  the  fibres,  giving  a  most 
mangy  and  unpleasing  appearance. 

To  Treat  Soiled  and  Stained  Colored  Woollens. 

These  articles  are  of  great  variety  of  weight,  color, 
and  fineness  of  stock.  The  aim  should  be  to  cleanse 
them  with  the  least  amount  of  friction  and  rubbing, 
and  to  subject  them  to  no  sudden  and  great  changes 
of  temperature.  Also  to  not  allow  them  to  lie  in  rough 
heaps  when  wet,  but  immediately  to  open  and  spread 
them  in  the  best  manner  possible  to  conform  to  their 
proper  shape  and  to  hold  them  in  that  position  until 
quite  dry  before  proceeding  to  press  them.  They 
should  never  be  sprinkled,  but  pressed  under  a  damp 
cloth  free  of  lint.  Men's  suits  or  any  cloth  with  a  nap 
should,  before  drying,  be  brushed  with  a  good  bristle 
clothes-brush  to  lay  the  nap  all  one  way.  If  this  is 
thoroughly  well  done  the  pressing  is  a  comparatively 
easy  task. 

Some  colors  on  wool  are  unfortunately  not  fast  to 
steaming;  that  is,  when  damped  and  a  hot  flatiron 
is  applied  the  color  is  changed  or  even  destroyed. 
This  is  only  true  in  certain  light  and  delicate  colors 
for  ladies'  and  children's  wear,  and  where  the  dyer  has 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


99 


used  certain  of  these  dyes  to  shade  his  color.  There- 
fore it  is  well  to  try  a  portion  of  the  goods  in  hand 
and  see  if  they  are  changed,  and  too  if  the  heat  of 
the  iron  and  dampness  can  be  regulated  to  prevent  it. 
Many  colors  that  seem  at  first  quite  changed  will 
restore,  on  standing;  and  again  some  are  more 
affected  by  dry  than  damp  heat. 

Where  there  are  stains  upon  colored  woollens  that 
do  not  come  out  in  the  cleansing  it  may  nearly  always 
be  assumed  that  there  has  taken  place  a  removal  or 
alteration  in  the  color  that  will  require  treatment 
with  special  reagents  to  restore  them. 

To  Clean  Woollen  Clothes  Not  Much  Soiled. 

To  clean  woollen  clothes  not  much  soiled  mix  1  oz. 
sulphuric  ether  and  1  oz.  ammonia  in  1  quart  of  water. 
Rub  all  one  way  with  a  sponge  wetted  with  the  mix- 
ture to  remove  the  dirt.  The  sponge  should  be 
squeezed  out  frequently,  and  all  parts  evenly  treated. 
Recent  acid  stains  are  neutralized  by  the  ammonia, 
and  the  ether  helps  to  remove  oily  matters,  and  both 
being  completely  volatile  require  no  rinsing  out.  If 
the  article  is  very  soiled  it  will  be  necessary  to  go 
over  it  a  second  time,  using  fresh  and  clean  solution. 

To  Clean  a  Suit  of  Clothes. 

Prepare  4  ozs.  washing-soda  dissolved  in  1  quart 
hot  water,  and  add  to  it  one  fair-sized  fresh  beef  gall. 
Lay  the  garments  flat  on  a  table  or  board  and  with 
a  brush,  the  way  of  the  nap,  rub  well  the  spots  and 
most  soiled  portions  first,  and  afterward  the  whole 


100 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


garment.  Dip  the  brush  frequently  in  the  liquid 
and  when  sufficiently  rubbed  in  all  parts,  rinse  in 
clean  soft  water  until  the  rinsings  are  clear.  Pass 
through  a  clothes-wringer  if  possible,  or  press  out  the 
water  as  well  as  possible  with  the  hands,  but  do  not 
wring.  With  fulled  cloths  it  is  sometimes  permissible 
to  press  them  while  still  damp,  but  it  is  best  in  most 
cases  to  dry  thoroughly  while  the  goods  are  kept  in 
proper  shape  by  stretching,  hanging  weights,  or  in 
any  manner  holding  them  out  to  prevent  shrinking. 
Bear  in  mind  to  keep  the  nap  laid  as  straight  as 
possible  during  the  drying;  see  that  the  cloth  used 
in  pressing  is  free  from  lint,  and  the  flatiron  not  too 
hot,  and  press  the  seams  from  the  wrong  side.  The 
rest  of  the  garment  from  the  face.  Keep  the  brush 
handy,  and  lay  the  nap  if  needed  as  you  work. 

To  Clean  Wool  Carpets. 

Take  them  up  and  thoroughly  beat  and  shake  them 
in  a  good  breezy  place  to  get  out  all  dust.  Have  the 
floor  scoured  clean  and  when  dry  replace  the  carpet, 
and  if  still  much  soiled  and  dingy  go  all  over  the 
carpet  with  ox  gall  and  water.  The  secret  of  success 
is  to  clean  and  rinse  them  thoroughly  without  soaking 
them  through.  A  pint  of  fresh  ox  gall  is  put  into  a  pail 
of  clean  soft  water  and  another  pail  of  clean  water 
set  handy.  With  a  brush  rub  up  a  lather  upon  about 
a  square  yard  of  the  carpet  by  dipping  the  brush  in 
the  ox  gall  and  scrubbing  not  too  hard,  but  with  just 
the  movement  that  raises  a  lather,  but  does  not 
remove  fibre  from  the  carpet.   Now  with  a  soft  cloth 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


or  large  sponge,  not  too  wet,  remove  the  lather, 
aiming  to  get  it  by  frequent  wringing  out  of  the  sponge 
in  clear  fresh  water.  After  all  is  done  open  the 
windows  and  the  carpet  will  soon  dry  out.  Any  par- 
ticularly dirty  spots  should  be  rubbed  with  strong  gall 
solution,  only  \  water.  After  drying,  if  grease-spots 
show  up,  pulverize  and  mix  equal  parts  of  magnesia 
and  fuller's  earth.  Make  into  a  paste  with  boiling 
hot  water  and  apply  to  the  spots  as  hot  as  possible. 
After  drying  brush  off.  It  is  best  usually  to  let  this 
mixture  be  on  over  night  and  until  quite  dry.  This 
operation  is  laborious,  but  the  results  are  good.  Soap 
suds  and  ox  gall  may  be  used,  but  it  is  not  nearly  so 
easy  to  remove,  and  any  soapy  residuum  catches  dust 
and  soon  becomes  soiled  again.  Ox  gall  brightens 
the  color  of  the  carpet,  especially  greens.  Rugs  and 
stair  carpets  can  be  laid  across  a  table  after  beating, 
to  remove  the  dust,  and  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

Any  wool,  silk,  or  worsted  article  not  too  large, 
that  admits  being  wet,  may  be  most  efficiently 
cleaned  as  follows: 

To  a  suitable  sized  tub  or  vessel  partly  filled  with 
water  add  2  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  goods  of 
sal-soda  and  an  equal  amount  of  ammonia.  With 
coarse  goods  and  fast  colors  the  sal-soda  and  ammonia 
may  be  doubled  or  trebled.  Pour  now  into  the  water 
a  solution  of  soap  in  carbon  tetrachloride.  This 
article  may  be  purchased  under  the  name  of  tetrapole 
from  Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.,  and  is  most 
valuable.  It  is  entirely  neutral,  will  not  injure  colors 
or  the  most  delicate  or  sensitive  skin,  is  miscible  with 

  i  ' 

l'    4    !  '  3  3  3         3  3         '        3         3  3  3       3     3  3    ^     3  3 

l 


102 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


cold  water  in  all  proportions,  and  as  a  remover  of 
grease  has  no  equal.  The  quantity  to  be  used  de- 
pends upon  the  condition  of  the  goods,  and  a  trial 
will  determine  if  enough  has  been  added  to  the  bath. 
Excess  does  no  harm.  If  very  large  or  bad  grease- 
spots  appear,  concentrated  tetrapole  may  be  applied 
to  them,  without  fear  of  injury,  before  or  after  they 
have  been  in  the  bath.  Spots  of  grease  can  be  thus 
rinsed  out  without  wetting  the  garment  throughout. 
The  only  precaution  is  to  add  the  tetrapole  to  cold 
water  first,  and  if  warm  water  is  wished,  add  it  later. 
Adding  tetrapole  to  hot  water  causes  a  loss  of  the 
volatile  carbon  tetrachloride.  Cold  water,  or  at  most, 
warm  water,  is  all  that  is  needed,  and  the  odor  is 
quickly  lost  on  drying.  An  equal  money  value  of 
tetrapole  will  do  as  much  work  as  soap.  The  labor 
and  time  are  shortened,  and  above  all  spots  come 
more  easily  out  of  the  goods.  The  formation  of  lime 
and  magnesia  soaps  in  the  bath  and  upon  the  goods 
is  in  great  measure  avoided  and  the  goods  feel  softer 
and  keep  clean  longer  than  if  washed  with  soap. 

To  Clean  Woollen  Stockings  and  Hose. 

Boards  made  to  fit  the  stockings  and  hose  are 
almost  a  necessity  where  first-class  work  is  to  be 
done,  that  by  drawing  the  articles  one  by  one  upon 
them  when  the  washing  and  rinsing  is  finished  they 
may  keep  their  original  size  and  shape.  White  woollen 
socks  for  laboring  men,  and  indigo  blue  articles  of 
footwear  shrink  and  thicken  very  fast  in  the  ordinary 
way  of  washing  and  drying.   Never  rub  soap  directly 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


103 


upon  the  stockings.  Where  they  are  very  soiled  two 
soap  baths  are  provided,  the  first  very  soapy,  into 
which  the  stockings  are  best  put  one  by  one,  but  may 
be  thrust  under  several  at  a  time  and  lifted  almost 
at  once.  Drain  and  squeeze  just  so  they  do  not  drip, 
finish  the  washing  in  the  second  soap  bath,  avoiding 
rubbing,  but  by  an  effort  squeeze  the  soapy  liquid 
through  their  substance,  and  rinse  well  in  water  of 
the  same  temperature  as  the  soap  bath. 

To  Clean  Woollen  Underwear. 

Boards  for  these  are  very  necessary  if  their  shape 
and  comfort  and  good  appearance  are  cared  for. 
Ammonia  in  the  soapy  bath  tends  to  fluff  and  keep 
them  soft  and  easy  to  free  from  soap  in  the  rinsing. 
Stains  from  perspiration,  contact  with  leather,  but- 
tons, etc.,  may  be  touched  with  quite  sharp-tasted 
muriatic  acid,  and  rinsed,  or  powdered  oxalic  acid 
and  salt.  Colored  underwear  must  be  treated  pretty 
carefully  that  the  spot  may  not  be  worse.  Perspira- 
tion turns  cochineal-red  shirts  a  dirty  faded  blue 
that  is  helped  by  acids. 

To  Remove  Paint. 

Paint,  when  fresh,  washes  out  as  readily  as  any 
grease-spot.  As  it  ages  and  oxidizes  it  becomes  more 
and  more  difficult  to  soften  and  remove  it.  Paint- 
spots  on  very  delicate  colors,  when  old,  will  require 
treatment  calculated  to  remove  the  color  along  with 
the  paint.  Oil  the  spot  and  rub  the  oil  in  patiently, 
striving  to  blend  the  spot  with  the  oil.   If  the  spot  is 


104 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


very  old  allow  to  lie  with  the  oil  upon  it  for  several 
days,  rubbing  occasionally  to  see  if  the  paint  is  soft- 
ening. A  few  drops  of  turpentine,  kerosene,  or  any 
solvent  for  greasy  matters  may  be  added  and  worked 
in.  Old  lead  paint  is  very  persistent.  Finally,  wash 
out  like  a  fresh  grease-spot.  Large  quantities  of  such 
materials,  like  paint  and  tar  clips  from  wool-sorting 
plants,  are  treated  as  follows: 

Weigh  up  the  material  to  be  treated,  and  for  every 
5  lbs.  of  it  weigh  off  1  oz.  of  caustic  soda,  which  dis- 
solve and  add  to  a  tub  of  sufficient  size  to  hold  the 
batch.  Crowd  the  material  down  under  the  water 
and  mix  by  poling.  Allow  to  stand  for  several  days 
in  the  cold,  poling  up  occasionally,  and  testing  the 
spots  of  paint  until  they  spread  out  under  the  fingers 
to  a  smear,  then  wash  the  whole  in  the  usual  way  in 
machines  or  hand  tubs.  Tar  is  more  resistant  than 
paint,  if  old.  The  writer  is  of  opinion,  after  many 
experiments,  that  when  tar  has  weathered  enough  to 
become  brittle,  it  is  quite  hopeless  to  try  to  remove  it. 
When  fresh  it  rubs  up  with  oil  and  will  wash  out. 
The  preparation  of  soap  dissolved  in  carbon  tetra- 
chloride is  most  excellent  for  removing  paint  when 
fresh,  or  when  softened  by  oil,  and  preserves  the  color 
of  the  article  more  fully  than  soap  and  water.  Var- 
nish is  treated  same  as  for  paint. 

To  Restore  the  Lustre  to  Woollen  Cloths  Removed 
by  Washing. 

Brush  the  cloth  over  the  way  of  the  nap  with  a 
cloth-brush  wetted  with  very  weak  gum  water.  Lay 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


105 


over  it  a  piece  of  heavy  glazed  paper  or  sized  cloth 
(the  paper  is  best),  and  apply  a  weight,  or  put  in  a 
screw-press  until  dry.  Heated  press-plates  are  used 
in  a  large  way  for  this  purpose,  alternated  with  folds 
of  cloth  and  paper  until  several  feet  in  height,  then 
a  powerful  screw-press  is  brought  down  upon  it  for 
some  time.  This  is  repeated  to  bring  what  was  the 
edge  of  the  folds  to  the  centre.  It  often  happens  in 
removing  a  spot  or  stain  from  woollens  the  lustre  goes 
with  it.  The  treatment  with  gum  water  after  brush- 
ing the  nap  level  and  the  right  way  will  quite  restore  it. 

To  Restore  the  Nap  on  Cloth. 

Where  the  nap  seems  to  be  worn  away  and  the 
cloth  still  has  a  good  body,  the  nap  may  be  restored 
by  soaking  the  cloth  thoroughly  and  laying  on  a 
smooth  board.  Then  with  a  half-worn  hatter's  card, 
a  well-soaked  teasel  burr,  or  even  a  cockle  burr,  or 
thistle-head,  scratch  up  a  new  nap.  Brush  finally 
the  right  way  of  the  cloth  with  or  without  gum  water 
and  press.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  overdo  this 
work. 

To  Wash  Woollen  Shawls. 

Make  a  good  suds  as  for  flannels  and  to  it  add  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  spirits  of  turpentine  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  ammonia.  Souse  the  shawl  up  and  down 
and  press  out  and  through  it  until  apparently  the 
suds  has  done  its  work.  Rinse  in  plenty  of  clear 
water,  warm  to  be  comfortable  to  the  hand,  and  if 
delicate  colors  likely  to  run  are  present,  rinse  in 


106 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


another  water  containing  salt.  Fold  between  two 
sheets  so  that  the  folds  of  shawl  are  entirely  separate, 
and  finally  press  with  a  cool  iron.  Shawls  so  treated 
look  very  much  refreshed.  Fringes  may  be  beaten 
with  any  smooth  article  like  the  back  of  a  hairbrush, 
avoiding  to  strike  forcibly  enough  to  detach  the  fringe. 

To  Clean  Colored  Woollen  Dresses. 

Four  ozs.  potash  (or  soft)  soap,  4  ozs.  honey,  the 
white  of  an  egg,  and  4  tablespoonfuls  of  gin.  Mix  all 
well  together  and  add  just  enough  water  to  have  it 
work  well  with  the  brush.  Such  parts  of  the  dress  as 
cannot  be  laid  flat  should  be  ripped  apart,  then  with 
a  rather  stiff  brush,  on  a  smooth  table,  scour  the 
whole  thoroughly.  Afterward  rinse  thoroughly  in 
cold  water,  leave  to  drain  well  toward  the  narrowest 
point,  and  while  yet  quite  damp  iron  with  a  piece  of 
muslin  laid  over  the  dress.  Keep  the  dress  quite 
smooth  during  the  brushing,  and  brush  as  evenly  as 
possible  the  way  of  the  cloth,  which  is  always  down 
(toward  the  feet)  when  worn. 

To  Wash  Colored  Woollens. 

Colored  woollens  may  be  well  washed  in  a  solution 
of  one  part  of  waterglass  in  fifty  parts  of  water.  The 
bath  should  be  100  to  120  degrees  Fahr. 

Boil  2  lbs.  soap  shavings  to  a  paste  with  water,  and 
add  6  to  7  gallons  warm  water,  1  tablespoonful  spirits 
of  turpentine  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  ammonia,  and 
mix  thoroughly.  Have  the  bath  at  about  110°  Fahr. 
and  put  the  goods  to  soak  for  1  hour.   Have  the  tub 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


107 


covered,  while  soaking,  and  then  souse  the  goods  up 
and  down  to  work  the  liquor  through  them  and  rinse 
in  fresh  warm  water.  The  soap  liquor  may  be  re- 
heated, and  about  half  as  much  turpentine  and  am- 
monia added  and  used  over  again.  Wash  the  least 
soiled  articles  first.  Observe  when  hanging  the  goods 
to  dry  to  have  them  as  nearly  as  possible  pulled  and 
stretched  to  their  proper  shape. 

To  Wash  Flannels  and  Woollen  Articles. 

Shave  a  little  white  soap  into  a  pail,  pour  water 
boiling  hot  upon  it  to  dissolve  it,  and  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  ammonia.  Pour  the  hot  suds  upon  the 
flannels  in  a  tub  and  pole  them  up  with  a  stick,  as 
the  suds  is  too  hot  for  the  hands.  Squeeze  out  through 
a  wringer  and  pour  upon  them  a  fresh  suds  with  only 
one-half  the  soap.  Have  this  suds  as  hot  as  can  be 
borne  and  rub  the  soiled  spots,  but  never  rub  fresh 
soap  on  them.  Wring  into  clear  hot  water  containing 
just  a  little  ammonia  for  the  rinse  bath;  wring 
through  the  wringer  as  dry  as  possible  and  dry 
quickly.  Never  scrub  flannels  on  a  washboard,  nor 
rinse  in  cold  water,  as  either  will  cause  them  to  shrink. 
Never  use  soda  or  bleaching-powder  on  flannels. 
When  they  are  dry,  stretch  them  and  rub  all  over  with 
a  clean  rough  flannel,  to  keep  them  fluffy  and  soft. 

To  Iron  Flannels. 

Flannels  are  best  if  not  ironed,  but  where  thought 
necessary  to  do  so,  lay  the  dry  flannel  upon  the 
ironing-board,  covering  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  iron 


108 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


over  this.  Use  a  moderately  hot  iron  and  press 
heavily. 

To  Wash  Woollens. 

Separate  the  white  from  the  colored  woollens.  For 
white  woollen  articles  make  a  very  hot  suds,  to  which 
add  a  liberal  quantity  of  powdered  borax,  or  lump 
borax  dissolved  in  boiling  water.  Plenty  of  borax 
gives  to  white  woollens  a  softness  and  looseness  of 
texture  and  a  brilliancy  of  whiteness  which  frequently 
they  do  not  possess  when  new.  For  a  very  choice 
article,  where  shrinking  is  to  be  avoided  and  wanted 
to  look  the  best  possible,  pass  it  once  through  the 
wringer  when  the  dirt  is  washed  out  and  from  very 
hot  rinse  water,  then  repeatedly  through  the  wringer 
with  soft  dry  drilling  or  a  dry  sheet  around  it.  After 
several  wringings  in  the  dry  cloth  the  flannel  will  feel 
almost  dry,  and  finish  the  drying  in  a  warm  place  in 
the  shade.  For  the  colored  woollens  add  to  the  suds 
sal-ammoniac.  Prepare  two  tubs  by  dissolving  2\  ozs. 
yellow  soap  in  every  2  gallons  of  nearly  boiling-hot 
water  in  the  first  tub.  Have  this  tub  pretty  full  and 
take  from  it  for  the  second  tub  and  dilute  with  water 
not  so  hot  until  it  is  about  half  as  strong  with  soap 
as  the  first,  and  add  to  this  second  tub  one  table- 
spoonful  of  spirits  of  sal-ammoniac  for  every  gallon. 
Take  the  smaller  and  cleaner  articles  first,  just  a  few, 
say,  three  or  four  pairs  of  socks  or  equal  bulk  of  other 
goods,  and  push  them  down  and  about  with  a  clean 
stick.  If  the  stick  has  a  flat  square  piece  upon  the 
end  it  will  aid  in  squeezing  the  articles  on  and  against 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


109 


the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  tub.  When  sufficiently 
worked,  squeeze  as  dry  as  possible,  and  into  the  tub 
containing  sal-ammoniac.  Work  in  this  and  look  for 
spots,  which  rub  out,  and  wring  by  a  clothes-wringer. 
Pull  the  garments  as  well  as  possible  into  shape. 
Undershirts  should  be  stretched  in  the  width,  espe- 
cially the  sleeves,  which  tend  to  become  slim  and  long. 
In  hanging  on  the  line,  hang  them  to  favor  the  true 
shape;  for  instance,  with  jackets  and  undershirts,  hang 
only  crosswise,  collar  to  the  right  and  tail  to  the  left. 

To  economize  heat,  water,  soap,  etc.,  it  is  of  im- 
portance in  washing  woollens  that  but  few  articles 
be  handled  at  a  time.  It  is  also  very  important  that 
the  suds  be  kept  hot,  or  be  reheated.  A  good  plan 
is  to  replenish  the  first  tub  from  the  second  and 
adding  fresh  hot  suds  to  replenish  and  some  sal- 
ammoniac  or  borax,  according  to  whether  the  goods 
be  colored  or  white.  Even  suds  that  is  almost  black 
can  be  further  utilized  by  allowing  to  settle  and 
pouring  off  the  upper  portion,  and  using  for  first 
washing  of  coarse  colored  cloths,  rugs,  etc. 

To  Clean  Carpets. 

To  Sweep  a  Carpet. 

Before  applying  the  broom,  have  at  hand  some 
material  to  scatter  upon  the  carpet  to  catch  and 
retain  the  dust,  as  sawdust,  tea-leaves,  salt,  meal,  etc. 
If  also  the  broom  is  dipped  in  soapsuds  once  a  week 
it  becomes  tough  and  .  pliable  and  will  not  cut  the 
carpet.     It  is  best  to  scatter  the  slightly  damp 


110 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


material  over  but  a  yard  or  two  of  carpet  at  a  time, 
and  sweep  from  one  corner  of  the  room  where  it 
is  not  likely  to  be  so  dirty.  After  sweeping  along 
a  few  feet  take  up  the  bulk  of  the  sweepings  and 
scatter  a  fresh  portion.  When  across  the  room,  return 
on  the  next  breadth,  and  so  on  until  the  room  is 
finished,  moving  as  best  you  can  the  furniture.  The 
tannin  of  the  tea-leaves,  oak-sawdust,  also  the  salt, 
tend  to  brighten  many  colors.  A  pint  of  ox  gall  to 
a  pail  of  water  is  an  excellent  thing  to  apply  to  spots 
on  a  carpet.  Work  with  a  brush  and  sponge  off  with 
clear  water,  having  the  sponge  as  dry  as  possible. 

To  Clean  Chamois  Skin. 

Chamois  skin  (wash  leather)  requires  to  be  kept 
clean,  soft,  and  free  from  any  hard  particles  that  will 
scratch  varnished  surfaces  over  which  it  is  rubbed. 
Chamois  leather  washes  like  any  fine  piece  of  woollen 
cloth,  except  that  the  leather  is  injured  by  hot  water 
if  beyond  a  heat  that  the  hand  can  comfortably  bear. 
They  must  also  be  kept  from  drying  stiff  by  having 
the  last  water  quite  soapy  or  by  putting  a  little 
glycerine  in  the  water  from  which  they  are  last  taken, 
and  before  quite  dry  be  pulled  and  worked  until 
quite  flexible  and  soft. 

To  Remove  Roofing-Tar  from  the  Hands  and  Gar- 
ments. 

Roofing-tar  (coal  tar  and  asphalt)  is  not  in  the  least 
affected  by  washing  with  soap  and  alkalies,  even  when 
fresh.   If  rubbed,  however,  with  tetrapole  until  soft- 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


Ill 


ened,  which  is  quickly  accomplished,  it  will  rinse  out 
with  cold  water.  Rubbing  up  with  oil  until  thoroughly 
incorporated  with  it  will  render  tar  of  this  sort  re- 
movable with  soap  and  water.  Kerosene  softens  it, 
and  with  skimmed  milk  and  soap  it  comes  out  fairly 
well. 

To  Wash  Silk. 

The  cleansing  of  silk  is  a  very  nice  operation. 
Many  of  the  colors  are  liable  to  be  altered  or  removed 
by  washing  in  hot  suds.  Wherever  possible  a  small 
piece  of  the  goods  should  first  be  operated  upon  in 
order  that  the  solidity  of  the  color  may  be  determined, 
and  the  general  effect  noted  of  the  menstruum  em- 
ployed for  washing.  No  person  should  ever  wring 
or  crush  a  piece  of  silk  when  wet,  for  the  creases  thus 
made  may  remain  forever,  especially  if  the  silk  be 
thick  and  hard.  A  good  way  to  cleanse  silk  is  to 
spread  it  upon  a  clean,  smooth  board  and  brush  with 
a  rather  stiff  bristle  brush  dipped  in  a  rather  stiff 
solution  of  good  neutral  soap.  Nap  is  not  usually 
present  upon  silk;  still  it  is  best  to  brush  mostly  in 
one  direction,  as  it  is  easier  to  see  what  progress  is 
being  made,  to  note  the  general  effect  of  the  work, 
to  observe  if  spots  are  coming  out,  and  the  evenness 
of  the  work.  The  soap  should  be  removed  by  brushing 
both  sides  with  clean,  cold,  soft  water  rather  copiously 
and  soaking  up  excess  with  a  clean  soft  sponge.  The 
sponge  may  be  dipped  finally  in  alum  water  and,  not 
too  wet,  rubbed  on  the  face  of  the  silk,  to  prevent 
colors  running.  Though  all  colors  may  not  withstand 


112 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


alum,  still  1  oz.  of  alum  to  the  gallon  of  water  does 
not  alter  most  colors  noticeably;  best  try  it  on  a  small 
piece  first. 

To  Clean  Silks  and  Silk  Unions  Having  Delicate 

Colors. 

Peel  and  grate  raw  potatoes  to  a  fine  pulp.  Add 
one  pint  of  water  to  each  pound  of  potatoes.  Pass  the 
liquid  through  a  rather  coarse  sieve  or  cloth  into  a 
vessel  and  allow  the  starch  to  subside.  Pour  off  the 
clear  for  use.  Spread  the  article  upon  a  table  which 
is  covered  with  a  sheet,  and  sponge  the  fabric  until 
the  dirt  is  removed,  then  rinse  several  times  in  clear 
cold  water.  The  colors  will  not  be  injured.  Prints 
can  be  successfully  treated  in  this  way.  Avoid 
wringing  the  fabric  unless  through  a  wringer. 

To  Wash  Silk  Ribbons. 

Silk,  Damask,  Satin,  and  Brocade  Ribbons. 

Rub  the  materials  with  a  yolk  of  egg  or  Venetian 
soap,  wash  them  in  tepid  water,  rinse,  and  dry.  Next 
dissolve  good  gum  tragacanth  (gum  dragon)  in  equal 
parts  good  white  vinegar  and  soft  water.  Strain  the 
solution  through  a  cloth.  Dip  the  fabric  in  the  gum 
water,  very  thin,  and  brush  out  the  bulk  of  it  as  far 
as  possible.  Spread  the  ribbon  flat  and  dry  quickly. 
Iron  when  quite  dry.  The  gum  water  should  be 
about  half  the  consistency  of  bandoline  for  the  hair. 
Gum  dragon  swells  enormously,  and  a  very  little  of 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


113 


it  suffices.  Soak  the  gum  over  night,  warm  up  in  the 
same  water,  and  add  the  vinegar.  Don't  be  afraid 
of  getting  too  thin.  Keeps  well,  and  if  used  to  moisten 
the  hair  causes  it  to  keep  its  position  much  better 
than  when  the  hair  is  done  in  the  ordinary  way. 

To  Wash  White  Silk  Stockings. 

Wash  in  the  ordinary  way  with  good  soap  lather 
and  rinse  well  to  remove  the  soap.  Then  hold  them 
over  the  fumes  of  burning  sulphur,  stretching  the 
stockings  so  that  the  fumes  get  to  every  part  of  them. 
Turn  the  stockings  inside  out  and  draw  up  on  a  frame 
and  smooth  with  a  glass  roller  while  still  moist,  and 
dry  in  the  sun. 

To  Wash  Silk  Pocket  Handkerchiefs. 

Soak  the  handkerchiefs  over  night.  Any  containing 
snuff  should  be  soaked  by  themselves,  and  after 
rinsing  put  with  the  others.  Wash  in  lukewarm 
water.  Have  a  rather  concentrated  solution  of  soap, 
as  neutral  as  can  be  obtained,  in  a  basin;  work  the 
handkerchiefs  in  this  one  at  a  time  to  soap  them, 
and  then  wash  in  the  warm  water.  They  may  wait 
to  be  rinsed  all  together.  If  yellow  or  stained  they 
should  be  sulphured.  Put  sulphur  in  an  iron  pot,  or 
melt  and  dip  into  the  melted  sulphur  rags  put  in  a 
split  stick.  The  latter  can  be  thrust  into  the  ground 
and  ignited  and  a  barrel  containing  the  suspended 
handkerchiefs  turned  over  them.  Sulphur  for  several 
hours. 

8 


114 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Renovate  Black  Silk  Grape. 

Skim  milk  and  water  with  a  very  little  glue  or 
gelatine  in  it  made  scalding  hot  will  restore  old  black 
rusty  crape.  If  clapped  between  the  hands  and  pulled 
gently  till  dry  it  will  look  as  good  as  new. 

To  Wash  China-Crape  Scarfs. 

If  the  fabric  is  good  it  may  be  washed  as  frequently 
as  need  be  with  no  diminution  of  its  beauty,  even  if 
various  shades  of  green  and  other  colors  appear  in  it. 
Make  a  strong  lather  with  boiling  water  and  shaved 
soap,  let  it  cool,  and  wash  the  scarf  quickly  by  dip- 
ping in  the  lather,  squeezing  in  the  hand  and  washing 
out  in  clean  water  just  warm  to  the  hand.  Rinse 
in  water  containing  a  handful  of  salt,  squeeze  as  dry 
as  possible,  and  pin  to  the  line  at  the  extreme  edges 
so  that  no  part  is  folded  upon  itself.  Dry  as  quickly 
as  possible. 

To  Wash  Black  Lace  Veils. 

Any  article  of  black  lace  can  be  successfully  washed 
in  this  manner.  Mix  J  pint  beef  gall  with  J  pint  hot 
water,  have  as  hot  as  the  hand  will  bear.  Thrust 
the  veil  into  the  mixture  with  the  hand  and  open  and 
shut  the  hand  around  the  veil  repeatedly.  Rinse  in 
two  portions  of  fresh  water,  the  last  one  very  blue 
with  bluing.  After  drying,  dampen  with  very  weak 
glue  water,  bandoline,  or  gelatine  water.  Clap  it 
between  the  hands;  open  and  pin  the  edge  very 
nicely  to  the  line.  When  dry  iron  on  the  wrong  side 
over  a  linen  ironing-sheet. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


115 


Silk  Ribbons  Having  Gold  or  Silver  Threads. 

Boil  the  ribbons  in  honey-water  to  protect  the 
colors;  then  wash  in  solution  of  ox  gall  and  soap; 
manipulate  the  ribbons  with  one  hand  while  pouring 
the  soap  and  gall  solution  over  them  with  the  other 
hand.  After  washing,  dip  in  clean  gum  water, 
either  gum  Arabic  or  gum  dragon,  and  press  between 
mangle  rollers.  Fasten  some  weight  to  one  end  of 
the  ribbons  and  hang  to  dry;  the  quicker  they  dry 
the  better  they  will  look. 

To  Clean  and  Revive  Black  and  Other  Silks. 

Cut  an  old  kid  glove  in  fine  pieces  and  pour  a  pint 
of  boiling  water  upon  it.  Cover,  and  let  stand  all 
night  in  a  warm  place.  Boil  it  up  again  in  the  morning 
and  strain  it,  and  add  \  tablespoonful  of  alcohol. 
Use  the  warm  solution,  and  sponge  the  silk  on  the 
right,  or  face,  side,  and  press  immediately  on  the 
back  side.  For  white  or  light  silk  use  a  white  or 
pale  glove.  A  flannel  dipped  in  gin  is  good  to  rub 
and  restore  all  dark-colored  silks. 

Black  Reviver  for  Silk. 

Bruised  galls  4  ozs.,  1  oz.  each  of  extract  of  log- 
wood, sumac  leaves,  copperas,  and  filings  of  iron  free 
of  grease.  Put  the  galls,  logwood,  and  sumac  into 
a  quart  of  good  vinegar  and  keep  in  a  warm  place 
24  hours.  Then  add  the  crushed  copperas  and  iron 
filings,  and  let  stand  for  one  week  with  occasional 
stirring.  Keep  in  well-stoppered  bottles.  It  may  be 
applied  to  faded  spots  with  a  soft  sponge,  on  the  end 


116  THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING  , 

of  a  wire  and  attached  to  the  cork.  It  is  also  very 
good  for  restoring  the  black  color  of  leather.  Remove 
all  grease  from  the  leather  before  applying.  For  silk 
not  much  faded  put  \  pint  of  the  reviver  in  |  gallon 
of  water  and  a  cupful  of  ox  gall.  Make  hot,  and 
sponge  the  silk  not  too  wet,  and  dry  and  smooth 
with  an  iron. 

To  Wash  Black  Taffeta. 

Wash  in  three  baths  containing  Venetian  soap. 
Rinse  and  stiffen  with  gum  Arabic  water  and  a  little 
vinegar,  or  rub  the  fabric  with  a  sponge  dipped  in 
beer.  Wring  between  cloths  and  iron  on  the  wrong 
side. 

To  Wash  White  Taffeta. 

Soak  one  hour  in  warm  water.  Make  a  2-gallon 
solution  containing  2  ozs.  Venetian  soap  (or  any 
good  soap)  and  a  double  handful  of  bran.  Rinse, 
sulphur,  and  stiffen  by  passing  through  a  very  thin 
solution  of  gum  Arabic  or  gum  dragon  colored  slightly 
blue  with  Saxony  blue,  or  any  good  bluing,  mangle 
between  two  cloths,  and  afterward  brush  the  surface 
lightly.  Venetian  soap  presumably  contains  some 
Venice  turpentine. 

A  Preparation  of  Soap  for  Washing  Silk. 

150  oz.  soap, 
150  oz.  ox  gall, 

16  oz.  honey, 

16  oz.  white  sugar, 

25  oz.  Venice  turpentine. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


117 


Melt  all  together,  and  pour  into  a  mould  lined  with 
a  damp  cloth.  The  soap  will  become  hard  and  ready 
for  use  in  24  hours. 

Ox  Gall. 

This  is  the  contents  of  the  gall-bladder  of  beef  cattle, 
and  may  be  obtained  from  slaughter-houses.  It  is 
best  when  fresh,  but  several  galls  may  be  procured 
when  convenient  or  ordered  sent  to  the  house,  and 
the  contents  may  be  emptied  out  and  treated,  to 
preserve  them.  One  pint  ox  gall  and  2  ozs.  of  pow- 
dered alum  are  boiled  together,  to  which  add  2  ozs. 
common  salt.  Let  the  liquor  settle,  and  add  a  few 
drops  essence  of  lemon.  Pour  off  into  a  bottle  and 
cork  tightly;  or — 

Stir  45  parts  ox  gall  with  equal  quantity  of  hot 
water,  and  add  2  ozs.  alum.  Stir  the  mixture  for  J 
hour,  and  when  cold  filter;  the  filtrate  is  colorless; 
add  to  this  J  of  its  bulk  of  strongest  alcohol,  let 
stand  2  days,  and  pour  off  the  clear  for  use.  The 
crystals  of  alum,  etc.,  remaining  are  of  no  value;  or — 

Empty  the  gall  into  a  bottle,  put  in  a  handful  of 
salt,  a  teacupful  of  gall  to  5  gallons  of  water  will 
prevent  colored  articles  from  fading. 

A  Scouring  Liquid. 

22  gals,  hot  water,  in  which  dissolve 
15  lbs.  white  Marseilles  soap, 
10  lbs.  carbonate  of  potash, 
10  lbs.  extract  of  Panama. 
In  another  vessel  mix  15  qts.  ox  gall  or  sheep  gall, 


118 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


3  pts.  ammonia.  Take  J  of  the  soap  mixture  and  § 
of  the  gall  mixture  and  add  some  aromatic  essence. 
Heat,  let  cool,  and  add  3  gallons  90-per-cent  alcohol. 
Decant  and  filter. 

To  Clean  Silks. 

Washing  silks  in  the  way  that  linen  is  washed  spoils 
them,  no  matter  how  carefully  it  is  done,  and  there- 
fore should  never  be  done  unless  absolutely  necessary. 
It  is  far  better  to  lay  them  on  a  flat  surface  and 
sponge  them  with  soapy  water  and  rub  with  dry 
cloths  and  iron  on  the  wrong  side.  If  the  article  is 
of  such  shape  that  it  is  inconvenient  to  iron  the 
wrong  side,  it  may  be  done  on  the  right  side  with 
thin  paper  laid  over  to  prevent  glazing.  If  faded, 
sponge  over  with  alcohol,  or  any  reviver  of  colors 
before  pressing  with  the  iron. 

Bullock's  gall  is  a  universal  reviver  of  colors  and 
one  of  the  best  detergents.  Where  it  is  deemed  best 
to  wash  the  silk  pass  it  through  and  through  the  soap 
liquor,  working  the  more  soiled  places  and  spots 
with  a  squeeze  of  the  hand.  For  white  silk  there 
should  be  employed  a  white  soap  containing  very 
little  free  alkali,  well  rinsed,  and  stretched  with  pins 
to  dry.  White  may  be  bleached  with  alcohol  con- 
taining ^  its  bulk  of  muriatic  acid.  For  black  and 
dark-colored  silk,  best  use  no  soap,  but  sponge  with 
ox  gall  and  hot  water  equal  parts,  and  use  warm  on 
both  sides  of  the  silk.  Remove  the  gall  thoroughly 
by  sponging  with  clear,  warm,  soft  water.  Lastly, 
if  the  silk  needs  to  be  stiffened,  sponge  over  with  glue 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


119 


or  gelatine  water  on  the  wrong  side,  being  careful 
to  do  it  evenly,  and  dry  quickly.  The  glue  water 
must  be  very  thin.  Smooth  with  a  warm  iron  on 
the  wrong  side.  Rain  or  cistern  water  is  termed  soft 
water.  Usually  well  waters  contains  more  or  less  of 
lime  or  magnesia  and  other  mineral  matters,  and  are 
termed  hard  water. 

To  Bleach  White  Silk. 

The  article  to  be  bleached  must  be  first  cleansed 
from  grease  and  dirt,  and  the  process  of  cleansing 
chosen  writh  due  regard  to  the  nature  of  the  article, 
and  all  the  cleansing  agent  thoroughly  removed  by 
sponging,  rinsing,  etc.  Use  peroxide  of  hydrogen,  one 
part  of  peroxide  to  four  parts  of  water  with  or  with- 
out traces  of  ammonia  or  soda  lye.  The  silks  are 
simply  laid  in  the  liquid  to  steep  as  long  as  may  be 
necessary.  Heat  decomposes  the  liquid,  but  accel- 
erates the  bleaching;  but  never  heat  above  90°  Fahr. 
Setting  in  the  sun  is  sufficient.  The  bleaching  goes 
on  for  some  time  after  the  article  is  taken  out  of  the 
bath,  and  yet  moist;  therefore  do  not  hurry  the 
drying.  White  articles  of  wool  are  bleached  by  iden- 
tically the  same  process.  When  the  goods  have  laid 
long  enough  in  the  bath,  and  also  lain  as  long  as 
deemed  necessary  after  taking  out  of  the  bath,  rinse 
in  soft  water  and  dry. 

To  Remove  Tar-,  Grease-,  and  Oil-Stains  from  Silk. 

Rub  up  the  tar  with  fresh  oil.  Don't  rub  so  hard 
as  to  break  the  grain  of  the  silk ;  best  use  a  brush  with 


120 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


the  silk  drawn  tight  over  a  bottle.  Old  oil-  and 
grease-stains  may  well  be  treated  as  for  tar.  Linseed 
oil  stains,  if  old,  yellow  the  fabric  so  the  spot  needs 
bleaching.  When  you  have  got  the  spots  prepared, 
remove  by  brushing  with  a  tooth-brush  dipped  in  a 
solvent  for  grease.  For  very  small  spots  lay  the  silk 
over  the  end  of  a  concave-bottomed  bottle,  the  spot 
in  the  center,  and  wet  the  high  edges  with  clean 
solvent  and  work  toward  the  centre  so  as  to  have  the 
solvent  drip  through  the  centre.  Work  a  bit  with 
one  finger  end  to  cause  any  solid  matter  to  work 
through.  Endeavor  to  prevent  spreading  in  every 
way  possible. 

To  Treat  White  Cotton  Goods. 

By  far  the  larger  part  of  garments  and  other 
articles  made  for  use  in  the  form  of  cloth  are  of  white 
cotton.  White  paper  is  also  to  be  classed  under  the 
same  head.  They  are  both  nearly  pure  cellulose,  a 
vegetable  substance  composing  a  large  part  of  all 
plants,  trees,  grass,  etc.  Cellulose  may  be  considered 
as  insoluble  in  alkalies.  Cotton  goods,  uncolored, 
may  therefore  be  treated  at  any  heat  up  to  the  boiling- 
point  with  very  alkaline  solutions  without  sensibly 
affecting  their  strength  or  wearing  qualities.  Most 
forms  of  grease  and  dirt  yield  to  such  treatment 
and  come  out  in  the  boil.  It  is  always  well  in  the 
boiling  to  have  the  boiler  covered.  The  cover  holds 
the  steam  almost  to  the  exclusion  of  the  atmosphere. 
Cotton  projecting  above  the  surface  of  the  boil  is 
very  apt  to  acquire  a  stain  from  oxidation  unless  a 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


121 


cover  is  provided.  These  stains  are  usually  gray  in 
color,  though  sometimes  brown  or  brownish.  They 
are  probably  oxidation  products  same  as  the  weathered 
appearance  of  an  old  wood  house,  or  fence-rail.  The 
brownish  stains  probably  are  from  metallic  salts 
from  rusty  boilers  or  fruit  juices  (pectous  matters). 
Either  one  is  very  permanent,  and  an  ounce  of  pre- 
vention is  better  than  a  pound  of  cure.  To  remove 
chances  of  these  stains  and  to  soften  and  remove  as 
much  as  possible  of  dirty  matter,  that  might  "  boil  in," 
the  white  cotton  goods  should  be  soaked  over  night, 
wrung  out  and  rinsed  before  going  to  the  boil  and 
specially  all  stains  of  vegetable  nature,  blood,  dis- 
charges from  the  body,  removed  in  cold  or  hot  water 
free  of  alkalies  before  the  boiling  is  proceeded  with. 
Also  the  very  soiled  and  stained  things  should  have 
a  separate  boil  by  themselves.  Stains  remaining  after 
boiling  require  usually  to  be  bleached.  Very  much 
of  the  tendered  cotton  we  get  from  washer-women  and 
laundries  is  from  an  ill-advised  use  of  bleaching 
liquors  and  compounds. 

The  boiling  liquor  from  which  the  cleanest  clothes 
have  been  taken  may  be  used  again  for  articles  not 
needed  to  be  so  white,  that  have  been  sorted  out  from 
the  first  lot.  A  tablespoonful  of  turpentine,  kerosene, 
and  some  other  things  are  recommended  to  be  added 
along  with  soap  and  alkali  in  the  boiling  of  white 
clothes. 

The  " sudsing  water"  is  a  matter  of  importance. 
It  should  be  clear,  soft  water,  and  warmed  so  as  not 
to  chill  the  clothes  and  cause  loosened-up  matters 


122 


THE  DYEING   AND  CLEANING 


to  "set."  Ammonia  in  the  water,  or  borax,  is  a 
great  benefit.  The  goods  are  lifted  from  the  boiler 
with  a  pole  of  convenient  size  and  shape,  often  forked 
at  the  end  to  facilitate  getting  a  grasp  upon  the  cloths 
and  sort  of  winding  them  up  so  as  to  express  as  much 
of  the  "boil"  as  possible  and  also  to  expose  as  little 
to  the  air  as  possible,  and  transferred  with  a  dex- 
terous twist  into  (not  on  top  of)  the  sudsing  bath. 
They  may  lie  in  the  sudsing  bath  for  some  time 
without  any  ill  results,  or  until  the  next  boilerful 
has  been  got  going.  They  may  now  be  soused  up  and 
down  and  wrung  out  into  the  rinsing  water,  which 
may,  or  may  not  be  the  bluing  water.  The  writer 
considers  that  too  great  care  is  impossible  in  rinsing 
and  bluing  cotton  goods. 

Yellow  cistern  water  is  found  in  many  places.  This 
is  very  objectionable,  and  the  water  in  the  cistern 
should  be  thrown  out  and  the  cistern  cleaned  and 
provided  with  a  charcoal  filter,  which  is  a  small 
cistern  at  the  side  and  above  the  main  cistern,  and 
connecting  with  it  by  a  rather  large  conduit  protected 
by  a  screen.  The  charcoal  should  be  as  free  from  dust 
as  possible.  A  layer  of  gravel  is  laid  over  the  screen 
to  the  conduit  and  the  charcoal  placed  in  the  filtering 
cistern  as  evenly  as  possible  to  f  to  f  its  capacity. 
A  board  or  stone  is  so  placed  that  the  water  first 
strikes  it  and  is  spread  over  the  charcoal. 

Where  from  any  cause  the  water  in  the  cistern 
cannot  be  thrown  away,  it  may  be  deodorized  and 
cleared  perfectly,  making  it  even  fit  for  drinking 
purposes. 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


123 


A  saturated  solution  of  permanganate  of  potassa 
is  one  of  the  most  efficient  and  elegant  of  all  disin- 
fectants. A  teaspoonful  in  a  soup-plate  full  of  water 
placed  in  a  room  is  very  useful  to  remove  bad  odors; 
when  the  pink  color  disappears  add  more  perman- 
ganate. Crude  permanganate  of  potassa  is  sixteen 
times  cheaper  than  the  pure,  and  is  just  as  good  for 
deodorizing  purposes.  Its  solution  is  green,  but  even 
in  the  cold,  and  rapidly  on  boiling,  changes  to  pink, 
and  is  fit  for  use.  About  a  tablespoonful  per  hogshead 
is  generally  enough  to  purify  the  water  in  a  cistern. 
Even  if  an  excess  is  added  it  is  only  necessary  to  put 
a  clean  white  piece  of  wood,  or  a  cup  of  tea,  into  the 
cistern  to  remove  the  red  color.  The  small  amount  of 
potassa  remaining  in  the  cistern  (not  T^o  grain  per 
gallon)  cannot  do  any  harm. 

Bilge  water  in  boats  and  large  ships  may  be 
very  successfully  treated  with  permangana/te  of 
potassa. 

Besides  the  better  appearance  of  her  wash,  the 
housewife  can  well  afford  the  little  trouble  and  ex- 
pense of  purifying  the  cistern  water.  It  is  very  dis- 
agreeable to  think  of  that  putrid  smell  so  often  met 
with  in  kitchens,  and  from  purely  hygienic  motives, 
all  that  is  possible  ought  to  be  done  to  keep  a  water 
supply  clean  and  sweet. 

From  a  variety  of  causes,  boiled  cottons  acquire  a 
faint  yellow  tint;  especially  is  this  true  where  not 
well  soaked  and  rinsed  or  from  having  unbleached 
cotton  boiled  along  with  the  white  goods.  The  effect 
of  " bluing"  is  to  overcome  this,  and  if  a  bluing  is 


124 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


selected  having  a  reddish  shade  of  blue,  the  result 
is  more  perfectly  to  restore  the  goods  to  a  white  con- 
dition. Bluing  must  be  very  carefully  dissolved  and 
thoroughly  mixed  with  the  bluing  water,  and  the 
goods  put  in  well  opened  out  and  the  bluing-tub 
never  crowded  with  materials  to  be  blued.  After 
bluing  they  should  be  wrung  so  dry  as  not  to  drain 
when  hung,  and  the  drying  done  as  quickly  as  possible 
in  the  open  air. 

To  Fold  Clothes  from  the  Line. 

Fold  the  fine  articles  and  roll  them  in  a  towel; 
then  fold  the  rest,  turning  them  right  side  out.  Lay 
the  colored  articles  separate  from  the  rest;  sheets 
and  table  linen  should  be  shaken  and  folded.  Starched 
things  are  very  apt  to  mildew,  and  the  other  un- 
starched things  may  mildew  if  left  to  lie  too  long. 

To  Iron  Clothes. 

The  ironing  of  the  every-week  wash  may  be  said 
to  be  a  matter  too  simple  to  need  any  elucidation, 
and  that  plenty  of  good  hot  "flats"  and  elbow  grease 
are  the  prime  requisites.  However,  in  ironing  a  shirt, 
first  do  the  back,  then  the  sleeves,  then  the  collar 
and  bosom,  and  finally  the  front.  Iron  calicoes  gen- 
erally on  the  right  side,  as  they  keep  clean  for  a 
longer  time.  In  ironing  a  frock,  first  do  the  waist, 
then  the  sleeves  and  then  the  skirt.  Keep  the  skirt 
rolled  while  ironing  the  other  parts,  and  set  a  chair 
for  the  sleeves  while  ironing  the  skirt,  unless  an  iron- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


125 


ing-board  is  used.  Silk  should  be  ironed,  if  at  alb 
on  the  wrong  side,  while  quite  damp,  and  with  a  very 
moderate  iron,  or  the  colors  will  "  steam  out."  Al- 
ways iron  lace  and  needlework  on  the  wrong  side 
and  put  them  away  as  soon  as  dry.  Damp  velvet  on 
the  back  and  draw  it  around  the  iron  set  upon  end, 
holding  it  straight. 

Scorched  Linen. 

It  often  happens  that  things  get  scorched  in  the 
ironing,  and  rendered  thereby  very  unsightly,  if  not 
permanently  injured.  To  restore  scorched  linen  is  a 
matter  of  great  difficulty,  and  where  the  scorch  ac- 
tually consumes  the  thread,  is  hopeless.  Slight 
scorches  often  disappear  in  subsequent  washings,  but 
this  may  be  hastened  and  greatly  aided  by  applying 
the  following  composition: 

Beat  two  large  onions  to  a  pulp  in  a  mortar,  and 
express  the  juice;  add  to  this  2  ozs.  pulverized  fuller's 
earth,  or  any  clean  dry  clay,  \  oz.  scraped  soap,  and 
1  oz.  dry  hen's  droppings,  and  \  pint  of  strong  vinegar. 
Boil  this  mass  for  some  time  and  stir  occasionally 
until  it  is  quite  thick.  Spread  this  thickly  over  the 
entire  size  of  the  scorch  and  let  lie  for  twenty-four 
hours.  With  light  scorching  this  is  sufficient,  but 
if  bad  another  application  is  necessary.  Wash  well 
each  time  and  a  complete  cure  is  usually  effected. 
Keep  the  balance  of  the  compound  where  it  will  not 
dry  out,  in  a  jelly  tumbler  with  a  rubber  or  similar 
receptacle. 


126 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Bleach  Yellow  Linen. 

Never  try  to  bleach  linen  before  washing;  if  the 
bluing  does  not  restore  it,  it  must  be  bleached. 
Work  the  linen  well  in  water  containing  some  clear 
solution  of  bleaching-powder,  and  afterward  rinse 
well  in  clear  water.  Avoid  using  too  strong  bleaching- 
liquid.  Use  as  little  as  may  be.  A  slight  souring  in 
water  containing  acid  after  being  in  the  bleach  and 
returning  to  the  bleach  bath  will  thoroughly  whiten 
the  goods  without  further  addition  of  bleaching-pow- 
der.  Rinse  well  when  done. 

To  Detect  Cotton  in  Linen  Goods. 

Remove  the  size  by  boiling  in  water,  then  unrave 
some  threads  from  both  warp  and  filling  and  put  into 
a  solution  of  fuchsine  in  aniline.  Both  become  dyed, 
but  take  out  and  wash  and  put,  while  damp,  into 
ammonia.  The  cotton  threads  will  lose  their  color. 

To  Clean  Lace,  either  Silk  or  Thread. 

Make  in  a  boiler  a  very  strong  lather  of  white  soap 
and  clear  soft  water  and  add  a  few  drop?  of  strong 
ammonia.  Sew  around  a  black  bottle  a  piece  of  linen 
or  muslin;  tack  one  end  of  the  lace  to  the  covering, 
and  then  wind  the  lace  around  the  bottle;  wind  from 
the  top  downward,  having  the  edge  of  the  lace  down 
in  such  manner  as  to  keep  covering  the  edge;  secure 
the  end  finally  with  needle  and  thread.  Fill  the  bottle 
with  water  at  same  temperature  as  the  lather  in  the 
kettle  and  secure  the  bottle  upright  in  the  kettle  by 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


127 


strings  tied  to  the  ears,  and  around  the  neck  of  the 
bottle.  Boil  it  for  an  hour,  keeping  the  liquid  above 
the  lace,  and  when  clean  remove  the  bottle,  drain, 
and  rinse  with  very  warm  water  and  dry  in  the  sun. 
When  dry  wind  it  round  a  ribbon  block,  or  lay  in 
long  folds  between  paper,  and  press  in  a  book. 

Instead  of  boiling,  the  lace  on  the  bottle  may  be 
set  in  the  suds  and  gently  rubbed  up  and  down  with 
the  hand.  Let  it  stand  thus  in  the  sun,  changing 
the  lather  daily  for  several  days,  and  without  rinsing 
remove  and  pin  on  a  large  pillow,  covered  with  a  tight 
pillow-case.  Every  scallop  must  have  a  separate  pin 
of  small  size,  and  if  very  large  scallops,  several  pins 
to  each;  the  plain  edge  must  be  pinned  down  too, 
to  keep  it  straight.  When  quite  dry  take  it  up,  but 
do  not  starch,  iron,  or  press  it.  Lay  in  long  folds 
in  a  box. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Chinamen's  Starch. 

A  rather  thick  paste  is  made  by  beating  up  a  hand- 
ful of  raw  starch,  usually  corn  starch,  and  a  teacupful 
of  rice  flour  with  about  one  quart  of  water,  making  a 
liquid  of  cream-like  consistency.  A  portion  of  this, 
previously  determined  by  experience,  is  added  to  a 
quantity  of  boiling  water  while  the  latter  is  vigor- 
ously stirred  with  a  clean  stick.  With  this  the  articles 
to  be  starched  are  well  smeared  while  the  linen  is  yet 
moist  from  the  wringing  and  the  starch  quite  hot. 
The  pieces  are  laid  aside  for  a  few  minutes  and  then 


128 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


vigorously  rubbed  between  the  hands  until  the 
starch  is  evenly  distributed  in  the  fabric.  The  linen 
is  then  usually  dried  by  artificial  heat.  When  ready 
for  ironing  the  starched  portions  are  damped  by 
means  of  a  cloth  dipped  in  raw  starch  water,  to  which 
has  been  added  about  \  oz.  to  the  quart  of  blood 
albumen.  The  proportion  of  starch  in  the  water  is 
one  to  fifty  parts  of  water.  In  ironing,  the  irons  are 
made  very  hot  at  first,  but  are  superficially  cooled 
and  cleaned  just  before  using  by  a  plunge  for  a 
moment  into  a  pail  of  water.  The  irons  are  what  is 
commonly  called  polishing-irons;  their  posterior  edge 
is  rounded  instead  of  angular  as  is  the  ordinary 
smoothing-iron  or  "sad-iron."  Much  of  the  fine  gloss 
observed  on  shirts  laundered  by  Chinamen  is  accom- 
plished by  skilful  manipulation  of  this  rounded  edge 
over  the  work,  a  manipulation  impossible  to  describe 
in  words.  It  is  most  laborious  work  for  those  not 
accustomed  to  it.  It  not  only  renders  the  surface 
glossy,  but  imparts  an  easy  flexibility  to  the  heavily 
starched  fabric  otherwise  not  obtainable. 

Formula  for  Starch. 

One  lb.  corn  starch,  37^  ozs.  boiling  water  and 
bluing  q.s.  Make  into  boiled  starch  in  the  usual  way. 

Starch  Gloss. 

Gum  Arabic,  8|  parts;  loaf  sugar,  2 J  parts;  white 
curd  soap,  \  part;  syrupy  waterglass,  1  part;  egg  al- 
bumen, 4  parts;  warm  water,  20  pts.  The  first  three 
ingredients  are  to  be  boiled  together,  the  waterglass 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


129 


is  added,  and  when  cooled  to  140°  the  albumen  is 
put  in  and  the  whole  well  stirred  together.  Add 
about  \  oz.  to  the  above  formula  for  boiled  starch 
as  soon  as  the  boiled  starch  is  finished.  This  keeps 
well  if  corked  tight  and  kept  cool.  A  good  starch 
gloss  is  made  by  putting  2  ozs.  fine  white  gum  Arabic 
into  a  pint  or  more  of  water  and  let  it  stand  covered 
all  night.  Pour  off  carefully  next  day  from  the  dregs 
and  bottle  it  for  use  and  keep  cool  and  well  corked. 
A  teaspoonful  of  this  gum  water  to  a  pint  of  starch 
made  in  the  usual  way  imparts  to  white  or  printed 
lawns  a  look  of  newness  which  nothing  else  can 
restore  to  them  after  being  once  washed. 

Perfumed  Gloss  Tablets. 

Melt  2J  lbs.  very  best  paraffine  wax  over  a  slow 
clean  fire,  and  when  removed  from  the  fire  stir  in 
100  drops  oil  of  citronella.  Have  some  new  tins  or 
pans  of  bright  tin,  set  them  level,  and  pour  into  each 
about  y\  inch  in  depth  of  the  melted  and  perfumed 
wax.  When  cooled  stamp  out  about  the  size  of 
peppermint  lozenges,  either  square  or  round;  add 
two  of  these  cakes  to  one  pint  of  starch  and  they  will 
cause  the  polishing-iron  to  impart  the  finest  possible 
finish  to  muslin  or  linen  besides  perfuming  them. 

To  Treat  Colored  Cottons,  Colored  Muslins,  Pique, 

etc. 

Prepare  a  good  suds  with  soft  water  and  good 
white  soap.    Wash  the  dress  or  other  articles  one  at 
a  time.   As  soon  as  the  one  suds  appears  much  soiled 
9 


130  THE    DYEING    AND  CLEANING 

change  for  fresh  suds.  Have  the  water  warm,  but 
not  hot,  and  squeeze  (not  wring)  the  articles  out  of 
one  bath  before  putting  into  another.  When  thor- 
oughly clean,  rinse  in  pure  cold  water  and  squeeze 
the  water  thoroughly  out  and  hang  in  a  shady  place 
to  dry.  The  best  prints  fade  in  sunshine  if  wet  and 
may  run  if  hung  out  too  wet ;  in  wet  weather  best  dry 
by  the  fire.  Expedition,  not  allowing  the  goods  to 
repose  in  soiled  soapy  water,  is  the  secret  of  success. 
Cotton  and  linen  articles  have  the  property  of  attach- 
ing to  themselves  any  grime  that  is  suspended  in 
the  water  in  which  they  are  worked;  therefore  keep 
them  going,  and  as  soon  as  one  suds  has  loosened  up 
what  it  will,  get  immediately  to  a  clean  bath. 

Hints  in  Washing  Colored  Clothes. 

No  colored  articles  should  ever  be  boiled  or  scalded, 
nor  allowed  while  wet  to  freeze.  They  should  be 
ironed  immediately  they  are  dry  enough,  and  not  al- 
lowed to  lie  over  night.  They  should  not  be  sprinkled, 
nor  should  the  iron  be  very  hot.  Many  colors  change 
when  a  hot  iron  is  put  over  them,  especially  when 
damp.  Endeavor  to  smooth  them  with  as  little  damp 
and  heat  as  possible  to  preserve  the  color. 

To  Wash  Colored  Muslins. 

In  washing  colored  muslins  there  are  many  very 
essential  points  to  be  observed  whereby  the  colors 
are  preserved  from  injury.  In  the  first  place  they 
should  not  be  soaped  or  soaked  over  night.  They 
should,  when  ready  for  washing,  if  not  very  dirty, 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


131 


be  put  into  cold  water  and  washed  up  very  speedily. 
If  very  dirty,  the  water  used  may  be  lukewarm  and  no 
more.  The  soap  should  be  as  neutral  as  possible,  and 
to  this  end  a  small  piece  of  alum  may  be  dissolved  in 
the  water  in  which  the  soap  is  boiled  up.  Have  the 
soap  thin  and  cold.  The  soap  should  not  be  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  article  for  any  length  of  time,  and 
should  be  applied  and  washed  off  and  out  as  speedily 
as  possible.  Therefore  wash  one  article  at  a  time 
and  immediately  rinse  in  two  clear  baths  of  water. 
Where  running  water  is  to  be  had,  one  rinse  bath  is 
enough,  and  before  wringing  out  dry  the  article 
should  be  soused  in  salty  water  and  hung  at  once 
to  dry  in  the  shade. 

To  Render  the  Colors  of  Cotton  Fabrics  More 
Permanent. 

Dissolve  3  gills  of  salt  in  4  quarts  of  hot  water, 
put  the  prints  in  the  hot  liquid  and  allow  to  remain 
until  cold.  Washing  after  this  treatment  does  not 
affect  the  colors  nearly  so  badly. 

To  Wash  Chintz  to  Preserve  the  Gloss. 

Boil  2  lbs.  of  rice  in  2  gallons  of  water  till  soft. 
Cool  until  quite  easily  comfortable  to  the  hand,  and 
put  the  chintz  in,  and  use  the  soft  rice  like  soap, 
and  rub  the  article  until  the  dirt  appears  to  be  out. 
Having  boiled  the  same  quantity  of  rice  as  before, 
strain  off  the  water  and  rinse  in  this.  No  further 
starching  is  needed,  and  the  dew  will  not  affect  it, 
and  it  will  remain  well  starched  while  worn  and  keep 


132 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


clean  a  long  time.  Dry  as  smooth  as  possible  and 
smooth  with  a  hot-water  bottle. 

To  Wash  Colored  Dresses. 

Boil  1  lb.  of  best  rice  in  1  gallon  of  water  for  3  hours. 
Best  do  this  the  day  before,  and  warm  it  up  the  next 
morning,  first  pouring  off  sufficient  in  which  to  starch 
the  dress.  Wash  the  dress  in  the  remainder,  using 
the  rice  for  soap,  and  rinse  it  in  clear  cold  water. 
Wring  it  well  and  starch  in  the  rice  water  poured  off 
and  hang  to  dry.  Iron  when  dry  enough;  if  any 
spots  get  too  dry  damp  with  a  wet  cloth  while  ironing. 
This  starch  scorches  very  easily  and  the  iron  must 
be  rather  cool.  No  soap  must  be  used,  and  the  dress 
must  not  be  allowed  to  lie  damp,  but  be  quickly  got 
through  the  whole  process.  This  recipe  will  be  found 
equally  good  for  printed  muslins  and  alpaca  dresses. 

To  Wash  Gingham  Articles. 

The  writer  had  brought  to  him  a  gingham  waist, 
very  much  soiled,  and  smeared  also  with  black  axle- 
grease,  very  old.  This  was  completely  removed  in 
2  quarts  of  cold  water  in  an  ordinary  hand  washbowl 
with  1  oz.  of  tetrapole  in  a  very  expeditious  manner. 
The  color  did  not  appear  in  the  least  faded,  and  was 
of  a  check  pattern  and  light  bluish  slate  color.  The 
tetrapole  was  simply  mixed  with  the  water  and  the 
waist  thrust  in  and  squeezed  by  putting  the  hands 
flat  upon  it  and  squeezing  up  and  down.  No  further 
treatment  was  necessary  except  to  rinse  in  2  quarts 
of  fresh  water.  This  article  is  soap  dissolved  in  carbon 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


133 


tetrachloride,  and  may  be  bought  from  the  Elberfeld 
Co.,  whose  main  offices  are  at  117  Hudson  St.,  New 
York  City  and  at  133  East  Kinzie  St.,  Chicago,  111., 
and  in  the  principal  cities  of  this  country  they  have 
branches  whose  street  and  number  are  given  elsewhere. 

To  Remove  Stains  from  Acids  from  Clothing. 

Nitric  acid  utterly  destroys  the  color,  and  no  means 
can  be  employed  to  restore  it  on  woollen  and  silk. 
If  the  spot  is  small  and  upon  a  valuable  article,  it 
may  be  touched  up  with  water  colors  with  just  alcohol 
enough  previously  added  either  to  the  pigment  or 
cloth  to  cause  ready  penetration.  This  can  be  done 
in  so  skilful  a  manner  as  to  be  noticed  only  by  the 
one  who  knows  where  to  look  for  it.  When  it  is 
known  that  acid  has  fallen  upon  the  clothing,  apply 
household  ammonia  at  once  to  neutralize  the  acid. 
On  most  clothing  this  ammonia  can  be  freely  used 
with  no  fear  of  damage.  Where  the  ammonia  is  not 
readily  obtainable,  sal-soda,  or  saleratus,  baking  soda, 
or  any  weak  alkali  should  be  tried  at  once.  Strong 
acids  should  be  at  once  treated  with  water  as  co- 
piously as  may  be.  If  they  have  once  dried  upon  the 
cloth,  their  maximum  effect  has  been  produced,  and 
preventive  measures  are  of  no  use.  Alkalies  intensify 
the  yellow  produced  upon  wool  and  silk  by  nitric  acid. 
The  cloth  is  not  made  noticeably  tender  except  with 
very  strong  nitric  acid  and  its  action  prolonged  or 
aided  by  heat.  The  yellow  stain  of  nitric  acid  on 
white  woollen,  silk,  and  the  skin  is  permanent.  It 
of  course  wears  off  from  the  hands. 


134 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Remove  Stains  from  Sulphuric  Acid  upon  Gar- 
ments. 

Concentrated  sulphuric  acid  is  very  destructive  to 
fabrics.  Spilled  upon  cotton  or  linen  they  blacken 
at  once,  a  syrupy  solution  is  formed,  and  it  makes  a 
mess  generally.  Woollen  and  silk  resist,  in  some 
measure,  and  if  the  garment  can  be  got  to  water  at 
once  and  copiously  rinsed  off,  destruction  of  the 
fabric  may  be  prevented. 

Some  few  colors  are  fast  to  all  but  the  strongest 
sulphuric  acid,  but  the  majority  of  colors  change 
either  at  once,  or  after  some  time,  or  upon  drying. 

All  colors  may  be  completely  restored  where 
changed  by  sulphuric  acid  if  taken  at  once,  even  if  the 
acid  was  pretty  strong  or  hot.  Household  ammonia 
should  be  applied  to  the  stain,  using  due  care  not  to 
mess  up  adjacent  parts.  Many  reds  on  cotton  turn 
blue  if  touched  with  even  very  dilute  sulphuric  acid, 
but  are  restored  perfectly  if  treated  with  an  alkali, 
ammonia,  saleratus,  sal-soda,  or  even  soap,  even  after 
some  time.  Bear  in  mind  always  that  if  sulphuric 
acid  dries  upon  cotton  material  or  linen,  the  fabric 
is  destroyed,  and  no  matter  how  dilute  the  sulphuric 
acid,  damage  will  inevitably  result  if  allowed  to  dry 
upon  the  goods.  Therefore,  after  ever  so  thorough 
a  rinsing  off,  it  is  a  prudent  measure  to  neutralize 
any  trace  of  this  acid  by  ammonia.  Where  it  is  ap- 
prehended that  the  direct  application  of  ammonia 
to  the  goods  may  affect  the  texture  or  color,  a  cloth 
can  be  wrung  out  of  ammonia  and  laid  on  or  near  the 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


135 


spot  to  be  neutralized,  and  the  fumes  of  ammonia  will 
speedily  accomplish  the  desired  effect.  Stains  of 
sulphuric  acid  do  not  occur  upon  white  fabrics, 
fabrics  colored  by  sour  dyes,  pure  indigo  shades,  etc. 
Logwood  turns  red,  and  vegetable  colors  generally 
are  seriously  affected.  A  black  spotted  red  by  sul- 
phuric acid,  if  not  fully  restored  by  neutralizing, 
may  be  restored  by  touching  it  up  with  logwood 
decoction  and  rubbing  over  a  hot  flatiron.  Have  the 
decoction  fairly  strong;  add  a  little  tannin  substance 
too  if  logwood  seems  not  quite  the  thing  after  a  trial. 

Effect  of  Various  Acids  upon  Colored  Garments  and 
to  Treat  Stains  from  Same. 

Oxalic  acid  is  a  dry  substance,  and  not  liable  to  be 
spilled  upon  things  to  their  detriment.  It  dissolves 
in  about  nine  times  its  weight  of  cold  water  and  its 
own  weight  of  boiling  water.  In  dilute  solution  it  does 
not  affect  colors  very  quickly  or  energetically  even 
when  dried  upon  them,  especially  if  the  goods  were 
mordanted  or  sour-dyed.  The  stains  from  it,  if 
any  occur,  are  treated  with  dilute  ammonia  or  its 
fumes.  Iron  buff  color  is  spotted  by  oxalic  acid,  and 
all  the  colors  from  organic  substances,  whether  sad- 
dened or  not  by  copperas  or  bluestone.  If  the  spots 
are  old  they  may  not  restore  with  ammonia,  and  will 
require  especial  treatment.  The  most  common  thing 
is,  with  saddened  colors,  that  the  iron  has  rusted, 
which  treat  as  any  rust-spot;  if  darker  than 
the  shade  of  the  rest  of  the  cloth,  touch  with 
muriatic  acid  cautiously,  and  remove  the  acid  as 


136 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


soon  as  possible  after  it  has  done  its  work.  Apply 
ammonia  and  weak  decoction  of  logwood,  sumac, 
fustic,  archil,  or  such  thing  as  seems  best  to  produce 
the  desired  result.  Muriatic  acid  and  acetic  acid 
being  volatile,  do  not  produce  very  permanent  effects. 
The  muriatic  acid,  when  strong,  will  act  quite  ener- 
getically and  should  be  removed  by  rinsing  as  soon 
as  possible.  None  of  these  acids  have  a  marked 
carbonizing  effect  upon  vegetable  fibres,  but  will 
make  muslins  tender  to  some  extent  and  therefore 
should  be  neutralized.  They  are  useful  in  removing 
stains  from  fruits,  etc.  Lactic  acid  is  used  as  a 
mordant  assistant,  and  is  the  acid  of  sour  milk, 
buttermilk,  beet  root,  etc. 

Fruit  stains,  by  repeated  treatment  with  sour  milk, 
buttermilk,  sour  whey,  or  dilute  water-white  lactic 
acid,  and  laying  in  the  sun,  soon  bleach  out. 

Effect  of  Acids  and  Alkalies  upon  Various  Colors. 

The  effect  of  acids  upon  blacks,  purples,  blues 
(except  indigo  and  Prussian  blue),  and  upon  all 
those  shades  of  color  produced  by  vegetable  and 
astringent  substances,  iron  salts,  archil,  etc.,  is  to 
turn  them  red.  They  render  the  yellows  more  pale, 
except  annatto,  which  becomes  orange.  A  chrome 
mordant  is  not  removed  except  by  nitric  acid,  and 
where  any  spot  occurs  upon  a  chrome  mordanted 
garment  from  acid  or  alkali  it  is  possible  to  restore 
the  color  or  to  touch  up  the  spot  with  the  proper 
dye  in  solution,  and  by  the  hot  iron  to  fix  it  fast  upon 
the  spot. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


137 


Alkalies  turn  some  scarlets  violet,  and  some  greens 
upon  woollen  goods  yellow,  and  give  a  nasty  effect 
generally. 

A  spot  produced  by  unknown  means  should  be 
treated  both  by  ammonia  and  acetic  acid  before  pro- 
ceeding to  other  means  to  restore  it.  To  succeed  well 
in  this  work  some  knowledge  of  the  art  of  dyeing 
is  necessary  and  also  some  skill  to  judge  how  the 
original  color  was  applied  and  thus  be  enabled  to 
modify  the  means  accordingly. 

After  using  an  alkali  to  remove  an  acid  spot  from 
brown,  violet,  or  blue  cloth,  try  a  solution  of  tin  or 
copperas  to  restore  a  color  like  brown  produced  with 
galls.  Indigo  extract  will  restore  a  faded  blue  woollen 
or  cotton  garment,  or  spots  upon  the  same.  Red  or 
scarlet  may  be  restored  by  cochineal  and  muriate 
of  tin.  The  proper  choice  of  reagents  is  the  main 
thing  in  treating  spots  upon  colored  fabrics.  Have 
a  care  always  in  applying  them,  and  with  patience 
and  perseverance  failure  to  restore  a  color  or  to  re- 
produce the  same  again  is  rare. 

Use  ammonia  wherever  obtainable  as  an  alkali,  and 
acetic  acid  in  preference  to  other  acids.  Neither  of 
these  are  likely  to  do  damage,  and  in  a  majority  of 
cases  are  all  that  is  necessary.  Follow  them  with 
chloroform,  and  often  where  a  yellow  still  remains, 
chloroform  will  restore  the  original  shade. 

Many  vegetable  and  some  aniline  colors  are  very 
sensitive  to  acids  and  alkalies.  Archil  is  red  in 
presence  of  an  acid,  and  purplish  blue  in  presence 
of  an  alkali.   Litmus  is  another  so  sensitive  as  to  be 


138 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


employed  as  a  reagent  to  determine  whether  a  fluid 
is  acid  or  alkaline.  Methyl  orange  is  an  aniline  color 
of  extreme  sensitiveness. 

Vegetable  juices  have  this  property  in  some  degree 
and  it  is  usually  the  case  that  they  are  paler  when 
in  the  presence  of  an  acid  than  if  alkaline. 

On  textiles  it  is  a  fact  that  by  adding  soap  or  an 
alkali  to  stains  from  vegetable  or  fruit  juices  or  grass 
stains  a  very  permanent  color  is  fixed  upon  the  goods. 
Vegetable  and  fruit  juices  contain  pectous  matters 
that  if  got  upon  cloth,  handkerchiefs,  napkins,  etc., 
and  the  sun  allowed  to  shine  upon  them,  they  become 
very  firmly  fixed  upon  the  cloth.  Therefore  it  follows 
that  as  much  as  possible  of  such  matters  should  be 
first  removed  by  pure  water,  either  hot  or  cold,  before 
any  reagent  or  sunlight  has  a  chance  to  act  upon  them. 
Stains  upon  white  napkins  of  this  character  may  have 
to  the  water  in  which  they  are  soaked  an  ounce  or  two 
of  muriatic  acid  added  with  most  gratifying  results. 
Coffee  and  chocolate  stains,  if  they  do  not  wash  out, 
need  to  be  sulphured.  Burn  a  small  piece  of  sulphur 
on  a  plate.  Cover  it  with  a  paper  cone,  and  apply  the 
damp  stained  place  to  the  opening  of  the  cone.  A 
" Portland  Star"  match  will  sulphur  a  small  stain, 
if  lighted  and  held  carefully  under  the  moist  stain. 

To  Prepare  Colored  Silks  for  Washing  and  Dyeing. 

If  the  silk  to  be  washed  is  a  dress,  remove  the  band 
from  the  waist  and  the  lining  from  the  bottom.  Do 
not  rip  the  seams  of  the  skirt.  If  gathers,  tucks, 
plaits,  etc.,  occur,  let  them  out  if  going  to  be  made 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


139 


over  when  dyed.  Trimmings,  curtains,  and  furniture, 
where  there  are  deep  folds  the  bottom  of  which  is 
difficult  to  reach,  should  be  undone  so  as  to  lie  flat. 
Most  colors  are  really  improved  by  the  following 
method,  especially  red,  blue,  purple,  olive,  drab,  etc. 
Spread  the  silk  upon  a  clean,  smooth  table.  A  flannel 
is  made  just  wet  and  well  soaped  and  the  surface  of 
the  silk  rubbed  always  one  way  and  not  back  and 
forth  or  around.  Rub  but  a  small  place  at  a  time, 
and  quite  evenly.  The  soap  is  removed  by  a  sponge 
as  soon  as  the  dirt  seems  gone.  Keeping  the  sponge 
full  as  possible  of  cold  water,  do  only  a  small  place 
at  a  time,  and  go  over  both  sides  of  the  garment 
in  the  same  way.  Satin  dresses,  and  ribbons,  both 
white  and  colored,  and  all  sorts  of  silk  ribbons 
and  trimmings  may  be  successfully  treated  in  this 
manner. 

The  following  forrfiula  and  directions  for  coloring 
silk  are  added,  not  so  much  for  their  present  value 
as  for  the  purpose  of  showing  how  our  forbears  went 
about  it.  The  methods  are  good,  and  where  the 
materials  to  carry  them  out  can  be  procured,  may  be 
found  most  useful.  Compared  to  the  modern  one- 
bath  methods  of  working,  they  seem  very  crude,  and 
to  the  amateur  involve  a  needless  amount  of  labor 
and  preparation.  If  sending  goods  to  the  dye  works, 
let  them  do  the  cleaning  to  suit  themselves. 

Cleaning  Old  Silk  Garments  that  are  to  be  Dyed. 

For  a  garment  weighing  2  lbs. :  Boil  the  garment  in 
sufficient  water  to  which  3|  ozs.  of  crystallized  soda 


140 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


(sal-soda)  has  been  added,  so  long  as  it  seems  to  be 
necessary.  Boil  again  in  a  fresh  bath  containing 
some  good  soap,  sufficient  to  suds  when  briskly 
stirred  with  the  fingers.  Rinse  in  clear  water  and 
the  garment  is  ready  for  dyeing.  Remember  that 
the  present  shade  of  the  goods  will  vary  the  tone  of 
any  subsequent  dyeing,  and  the  color  should  now 
be  level. 

To  Dye  Black  on  2  lbs.  of  Silk. 

Make  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  iron  4°  strength 
Baume.  Work  the  goods  in  this  solution  \  hour  cold. 
Rinse.  Make  a  decoction  with  lbs.  chip  logwood 
and  1  lb.  chip  fustic  sufficient  in  which  to  boil  the 
goods.  Boil  \  hour;  10  per  cent  of  logwood  extract 
and  1  per  cent  fustic  extract  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  chips.  If  a  bluish  black  is  desired,  use  less 
fustic.  Decoctions  of  the  different  dyewoods  are 
prepared  in  the  dyehouse  as  they  are  required,  1  lb. 
of  the  chipped  wood  to  1  gallon  of  water,  boiled  for 
1  hour.  The  wood  is  reboiled  in  the  same  bulk  of 
water,  and  this  water  used  for  fresh  chips  indefinitely. 
The  saving  is  nearly  25  per  cent.  Ground  fustic, 
ground  logwood,  camwood,  or  barwood  are  often 
added  to  the  dye  bath  along  with  the  goods,  the 
whole  boiled  for  an  hour  and  saddened  with  cop- 
peras, or  a  mixture  of  copperas,  bluestone,  and 
argol.  Alum  may  be  added  if  needed  to  redden 
the  shade.  Camwood  and  barwood  are  used  in  no 
other  way  than  boiling  their  powders  direct  with 
the  goods. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


141 


To  Dye  a  Rose-Red  Color. 

No.  1. — Two  lbs.  of  silk,  cleaned  as  directed:  Grind 
together  1  drachm  of  cochineal  and  If  ozs.  of  pure 
alum  (free  of  iron),  add  the  mixture  to  the  hot  dye 
bath,  and  stir  thoroughly.  Dye  the  silk  in  this  liquor 
for  as  long  as  it  gains  in  depth  of  color,  then  work  in 
the  same  bath  for  15  minutes  after  lifting  and  dis- 
coloring the  bath  with  white  vinegar  or  acetic  acid. 

No.  2. — Dissolve  2  lbs.  alum  in  sufficient  hot  water 
to  handle  the  goods,  and  work  for  6  to  8  hours,  stirring 
frequently.  To  shorten  the  time  the  goods  may  be 
lifted  and  the  bath  reheated  to  130°  or  even  more. 
Rinse  and  dry.  Dye  in  the  same  bath  at  130°  Fahr. 
after  the  addition  of  cochineal,  ground  fine  and  mixed 
with  1  teacup  hot  water. 

To  Dye  Scarlet  2  lbs.  of  Silk. 

Steep  for  2  hours  in  acetate  of  alumina  at  6°  Baume, 
squeeze  and  dry,  then  wash  in  hot  water  containing 
lbs.  bran  and  ozs.  of  powdered  chalk.  Dye  in 
hot  decoction  of  3  J  lbs.  Brazilwood  and  8f  ozs. 
cochineal,  with  or  without  the  addition  of  1  lb.  of 
bran;  the  color  is  brighter  when  bran  is  added. 

To  Dye  Violet  Color. 

Boil  with  3|  ozs.  sulphuric  acid  8f  ozs.  blue  vitriol, 
8f  ozs.  common  salt,  and  4|  ozs.  cream  of  tartar. 
Boil  for  40  minutes,  squeeze  out,  dry,  and  then  cleanse 
by  working  thoroughly  in  water  containing  1  lb.  bran 
and  8  ozs.  chalk.    Dye  just  below  the  boiling-point 


142 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


for  one  hour  in  a  fresh  dye  bath  containing  6  lbs. 
madder  and  J  lb.  bran. 

To  Dye  Crimson  about  2  lbs.  of  Silk. 

Steep  in  solution  of  acetate  of  alumina  of  6°  Baume 
to  which  has  been  added  a  solution  of  1  to  If  ozs.  of 
copper  sulphate  (blue  vitriol)  for  1  hour.  Squeeze 
out  of  the  solution  and  cleanse  in  a  mixture  of  bran, 
chalk,  and  water  made  up  pretty  thin.  Dye  in  a  hot, 
but  not  boiling,  decoction  of  3|  lbs.  Brazilwood  and 
13  ozs.  of  cochineal  and  1  lb.  of  wheat  bran.  Dye 
for  1  hour  and  rinse  in  water  containing  2  to  3  ozs. 
sal-ammoniac. 

To  Dye  Drab  or  Gray  2  lbs.  of  Silk. 

3J  ozs.  sulphuric  acid, 
81  ozs.  blue  vitriol, 
8j  ozs.  table  salt, 
4J  ozs.  white  tartar. 
Mordant  in  cold  solution  1  hour;  squeeze,  and  rinse. 
Dye  at  130°.    For  yellowish  gray,  decoction  of 
fustic;  for  deep  gray,  decoction  of  gall  nuts;  for 
greenish  gray,  decoction  of  quercitron  bark. 

To  Dye  a  Red  Color  2  lbs.  of  Silk  Cleansed  as 
Directed. 

Mordant  for  1\  hours  in  a  solution  of  acetate  of 
alumina,  strength  of  5°  Baume  hydrometer.  As  it 
is  risky  to  wring  like  a  washerwoman  any  old  fabric, 
therefore  squeeze  as  dry  as  possible  and  cleanse  in 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


143 


water  containing  wheat  bran  and  powdered  chalk, 
1  quart  bran,  8  ozs.  chalk.  Boil  up  6J  lbs.  madder 
and  8|  ozs.  sumac  and  J  lb.  bran  and  dye  therein 
2\  hours.  Brighten  by  boiling  2  hours  with  3^  ozs. 
castile  soap,  1  lb.  bran,  2  ozs.  muriate  of  tin. 

To  Prevent  Injury  to  Kid  Gloves  from  Perspiration. 

Dust  the  hands,  just  before  drawing  on  the  gloves, 
with  powdered  corn  starch  or  pulverized  soapstone. 
Persons  whose  hands  perspire  badly  will  find  that 
their  gloves  will  keep  clean  and  looking  well  much 
longer. 

To  Clean  Kid  Gloves. 

No.  1. — A  single  pair  of  gloves  is  nicely  cleaned  by 
putting  them  into  an  ordinary  pint  fruit  jar,  along  with 
\  pint  of  ordinary  stove  gasoline.  Screw  on  the  cap  with 
its  rubber  and  shake  up.  Some  little  may  escape 
around  the  cap,  but  if  not  inverted,  they  can  be  shaken 
enough  in  \  minute  to  do  the  work.  Remove  them 
from  the  gasoline,  and  examine  for  any  dirt  not 
removed.  If  traces  yet  remain,  rub  them  with  a  cloth 
dipped  in  gasoline,  when  the  last  traces  disappear. 
The  gloves  dry  very  quickly,  and  to  remove  the  last 
traces  of  odor,  place  them  upon  a  plate  covered  with 
another  plate  and  place  over  the  top  of  a  boiling 
kettle.  This  temperature  will  not  hurt  the  glove, 
and  the  warmth  of  the  hand  will  not  afterward 
develop  any  odor.  Beware  of  getting  near  a  fire 
or  naked  flame  of  any  kind  while  working  with 
gasoline. 


144 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Clean  Kid  Gloves. 

No.  2. — Where  a  large  number  of  gloves  are  to  be 
cleaned,  procure  a  wide-mouthed  glass  jar,  say  2  ft.  high 
and  8-inch  stopper  of  glass.  Such  jars  are  easily  pro- 
curable, being  much  used  in  pharmacy.  Put  in  2  or  3 
gallons  of  benzine  or  gasoline  and  as  many  gloves  as 
the  liquid  will  cover.  Close  the  bottle  and  shake  well. 
After  a  few  minutes  shake  again,  and  remove  the 
gloves  with  a  hook  or  pair  of  suitable  iron  forceps, 
wring  them  out  one  by  one,  or  in  pairs,  if  the  wise 
precaution  has  been  taken  to  tie  the  button-holes 
together,  or  in  some  way  pairing  them  before  putting 
them  in,  or  when  received  from  the  customer.  Let 
all  the  liquid  run  back  into  the  bottle.  The  operator 
should  be  protected  from  the  gases,  by  facing  a  good 
draught,  or  better,  in  front  of  a  chimney  opening 
somewhat  below  the  top  of  the  bottle.  The  gases  being 
heavier  than  air,  will  thus  easily  be  drawn  away  from 
the  operator.  The  chimney  should  be  built  pur- 
posely for  this  work,  and  may  be  of  wood,  and  where 
power  is  available,  have  a  blower.  Provision  is  made 
for  hanging  the  pairs  of  gloves  across  a  wire  inside 
the  hood  of  the  chimney,  and  steam  or  hot- water  pipes 
may  be  provided  to  raise  the  temperature  sufficiently 
to  expel  the  last  traces  of  odor.  The  chimney  should 
have  two  openings,  one  above  and  one  below  the 
arrangement  of  heating  pipes.  The  upper  one  is 
opened  only  while  placing  the  gloves  to  be  dried. 
The  benzine  remaining  in  the  bottle  assumes  a  dirty 
gray  color  during  the  washing,  and  when  too  dirty 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


145 


must  be  redistilled  or  thrown  away.  A  very  good 
distilling  apparatus  can  be  made  for  a  small  sum, 
and  the  redistilled  gasoline  or  benzine  is  less  odorous 
than  at  first.  A  common  3-gallon  tin  can  makes  a 
good  retort  for  this  purpose.  It  has  two  openings, 
one  with  a  screw  cap  and  the  other  is  the  spout. 
Arrange  to  set  it  in  a  water  bath,  which  may  be  a 
tub  of  water  heated  with  steam.  A  common  tin  pail 
with  straight  sides  answers  well  for  the  cooler  for  the 
worm.  Make  the  worm  coil  from  J-inch  lead  pipe 
by  winding  it  around  something  somewhat  smaller 
than  the  cooler.  Set  the  worm  into  the  cooler,  pass- 
ing the  lower  end  out  through  a  hole  in  or  near  the 
bottom;  the  upper  end  may  rest  in  a  notch  on  the 
top  or  pass  out  through  a  hole  near  the  top.  The 
top  and  bottom  openings  of  the  worm  had  best  be 
on  opposite  sides,  and  may  be  soldered  or  luted  water- 
tight. The  upper  end  of  the  worm  is  belled  out  so 
as  to  admit  the  pipe  from  the  retort  and  to  be  packed 
with  damp  cotton,  clay,  or  anything  not  soluble  in 
gasoline.  After  getting  all  ready  and  connecting  the 
pipe  from  the  retort,  fill  the  cooler  with  water  and 
add  a  lump  of  ice.  Steady  the  retort  in  the  tub  so 
ebullition  will  not  disturb  it,  and  make  the  spout, 
with  a  short  piece  of  pipe  to  connect  with  the  belled 
end  of  the  worm.  Distillation  is  begun  by  filling 
the  tub  with  hot  water,  and  a  very  small  steam  pipe 
will  keep  it  going.  It  is  best  to  fill  the  retort  before 
surrounding  it  with  hot  water,  but  with  care  fresh 
charges  can  be  added. 


10 


146 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Remove  Stains  from  Kid  Gloves. 

Provide  a  glass  jar,  and  in  the  bottom  of  it  place 
about  \  inch  in  depth  of  ammonia.  Have  a  care  that 
the  sides  and  top  of  the  jar  are  not  wetted  with  the 
ammonia.  Suspend  the  gloves  from  the  cover  in 
such  manner  that  they  touch  neither  the  sides  of  the 
jar  or  liquid  in  the  bottom.  The  most  delicate  shades 
of  colored  gloves  are  not  injured  by  this  treatment, 
and  should  remain  about  8  hours  in  the  atmosphere 
of  ammonia. 

To  Clean  Kid  Gloves. 

No.  3. — Fuller's  earth  and  powdered  alum,  both  dry, 
and  rubbed  upon  the  gloves  with  a  brush;  follow  with 
bran  in  the  same  way,  or  roll  and  work  the  glove 
about  in  the  dry  bran.  Brush  this  off,  and  if  not 
quite  clean  rub  with  a  clean  woollen  rag  dipped  into 
dry  powder  of  fuller's  earth. 

To  Clean  Kid  Gloves. 

Put  the  gloves  on  the  hands,  and  wash  them  in 
rectified  spirits  of  turpentine  until  quite  clean.  Rub 
them  exactly  as  if  washing  the  hands.  When  finished 
hang  them  in  a  current  of  air  to  dry  and  until  the 
odor  of  turpentine  is  removed.  Where  turpentine  is 
used,  heating  to  expel  the  turpentine  is  to  be  avoided, 
as  a  slight  yellowing  may  result. 

It  is  obvious  that  gasoline,  benzine,  benzol,  ether, 
chloroform,  petroleum  spirit,  etc.,  can  be  used  in 
place  of  turpentine,  in  which  case  the  drying  may  be 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


147 


completed  and  odor  removed  by  heating  between 
two  plates  over  boiling  water.  Remember  the  pre- 
cautions about  fire.  The  gloves  may  finally  be  folded 
and  pressed  between  paper  with  a  warm  iron. 

To  Clean  Kid  Gloves. 

Where  there  is  fear  or  prejudice  against  the  use  of 
inflammables  like  gasoline,  etc.,  the  following  way  is 
good:  Make  a  strong  solution  of  soap  in  hot  milk  and 
beat  up  therewith  the  yolk  of  one  egg  to  each  pint  of 
solution.  A  little  ether,  say  a  teaspoonful  to  each 
pint,  is  beneficial.  Put  the  gloves  on  the  hands  and 
wash  hands,  gloves  and  all,  in  the  mixture.  When 
clean  press  one  hand  gently  over  lengthwise  to  press 
out  the  wet  and  dab  them  as  dry  as  possible  with  a 
cloth  held  between  the  hands.  White  gloves  are  not 
discolored  by  this  treatment,  and  the  leather  is  made 
clean  and  soft  as  when  new.  Dry  them  in  a  cool 
place  and  draw  them  gently  through  the  fingers 
several  times  while  drying. 

To  Clean  Kid  Gloves. 

Make  a  strong  lather  with  curd  soap  and  water. 
Lay  the  glove  on  a  plate,  or  any  unyielding  surface, 
dip  a  piece  of  flannel  in  the  lather  and  rub  the  gloves 
until  the  d  irt  is  out,  turning  the  glove  so  as  to  get 
at  all  its  parts.  Don't  dry  too  quickly.  When 
dry  they  will  look  like  old  parchment,  and  should 
be  gently  pulled  and  stretched  just  before  they  are 
quite  dry. 


148 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Dye  Kid  Gloves. 

The  gloves  must  first  be  thoroughly  cleaned,  or  if 
not  much  soiled,  they  may  be  dyed  and  cleaned  at 
one  operation.  Dyes,  called  oil-soluble  dyes,  are  to 
be  first  obtained  from  the  dealer,  a  red,  a  yellow,  and 
a  blue.  Take  a  bit  of  each  of  these  and  dissolve  in 
each  of  three  small  phials  in  gasoline,  shake  well  up 
and  allow  to  settle.  To  the  gasoline  in  which  you 
intend  to  clean  the  gloves  add  a  small  portion  from 
one  or  more  of  the  phials  until  about  the  right  color 
is  obtained.  Wash  the  gloves  both  together  in  the 
gasoline.  Colors  are  not  taken  up  always  with  equal 
rapidity,  so  keep  your  liquor  on  the  light  side  and  see 
what  you  get  after  the  gloves  are  put  in.  You  can 
then  add  a  little  more  red,  yellow,  or  blue  from  the 
phials  as  seems  needed  to  complete  the  shade  wanted. 
The  gloves  are  dyed  inside  and  out  in  this  way,  and 
if  too  dark  shades  are  attempted  the  hands  may  be 
soiled  when  wearing  them.  To  remove  smell  of 
gasoline  place  the  gloves  over  boiling  water  between 
two  plates  for  some  time,  until  the  odor  is  gone. 

To  Dye  Kid  Gloves  Black. 

First  clean  the  gloves  from  perspiration  and  grease. 
Draw  the  glove  very  smoothly  on  a  wooden  "  glove 
hand"  and  apply  the  dye  liquor  with  a  sponge  as 
evenly  as  possible.  The  glove  is  first  moistened  with 
a  solution  of  1  oz.  of  sal-soda  to  1  pint  water  and  dried. 
A  strong  decoction  of  logwood  is  then  brushed  over 
it  and  left  for  10  minutes,  and  preferably  rotated  so 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


149 


there  shall  be  no  draining  down  or  uneven  drying. 
Repeat  the  application  of  logwood  and  again  dry. 
If  the  logwood  decoction  is  strong  enough,  this  ought 
to  be  enough;  then  dip  hand  and  glove  into  a  solu- 
tion of  copperas,  or  nitrate  of  iron.  When  the  glove 
begins  to  dry  rub  with  olive  oil  and  talc  and  take 
from  the  hand  and  press  between  flannel.  Afterward 
it  is  again  rubbed  with  a  little  talc  and  olive  oil  and 
put  upon  the  hand.  Be  careful  that  the  dye  does 
not  get  upon  the  inside  of  the  glove;  it  will  not  crock, 
but  the  appearance  is  injured. 

Any  of  the  water-soluble  anilines  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose.  The  gloves  must  be  clean  of  greasy 
matter.  The  kid  has  great  affinity  for  these  dyes 
and  holds  them  very  well.  Place  the  glove  on  the 
wooden  hand  and  apply  a  decoction  of  the  dye  made 
up  like  paint  to  the  shade  wanted.  A  sponge  works 
more  evenly  than  a  brush,  though  good  work  may 
be  done  with  either.  To  prevent  stiffness,  especially 
in  the  seams,  apply  gasoline  in  which  a  little  oleic 
acid  has  been  dissolved,  or  add  to  the  dye  a  very  little 
glycerine.  Glycerine  and  water  may  also  be  used 
after  all  else  is  done;  don't  use  too  much  glycerine. 
Neutral  dyeing  colors  are  best  for  these  purposes. 

B-blue, 

B-yellow, 

B-black, 

B-green, 

B-brown. 

These  colors  are  soluble  in  alcohol  and  benzine, 
gasoline,  etc.    Their  solutions  are  equally  good  for 


150 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


feathers.  The  benzine  solutions  should  have  a  trace 
of  oleic  acid  (red  oil)  dissolved  in  them  to  prevent 
stiffness.  By  some  practice  very  satisfactory  work 
can  be  done  with  these  wares.  Undissolved  particles  * 
must  be  guarded  against,  as  a  few  specks  of  undis- 
solved dye  in  making  a  light  shade  would  spoil  the 
glove  for  any  color  except  black,  and  even  then  a 
bronze  effect  may  result. 

To  Dye  Various  Articles  without  Wetting  Them 
with  Water. 

Of  quite  recent  introduction  to  the  trade  are  the 
so-called  "  oil-soluble  colors. "  These  are  soluble  in 
gasoline  and  petroleum  products  generally.  A  bath 
may  be  made  by  using  these  dyes  dissolved  in  the 
gasoline,  benzine,  etc.,  and  dipping  the  articles  into 
it  for  a  moment.  The  articles  can  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  from  greasy  matters  and  dirt  at  the  same 
time.  By  the  one  operation  silk  veils,  kid,  silk,  and 
lisle  gloves  can  each  and  all  be  thus  dyed.  Although 
the  colors  thus  obtained  boast  of  no  great  perma- 
nency, still  they  will  last  until  they  need  cleaning 
again,  when  the  operation  can  be  repeated.  As  a 
rule  the  same  bath  of  gasoline  can  be  used  a  dozen 
times  over  and  finally  employed  to  run  the  gasoline 
stove  or  automobile. 

Steam  Cleaning. 

"Steam-cleaned"  means  washed  with  soap  and 
water.  A  " steam  laundry"  therefore  simply  means 
that  they  heat  their  water,  melt  their  soap,  dry  their 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


151 


customers'  linen,  etc.,  by  heat  from  steam  pipes, 
either  "open"  or  closed.  Their  goose,  or  flatirons, 
also  are  heated  in  a  " steam  chest."  Steam-cleaned 
garments,  however,  imply  a  little  more  than  simply 
washed  with  water.  It  has  been  found  that  men's 
coats,  waistcoats,  trousers,  etc.,  require  to  be  hand- 
treated  in  such  a  way  that  the  soap  and  water  is 
worked  into  them  thoroughly  while  there  is  at  the 
same  time  no  friction  of  the  parts  of  the  garment  upon 
one  another  that  will  cause  "  felting,"  which  is  but 
another  name  for  shrinking,  when  used  in  this  con- 
nection. The  best  means  yet  found  is  to  place  the 
garment  upon  a  table  or  bench  and  apply  hot  suds 
to  it  with  a  scrubbing-brush.  Dirt  and  grease  that 
has  been  for  months  gradually  accumulating  in  the 
fabric  is  thus  speedily  loosened  and  worked  out  and 
into  the  lather,  and  will  rinse  off  when  water  is 
poured  over  it.  The  secret  of  success  seems  to  be, 
thoroughly  brush  up  a  warm  lather  and  then  to 
thoroughly  rinse  it  off.  Occasionally  an  exceedingly 
soiled  garment  needs  to  be  gone  over  a  second  time 
with  the  scrub-brush,  and  again  rinsed  off.  Bristle 
brushes  are  made  especially  for  the  purpose,  and  are 
the  best.  Any  good  clothes-brush  may,  of  course,  be 
used,  but  the  wood  of  its  setting  is  ruined  in  a  short 
time.  Wringing,  by  twisting  the  goods,  will  not  do 
at  all,  and  in  regular  works  hydro  extractors  or 
centrifugal  machines  are  used.  The  common  clothes- 
wringer  is  good,  but  where  not  obtainable,  best 
squeeze  out  what  you  can  and  hang  up.  After 
draining  for  a  time  the  excess  of  water  will  settle  in 


152 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


the  lowest  points  and  can  be  again  squeezed  with 
the  hands.  Small  articles  can  be  placed  in  a  towel 
and  the  towel  swung  round  like  a  wheel  and  the 
water  thus  thrown  out  pretty  well.  Also  large  gar- 
ments can  be  put  in  a  sheet  and  two  persons  can 
swing  it  round  same  as  children  jump  rope  and  throw 
out  the  water  in  imitation  of  the  centrifugal  machine. 
Out  of  doors  would,  of  course,  be  necessary  for  these 
operations  unless  the  house  were  provided  with  a 
regularly  appointed  wash-room.  Where  no  better 
way  is  to  be  had  take  the  garment  into  a  tub,  and 
with  a  brush,  and  on  the  common  washboard,  work 
up  a  good  lather  all  over  the  face  of  the  goods.  Don't 
rub  the  garment  at  all  upon  the  board  as  in  washing 
linen;  the  board  is  simply  to  support  the  garment 
while  you  scrub  it  with  a  brush.  You  may  souse  it 
up  and  down  in  clean  warm  water  to  get  out  the 
soap,  and  thoroughness  is  essential.  It  is  usual  and 
necessary  to  "  steam-clean "  all  garments  before 
attempting  to  redye  them.  The  exception  is  where 
a  union  dye  is  to  be  used.  These  dyes  usually  con- 
tain some  carbonate  of  soda,  or  you  are  directed  to 
add  some  to  the  dye  bath.  The  dye  bath  may  be 
heated  to  boiling  and  the  garment  put  in  without 
the  dye,  but  with  the  carbonate  of  soda;  don't  boil 
but  thoroughly  work  the  garment  in  the  hot  liquid 
for  say  10  minutes,  lift,  and  inspect  it  after  draining. 
It  will  usually  appear  that  the  dirt  is  sufficiently 
removed  and  that  no  spots  remain.  If  spots  do 
remain,  some  soap  on  your  scrub-brush  must  be 
applied  as  a  further  treatment,  and  the  garment 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


153 


again  soused  in  the  dye  vessel  and  soda  liquid.  If 
the  soda  liquid  is  very  soiled,  best  throw  it  away 
and  start  afresh.  Garments  that  are  to  be  worn  in 
their  present  shape  are  not  to  be  ripped  at  all.  If 
the  garment,  however,  is  to  be  made  over,  all  folds, 
tucks,  gathers,  etc.,  must  be  let  out.  Detached  pieces 
are,  however,  very  liable  to  be  lost,  or  to  settle  down 
in  the  dye  bath  and  get  unevenly  colored,  and  there- 
fore leave  them  on  in  part  if  possible.  Seams  ravel 
if  let  out,  so  take  out  no  more  than  necessary. 

Dry  Cleaning. 

"Dry  cleaning/'  so-called,  is  performed  in  a  variety 
of  ways,  all  of  which,  however,  immerse  the  garment 
in  a  fluid  other  than  water,  with  more  or  less  agita- 
tion, to  work  out  as  much  as  possible  other  matters 
than  those  of  an  oily  nature  that  may  be  caught  and 
imprisoned  in  the  cloth.  Soaps  soluble  in  benzine 
are  used  in  conjunction.  Ammonia  gas  is  forced  in 
under  pressure  in  air-tight  drums  to  aid  and  facilitate 
the  process.  The  ammonia  process  is  best,  but  can 
hardly  be  carried  out  at  home.  Immersion  in  gaso- 
line, benzine,  naphtha,  carbon  disulphide,  petroleum 
spirits,  chloroform,  ether,  etc.,  can,  however,  be  done 
if  there  is  due  care  taken  to  prevent  accident  by  fire. 
Chloroform  is  not  inflammable,  or  at  least  not  readily. 
Carbondisulphide  is  not  only  very  inflammable,  but 
both  the  vapor  and  the  products  of  combustion  are 
irrespirable  and  may  cause  great  injury  or  even 
death  if  inhaled,  though  the  flame  does  not  come 
in  contact  with  the  person.    The  most  important 


154 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


thing  in  connection  with  this  process  is  to  thoroughly 
squeeze  out  the  fluid  used  for  cleansing.  A  second 
bath,  for  rinsing  purposes,  is  highly  important  where 
first-class  work  is  to  be  done.  A  cylinder  press  is 
economical  in  the  large  way,  but  at  home  the  best 
recourse  is  to  squeeze  out  all  possible  and  place  in 
a  towel  or  sheet  and  wring  or  whiz  out  of  doors. 
The  gasoline,  benzine,  etc.,  holds  the  grease  in  solu- 
tion, and  if  left  in  deposits  it  again  in  the  goods  upon 
drying.  The  goods  after  drying  must  be  well  beaten 
that  any  dust  be  knocked  out  and  "spotted."  Spots 
that  remain  are  often  simply  mud  and  scratch  away 
with  the  finger  nail  and  slight  brushing.  Soapsuds 
and  the  brush,  soap  bark,  tetrapole,  alcohol  (chloro- 
form to  restore  the  color),  or  any  other  thing  within 
the  knowledge  and  experience  of  the  operator  can 
be  tried  upon  spots  and  stains  that  are  likely  to 
remain.  The  chief  advantages  of  "dry  cleaning"  is 
that  the  garment  in  bulk  does  not  have  to  be  wet, 
and  therefore  does  not  shrink,  the  color  is  not  af- 
fected, or,  if  it  is,  is  affected  all  over  evenly,  and  if 
carefully  done  leaves  behind  no  dust-catching  residue 
of  soap  or  unctuous'  matter  of  any  kind.  So  simple  a 
thing  as  sugar  candy  will  not,  however,  come  off  with 
"dry  cleaning/'  but  must  be  supplemented  by  local 
treatment  with  warm  water  and  afterward  rinsed — 
not  just  simply  rinsed  by  a  dash  of  cold  water,  but 
rinsed  out,  and  it  may  take  hot  water  to  do  it.  Water 
is  a  universal  solvent.  It  will  act  upon  more  forms 
of  dirt  than  any  other  liquid  known.  After  dry 
cleaning,  therefore,  sponge  any  spots  with  a  sponge 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


155 


wrung  out  of  warm  water  before  trying  anything  else, 
then  soap  and  water  and  gradually  stronger  alkaline 
things,  having  due  regard  for  the  color, not  to  injure  it. 
Neutral  solutions  of  soap  may  be  used  in  volatile  liquids 
like  carbon  tetrachloride,  chloroform,  alcohol,etc,  and 
it  is  but  one  time  in  a  thousand  that  a  spot  fails  to 
come  off.  Where  the  color  is  actually  gone,  or  greatly 
modified  by  acids  or  alkalies,  it  must  be  restored  by 
redyeing,  either  local,  or  throughout.  Small  spots 
can  be  touched  up  with  the  camel-hair  pencil  dipped 
in  solutions  of  the  proper  shade  and  the  color  set  b)' 
a  hot  iron.  This  can  be  so  skilfully  done  that  only 
the  practised  eye  could  detect  where  it  had  been  done. 
Tetrachloride  of  carbon  is  excellent  for  household  use, 
being  absolutely  non-inflammable,  much  less  costly 
than  chloroform,  and  is  not  dangerous  to  have  about. 
The  solvent  sold  under  the  name  of  "Carbona"  ap- 
pears to  be  the  same  thing. 

Laundry  Starches  and  Starching. 

In  the  large  way  all  this  work  is  clone  by  machines 
that  rub  the  starch  into  and  through  the  goods  with 
a  regularity  and  evenness  of  penetration  not  possible 
to  attain  by  hand  labor.  "  Boiled  starch  "  should  al- 
ways be  used,  and  wheat  starch  for  stiffness.  Corn 
starch  is  used,  but  usually  only  to  prevent  brittleness. 
Rice  starch  would  probably  be  a  more  lasting  form 
of  starching  for  damp  climates  and  situations.  Many 
laundries  use  only  wheat  starch,  some  §  wheat  and 
I  corn,  some  equal  parts  of  each.   Nothing  should  be 


156 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


added  to  the  starch.  The  popular  idea  that  laundries 
use  paraffine  wax  or  some  other  form  of  wax,  gum 
Arabic,  etc.,  is  all  bosh.  The  gloss  is  due  entirely  to 
pressure  and  friction.  Pressure  alone  gives  a  dead 
or  " domestic77  finish,  without  gloss.  If  a  collar  is 
ironed  on  a  machine  where  the  iron  turns  and  the 
ironing-board  is  stationary,  the  result  is  a  high  gloss ; 
where  the  ironing-board  is  turning  at  the  same  time, 
the  result  is  the  dull  or  " domestic 77  finish.  Collars 
or  any  heavily  starched  goods  should  have  the 
wrinkles  worked  and  smoothed  out  with  the  palm  of 
the  hand,  then  dried  and  damped  again  before  ironing. 
The  iron  should  be  as  heavy  as  the  operator  can 
handle  if  working  by  hand.  Set  the  iron  upon  a 
collar  and  don't  move  it  until  the  collar  is  dry,  and 
you  get  domestic  finish.  If  you  rub  the  iron  back 
and  forth  or  use  a  polishing  iron,  which  is  rounded 
off  upon  the  heel  in  such  manner  as  to  tip  it  up  with  a 
sliding  or  a  jerky  sort  of  hitch,  a  high  polish  will  result. 
Anyone  who  has  watched  a  Chinaman  will  under- 
stand the  movement  he  uses,  but  it  is  impossible  to 
describe  it.  The  formula  here  given  is  for  starching 
collars  and  cuffs  and  shirt  fronts:  Take  1  lb.  of  wheat 
starch,  or  any  admixture  of  wheat  and  corn  starch 
to  suit  the  fancy  or  requirements,  and  stir  it  thoroughly 
with  cold  water  until  a  uniform  milky  fluid  results, 
free  from  lumps;  then  add  boiling  water  enough  to 
make  the  whole  up  to  one  gallon,  and  boil  the  mixture 
for  at  least  20  minutes,  better  \  hour  or  longer, 
stirring  all  the  time.  The  vessel  should  be  covered 
to  keep  out  dust  and  dirt,  both  while  boiling  and 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


157 


when  removed  from  the  fire,  and  furthermore  to 
prevent  a  skin  of  hardened  starch  paste  from  forming 
upon  its  surface.  The  above  is  from  a  practical 
laundryman,  and  should  be  accurate  and  up  to  date. 

The  Pressing  of  Woollen  Cloths  and  Garments. 

In  textile  mills  it  is  thoroughly  understood  that 
steam  is  the  chief  means  of  making  the  fabric  soft 
and  flexible  so  it  may  be  stretched  perfectly  to  width 
and  smoothness,  and  furthermore  that  it  must  be 
pressed  and  heated  until  dry  to  make  it  retain  its 
width,  length,  gloss,  and  smoothness.  The  goods  are 
stretched,  however,  when  simply  wet,  and  held 
stretched  out  until  dry.  They  also  have  been  brushed 
to  make  the  nap  all  lie  one  wTay.  Before  pressing 
the  goods  run  over  a  plate  perforated  with  holes  to 
allow  escape  of  steam,  which  passes  through  the  cloth 
and  softens  and  warms  and  damps  slightly,  and  im- 
mediately afterward  under  the  press  cylinder.  These 
conditions  must  be  met  as  nearly  as  possible  when 
woollen  clothes  or  garments  are  "done  over"  at  home, 
whether  it  is  simply  pressing  a  pair  of  pants  that 
have  never  been  wet,  or  whether  it  is  some  garment 
that  has  been  scoured  or  washed,  or  whether  in 
addition  the  garment  has  been  redyed.  The  en- 
deavor should  be  always  as  soon  as  the  scouring  or 
any  process  that  wets  the  goods  is  finished,  to  pull 
and  stretch  the  garment  to  as  nearly  as  possible  its 
proper  shape  and  keep  it  there  until  quite  dry. 
Then  as  steam  is  necessary  the  expedient  is  resorted 


158 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


to  of  pressing  under  a  damp  cloth,  the  object  being 
that  the  damp  of  the  cloth  is  quickly  converted  into 
steam  by  the  heat  of  the  iron  and  forced  down,  into 
and  through  its  substance,  softening  it  at  once  so  it 
may  be  pushed  and  pulled  under  the  iron  to  exactly 
the  shape  it  should  have.  This  is  not  all,  however, 
that  is  necessary.  It  must  be  pressed  and  kept 
pressed  until  quite  dry  and  all  steam  ceases  to  rise 
from  it  when  the  cloth  is  lifted.  To  this  end  the 
damp  cloth  is  exchanged  for  dry  ones  and  the  pressing- 
continued  until  perfectly  dry.  Garments  pressed  in 
this  way  keep  their  shape,  if  they  ever  had  any,  and 
preserve  their  lustre  (press  finish)  for  weeks,  where 
if  let  to  go  but  partly  dried  and  still  smoking  under 
the  iron  they  would  become  wrinkled  and  cockly 
in  two  or  three  days.  A  worn  old  piece  of  canvas, 
soft  from  much  use,  is  best  for  dampening  and  laying 
on  over  the  goods;  less  flexible  ones  may  be  used 
to  press  with  for  drying  out  the  work,  and  as  the 
softer  ones  wear  out,  take  the  next  softest  and  replace 
it  and  use  the  newest  ones  only  for  the  final  passing 
of  the  iron.  Home  flatirons  are  nearly  useless  to 
press  heavy-men's-wear  goods.  The  heavier  the  iron 
the  better,  as  big  as  the  operator  can  handle,  20  lbs. 
or  more.  Pressure  upon  a  small  flat  is  a  help,  but  the 
pressure  is  not  backed  up  with  the  proper  volume 
and  lasting  quantity  of  heat  to  do  good  work.  With 
a  proper  goose,  and  care  to  lay  the  nap  well,  press 
carefully  to  shape  and  dry  under  the  iron  in  that 
position;  there  is  no  reason  why  the  done-over  suit 
should  not  look  as  perfect  in  shape  as  when  new. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


159 


If  faded  and  threadbare  even,  it  will  still  have  a 
presentable  appearance,  and  no  one  need  feel  ashamed 
to  appear  in  it  until  actually  ragged.  It  is  a  fact 
that  the  person  having  but  few  clothes,  but  taking 
good  and  intelligent  care  of  them,  gets  more  genuine 
satisfaction  from  his  or  her  dressed  appearance  than 
the  person  with  new  suits  every  month  thrown  care- 
lessly by.  Associations  should  make  garments 
prized,  as  well  as  any  other  object,  and  your  neighbor 
will  enjoy  your  company  and  conversation  quite  as 
well  in  the  done-over  suit  that  he  may  know  you 
helped  your  wife  or  sister  to  put  in  order. 

The  Effect  of  Previous  Mordants  in  Garment-Dyeing. 

It  is  not  at  all  easy  to  say  what  mordants  have, 
or  have  not,  been  used  in  the  dyeing  of  a  garment 
by  the  manufacturers  that  produced  the  cloth.  If 
it  is  an  all-wool  garment,  all  one  color,  it  may  be 
assumed  that  it  has  a  mordant  on  all  the  fibre  com- 
posing it  except,  of  course,  the  linings.  If,  again, 
it  is  all-wool,  but  has  a  number  of  light  and  bright 
overplaidings,  hair  lines,  etc.,  they  may  or  may  not 
have  any  mordant,  and  any  interweavings  of  white 
yarn  or  mix  effects  in  any  part  showing  up  white, 
these  may  be  assumed  to  be  without  any  mordant. 
It  will  be  readily  seen  that  a  somewhat  different 
mode  of  procedure  will  be  necessary,  according  to 
how  much  of  the  component  parts  of  the  garment, 
or  piece  of  cloth,  have  previously  been  mordanted. 
Also  it  will  be  easy  to  understand  that  any  dye  about 


160 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


to  be  applied  having  any  affinity  for  chrome  (or  any 
mordant  chemical)  will  be  first  attracted  by  the 
chromed  fibres,  and  will  be  taken  up  by  them  in  undue 
amount,  and  the  resultant  dyeing  may  be  expected 
to  not  "cover,"  i.e.,  the  light  threads  still  show  up. 
It  will  be  found  too  that  where  green,  red,  and  brown, 
etc.,  threads  or  checks  were  in  the  cloth  that  they 
show  up  still,  even  though  the  whole  has  been  colored 
black.  Where  these  check  effects  are  prominent  it  is 
usually  conceded  that  no  monotint  can  be  secured  un- 
less the  color  from  all  the  fibre  composing  the  garment 
can  first  be  removed,  which  is  seldom  attempted. 
It  is  more  often  that  a  fresh  mordant  bath  is  pre- 
pared and  the  percentage  of  bichromate  made  pretty 
high  that  the  fresh  mordanting  may  not  only  even  up 
the  dye-receiving  condition,  but  also  strip  off  some  of 
the  colors  already  on.  To  this  end  10  and  even  20 
per  cent  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  §  the  amount 
of  oxalic  acid  are  used  in  a  mordant  bath  for  such 
goods.  It  matters  not  whether  the  dye  to  be  used 
is  an  acid,  afterchrome,  regular  mordant,  union, 
monochrome,  or  what-not  color,  the  effect  is  to 
yellow  all  the  wool  material  somewhat  and  to  change 
the  cotton  linings  in  color  according  to  what  they 
have  previously  been  dyed  with.  The  garment  should 
have  been  scoured  previous  to  chroming,  but  any 
spots  are  left  to  see  the  effect  of  the  chroming  upon 
them,  as  usually  they  disappear.  Thousands  of  pieces 
of  cloth  are  sent  out  every  year  by  the  manufac- 
turers that  are  union-dyed,  or  acid-dyed,  and  have 
no  mordant  upon  them.   Burning  the  cloth  to  ashes 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


161 


and  treating  the  ashes  to  water  and  a  drop  of  acid 
will  develop  a  yellow  color  if  chromium  is  present, 
and  if  neutralized  with  a  little  potash,  crystals  of 
bichromate  of  potash  will  form  upon  evaporation. 

Soap-Making. 

Soap  is  a  chemical  combination  of  a  fatty  acid 
with  caustic  lye  the  base  of  which  is  usually  potash 
or  soda;  the  potash  lye  producing  true  soft  soaps 
and  soda  lye  hard  soap. 

Caustic  soda  or  caustic  potash  is  now  readily  ob- 
tainable in  any  quantities  in  the  market.  It  is  fur- 
nished in  drums  into  which  it  was  poured  in  a  molten 
condition,  and  as  hard  as  stone.  It  is  also  furnished 
ready  crushed  to  about  the  size  of  a  grain  of  barley, 
and  simply  needs  to  be  dissolved  in  water  to  the 
proper  strength  for  soap-making. 

Formerly  each  soap-boiler  causticized  his  own  lyes, 
and  employed  3  strengths  of  lye,  one  of  about  25°  to 
30°  Baume,  another  of  12°  to  18°  Baume,  and  a  third 
of  2°  to  5°  Baume.  The  causticizing  was  done  thus: 
One  part  of  quicklime,  slaked  by  sprinkling  on  just 
sufficient  water  to  crumble  it,  was  added  to  3  parts 
of  soda  carbonate  in  5  parts  of  water.  If  potash, 
the  same  weights  and  proportions  were  adhered  to. 
Stir  the  mixture  and  allow  it  to  settle.  The  clear 
liquor  is  poured  off  and  constitutes  the  first,  or  strong 
lye,  25°  to  30°  Baume.  By  adding  successively  5  parts 
of  water  to  the  sediment  from  the  first,  a  second  and 
third  lye  was  obtained,  the  final  washings  being  used 
11 


162 


•  THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


to  start  a  fresh  lot.  The  second  and  third  lyes  are 
strong  enough  for  general  purposes.  Twenty  lbs.  fat 
are  melted  in  an  iron  boiler  and  kept  at  a  moderate 
heat,  stirring  in  a  little  at  a  time  of  third  lye,  10  lbs. ; 
after  about  an  hour  let  the  mixture  get  up  to  boiling- 
point  and  stir  in  by  degrees  10  lbs.  second  lye.  This 
completes  the  first  stage,  which  is  termed  sponifica- 
tion.  The  next  step,  "  cutting  up  the  pan,"  is  to  add 
by  degrees  a  mixture  of  soda  and  lye  containing 
2  or  3  lbs.  common  salt.  This  separates  out  the  excess 
of  water  from  the  curd,  leaving  a  soapy  paste;  boil 
and  stir  for  some  time,  settle,  and  draw  off  from  the 
bottom  the  water,  which  is  usually  quite  colored. 
The  third  operation,  called  clearboiling,  has  now  to 
be  performed.  Stir  now  into  the  paste  by  degrees 
5  lbs.  of  first  lye;  and,  when  perfectly  mixed  and 
smooth,  boil  for  2  hours;  if  the  soap  meanwhile 
should  become  too  liquid,  as  may  happen  if  too  weak 
a  lye  has  been  used,  some  salt,  or  weak  lye  containing 
salt,  is  added.  The  boiling  is  terminated  when  large, 
regular,  dry  scales  appear  on  the  top;  when  this  is 
the  case  let  it  settle  and  draw  off  the  liquid  from  the 
bottom.  Put  the  soap  into  frames  lined  with  cotton 
cloth  which  has  been  well  powdered  with  lime  and 
starch,  and  as  soon  as  the  soap  is  firm  cut  and  lay 
it  out  to  dry.  No  salt  is  added  in  making  soft 
soap  and  no  separation  of  any  of  the  liquid  takes 
place.  The  whole  is  used,  and  care  must  be  exer- 
cised that  just  enough  caustic  lye  is  used  to  make 
the  soap  and  not  leave  an  unused  excess  to  injure 
the  hands. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


163 


Filled  Soaps. 

Hard  soaps  are  usually  made  by  the  process  just 
described,  with  some  slight  variations,  the  excess  of 
water  being  separated  from  the  paste  by  the  use  of 
salt.  That  class  of  soap  is  termed  grained  soap, 
but  there  are  some  kinds  of  soap,  cocoanut  oil  and 
soda  soap,  for  instance,  that  are  so  hard  by  nature 
that  " salting  out"  is  unnecessary,  the  water  remain- 
ing in  the  paste.  Soaps  of  this  class  are  called  filled 
soaps.  It  is  apparent  that  all  soft  soaps  are  of  this 
class. 

Cocoanut-Oil  Soap. 

Put  100  lbs.  cocoanut  oil  and  100  lbs.  soda  lye  of 
27°  Baume  into  a  soap  kettle.  Boil  and  mix  thor- 
oughly for  1  to  2  hours,  until  the  paste  gradually  thick- 
ens, then  diminish  the  heat,  but  continue  the  stirring 
until  the  cooling  paste  becomes  a  white,  half-solid 
mass.  Then  transfer  quickly  to  the  frames.  Equal 
parts  of  tallow  and  cocoanut  oil  will  make  a  very 
fine  filled  soap.  Cocoanut  oil  mixed  with  any  fats, 
if  in  not  too  large  a  proportion,  will  produce  filled 
soaps. 

Home-Made  Caustic  Soda. 

Dissolve  6  lbs.  common  washing  soda  in  4  gallons 
warm  water.  Slack  6  lbs.  quicklime  in  just  enough 
water  to  crumble  to  powder,  add  the  slaked  lime  to 
the  soda  solution,  and  stir  the  two  together  and  add 
4  gallons  boiling  water.  Stir  thoroughly  and  let  settle, 
and  use  the  clear. 


164 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Home-Made  Hard  Soap. 

To  the  above  lye  in  a  clean  iron  kettle  add  12  lbs. 
clarified  grease,  stirring  in  at  the  same  time  4  ozs. 
powdered  borax;  let  it  boil  until  it  becomes  thick 
and  ropy.  Have  in  readiness  a  tight  box  and  piece  of 
muslin  large  enough  to  lay  over  the  sides  to  allow 
the  contents  of  the  box  being  conveniently  lifted  out. 
Pour  the  contents  of  the  kettle  into  the  box  and  let 
it  stand  a  few  days.  Remove  from  the  box  and  cut 
with  a  wire  into  bars.  Soap  thus  made  and  left  to 
harden  will  become  fit  for  use  in  a  month. 

Home-Made  Soft  Soap. 

Wood  ashes  mixed  with  slaked  lime  are  leached 
by  packing  into  a  barrel  or  other  receptacle  lined 
with  straw.  The  packing  should  be  rather  harder 
toward  the  outside  than  the  centre,  but  all  should 
be  packed  quite  firm  so  the  water  used  will  not  pass 
too  quickly  through  the  leach.  If  the  leach  is  properly 
set  up  the  first  lye  coming  through  from  hardwood 
ashes  is  very  strong,  if  the  ashes  are  fresh.  Ashes 
should  be  stored  away  from  air  and  damp.  If  a 
potato  will  float,  the  lye  is  good.  Fill  a  kettle  f  full 
of  the  lye  and  add  to  it,  a  ladleful  at  a  time,  melted 
fat,  stirring  continually  until  a  perfect  ring  can  be 
made  on  the  surface  with  the  stick.  Let  the  fire  go 
out,  and  the  soap  cool.  Any  lye  that  separates  may 
be  poured  off  by  tilting  the  kettle.  The  leach  must 
be  set  high  enough  to  allow  of  some  vessel  being  set 
to  catch  the  lye,  and  about      as  much  lime  used  as 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


165 


ashes;  if  the  last  run  of  the  leach  is  too  weak,  boil 
it  down  until  a  potato  will  float  on  the  cooled  lye. 

Toilet  Soaps. 

To  this  class  belong  the  finer  kinds  of  scented  soaps, 
which  have  emollient  properties.  They  are  rarely 
made  by  the  perfumer,  the  body  or  basis  being  a  well- 
selected  white  soap  subsequently  to  be  cleaned  and 
purified.  For  the  choicer  grades  olive  and  sweet- 
almond  oil  should  be  selected,  as  the  fat,  lard,  and 
beef  tallow  make  the  next  best  grade,  and,  for  palm- 
oil  soap,  a  small  quantity  of  bleached  palm  oil  is 
added  to  tallow  or  lard.  Cocoa  oil  and  pale  rosin  also 
enter  into  the  composition  of  certain  toilet  soaps. 
These  body  soaps  may  be  obtained  as  wanted  from 
any  well-ordered  soap  factory.  To  be  adapted  to 
the  purposes  of  the  perfumer  they  must  be  neutral, 
firm,  free  from  unpleasant  odor  and  all  tendency  to 
crust  or  effloresce  in  cold  or  dry  weather,  or  sweat  in 
damp  weather.  They  should,  moreover,  give  a  rich 
lather  without  wasting  too  much  or  rapidly  in  the 
water.  Soaps  in  their  original  condition  are  apt 
to  be  deficient  in  some  of  these  points,  and  must  first, 
for  the  purposes  of  the  perfumer,  undergo  a  refining 
process.  The  soap  as  purchased  in  bars  or  blocks  is 
piled  upon  the  shelf  of  the  rasping-machine,  and 
placed  in  the  hopper,  and  as  the  wheel  revolves  knives 
come  against  the  soap  and  cut  it  into  meal,  which 
falls  into  a  reception  box  underneath.  In  this  state 
it  melts  very  readily  and  is  transferred  to  a  steam 
bath  and  mixed  with  rose  and  orange-flower  water, 


166 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


of  each  J  gallon  to  every  100  lbs.  of  rasped  soap. 
The  kettle  is  steam-jacketed,  arid  when  steam  is 
turned  on  the  soap  gradually  melts  and  must  be 
"crutched"  with  a  stick  having  a  cross  or  board  upon 
its  end  until  a  paste  of  uniform  consistency  is  ob- 
tained. It  is  now  allowed  to  cool,  but  is  again  melted 
without  addition  of  rose  water  and  crutched  as  before. 
When  there  are  several  kinds  of  soap  to  be  used  in 
one  blend,  each  must  be  rasped,  melted,  and  crutched 
separately,  or  added  one  at  a  time  successively  and 
crutched  constantly  to  effect  an  even  mixture.  When 
the  paste  is  nearly  cool,  coloring  matters  may  be 
added,  and  lastly  the  perfume,  to  avoid  as  much  as 
possible  loss  by  evaporation  from  the  hot  paste. 
When  extracts  or  bouquets  are  used  they  must  be 
added  direct  to  the  meal  and  forcibly  incorporated 
by  kneading  with  the  hands  or  passing  repeatedly 
between  marble  rollers.  Any  application  of  heat 
would  occasion  loss  of  perfume  and  impair  the  odor. 
The  soap  is  now  ready  for  the  rectangular  well,  made 
of  wooden  frames  set  one  upon  another,  called  cooling 
frames.  In  a  day  or  two  it  is  hard  enough  to  be 
cut  into  tablets  the  size  of  each  frame;  these  are  set 
up  edgewise  and  allowed  to  dry  for  several  days  and 
then  barred  by  means  of  wire.  The  height  of  the  lifts 
make  the  length  of  the  bar  and  the  gauges  of  the  wire 
the  width,  and  made  to  cut  any  required  number 
to  the  pound.  The  bars  are  divided  into  tablets, 
which  are  pressed  to  give  them  solidity,  and  to  orna- 
ment the  surface  with  any  appropriate  device,  the 
maker's  name,  etc.    The  shape  of  the  mould  deter- 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


167 


mines  the  form  of  the  finished  cake.  The  press  is  of 
ordinary  construction,  operated  by  hand  or  foot, 
or  may  be  a  hammer  giving  vertical  blows  of  constant 
force.  A  spiral  spring  throws  each  cake  from  the 
die-box  as  soon  as  the  pressure  is  removed. 

Floating  Soaps. 

All  the  hard  soaps  increase  in  bulk  by  mechanical 
beating  of  the  paste.  The  loss  of  density  thus  pro- 
duced gives  them  the  property  of  floating  in  water. 
The  beating  is  best  accomplished  by  a  churn  twirl 
rotating  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan  and  operated  by 
a  handle.  Expose  5  lbs.  olive-oil  soap  to  a  steam  or 
water  heat  along  with  If  pints  of  soft  water,  and 
beat  up  the  mixture  until  it  has  doubled  its  volume. 
It  may  be  colored  and  scented  at  the  same  time. 
When  beaten  enough  pour  it  into  a  cold  frame.  Cool 
quickly,  and  when  hard  cut  it  into  bars  or  cakes. 
This  soap  floats  on  water,  but  will  not  bear  much 
soaking,  as  it  rapidly  softens. 

Transparent  Soap. 

This  is  made  by  dissolving  hard  white  soap,  pre- 
viously reduced  to  meal  and  thoroughly  dried,  in 
alcohol.  A  steam  bath  fitted  with  a  still  head  makes 
a  good  containing  vessel.  Alcohol  and  soap  are 
taken  in  about  equal  parts  and  as  the  solution  pro- 
ceeds any  alcohol  that  comes  over  in  the  condenser 
is  saved.  The  heat  should  not  exceed  212°  Fahr. 
Time  is  allowed  for  settling,  after  which  the  clear 
fluid  is  drawn  off  into  wooden  frames,  or  britannia 


168 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


metal  globes  if  desired  to  make  it  into  balls.  Previous 
to  settling  it  may  be  colored  with  alcoholic  tinctures 
of  alkanet  for  red,  chlorophyll  for  green,  turmeric  for 
yellow,  etc.  Transparent  soap  is  only  translucent 
when  first  made,  and  only  becomes  clear  when  per- 
fectly dry.  The  perfumes  are  the  same  as  other  soaps. 

Glycerine  Soap. 

Any  mild  toilet  soap  with  which  about  of  its 
weight  of  glycerine  has  been  incorporated  while  in 
the  melted  state.  It  rs  generally  tinted  red  or  rose 
color  with  a  little  tincture  of  archil  or  dragon's  blood, 
or  orange  with  annatto.  It  is  variously  scented,  berga- 
mot  or  rose  geranium,  supported  by  oil  of  cassia,  being 
common. 

White  Windsor  Soap. 

Genuine  old  white  Windsor  is  made  from  a  body 
of  which  lard  and  olive  oil  is  the  stock,  and  attars  of 
caraway,  lavender,  and  rosemary  the  perfume.  Mod- 
ern Windsor  soap  is  made  from  fine  white  curd  soap 
115  lbs.,  cocoanut-oil  soap  20  lbs.,  perfumed  with 
attar  of  caraway  1|  lbs.,  attars  of  thyme  and  rose- 
mary 8  ozs.  each,  and  attars  of  cloves  and  cassia  of 
each  4  ozs. 

Brown  Windsor  Soap. 

Curd  soap,  100  lbs.;  cocoanut-oil  soap  and  pale 
yellow  rosin  soap  of  each  25  lbs. ;  color  with  caramel 
8  ozs.,  and  perfume  with  attars  of  caraway,  cloves, 
thyme,  cassia,  petit  grain  and  lavender  of  each  1  oz. 
Oleic  soap  of  first  grade  is  peculiarly  adapted  as  a 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


169 


body  for  brown  Windsor,  as  it  gives  a  rich  lather, 
is  very  smooth  and  highly  emollient,  and  holds  its 
normal  moisture  for  a  very  long  time. 

Honey  Soap. 

White  curd  soap,  40  lbs. ;  melted  and  crutched  with 
white  honey,  10  lbs.;  storax,  2  lbs.,  and  powdered 
benzoin,  1  lb. 

Sulphur  Soap. 

White  curd  or  Castile  soap,  fresh  made,  \  lb.,  1  oz. 
fine  well-washed  flowers  of  sulphur,  1  oz.  rectified 
spirits  (alcohol)  colored  with  alkanet,  and  sufficient 
attar  of  roses  to  strongly  scent  the  mass.  Beat  the 
whole  together  in  a  marble  or  Wedgwood  mortar 
until  it  is  a  smooth,  even  paste.  Its  daily  use  tends 
to  render  the  skin  fair  and  smooth.  The  alcohol  and 
color  may  be  omitted  at  will.  Highly  recommended 
in  various  skin  diseases. 

Caution  in  Using  Medicated  Soaps. 

Before  using  mercurial  or  sulphur  soaps,  finger 
rings,  ear  rings,  and  bracelets  of  gold,  etc.,  should  be 
removed  and  not  replaced  until  a  short  time  after 
the  skin  is  again  dry;  otherwise  they  may  become 
tarnished,  or  even  corroded.  The  same  applies  to 
all  other  cosmetics  containing  sulphur  or  mercury. 

Whale-Oil  Soap  to  Destroy  Insects. 

Boil  any  quantity  of  whale-oil  foots  with  sufficient 
caustic  lye  to  make  it  into  soap.  Pour  off  into  moulds 


170 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


and,  when  cold,  it  is  tolerably  hard.  Whale-oil  foots 
is  the  sediment  from  refining  whale  oil. 

Carbolic-Acid  Soap. 

Freshly-made  cocoanut-oil  soap,  150  parts;  fuse, 
then  add  a  solution  of  caustic  potassa,  2  parts;  oil  of 
lemon,  1  part;  and  carbolic  acid,  6  parts;  alcohol,  10 
parts.   To  be  poured  into  moulds. 

Mercurial  Soap. 

Crushed  corrosive  sublimate,  1  drachm;  alcohol  to 
dissolve,  about  1  oz.;  powdered  Castile  soap,  4  ozs. 
Beat  them  to  a  uniform  mass  in  a  Wedgwood  mortar 
and  perfume  with  attar  of  roses  or  oil  of  cassia  and 
oil  of  bitter  almonds.  Nothing  metallic  must  touch  it. 
This  has  been  recommended  in  various  skin  diseases. 

Glycerine-Soap  Balls. 

To  any  recently  made  toilet  soap,  sliced,  and 
melted  without  water,  if  possible,  add  pure  glycerine 
1  oz.  to  the  pound;  thoroughly  incorporate,  until 
the  mass  has  become  cool  and  make  at  once  into  balls. 

Sand-Soap  Balls. 

Melt  recently  made  best  yellow  soap  with  or  without 
J  of  its  weight  of  white  soft  soap  and  a  little  sweet  oil, 
and  add  \  the  weight  of  the  melt  of  finely  powdered 
pumice  stone,  marble  dust,  fine  sifted  washed  sand,  etc. 
Used  for  scouring  purposes  and  for  dirty,  hard  work 
generally,  and  to  prevent  roughening  and  thickening 
of  the  skin  in  cold  weather.   Nothing  equal  to  it  for 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


171 


lavatory  work,  greasy  saucepans  and  any  earthen 
ware  that  gets  a  film  of  smear  not  readily  removed 
by  soap  and  water. 

Spermaceti  Soap. 

This  soap,  though  superior  to  all  others  in  emollient 
properties,  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist  on  the  market, 
owing  to  the  difficulty  of  saponifying  it.  As  vended 
it  consists  of  white  curd  soap  14  lbs.,  perfumed  with 
a  mixture  of  attar  of  bergamot  2|  ozs.  and  attar 
of  lemon  8  ozs. 

Musk  Soap. 

Best  tallow  soap  30  lbs.,  palm-oil  soap  20  lbs., 
Spanish  brown  4  ozs.,  essence  of  musk  3 \  ozs.,  and 
a  little  attar  of  cloves  and  rose  water,  and  3J  ozs. 
attar  of  bergamot. 

Gold  Soaps. 

Although  the  commoner  soaps  are  usually  made  by 
boiling,  they  can  be  made  by  the  cold  process  if 
desired,  and  the  fats  used  may  be  the  same  in  both 
methods.  The  cold  or  "little-pan"  process  is,  how- 
ever, almost  exclusively  used  for  making  fancy  or 
toilet  soaps,  and  for  these  purposes  the  fats  require 
to  be  very  pure  and  odorless  or  to  undergo  a  purifica- 
tion process  where  any  delicate  scent  is  to  be  used 
in  perfuming.  The  lye  used  for  saponification  must 
be  much  stronger  than  that  used  in  the  boiling  process 
and  should  be  entirely  clear  and  colorless;  36°  to  40° 
Baume  is  the  strength  usually  employed. 

Incorporate  by  degrees  50  lbs.  caustic  soda  lye, 


172  THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 

36°  Baume,  with  100  lbs.  fat  at  a  temperature  not 
higher  than  104°  Fahr.  Continue  to  stir  with  a  broad 
paddle  until  a  complete  ring  can  be  drawn  on  the 
surface.  With  scented  soaps,  the  perfumes  must 
now  be  stirred  in.  The  paste  is  now  put  into  the 
frames  having  broad  cotton-cloth  linings  so  that  when 
the  frame  is  completely  full  there  shall  yet  remain 
sufficient  of  the  cloth  to  completely  cover  the  soap. 
The  frames  are  now  covered  with  a  wooden  cover 
and  left  12  hours,  during  which  time  the  temperature 
will  rise  considerably,  producing  completely  the 
saponification.  When  cool  the  soap  is  cut,  pressed, 
etc.,  in  the  usual  way.  The  degree  of  hardness  of 
the  soap  will  depend  upon  the  sort  of  fat  used.  Very 
hard  fats,  like  tallow,  must  be  melted  previous  to 
incorporating  the  lye,  and  require  mechanical  means 
to  stir  in  the  caustic  soda.  With  cotton-seed  foots 
containing  much  water  the  stirring  is  easy  and  may 
be  done  with  a  hoe,  like  mortar-mixing,  and  the  lye 
may  be  less  in  proportion  to  the  water  in  the  foots, 
but  should  be  rather  stronger  than  36°  Baume, 
mixed  in  a  mortar  box,  covered  with  old  sacking  for 
a  couple  of  days  to  ripen.  This  cotton-seed  soap  is 
largely  made  and  used  in  textile  mills. 

Washing-Soap. 

A  mixture  of  60  lbs.  tallow  or  30  lbs.  each  of  tallow 
and  palm  oil,  with  40  lbs.  cocoanut  oil  treated  by 
the  cold  process  with  125  lbs.  caustic  soda  lye  of  27° 
Baume  and  25  lbs.  of  salt  water  of  12°  Baume  will 
turn  out  244  lbs.  washing-soap. 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


173 


Gold-Made  Soft  Soap. 

Soft  soap  by  the  cold  process  is  identical  with  soft 
soap  by  the  boiling  method.  Potash  lye  must  be  used 
and  will  always  be  pasty  or  gelatinous  if  the  lye  is 
free  from  soda.  Shaving  creams  are  usually  made 
by  this  process,  using  white  clean  lard  and  caustic 
potash,  with  some  alcohol  to  give  it  the  proper  con- 
sistency, and  perfume  it  well.  To  J  lb.  white  soft  soap 
add  2  fluid  drachms  liquor  of  potassa  and  1  pint  of 
alcohol.  Put  into  a  strong  bottle  and  agitate  well 
and  keep  in  a  warm  place  until  solution  is  complete. 
After  settling  pour  off  the  clear.  If  not  transparent 
add  some  more  alcohol  before  decanting,  and  at  any 
time,  if  too  thick,  it  may  be  thinned  with  alcohol 
or  proof  spirit.  If  much  essential  oil  be  added  to  per- 
fume it  the  cream  will  not  be  so  clear. 

Grease-Removing  Liquids  for  Textiles. 

The  nature  of  a  liquid  for  this  purpose  must  be  such 
that,  when  applied  to  the  greasy,  oily,  resinous,  or 
tarry  spot  upon  the  textile,  it  shall  soften  and  mingle 
with  it  by  rubbing,  or  simply  by  contact.  This  is  a 
prime  requisite,  but  it  is  not  all  that  is  needed.  There 
must  also  be  the  property  after  the  spot  is  softened 
that  will  allow  of  some  rinsing-fluid,  usually  and 
preferably  cold  water,  being  applied  to  rinse  the 
cleansing-liquid  together  with  what  it  has  removed 
from  the  textile,  completely  away.  A  further  req- 
uisite is  that  it  shall  contain  no  chemical  that  will 
destroy  or  attack  to  an  appreciable  degree  either  the 


174 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


fibre  composing  the  textile,  or  any  coloring-matter 
that  has  been  applied  to  it  in  its  manufacture.  A 
very  great  number  of  formulas  would  be  required  if 
it  were  undertaken  to  enumerate  the  varieties  of 
textiles  and  their  colorings,  and  state  specifically  in 
each  and  every  case  exactly  a  liquid  compound  that 
was  the  limit  of  strength  admissible  in  each  and  every 
case.  However,  it  may  be  said  that  the  more  nearly 
neutral  the  detergent  liquid  may  be,  the  less  risk  of 
injury  to  the  textile,  either  in  texture  or  color.  Many 
textiles  are  changed  in  color  by  water  alone.  They 
are  inexpensive  fabrics,  as  a  rule;  yet  very  many 
silks  "spot"  with  water,  and  if  wet  at  all  must  be 
wet  all  over  in  order  that  all  may  be  changed  alike 
and  equally.  In  such  goods,  when  greasy  spots  occur, 
removing  the  grease  will  invariably  leave  a  changed 
place,  but  if  in  addition  to  treating  the  spot  the  whole 
article  can  be  treated,  even  in  lesser  degree,  the 
change  is  blended  in  outline  at  least,  and  becomes 
much  less  noticeable.  White  goods,  of  course,  are 
in  very  much  less  degree,  if  at  all,  subject  to  spotting 
from  water  or  liquids  used  to  clean  them,  except  as 
to  the  starching  and  lustring;  it  is  therefore  not 
necessary  to  discriminate  very  closely  in  the  nature 
of  detergents  used  on  them,  so  long  as  it  will  remove 
the  spot  and  not  act  too  energetically  upon  the  fibre 
of  the  fabric.  All  that  class  of  detergent  liquids  that 
combine  with  neutral  soap,  that  is,  will  act  as  a  sol- 
vent for  soap  or  soap  powders,  and  are  solvents  for 
grease  or  although  not  solvents  for  soap,  are  solvents 
for  grease  and  with  soap  are  miscible  with  water, 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


175 


and  further,  are  neutral,  may  be  safely  used  on  any 
and  all  fabrics  and  colors.  Soaps  in  combination  with 
chloroform,  carbon  tetrachloride,  ether,  alcohol, 
benzine,  naphtha,  gasoline,  etc.,  are  quite  harmless 
anyway,  while  formulae  combining  with  soap,  am- 
monia, sodium  carbonate,  sodium  hydrate,  potash 
in  any  of  its  alkaline  salts,  borax,  lime,  or  lime  water, 
are  to  be  used  with  caution.  Not  that  they  are  not 
good,  but  that  they  may,  from  their  alkaline  or  caustic 
nature,  do  harm.  The  tongue  and  nose  are  nature's 
laboratory.  A  liquid  smelling  strongly  of  ammonia, 
or  when  touched  to  the  tongue  "bites,"  is  to  be 
used  only  where  possibilities  of  doing  injury  to  fibre 
or  color  are  rather  remote. 

Small  Spots  on  Broadcloth. 

Mix  ozs.  pipeclay  with  18  drops  of  alcohol  and 
18  drops  spirits  of  turpentine.  Rub  the  spots  with 
the  mixture  and  dab  a  little  of  the  dry  clay  on  the 
opposite  side.  Allow  to  dry  and  then  rub  off  and 
beat  out  the  clay. 

To  Glean  Spots  from  Black  Cloth. 

Dissolve  1  oz.  of  bicarbonate  of  ammonia  (smelling- 
salts)  in  1  quart  of  warm  water,  and  rub  the  cloth 
with  this  fluid  by  means  of  a  black  stocking,  or  dark- 
colored  cloth  of  any  kind.  Rinse  in  same  way  with 
cold  water,  brushing  in  each  case  the  way  of  the  nap, 
then  dry  and  press.  This  mixture  is  volatile  even  if 
not  rinsed  out,  and  therefore  eliminates  any  danger 


176 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


of  leaving  some  substance  behind  that  may  catch 
dust  and  look  badly  after  a  time. 

Cloth-Cleaning  Compound. 

Mix  together  1  oz.  glycerine,  1  oz.  sulphuric  ether, 
1  oz.  alcohol,  4  ozs.  ammonia,  1  oz.  of  Castile  soap, 
then  add  water  to  make  1  quart.  Rub  the  cloth  with 
liquid  and  rinse  well  out.  If  the  color  is  very  delicate, 
omit  the  ammonia. 

Lightning  Eradicator. 

Mix  together  thoroughly  and  allow  to  stand  a  few 
days  before  using  4  ozs.  of  strong  liquid  ammonia, 
1  oz.  nitrate  of  potash,  2  ozs.  of  mottled  soap,  in 
shavings.  Cover  grease-spots  with  this  compound, 
rub  well  in,  and  rinse  off  with  water.  Good  on  strong 
colors,  and  removes  grease-spots  very  soon.  Any 
good  soap  shavings  can  be  substituted  for  mottled 
soap. 

Cleansing  Fluid  for  Spots  of  Unknown  Origin,  that 
may  be  either  Acid,  Resin,  Tar,  Wax,  or  Grease. 

One  hundred  parts  of  alcohol,  30  parts  ammonia, 
4  parts  of  benzine.  This  mixture  passes  very  readily 
through  cloth;  therefore  if  the  cloth  be  stretched 
over  a  cup,  plate,  or  any  concave  article,  the  fluid 
may  be  passed  through;  a  little  friction  at  the  worst 
points  hastens  the  work.  If  there  seems  to  be  a  part 
of  the  color  destroyed  after  the  above  treatment, 
try  a  few  drops  of  chloroform  upon  it,  as  it  may 
restore  the  color.  If  a  residue  remains  best  let  the 
whole  dry  and  with  a  few  drops  of  sperm  oil  soften 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


177 


up  tar  or  resin  and  again  wash  with  a  bit  of  soap 
on  a  tooth-brush,  and  rinse  off  with  warm  water. 

Spots  Known  to  be  Grease. 

Melt  8  ozs.  good  curd  soap  in  sufficient  water,  or 
take  equal  weights  of  soft  soap ;  add  1  oz.  of  ox  gall 
and  1  oz.  spirits  of  turpentine  and  fuller's  earth 
enough  to  allow  of  being  made  into  balls  or  cakes; 
moisten  the  grease-spot  and  rub  the  balls  or  cakes 
upon  it.  Allow  to  dry;  brush  and  rinse  off  and  rub 
some  as  the  spot  is  getting  dry. 

Cleaning  Compound. 

Four  ozs.  soft  soap,  20  ozs.  proof  spirit,  and  20  ozs. 
water.  Proof  spirit  is  equal  volumes  of  absolute 
alcohol  and  water.  Therefore  12  ozs.  of  alcohol  and 
30  ozs.  of  water  would  come  near  enough.  Ordinary 
gin  is  a  close  approximation  to  proof  spirit,  is  clear, 
and  the  scent  of  juniper  is  no  objection  or  detriment. 
In  fact,  gin  is  often  recommended  in  cleaning  com- 
pounds, and  for  black  silk  is  highly  recommended. 
The  black  silk  is  simply  sponged  off  with  a  clean 
sponge  dipped  in  gin. 

Directions  for  Dyeing  Feathers. 

Cleanse  the  feathers  first  in  warm  water  at  100°  to 
120°,  containing  a  little  soda,  ammonia,  or  carbonate 
of  ammonia,  and  allow  to  remain  in  this  bath  until 
the  grease  has  been  entirely  removed,  i.e.,  until  they 
are  absorptive.  Oftentimes  feathers  are  cleaned  in 
cold  water  containing  soda,  to  which  a  little  pow- 
dered starch  has  been  added. 
12 


178 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Feathers  are  bleached  in  a  similar  manner  to  wool, 
with  peroxide  of  hydrogen,  or  peroxide  of  soda. 

Feathers  are  usually  dyed  with  acid  dyestuffs  (acid 
colors),  seldom  with  basic  dyestuffs. 

With  Acid  Dyestuffs  (Acid  Colors). 

Dye  the  well-cleaned  feathers  in  a  bath  just  below 
the  boil  for  §  hour,  or  for  \  hour  at  the  boil,  with  the 
requisite  quantity  of  acid  color  and  the  addition  of 
5  per  cent  of  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  144° 
Twaddell. 

With  Basic  Colors. 

Dye  the  well-cleaned  feathers  at  100°  to  120°  Fahr. 
in  the  well-dissolved  basic  color.  It  is  well  to  dry 
the  feathers  after  dyeing  in  a  rotating-machine. 

List  of  Acid  Colors. 

(From  the  Elberfeld  Co.) 

Reds. 
Acid  magenta, 
Brilliant  croceine  3  B, 
Carmoisin  3  B, 
Eosine  S  extra  bluish, 
Fast  red  A, 

Rhodamine  B,  G,  B  extra,  G  extra. 

Orange. 
Croceine  orange  G, 
Eosine  S  extra  yellowish, 
Mandarine  G, 
Orange  11  B,  GT. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


179 


Yellow. 

Quinoline  yellow, 
Indian  yellow  G  R, 
Naphthol  yellow  S. 

Green. 
Acid  green  3  B,  B  B  N,  G  G. 

Blues. 

Alizarine  blue  SAP, 
Brilliant  wool  blue  B  extra, 
New  patent  blue  B,  4  B,  G  A, 
Wool  blue  N  extra,  R  extra. 

Violets. 

Acid  violet  3  B  extra,  4  B  extra,  B  W. 
Fast  acid  violet  10  B, 
Methyl  violet  B. 

Browns. 

Bismarck  acid  brown, 
Bronze  acid  brown, 
Dark  acid  brown, 
Fast  brown. 

Blacks. 

Acid  black  4  B  L,  L  D, 
Feather  black  T  B  extra  21911, 
Wool  black  N4B. 


180 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Leather  Bleaching. 

Three  methods  are  employed  for  leather  bleaching: 
oxidation,  reduction,  and  acid  bleaching.  There  is  a 
topping  process  in  addition  to  the  real  bleaching  pro- 
cesses, a  method,  that  is,  of  hiding  a  color  instead  of 
bleaching  or  stripping.  It  goes  without  saying  that 
in  many  cases  the  actual  process  is  a  combination 
of  two  or  more  of  these  processes,  or  typical  methods. 
The  oxidation  bleach  is  the  favorite  with  chamois 
and  skins  of  furred  animals.  Reduction  bleach  is 
used  for  the  same  articles  to  a  less  extent.  Ordinary 
leather  is  generally  acid-bleached. 

Oxidation  Bleach. 

The  oldest  of  these  methods  is  grass  bleaching,  but 
the  great  time  it  requires  has  caused  bleaching  with 
peroxide  of  hydrogen,  or  sodium,  which  from  this 
point  of  view  may  be  regarded  as  concentrated 
sunlight,  to  replace  it  in  a  very  large  measure.  Leather 
tanned  with  vegetable  tannin  should  not  be  bleached 
in  this  way.  It  bleaches  easily  under  this  treatment 
certainly,  but  is  very  apt  to  darken  again  afterward. 
In  using  sodium  peroxide,  the  white  commercial  pow- 
der is  stirred  into  a  J-per-cent  solution  of  oil  of  vitriol 
until  the  liquid  is  just  perceptibly  alkaline.  The 
leather  is  then  soaked  in  the  liquid  until  the  bleaching 
has  reached  the  desired  point.  It  must  be  stirred 
about  occasionally.  Another  bleaching  agent  for 
leather  is  permanganate  of  potassa,  but  it  is  most 
important  to  use  this  in  acid  solution,  as  alkaline 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


181 


permanganate  liquids  tender  the  leather.  This  is  a 
very  favorite  way  in  France  for  bleaching  chamois 
leather.  The  solution  used  is  one  of  2  lbs.  of  per- 
manganate in  200  gallons  of  water,  and  it  is  just 
acidified  with  oil  of  vitriol.  A  sulphurous  acid  (sodi- 
um bisulphite  hydrochloric  acid)  is  often  necessary 
to  free  the  bleached  leather  from  brown  manganese 
oxide  precipitated  upon  it.  No  other  oxidation 
methods  than  these  have  turned  out  to  be  of  any 
value  for  leather. 

Reduction  Bleach. 

This  method  is  in  practice  confined  to  the  use  of 
sulphurous  acid.  It  is  chiefly  carried  out  with  the 
gaseous  oxide,  and  is  generally  used  for  fur  skins. 
The  bleaching  chamber  is  then  worked  exactly  as  in 
straw  or  silk  bleaching.  The  liquid  sulphurous  acid 
bleach  is  prepared  by  dissolving  sodium  bisulphite 
in  weak  hydrochloric  acid;  the  strength  required 
varies  within  wide  limits  and  must  be  adjusted  by  an 
experienced  leather-bleacher.  This  is  the  disadvan- 
tage of  wet  sulphur  bleaching  as  compared  with  the 
use  of  gas.  Whether  the  wet  or  dry  process  has  been 
used,  it  is  most  important  to  remember  that  the  oil 
of  vitriol  formed  in  the  leather  during  the  bleaching, 
which  will  destroy  it  if  left  in  it,  cannot  be  gotten 
rid  of  by  rinsing.  An  alkaline  bath  must  precede 
the  rinsing,  and  if  the  sulphur  bleach  has  not  turned 
out  well,  the  bath  may  well  take  the  form  of  a  weak 
solution  of  sodium  peroxide. 


182 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Acid  Bleach. 

For  this  bleach  the  leather  is  first  freed  from  grease 
with  alkali,  preferably  borax.  A  solution  of  3  lbs. 
of  borax  in  6  gallons  of  water  is  required  for  100  lbs. 
of  leather.  After  working  the  leather  in  this  for  \ 
hour,  it  is  drained,  rinsed,  and  bleached  in  a  4-per-cent 
solution  of  lactic  acid.  The  bleach  takes  another  15 
minutes. 

Topping  Methods 

answer  well  writh  leathers  already  light-colored,  as 
they  do  not  injure  the  leather  as  bleaching  is  apt  to 
do,  even  under  the  most  skilful  hands,  and  are  also 
cheaper.  Dark  colors,  however,  cannot  be  hidden. 
Sugar  of  lead  and  oil  of  vitriol  in  alternate  weak  baths 
are  used,  repeating  until  sulphate  of  lead  is  deposited 
sufficient  to  hide  its  natural  color,  J  to  f-per-cent  solu- 
tions, and  the  leather  must  first  be  freed  from  fat, 
and  the  first  bath  must  be  sugar  of  lead,  also  the  last 
bath,  to  neutralize  the  oil  of  vitriol,  and  saves  much 
rinsing;  of  late  tin  salts  have  been  used  in  conjunction 
with  white  pigments,  such  as  talc,  blanc  fixe,  and 
pipeclay.  These  pigments  are  also  used  alone,  being 
well  rubbed  into  the  leather,  which  is  first  thoroughly 
soaked. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Grease-Stains  from  Paper. 

Scrape  away  with  a  knife  any  smear  thus  remov- 
able. Warm  the  paper  and  lay  a  blotting-paper  upon 
it  and  press  gently  with  a  hot  iron.  Traces  remaining 
are  to  be  removed  by  hot  turpentine.  Place  the  tur- 
pentine in  a  bottle;  place  the  bottle  containing  the 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


183 


turpentine  in  a  vessel  of  cool  water  and  heat  gradually 
to  boiling.  Lay  the  turpentine  upon  the  stain  on 
each  side,  and  then,  after  a  few  moments,  remove 
the  turpentine  with  alcohol,  by  means  of  a  brush  or 
swab  dipped  repeatedly  in  the  alcohol.  Finally 
restore  the  lustre  and  smoothness  of  the  paper  with 
a  hot  iron. 

Grease-Spot-Remover. 

Four  ozs.  alcohol,  16  ozs.  spirits  of  turpentine,  4  ozs. 
ether.  Mix,  and  keep  well  corked.  Place  a  blotter 
under  the  stain  and  apply  the  fluid  over  the  stain 
with  a  rag  until  the  spot  is  out.  Blot  again  on  both 
sides  with  fresh  blotters  and  dry  in  the  shade,  ex- 
posed freely  to  the  air.  Very  old  stains  of  grease  may 
require  several  applications. 

To  Use  Soap- Wort. 

Twenty-four  parts  of  the  root  and  dried  leaves,  185 
parts  alcohol,  1,700  parts  of  water.  Powder  the  soap- 
root  and  boil  it  in  the  water  15  minutes,  then  put  in 
the  leaves  cut  up  fine  and  boil  2  to  4  hours  and  strain. 
When  cold  add  the  alcohol.  The  fluid  is  used  cold  or 
lukewarm.  Dip  the  stained  part  of  the  fabric  therein 
and  rub  up  a  lather  with  the  hands.  More  especially 
for  silk  goods.  May  be  applied  to  calico  with  a  brush. 
Rinse  well  out  with  cold  water  and  iron  nearly  dry. 

White  Stains  upon  Varnished  Table-Tops. 

Usually,  or  at  least  often,  these  disappear  if  the 
stain  is  smeared  slightly  with  any  oil,  or  better,  with 
oil  containing  some  turpentine.    Dry  powdered  car- 


184 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


bonate  of  soda,  or  sal-soda,  in  fine  powder,  saleratus, 
or  even  lime  in  powder  so  fine  it  won't  scratch,  may 
be  sprinkled  over  the  spots  and  afterward  rubbed 
with  a  cloth  saturated  with  kerosene.  Rub  first 
the  spots  and  then  the  whole  top  and  wipe  and  polish 
with  a  dry  cloth. 

Iron-Rust  Spots. 

Iron  oxide  is  soluble  easily,  or  after  some  time,  in 
1  part  muriatic  acid  to  5  parts  of  water.  If  the  rust 
spot  is  upon  anything  that  is  not  attacked  by  the 
acid,  there  is  no  simpler  method.  Oxalic  acid  has 
similar  solvent  powers  on  iron  oxide,  and  as  it  is  a 
dry  substance,  is  more  convenient  to  keep  in  the 
house,  but  being  poison,  is  unsafe  where  any  child 
or  person  not  responsible  can  have  access  to  it.  Iron 
rust  on  any  white  goods  can  be  safely  treated  with 
muriatic  acid  and  the  acid  rinsed  off  well  afterward. 
On  delicate-colored  things,  the  rust  usually  acts  upon 
the  coloring  compound  also,  and  even  if  the  rust  can 
be  dissolved  out  there  is  a  spot  remaining.  Dry  salt 
and  lemon  juice;  lay  the  salt  just  the  size  of  the  spot 
and  moisten  with  the  lemon  juice;  it  will  slowly 
dissolve  the  rust.  Iron  rust  properly  applied  is  a 
very  permanent  dye,  and  much  used  for  cotton  buff 
(khaki  colors),  and  no  formula  can  be  given  to  remove 
it  from  all  the  many  articles  that  can  become  stained 
with  it  in  the  daily  affairs  of  life.  Two  parts  of  tar- 
taric acid,  1  part  powdered  alum,  laid  on  like  salt 
and  lemon  juice,  are  rather  more  energetic  in  removing 
iron  rust,  and  not  destructive  to  fabrics. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


185 


To  Dye  a  Carpet. 

Carpets  have  been  dyed,  where  badly  faded,  in  the 
following  manner:  First  take  up  the  carpet  and  beat 
thoroughly  either  before  or  after  ripping  the  breadths 
apart.  Then  scrub  and  wash  it  on  a  table  with  a 
brush  and  soap  and  water,  not  driving  any  more 
water  through  than  can  be  avoided.  Let  it  become 
about  half  dry  and  make  up  a  dye  in  a  basin  of  the 
required  color  and,  keeping  it  hot,  scrub  it  into  the 
carpet  as  evenly  and  thoroughly  as  possible.  Do  not, 
however,  try  to  get  the  full  depth  of  color  at  once 
going  over  the  carpet,  but  go  over  it  twice,  and  with 
the  brush  not  too  much  filled  with  the  color,  and  get 
it  as  evenly  distributed  as  possible.  It  should  not 
be  so  soaked  with  the  dye  liquor  as  to  drain  toward 
one  edge  after  being  hung  on  a  line  in  the  shade  to  dry. 
or  that  part  hanging  lowest  will  become  overcharged 
with  the  dye  and  be  too  dark  to  match  the  rest. 

To  Make  Colored  School  Crayons. 

Make  a  solution  of  the  dyeware  of  a  concentration 
about  right  for  use  as  ink.  Use  common  school  soft 
crayons.  Stand  as  many  as  are  needed  in  a  cup  and 
pour  on  the  solution  of  dyeware  to  cover  them,  and 
let  stand  about  10  minutes.  Place  the  wet  crayons 
where  they  will  keep  warm  for  about  12  hours,  or 
over  night.  When  dry  they  are  fit  for  use.  The  dye 
not  absorbed  by  the  crayons  may  be  saved  for 
further  use. 


186 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Colored  Starches. 

Use  a  little  dye  of  the  color  of  the  article  to  be 
starched  in  the  water  in  which  the  starch  is  boiled. 
The  effect  is  to  brighten  the  finished  work  very 
materially. 

To  Dye  Wood. 

Wood  is  very  difficult  to  dye  where  the  pieces 
are  of  any  great  thickness.  Veneers  are  dyed  entirely 
through,  but  the  operation  is  a  very  prolonged  and 
tedious  one.  The  veneers  are  soaked  in  water  for  a 
week  and  a  good  deal  of  slimy  extractive  matter  is 
thus  worked  out.  A  further  treatment  is  to  soak  the 
veneers  in  a  10-per-cent  solution  of  caustic  soda  for 
24  hours  and  then  to  boil  therein  for  \  hour,  whereby 
a  lot  more  of  stuff  comes  out  of  the  wood,  and  the 
texture  is  very  much  softened  and  rendered  as  near 
an  approach  to  pure  cellulose  (the  cotton  fibre)  as 
can  readily  be  arrived  at.  The  dyeing  operations  are 
facilitated  the  more  thoroughly  this  is  done,  but  there 
is  a  limit  to  which  it  can  be  carried  on  account  of  the 
veneers  becoming  brittle  and  tender  when  dry.  The 
quality  of  the  finished  dyeing  of  veneers  is  improved 
by  several  intermediate  dryings  during  the  dyeing 
operation,  and,  where  possible,  should  be  dried  in 
the  open  air.  Some  dyeings  of  veneers  are  so  soft 
and  disintegrated  that  they  must  finally  be  dried 
between  blotting-paper  under  heavy  pressure  to 
retain  their  shape.  The  prepared  veneers  are  well 
washed  before  dyeing.    The  old  method  of  dyeing 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


187 


black  veneers,  still  largely  practised,  is  to  boil  and 
steep  the  prepared  veneers  in  decoctions  of  logwood 
(1  part  logwood  to  3  of  water),  or  solutions  of  log- 
wood extract  for  24  hours,  removing  and  drying 
and  putting  them  in  hot  solutions  of  copperas  (1  part 
copperas  to  30  of  water)  for  another  24  hours.  Acids 
will,  of  course,  turn  this  black  to  red,  which  in  a  short 
time  becomes  a  faded  and  nondescript  shade.  Al- 
kalies in  turn  would  purple  it,  and  fade  eventually 
to  a  yellowish  stain  of  drabby-brown  character.  The 
writer  is  of  opinion  that  the  sulphur  colors  could  be 
used  to  dye  veneers.  They  are  fast  to  all  reagents, 
sunlight,  and  abuse  generally.  The  process  is  carried 
out  in  caustic  soda  solution  and  the  percent  of 
caustic  soda  can  be  any  amount  required.  The  dye 
is  dissolved  in  sodium  bisulphide  (being  insoluble 
in  pure  water)  equal  to  §  or  more  of  the  weight  of 
the  dye,  and  some  bisulphide  is  added  also  to  the  bath. 
In  practice  the  whole  could  be  added  to  the  bath 
and  boiled  until  dissolved.  Salt  equal  to  the  weight 
of  the  veneers  is  added  to  cause  the  bath  to  exhaust 
more  completely.  If  the  veneers  were  thrust  in 
lengthwise  in  a  cage  of  rope  (metals  affect  the  bath 
injuriously)  they  could  be  withdrawn  at  any  time 
for  examination  and  drying  out.  The  bath  is  a 
standing  permanent  one,  and  is  strengthened  from 
time  to  time  as  needed,  and  no  precautions  are 
necessary  to  keep  it  from  spoiling.  The  sulphur 
colors  come  in  red-yellow,  blue,  green,  black,  yel- 
low, etc.,  and  will  combine  with  each  other  to 
make  any  shade. 


188 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Bright  Red  Dye  for  Wood. 

Put  2  lbs.  genuine  Brazilwood  dust  in  4  gallons  of 
water  boiling  hot;  put  in  as  many  veneers  as  the 
liquor  will  hold;  boil  for  3  hours;  then  add  2  ozs. 
alum  and  2  ozs.  of  nitric  acid.  It  is  well  to  lift  the 
veneers,  or  draw  off  the  liquor  and  mix  the  alum  and 
nitric  acid  with  the  bath  and  return  the  veneers  to 
the  bath,  or  the  bath  to  the  veneers,  and  boil  a  short 
time  longer.  Every  day  the  bath  must  be  warmed 
up  until  it  has  struck  through.  This  red  is  fairly  fast 
to  light  and  acids,  and  finishes  well. 

Bright  Yellow  Veneers. 

Persian  berries  1  lb.  per  gallon  of  the  water  required 
in  which  to  boil  the  veneers,  and  boil  until  the  color 
goes  through;  2 ozs.  nitric  acid  are  added  after  3  hours, 
and  help  very  much  to  get  the  color  through.  Closed 
lead  pipes  for  steam  and  wood  vats  are  best  for  dyeing 
veneers  where  nitric  acid  is  used. 

Orange  for  Veneers. 

Combine  the  red  and  yellow  dyes,  and  dye  exactly 
as  directed. 

Blue  for  Veneers. 

Extract  of  indigo  in  strong  solution  and  the  veneers 
heated  to  boiling  occasionally  and  allowed  to  steep 
until  colored  quite  through.  The  prepared  veneers 
best  be  quite  dry,  or  at  least  two-thirds  dry  when 
put  in  the  bath.    Rinse  well  finally,  or  expose  to 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


189 


ammonia  fumes,  or  carbonization  and  "wooling"  of 
the  surface  of  the  veneers  under  the  tool  may  result. 

Any  cotton  dye  in  alkaline  solution  will  dye  wood. 
Any  of  the  direct  blacks,  10  per  cent  of  the  black, 
2  per  cent  soda  ash  and  20  per  cent  common  salt. 
If  the  wood  is  softened  and  well  prepared,  2  days' 
cooking  and  steeping  will  penetrate  TV  of  an  inch  of 
ash  (in  grain),  or  more  exactly  basket  splints  pounded 
from  an  ash  log.  If  sawn  in  sheets  y1^  inch  they  will 
dye  much  sooner. 

Red. 

Ten  per  cent  benzo-purpurine,  2  per  cent  soda  ash, 
20  per  cent  common  salt. 

Yellow. 

Ten  per  cent  any  bright  cotton  yellow,  as  chinoline 
yellow,  chrysamine  G,  2  per  cent  soda  ash,  20  per  cent 
common  salt. 

Blue. 

Ten  per  cent  benzo-azurine  G,  or  any  cotton  blue  of 
like  character. 

Green. 

Five  per  cent  benzo-azurine  Gand  5  per  cent  chrysa- 
mine G,  2  per  cent  soda  ash,  20  per  cent  common  salt. 

Purple. 

This  is  best  with  logwood,  thus:  Prepare  a  decoc- 
tion of  logwood  as  for  black.  Boil  and  steep  the 
prepared  wood  in  the  decoction  until  well  penetrated. 


190 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Dissolve  2  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  veneers  of 
alum  in  hot  water  and  add  directly  to  the  bath  after 
lifting  the  veneers,  if  the  bath  is  to  be  therein.  Other- 
wise make  a  fresh  alum  bath.  Traces  or  considerable 
quantities  of  indigo  extract  may  be  added  to  the  alum 
bath  to  shade  the  color  if  desired. 

Purple. 

Archil  in  decoction  of  |  to  1  lb.  per  gallon  of  liquor 
dyes  with  good  penetration,  and  is  fairly  fast.  Can 
be  shaded  with  indigo  extract  and  saddened  with 
alum  for  red,  and  copperas  and  blue  vitriol  for  more 
brown  and  sombre  shades.  Simply  soaking  white 
veneer  in  copperas  solution  will  give  a  silver-gray 
color  without  previous  preparation  of  the  wood. 

STAINING  WOOD. 

Staining  wood  is  an  altogether  different  process 
than  dyeing  wood,  and  requires  no  preparation  of 
the  wood  before  the  stain  is  applied.  In  preparing 
the  stain  but  little  trouble  is  required,  and  generally 
speaking  its  application  differs  but  little  from  paint- 
ing. When  carefully  done  and  properly  varnished, 
staining  has  a  very  beautiful  appearance,  and  is 
much  less  likely  to  meet  with  injury  than  japanning. 
For  any  bright  color  the  powder  dyes  upon  the  mar- 
ket, without  exception,  may  be  used  for  this  purpose. 
All  are  not  soluble  in  water,  some  only  in  alcohol. 
Another  class  are  soluble  in  gasoline,  kerosene, 
benzine,  oil,  and  varnish.    The  solution  in  oil  and 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


191 


varnish  is,  however,  very  slow-drying,  and  apt  to 
remain  too  sticky  for  furniture.  The  water  solutions 
are  as  good  as  any,  if  the  raising  of  the  grain  is  no 
objection.  Where  sandpapering  from  raising  of  the 
grain  is  to  be  avoided,  the  oil-soluble  colors  dissolved 
in  gasoline  are  used.  Where  a  full  black  is  desired, 
the  old  logwood  and  copperas  stain  is  as  good  as  any. 
Wash  the  wood  over  with  solution  of  copperas  two 
or  three  times  and  let  it  dry.  Then  apply  two  or 
three  coats  of  a  strong  decoction  of  logwood;  wipe 
the  wood,  when  dry,  with  a  damp  sponge,  and  polish 
with  linseed  oil. 

A  Permanent  Brown-Colored  Stain. 

First  paint  the  wood  with  a  solution  of  cutch 
(catechu  or  gambier)  with  30  parts  of  water.  The 
article  may  be  dipped  in  the  solution  if  small,  and 
slats  for  Venetian  blinds  and  frames  of  window 
screens  are  stained  in  this  way.  A  little  soda  ash  and 
blue  vitriol  may  be  added  to  the  solution,  and  gives 
a  darker  and  more  red  appearance.  This  is  allowed 
to  dry  in  the  air,  and  the  wood  is  then  painted  over, 
or  dipped,  with  solution  of  bichromate  of  potash,  1  part 
bichromate  to  30  parts  of  water.  The  strength  of 
the  solutions  can  be  varied,  and  fustic,  logwood, 
sumac,  archil,  Brazilwood,  etc.,  decoctions  added  to 
suit  the  fancy.  An  extract  from  the  saw  palmetto 
would  answer  the  purpose  admirably  in  place  of 
cutch,  in  sections  where  it  grows.  Neither  cutch  nor 
palmetto  will  fade  from  sunlight,  especially  where 
varnished.    Where  neither  oiled  nor  varnished  it 


192 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


"weathers"  as  fast  as  the  board  and  no  more  so. 
Permanganate-of-potash  solution  in  water  makes  a 
very  permanent  brown  stain  upon  wood,  which  after 
careful  washing,  drying,  and  oiling,  assumes  a  reddish 
tint  upon  polishing. 

Beechwood  Mahogany. 

Dissolve  1  oz.  aloes  and  2  ozs.  dragon's-blood  resin 
in  1  quart  alcohol  and  apply  to  the  wood.  The  wood 
must  have  been  completely  surfaced  previously,  as 
it  will  not  do  to  apply  sandpaper  after  the  stain  is 
applied.  If  wanted  more  yellow,  the  wood  may  be 
gone  over  with  more  or  less  diluted  nitric  acid,  and 
after  smoothing  up,  the  above  stain  be  applied,  or 
boil  1  lb.  logwood  chip,  or  3  ozs.  extract  of  logwood, 
in  2  quarts  of  water  and  add  2  handfuls  of  walnut 
peel;  boil  again  and  strain,  and  add  1  pint  good 
vinegar. 

Imitation  Mahogany. 

Any  species  of  close-grained  wood  may  be  given  the 
appearance  of  mahogany.  The  surface  is  planed 
smooth,  the  wood  is  then  rubbed  with  solution  of 
nitrous  acid.  One  ounce  of  dragon's  blood  is  dissolved 
in  §  pint  of  alcohol.  This  and  J  oz.  of  carbonate  of 
soda  are  to  be  mixed  together  and  the  liquid  filtered, 
and  the  liquid  in  this  state  is  laid  on  with  a  soft  brush. 
This  process  is  to  be  repeated,  and  a  short  time  after 
the  wood  assumes  the  appearance  of  mahogany. 
Polish  and  renew  with  cold-drawn  linseed  oil. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


193 


Imitation  Rosewood. 

Boil  \  lb.  of  logwood  in  3  pints  of  water  until  it 
is  a  very  dark  red,  and  add  \  oz.  of  carbonate  of 
potassa  or  soda.  While  boiling  hot,  stain  the  wood 
with  two  or  three  coats,  taking  care  that  it  is  nearly 
dry  after  each  coat;  then  with  a  stiff  flat  brush 
give  streaks  with  the  black  stain  previously  given, 
which,  if  carefully  executed,  will  be  very  nearly  the 
appearance  of  rosewood.  Or  the  black  streaks  may 
be  put  in  with  a  solution  of  copperas  and  verdigris 
in  a  decoction  of  logwood.  A  handy  brush  for  the 
purpose  may  be  made  out  of  a  flat  varnish  brush; 
cut  the  sharp  points  off  and  make  the  edge  irregular 
by  cutting  out  a  few  hairs,  and  you  will  have  a  tool 
that  will  very  closely  imitate  the  grain.  Or  stain 
with  the  black  stain,  and  when  dry  go  over  it  with 
a  brush  made  as  above  dipped  in  the  following  liquor: 
Strong  nitric  acid  1  pint,  1  oz.  grain  tin,  and  sal- 
ammoniac  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Set  it  aside  for  a 
day  or  two  with  the  cork  out  and  shake  it  from  time 
to  time.  In  the  course  of  two  or  three  days  it  will 
be  fit  for  use.  Don't  get  this  liquid  on  hands  or 
clothing.  It  stains  the  hands  a  yellow  that  must  wear 
off  and  stains  the  clothes  in  such  manner  it  cannot 
be  removed. 

To  Imitate  Old  Mahogany. 

It  frequently  happens  that  mahogany  darkens  by 
age.    Therefore  in  adding  a  patch  of  new  wood,  it 
shows  up  much  too  light-colored.    To  obviate  this 
13 


194 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


difficulty  apply  any  alkaline  liquid,  soap  lye,  lime- 
water,  or  milk  of  lime,  soda  carbonate,  ammonia. 
Have  a  care  that  you  do  not  get  the  patch  too  dark; 
therefore  use  weak  alkali  and  work  up  to  it  by  re- 
peating the  process  with  gradually  stronger  solutions. 

Cane-Staining. 

Dissolve  a  few  grains  of  sulphate  of  manganese  in 
sufficient  water  to  take  it  up.  Moisten  the  surface 
of  the  cane  with  it,  and  hold  it  over  the  flame  of  a 
spirit-lamp  close  enough  to  scorch  it.  By  care  the 
whole  surface  may  be  brought  to  a  uniform  dark, 
rich  brown,  or  beautifully  variegated  by  heating  some 
parts  more  than  others,  thus  varying  from  near  white 
to  almost  black.  The  color  appears  dull  at  first,  but 
on  oiling  with  linseed  oil  (raw)  and  rubbing  with  a 
smooth  piece  of  hard  wood  it  will  be  beautifully 
developed.  Give  the  cane  no  other  finish,  unless  it 
be  to  give  it  another  oiling  some  days  after  the  first. 

Dark  Mahogany  Color. 

Boil  |  lb.  madder  and  2  ozs.  of  logwood  in  1  gallon 
of  water;  then  brush  the  wood  well  over  with  the 
hot  liquid.  When  dry,  go  over  the  whole  with  a  solu- 
tion of  2  drachms  pearlash  in  1  quart  of  water. 

Light  Mahogany. 

Brush  over  the  surface  of  the  wood  with  diluted 
nitrous  acid,  and  when  dry  apply  the  following  with 
a  soft  brush:  Dragon's  blood  4  ozs.,  common  soda 
1  oz.,  alcohol  3  pints.   Let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


195 


Shake  it  frequently,  and  then  strain.  Repeat  until 
dark  enough  to  suit. 

Mahogany  Color. 

Pure  Socotrine  aloes  1  oz.,  dragon's  blood  J  oz.,  al- 
cohol 1  pint;  dissolve  and  apply  two  or  three  coats 
to  the  surface  of  the  wood,  and  finish  off  with  wax 
and  oil  tinged  with  alkanet.  Or,  wash  over  the  wood 
with  strong  nitric  acid,  and  when  dry  apply  a  coat  of 
the  above  and  polish  with  the  wax  and  oil,  or  log- 
wood 2  ozs.,  madder  8  ozs.,  fustic  1  oz.,  water  1  gallon. 
Boil  2  hours,  and  apply  it  several  times  to  the  wood 
boiling  hot.  When  dry  slightly  brush  it  over  with 
solution  of  pearlash  1  oz.,  water  1  qt.  Dry  and  polish 
as  before.  Or,  logwood  1  part,  water  8  parts;  make 
a  decoction  and  apply  it  to  the  wood;  when  dry, 
give  two  or  three  coats  of  the  following  varnish: 
dragon's  blood  1  part,  alcohol  20  parts;  mix. 

Black  Walnut. 

Besides  the  cutch  brown  given  before,  you  may  use 
the  following:  1  quart  of  water,  1§  ozs.  washing-soda, 
2\  ozs.  vandyke  brown,  J  oz.  bichromate  of  potash. 
Boil  10  minutes  and  apply  either  hot  or  cold.  An 
excellent  stain. 

To  Stain  Brown  Beech,  Boxwood,  Shad,  Orange- 
wood  or  Holly. 

Hold  the  wood  to  the  fire  until  it  feels  warm  to  the 
hand;  then  take  nitric  acid  and  with  a  feather  pass 
over  the  work  until  it  changes  to  brown,  keeping  it 


196 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


continuously  before  the  fire  and  warm.  After  thor- 
oughly dry,  it  may  be  shaded  by  a  brush,  or  the 
feather  dipped  in  solution  of  potash  or  soda. 

Green. 

Green  is  not  a  natural  or  pleasing  stain  for  wood 
except  in  special  cases.  If  wanted,  besides  the  very 
numerous  green  powder  dyes  on  the  market,  you  may 
use  3  pints  strongest  vinegar  (or  some  acetic  acid), 
4  ozs.  best  verdigris,  pounded  fine,  \  oz.  sap  green, 
and  \  oz.  indigo  carmine. 

IVORY. 

To  Color  or  Dye  Ivory  or  Bone. 

With  regard  to  the  coloring  of  ivory,  it  may  be  said 
that  in  general  the  colors  penetrate  better  before  the 
surface  is  polished  than  afterward.  Should  any  spots 
appear,  they  may  be  cleaned  up  by  rubbing  them 
with  chalk,  after  which  the  ivory  should  be  dyed 
once  more,  to  produce  uniformity  of  shade.  On 
taking  it  out  of  the  boiling-hot  dye,  it  should  be 
plunged  at  once  into  cold  water  to  prevent  the  chance 
of  fissures  being  caused  by  the  heat.  Ivory  may  be 
dyed  by  any  of  the  methods  employed  for  woollens, 
after  being  freed  from  dirt  and  grease,  but  more 
quickly  as  follows: 

To  Dye  Ivory  Black. 

After  being  well  washed  in  an  alkaline  lye,  the  ivory 
is  steeped  in  a  weak  neutral  solution  of  nitrate  of 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


197 


silver  and  then  exposed  to  the  light,  or  dried  and 
dipped  into  a  weak  solution  of  ammonium  sulphide. 

To  Dye  Ivory  a  Deep  Black. 

Boil  the  cleaned  ivory  in  a  strained  decoction  of 
logwood  for  some  time  and  then  steep  it  in  a  solu- 
tion of  acetate  or  sulphate  of  iron. 

To  Dye  Ivory  Red. 

Make  an  infusion  of  cochineal  in  dilute  ammonia 
and  immerse  the  clean  pieces  therein,  having  pre- 
viously steeped  them  in  water  just  sour  to  the  taste 
with  nitric  acid. 

To  Dye  Ivory  Red. 

Four  parts  of  picric  acid,  by  weight,  dissolved  in 
250  parts  of  water  boiling  hot;  add  after  cooling  8 
parts  ammonia.  Dissolve  2  parts  magenta  in  45  parts 
alcohol,  dilute  with  375  parts  of  water  (hot),  and  add 
50  parts  of  ammonia.  As  soon  as  the  red  color  of 
the  solution  has  disappeared  mix  the  twro  solutions. 
Ivory  and  bone  should  be  first  steeped  in  very  weak 
nitric  or  muriatic  acid  before  being  immersed  in  the 
ammoniacal  solution  of  picric  acid  and  magenta. 
By  varying  the  proportions  of  picric  acid  and  magenta 
any  shade  from  bluish-red  to  bright  orange  may  be 
obtained;  the  colors  do  not  appear  until  the  ammonia 
has  evaporated.  When  to  the  ammoniacal  solution 
some  gelatine  solution  is  added,  it  may  be  used  as  a 
red  ink  that  will  not  corrode  steel  pens. 


198 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Dye  Ivory  Blue. 

Steep  the  cleaned  ivory  in  the  dyer's  green  indigo 
vat,  or  first  steep  in  very  weak  muriatic  acid  for  15 
or  20  minutes,  and  from  this  to  a  bath  of  indigo 
carmine,  and  keep  it  there  until  it  assumes  a  uniform 
blue  tint.  Then  dry  and  polish.  Any  acid  blue,  sul- 
phate of  indigo,  or  weak  decoction  of  logwood  will 
color  ivory  blue.  For  logwood  the  acid  bath  is  not 
necessary  nor  admissible.  For  violet  steep  the  clean 
ivory  in  a  very  dilute  solution  of  tin  crystals  and  boil 
in  the  logwood  bath. 

Aniline  Dyes  for  Ivory. 

Any  of  these  colors  give  a  fine  and  permanent  color 
to  ivory  by  immersion  in  their  more  or  less  strong 
solutions,  according  to  the  depth  of  color  wanted. 
Make  a  very  strong  solution  in  a  small  vessel  and  add 
from  it  to  the  dye  vessel  until  dark  enough.  The 
ivory  may  be  shaded  with  red,  yellow,  or  blue  to  meet 
all  requirements. 

To  Render  Ivory  Flexible, 

Ivory  is  rendered  flexible  if  immersed  in  a  solution 
of  phosphoric  acid,  specific  gravity  1.13,  until  it 
loses,  or  partially  loses,  its  opacity,  when  it  is  washed 
in  clean  cold  water  and  dried.  In  this  state  it  is  as 
flexible  as  leather,  but  gradually  hardens  by  exposure 
to  the  air.  Immersion  in  hot  water  restores  its  elas- 
ticity and  softness  and  pliancy.    Or  put  the  ivory 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


199 


to  soak  in  3  ozs.  nitric  acid  diluted  with  15  ozs.  water. 
In  three  or  four  days  the  ivory  will  be  soft. 

To  Harden  Ivory. 

If,  after  ivory  has  been  softened,  it  is  desired  to 
harden  it  again,  wrap  it  in  a  sheet  of  white  paper 
and  cover  with  dry  decrepitated  salt  and  lay  it  by 
for  24  hours,  when  it  will  resume  its  original  hardness. 

To  Dye  Ivory  when  Softened. 

Dissolve  in  alcohol  such  color  as  is  desired  to  use. 
When  the  alcohol  is  sufficiently  impregnated  with  the 
color,  plunge  in  the  ivory  and  let  it  remain  until  dyed 
to  suit. 

To  Bleach  Ivory. 

Twenty-two  and  a  half  ozs.  of  ivory.  Place  them 
in  a  solution  of  11J  ozs.  carbonate  of  soda  crystals, 
45f  ozs.  water.  Leave  in  this  bath  two  days  and  wash 
well  in  pure  water.  Next  immerse  in  a  solution  of 
17  ozs.  sulphate  of  soda  in  45J  ozs.  of  water  for  five 
or  six  days,  and  add  to  the  liquid,  yet  containing  the 
ivory,  1  oz.  muriatic  acid  and  5J  ozs.  water.  Cover 
and  allow  to  remain  24  to  36  hours,  and  wash  well  in 
cold  water  and  dry. 

To  Restore  Yellowed  Ivory  to  its  Original 
Whiteness. 

A  thin  lime  paste  is  prepared  in  a  pot  and  heated 
over  a  stove.  The  ivory  is  placed  in  this  and  left 
until  white,  when  it  is  taken  out,  dried,  and  polished. 


200 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Bleach  Ivory. 

Rub  it  with  finely  powdered  pumice  stone  and  water 
and  expose  to  the  sun  while  still  moist,  under  a  bell 
glass,  or  some  glass  covering,  to  prevent  too  rapid 
desiccation  and  cracking.  Observe  to  repeat  the 
process  until  a  proper  effect  is  produced.  Ivory 
may  also  be  bleached  by  immersion  for  a  short  time 
in  water  containing  sulphurous  acid,  chloride  of  lime, 
or  chlorine  in  solution,  or  by  exposing  to  the  fumes 
of  burning  sulphur,  largely  diluted  with  air.  In  many 
cases,  as  with  piano  keys,  that  can't  be  removed, 
the  rubbing  with  pumice  stone  and  water,  and  the 
polishing  process  will  be  found  at  least  partly  suc- 
cessful. 

To  Polish  Ivory. 

Putty  powder  and  water  and  a  piece  of  old  felt  hat 
will  in  a  short  time  produce  a  fine  gloss  on  ivory  if 
rubbed  vigorously  upon  it;  or  set  the  ivory  in  a  turn- 
er's wheel  and  after  having  worked  it  to  shape,  rub 
with  a  paste  of  pumice  stone  and  water  until  perfectly 
smooth;  then  heat  it  by  holding  a  piece  of  linen 
against  it,  or  a  sheepskin,  by  friction,  and  rub  it  with 
whiting  and  olive  oil.  Next  with  dry  whiting  alone, 
and  finally  with  a  clean  soft  rag,  and  the  ivory  will 
appear  remarkably  white  and  glossy. 

Fluid  for  Marking  Ivory. 

Take  nitrate  of  silver,  2  parts;  nitric  acid,  1  part; 
water,  7  parts;  mix. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


201 


Etching- Varnish  for  Ivory. 

White  wax,  2  parts;  tears  of  mastic,  2  parts;  mix 
by  heat. 

To  Etch  Ivory. 

Cover  the  ivory  to  be  etched  with  a  clean  coating 
of  etching- varnish  or  beeswax,  then  trace  the  figures 
upon  it  through  the  wax.  Pour  over  it  a  strong  solu- 
tion of  nitrate  of  silver.  Let  it  remain  a  short  time, 
then  remove  it  and  the  wax  by  hot  water.  The 
design  will  be  left  in  black  lines  upon  the  ivory  or 
appear  on  exposure  to  the  sun. 

To  Gild  Ivory. 

Immerse  it  in  a  solution  of  gold  in  nitro-muriatic 
acid,  and  while  yet  damp  expose  to  hydrogen  gas. 
Or  immerse  in  a  solution  of  ferrous  sulphate  and  after- 
ward in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  gold. 

To  Silver  Ivory. 

Immerse  the  ivory  in  a  strong  solution  of  nitrate 
of  silver  and  let  it  remain  in  the  dark  until  the  nitrate 
of  silver  has  given  it  a  deep  yellow  color.  Remove 
to  a  fresh  bath  of  clear  water  and  expose  under 
water  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun.  In  about  3  hours 
the  ivory  becomes  a  deep  black,  but  on  being  rubbed 
soon  becomes  a  brilliant  silver. 


202 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


To  Clean  Ivory  Ornaments. 

When  ivory  ornaments  get  yellow  or  dingy-looking, 
wash  them  well  in  soap  and  water  and  a  brush  to 
clean  out  the  carvings,  and  place  them  while  wet 
in  clear  sunshine;  wet  them  several  times  a  day  for 
two  or  three  days  with  soapy  water,  still  keeping  them 
in  the  sun.  Then  wash  them  again  and  they  will  be 
beautifully  white. 

Artificial  Ivory. 

Tablets  for  photographers'  use  are  made  of  gelatine 
or  albumen  mixed  with  finely-powdered  sulphate  of 
baryta,  or  heavy  spar,  compressed  into  sheets  and 
dried.  The  most  successful  imitation  of  ivory  seems 
to  be  made  by  dissolving  India  rubber  (caoutchouc) 
in  chloroform,  passing  chlorine  through  the  solution 
until  it  is  of  a  pale  yellow  tint,  next  washing  well 
with  alcohol  and  adding,  in  fine  powder,  either 
sulphate  of  baryta,  sulphate  of  lead,  alumina,  or  chalk, 
in  quantity  proportioned  to  the  desired  density  or 
tint,  kneading  well,  and  finally  subjecting  to  heavy 
pressure.  A  very  tough  product  is  obtained,  capable 
of  receiving  a  high  polish. 


APPENDIX 


LIST  OF  DYESTUFFS,  MAKERS,  AND 
METHODS 

From  Metz  &  Co.'s  Yearbook,  1907,  by  permission. 

Abbreviations  Used  to  Indicate  Dyestuff  Manufac- 
turers and  Their  Agents. 

A .  Berlin  Anilin  Works,  213-215  Water  St.,  New  York, 
N.  Y.;  122  Walnut  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  124  Pearl  St., 
Boston,  Mass.;  220  E.  Kinzie  St.,  Chicago,  111.;  9  E. 
Pearl  St.,  Cincinnati,  O.;  23  S.  Tyron  St.,  Charlotte, 
N.  C.  American  agents  for  the  Actiengesellschaft  fur 
Anilinfabrikation  in  Berlin. 

At.  F.  E.  Atteaux  &  Co.,  176  Purchase  St.,  Boston. 
Mass.;  176  Fulton  St.,  New  York,  N.  Y.;  17  E.  Kinzie 
St.,  Chicago,  111.;  West  Fulton  St.,  Gloversville,  N.  Y.; 
53  E.  Colbourn  St.,  Toronto,  Ontario;  15  Lamoine  St., 
Montreal,  Canada. 

B.  Badische  Co.,  128  Duane  St.,  New  York,  N.  Y.; 
86  Federal  St.,  Boston,  Mass.;  80  South  Water  St., 
Providence,  R.  I.;  238  Arch  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  228 
Randolph  St.,  Chicago,  111.;  6  Lamoine  St.,  Montreal, 
Canada.  Former  designations  K.P.,  P.K.,  Con.  Agents 
for  B. 

Bs.  C.  Bischoff  &  Co.,  451-453  Washington  St.,  New 
York,  N.  Y.;  229  N.  Front  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  124- 

203 


204 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


126  Purchase  St.,  Boston,  Mass.;  10  Weybosset  St., 
Providence,  R.  I.;  196  Michigan  St.,  Chicago,  111.;  416 
St.  Paul  St.,  Montreal,  Canada. 

By.  Farbenfabriken,  vormals  Fried.  Bayer  und.  Co., 
Elberfeld,  Barmen,  Scheploh,  Leverkusen,  Germany; 
Flers,  France;  Moscow,  Russia.  American  agents, 
Farbenfabriken  of  Elberfeld  Co.,  117  Hudson  St.,  New 
York,  N.  Y.;  32  India  St.,  Boston,  Mass.;  27  Pine  St., 
Providence,  R.  I.;  9-11  N.  Water  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.; 
133  E.  Kinzie  St.,  Chicago,  111.;  509-513  Trust  Building, 
Charlotte,  N.  C;  14  Front  St.,  East,  Toronto,  Canada. 

K.  Kalle  &  Co.,  Inc.,  Biebrich-am-Rhein,  Germany; 
530  Canal  St.,  New  York,  N.  Y.;  145  Pearl  St.,  Boston, 
Mass.;  37  Letitia  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Kip.  A.  Klipstein  &  Co.,  122  Pearl  St.,  New  York, 
N.  Y.;  50-52  N.  Front  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  283-285 
Congress  St.,  Boston,  Mass. ;  136  Kinzie  St.,  Chicago,  111. ; 
13  Mathewson  St.,  Providence,  R.  I.;  24  Catherine  St., 
North,  Hamilton,  Canada;  17  Lamoine  St.,  Montreal, 
Canada. 

Math.  Cassella  Color  Co.,  182-184  Front  St.,  New 
York,  N.  Y.;  126-128  Front  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.; 
68  Essex  St.,  Boston,  Mass.;  64  Exchange  Place,  Provi- 
dence, R.  I.;  47  N.  Pryor  St.,  Atlanta,  Ga.;  86-88 
Youville  Square,  Montreal,  Canada. 

Mz.  H.  A.  Metz  &  Co.,  122  Hudson  St.,  New  York, 
N.  Y.;  140-142  Oliver  St.,  Boston,  Mass.;  104  Chestnut 
St.,  Philadeluhia,  Pa.;  23  South  Main  St.,  Providence, 
R.  I.;  4  N.  Clark  St.,  Chicago  111.;  210  Tyron  St.,  Char- 
lotte, N.  C;  Empire  Building,  Atlanta,  Ga.;  Dock  & 
Brown  Sts.,  Newark,  N.  J.;  1025  Bryant  St.,  San 
Francisco,  Cal.;  55  St.  Francois  Xavier  St.,  Montreal, 
Canada;  28-30  Wellington  St.,  West,  Toronto,  Canada. 
Hamburg,  Germany. 

This  list  of  dyeware-makers  and  their  agents  is  far 
from  a  complete  one,  but  is  deemed  quite  sufficient  for 
the  requirements  of  the  users  of  this  book. 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


205 


Dyeing  Methods. 

For  economy  of  space,  in  order  that  the  information 
may  be  more  readily  found,  the  dyeing  methods  are  given 
by  certain  suggestive  letters,  in  accordance  with  the 
following: 

W  A  indicates  wool  is  dyed  in  acetic-acid  bath. 
W  N  means  that  wool  is  dyed  in  a  neutral  bath. 
W  G  indicates  that  wool  is  dyed  in  a  bath  containing 
Glauber  salt. 

W  G  S  means  that  wool  is  dyed  with  Glauber  salt  and 

sulphuric  acid  in  the  bath. 
W  G  S  Ch  indicates  that  wool  is  first  dyed  with  Glauber 

salt  and  sulphuric  acid  in  the  bath,  and  the  color  then 

developed  with  chrome  (bichromate  of  potash  or  soda) . 
W  A  Ch  means  that  wool  is  first  dyed  with  acetic  acid 

in  the  bath  and  chrome  added  to  develop  the  color. 
W  Ch  indicates  that  chromed  (mordanted)  wool  is  dyed 

in  the  bath. 

S  A  means  that  silk  is  dyed  in  the  bath  acidified  with 
acetic  acid. 

S  S  means  that  silk  is  dyed  in  a  bath  acidified  with  sul- 
phuric acid  (oil  of  vitriol). 

C  T  indicates  that  the  dyestuff  is  used  on  cotton  mor- 
danted with  tannin. 

C  D  means  that  cotton  is  dyed  direct  in  the  bath. 

C  Dv  indicates  that  the  color  is  developed  on  cotton  by 
subsequent  treatment  after  direct  dyeing. 

C  A  L  indicates  that  cotton  is  dyed  with  alum  and 
Glauber  salt. 

C  W  D  indicates  cotton  and  wool  mixed  goods  (unions) 

dyed  in  one  bath. 
SULPHUR  denotes  one  of  the  class  of  sulphur  dyes 

requiring  special  treatment. 

These  extremely  brief  directions  are  used  for  the 
further  reason  that  the  dye-manufacturers  themselves 
prefer  that  specific  directions  be  obtained  from  their 
offices.  Paste  dyes  are  entirely  omitted  from  the  follow- 
ing list. 


206 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Dyestuffs,  Makers,  and  Methods. 


Acetopurpurine,  8  B  

.A  

CD 

Acetylene  Blue,  6  B,  3  B,  Bx,  3  R  Kip 

C  D 

Acetylene  Pure  Blue  

.Kip... 

C  D 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  3  B,  3  Bex. 

.Mz 

W  G  S  Ch 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  R,  A  C,  R  H.  Mz 

WG  S  Ch 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  S  N,  S  E  T 

(powder)  

.Mz.... 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Black  T  

.Mz.... 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  B  B  

.Mz.... 

WGSCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  GR.SV  

.Mz.... 

WGSCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Blue  Black  B,  3  B .  Mz 

W  G  S  Ch 

Acid  Alizarine  Brown  B.BB.R  H, 

RP  

.Mz.... 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Dark  Blue  S  N .  . . 

.Mz 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Garnet  R  

.Mz.... 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Gray  G  

.Mz.... 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Green  B  

.Mz.... 

w  n  s  rh 

Acid  Alizarine  Green  G  

.Mz.... 

WG  SCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Grenade  R  

Mz.... 

W  O  S  Ch 

Acid  Alizarine  Red  B,  G  

Mz.... 

w  n  s  ch 

Acid  Alizarine  Violet  N  

Mz.... 

WGSCh 

Acid  Alizarine  Yellow  O.RC,  . 

Mz.... 

WGSCh 

Acid  Anthracine  Brown  T,  G,  R  H 

Extra  

By.... 

WGSCh 

Acid  Anthracine  Red  G,  B  B .  .  .  . 

By.... 

W  O  S  Ch 

Acid  Black  

.Mz.... 

Acid  Black  BE  

.Kip... 

Acid  Black  5  B,  8  B,  F  L  

.By.... 

wn  q 

Acid  Black  C,  3  BLJ  

.Kip... 

WGS 

Acid  Blue  FS,  466,  GS  

.Mz.... 

WGS 

Acid  Blue  Black  3  B  

By.... 

WGS 

Acid  Brown  D  

.Math.. 

WGS 

.A  

WGS 

.A  

WGS 

Acid  Cerise  

.Mz.... 

WGSandSS 

Acid  Cerise  0,  ii  

Mz... 

WGSandSS 

Acid  Chrome  Black  B  G,  W  S,  T  C  By 

....  WGSCh 

OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


207 


Acid  Chrome  Brown  T  By   WG  SCh 

Acid  Crimson  Bs   WGS 

Acid  Cyanine  B,  B  D,  B  F,  G,  C  D, 

GF  A   WGS 

Acid  Cyanine  BR  By   WGS 

AcidEosineG  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Fuchsine  Mz,  Bs,  Kip  WGS 

Acid  Fuchsine  SB  B   WGS 

Acid  Green  By,  Kip.  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Green  3  B,  6  B  By   WGS 

Acid  Green  Cone  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Green  Cone.  D  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Green  Cone.  G,  M,  ii  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Green  EC  Mz  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Green  5  G  Math   WGS 

Acid  Green  M  Mz  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Green  M,  5-fold  cone  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Green  O  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Green  780  Math   WGS 

Acid  Indigo  Blue  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Magenta  Mz,  B,  SS. . 

WGSandSS 

Acid  Magenta  B  Mz  WGS  and  SS 

Acid  Magenta  Crystals  Mz  WGS  and  S  S 

Acid  Magenta  O  Mz  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Marine  Blue  A  Math   WGS 

Acid  Maroon  O  Mz  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Methyl  Violet  S7B  B   WGS 

Acid  Phosphine  GO,BRO  Mz   Leather 

Acid  Ponceau  Kip   WGS 

Acid  Rhodamine  R,  3  R  Kip   WGS 

Acid  Rosamine  A  pat  Mz  WGS  and  S  S 

AcidRubineSB  B   WGS 

Acid  Rubine  BBR  Kip   WGS 

Acid  Ruby  Kip   WGS 

Acid  Sky  Blue  At   WGS 

Acid  Violet  3  B  extr a  B  W  By   WGS 

Acid  Violet  B  N,  2  B  N  B   WGS 

Acid  Violet  4  B  extra  By,  A   WGS 

AcidViolet4BN  B,  Kip  . . . .  WGS 


208 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Acid  Violet  4BS  Math  . . .  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Violet  4  B  X  By   WGS 

Acid  Violet  5  BF,5BFI  Mz   WGS 

AcidViolet5BS  At   WGS 

AcidViolet5BX  Math   WGS 

Acid  Violet  6B  A,  By   WGS 

Acid  Violet  6  B  F  Mz   WGS 

AcidVioletOBIN  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  6  B  N  Kip,  B .  .  W  G  S  and  S  S 

Acid  Violet  6  B  S  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  7  B  Mz,  Kip,  B 

W  G  S  and  S  S 

AcidViolet7BN  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  N  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  R  cone  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  R  extra  By   WGS 

Acid  Violet  2  R  extra,  3  R  extra .  .  By   WGS 

AcidViolet3RA,3RS  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  4  R  Kip.  15. .  .  WGS 

AcidViolet4RN  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Violet  4R  S  Mz   WGS 

AcidVioletS7B,S4R  B   WGS 

Acid  Violet  ii  Mz   WGS 

Acid  Yellow  Mz,  A,  Kip, 

Math. ...  WGS 

Acid  Yellow  Crystals  Mz,  Math .  .  WGS 

Acid  Yellow  AT  Math......  WGS 

Acid  Yellow  D  A   WGS 

Acme  Brown  Math   CT 

Acme  Yellow  Mz  WGS  and  SS 

Acridine  Orange  Mz  S  A  and  C  T 

Acridine  Orange  N  O,  R  extra.  .  .  .  Mz   C  T 

Acridine  Red  B,  2  B,  3  B  Mz   CT 

Acridine  Scarlet  R,  2  R,  3  R  Mz   CT 

Acridine  Yellow  Mz  S  A  and  C  T 

Argol  Blue  C  F,  3  G  By   Vat 

Argol  Green  B  By   Vat 

Argol  Red  B  By   Vat 

Alizarine  Anthrol  Blue  N  R  Mz   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Astrol  B  By  W  G  S,  W  Ch 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


209 


Alizarine  Black  Bayer  FB,  NG, 


G  A.  ... 

.By.. 

WG  S  Ch 

Alizarine  Black  4  B  4  B  N 

Math 

W  A 

Alizarine  Black  4BR 

.Math  

W  A 

Alizarine  Black  6  B 

.Math  . 

W  A 

Alizarine  Black  6  B,  C  T. . 

.Mz  

W  G  S  Ch 

Alizarine  Black  D  . 

Math 

W  A 

Alizarine  Black  P  

.Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Black  R  

Bs,  Math  . . 

WCh 

Alizarine  Black  S  . 

Mz,Math7B, 

WCh 

Alizarine  Black  SR  A. 

.B  

WCh 

Alizarine  Black  T  

.Math  

WCh 

Alizarine  Black TBR  

.A  

WG  SCh 

Alizarine  Black  W  B  extra,  S  W  . 

.B  

WCh 

Alizarine  Black  W  X  extra  

.B  

W  ACh 

Alizarine  Blue  A  

.Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  Black,  3  B,  B  

By  

WCh 

riiizaiiiie  J3iue  JDiacK  vv  d  exiia  . 

.  13  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  A  S  R  

.B  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  B  R  3  G  

•By  

VV  vvll 

Alizarine  Blue  C  S  

.Math  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  DB,DBX,DE 

DRT.nfi  

Mz  

CD 

Alizarine  Blue  D  N,  D  N  W, 

DNX   

Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  DR,D2R,D4R.Mz  

CD 

Alizarine  Blue  E,  A,  G  

Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  G  S  

.At  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  G  W,  JR  

By  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  N  G  G  (powder) .  . 

.B  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  N  S  (powder) .... 

•By  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  ODR  

.At  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  R.  R  R  

.Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  S  A  P,  S  K  Y,  S  A  E  By  

WGS,WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  S  (powder)  

B  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  SBW  (powder) .  . 

Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Blue  Black  B,  3  B  

By  

WCh 

Alizarine  Bordeaux  P  

Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Bordeaux  G,GG  

By  

WCh 

14 


210 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Alizarine  Brown  

•Mz,  By, 

B  .         W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown  AS  

.Kip.... 

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown  D  B,  D  B  D,  D  D  Mz 

c  d 

Alizarine  Brown  D  G  D  2  G  D 

3 

GO  D3GI 

Mz 

f!  D 

Alizarine  Brown  DM  DI 

Jill/Jill               i  VI  \J  V  V  XX  XV  XTi  ,  J — r   XI  ,                 V  . 

Mz 

C  D 

Alizarine  Brown  G 

Mz 

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown  G  N  AW  AT 

Bv 

W  Ch 

Alizarinp  Brown  O  D  R 

At 

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown  (nowder^ 

Mz  Bv 

W  Ch 

•   .   .                      TV    Vy  11 

Alizarine  Brown  0  F  N  E 

Mz 

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown RB  

•By  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown  SO  

.B  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Brown  Y  

By  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Carmine  Blue  B,  G  . . .  . 

By  

WCh 

Alizarine  Claret  BD,DG  

.Mz  

CD 

Alizarine  Coelestol  R  

By  

W  G  ft  W  Ch 

Alizarine  Cyanine  Green  3  G 

By  

W  G  S  Ch 

Alizarine  Cyanine  R,  2  R,  3  R, 

R  A  extra  

•By  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  

.B  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  D,  D  R, 

D  3R  

.Mz  

C  D 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  S  

.Mz  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  D  G,  G  I  

.B  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Emeraldole  G  

•  By  

W  G  S 

Alizarine  Fast  Black  S  P  (powder)  By  

WCh 

Alizarine  Fuchsine  B  D  

By...W 

On  ana  W  u  b 

Alizarine  Green  B  

A  

W  A 

Alizarine  Green  C,  S  S  

By  

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Green  C  E  (powder),  C 

G, 

CK  

By  

W  G  S  W  Ch 

Alizarine  Green  D  W  

B  

•     TT      WJ    KJ ,      17  Vll 

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Green  F  

.A  

W  A  Ch 

Alizarine  Green  S  E  

.Mz,B.  . 

W  Ch 

Alizarine  Green  S  Pat  

.Math. . . 

WCh 

Alizarine  Grenat  R  

..Mz  

WCh 

Alizarine  Indigo  DO  

.Mz  

CD 

Alizarine  Irisol  R  

By  

W  G  S,  W  Ch 

Alizarine  Lanacyl  Blue  B  B,  3  B . 

.Math 

W  Ch 

OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


211 


Alizarine  Lanacyl  Navy  Blue  B 

Pat  Math   WA 

Alizarine  Lanacyl  Blue  R  Math   W  A 

Alizarine  Lanacyl  Violet  B  Pat .  .  .  Math   W  A 

Alizarine  Olive  O  D  At   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Orange  DF,  DG,DR..Mz   CD 

Alizarine  Orange  G  Mz,  By .  .  .  .  W  Ch 

Alizarine  Orange  NO  Mz   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Orange  (powder)  and 

Orange  P  Mz   WCh 

Alizarine  Red  D4B  Mz   CD 

Alizarine  Red  GG  B   WCh 

Alizarine  Red  PS  By   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Red  RG,RX  Mz   WCh 

Alizarine  Red  S  Mz,  B   WCh 

Alizarine  Red  S  D  G  Mz   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Red  W  B  By,  B   WCh 

Alizarine  Red  W  S,  X  Mz   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Red  No.  1  Powder,  2  A, 

2  A  B  L,  2  B  W,  1  W,  1  W  S,  2 

A  W,  2  W,  2  W  S,  3  G  W,  3  W, 

3WS,4FW,4WS,5WS....Mz   WCh 

Alizarine  Rubinol  R  Mz   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Saphirol  S  E  and  B  By   W  G  S 

Alizarine  Scarlet  D  G,  D  2  R  Mz   CD 

Alizarine  Sky  Blue  B  By   W  G  S 

Alizarine  Violet  extra  At   WCh 

Alizarine  Yellow  D  G,  D  R,  D  3  G, 

DOO  Mz   CD 

Alizarine  Yellow  D  R  Bs   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Yellow  F  S  Kip   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Yellow  G  G,  G  G  W,  N .  .  Mz   W  Ch 

Alizarine  Yellow  G  G  A   W  A  Ch 

Alizarine  YellowLW  B   WCh 

Alizarine  Yellow  R,  R  W  (pow- 
ders) Mz   WCh 

"I  Dyed  with 

Alkali  Blue  A,  B,  Bs,  )  saJ-Jod.f 


Kip,  Math 


and  devel- 
oped by 
acid. 


212 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


and  devel- 
oped with 
an  acid. 

CD 
WGS 
WGS 

Dye  with 
sal-soda  in 


bath 
devel- 
wi  th 


Alkali  Blue  B,  2  B,  3  B,  4  B,  5  B,  ^  r 

6B,7B,BBR,R  cone,  extra. .  Mz  j  sai-soda  in 

Alkali  Blue  B,  2  B,  3  B,  4  B,  5  B,  [the  bath 

6  B,  6  B  90  per  cent,  6  B  100  per 
cent,  R,2R,3R  Math  

Alkali  BlueD  A  

Alkali  Brown  Bs  

Alkali  Green  B,  G,  3  B  By  

Alkali  Fast  Red  B,  G  Mz  

Alkali  Red  Bs  

Alkali  Red  BR  Mz  

Alkali  Violet  C  A  B  

Alkali  Violet  R..:  By  

Alkali  Yellow  R  Bs  

Alsace  Brown  B,BB,MR,L  L, 

R  At  

Amaranth  Mz,  Math. 

Amaranth  B  Math.  

Amaranth  E,  O  Mz  

Amine  Black  4  B,  S  4  B,  6  B,  10  B  A  

Amido  Acid  Black  B,  4  B,  6  B, 

B  L;  B  L  G  A  

Amido  Black  10  B  Mz  

Amido  Naphthol  Black  4  Bex, 

6B,S,R  Mz  

Amido  Naphthol  Red  2  B,  6  B,  G .  Mz  

Aniline  Green  Math  


the 
^and 
op 
acid. 


CD 

ss 

W  G  S,  S  S 
WGS,SS 
WGS 

WGS 

ws 


Aniline  Orange  Math  

Aniline  Yellow  NT  Math  

Anthra  Alizarine  Bordeaux  At  

Anthra  Alizarine  Carmoisine  At  

Anthra  Alizarine  Green  C  G  At  

Anthra  Alizarine  Red  B  At  

Anthra  Alizarine  Yellow  G  At  

Anthracine  Acid  Black  C  Kip  

Anthracine  Acid  Black  L  W,  S  F, 

ST,SW  Math   W  G  S  Ch 

Anthracine  Acid  Brown  B,  G,  N, 

R,  S  W  pat.  V  Math .  WG  S,  W Ch,  SA 

Anthracine  Blue  C  Math   W  Ch 


WGS 
WGS 
WGS,  CT 
CT 
CD 
W  ACh 
W  ACh 
W  ACh 
W  ACh 
W  ACh 
WCh 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS.  213 

I 

Anthracine  Blue  S,  S  W  X,  W  B, 

WG,WR,SWGG  extra  B   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Blue  Black  C  Math   W  G  S  Ch 

Anthracine  Chrome  Black  F,  5  B, 

FE,PFB extra  Math   W  G  S  Ch 

Anthracine  Chrome  Blue  B  B,  F, 

G(FR,)  Math   WGSCh 

Anthracine  Chrome  Blue  D,S  WN  Math   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Chrome  Green  Math   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Chrome  Red  A  Math   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Chrome  Violet  BR,..  Math   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Dark  Blue  B .   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Green  or  Cormaline  B .  B   W  Ch 

Anthracine  Red  By,  Kip  . . .  W  G  S 

Anthracine  Yellow  B  N,  C,  G  G, 

R  Math  WGS,  WCh 

Anthracite  Black  BR  Math   WGS 

Anthracyanine  B  L,  D  L,  F  L, 

3FL  By  WGS,  WCh 

Anthragallol  or  Anthracine  Brown  Math   W  Ch 

Anthramine  Yellow  At   W  Ch 

Anthraquinone  Blue  S  R  B   W  G  S  Ch 

Anthraquinone  Green  G,  G  extra  .  B. . .  W  G  S,  W  G  S  Ch 

Anthraquinone  Violet  B   WGS 

Archil  Substitute  N  Powder  Math   WGS 

Archil  Substitute  G  Powder  Mz   WGS 

Archil  Extract  1,  2,  3,  4  Math,  Mz.  .  WGS 

Atlas  Scarlet  By   WGS 

AuracineG  By   CT 

Auramine  G,  O,  I,  II  cone  Kip,  Mz,  B  W  G,  C  T 

Aurantia  A   SS 

Aureoline  Kip   CD 

Aurophenine  Mz   CD 

Aurophosphine  G  A   SA 

Azindon  Blue  G,  R  Mz   C  T 

Azin  Green  G  O,  B  07  T  O  Mz  W  G  S,  C  T 

Azo  Acid  Black  B,  B  L,  G,  G  L, 

3  B  L,  R,  T  L  extra  cone,  T  L 

No.  2  extra,  S  S,  S  S  cone  Mz   WGS 

Azo  Acid  Blue  B,  3  B  cone.,  3BOMz   WGS 


214 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Azo  Acid  Brown  By   W  G  S 

Azo  Acid  Carmine  B  Mz   W  G  S 

Azo  Acid  Fuchsine  B,  G  Mz   WGS 

Azo  Acid  Magenta  B,  G,  B  cone, 

G  cone  Mz   WGS 

Azo  Acid  Red  B,  B  A,  5  B  Mz   WGS 

Azo  Acid  Ruby  2  B  Bs   WGS 

Azo  Acid  Violet  AL,  2  AB  By   WGS 

Azo  Acid  Violet  R  extra,  4R  By   WGS 

Azo  Archil  R  A   WGS 

Azo  Benzol  Fast  Crimson  B   WGS 

Azo  Black  0  Mz  W  G  S,  S  S 

Azo  Blue  Mz,  By,  A.  CD 

Azo  Bordeaux  By   WGS 

Azo  Brown  N  Bs,  Math  . .  WGS 

Azo  Brown  O,  V  Mz   WGS 

Azo  Carmine  G  A   WGS 

Azo  Cardinal  G  A   WGS 

Azo  Coccine  or  Cloth  Red,  Tro- 

paeolineOOOO  A   WGS 

Azo  Coccine  2  R  A   WGS 

Azo  Cochineal  By   WGS 

Azo  Coralline  Bs   WGS 

Azo  Crimson  L,  S  By   WGS 

AzoEosine  By   WGS 

Azo  Flavine  Bs,  B  W  G  S,  S  S 

Azophone  Black  At   CD 

Azophone  Green  B,  G  At   CD 

Azo  Fuchsine  B,  G,  G  N,  S  By   WGS 

Azo  Green  By   W  Ch 

Azo  Grenadine  S  By   WGS 

Azo  Merino  Blue  3  B,  G  Math   WGS 

Azo  Merino  Dark  Blue  R  Math   WGS 

Azo  Navy  Blue  B,  3  B  Math   WGS 

Azo  Orange  R  Kip   CD 

Azo  Orseille  B  B  Math   WGS 

AzoOrseilleR  A   WGS 

Azo  Patent  Black,  3  B  K,  4  B  K, 

3BKN  K   WGS 

Azophloxine  2G  By   WGS 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


215 


Azo  Rubine  A  Math   WGS 

AzoRubineSG  A   WGS 

Azo  Ruby  S,  2  S  A   WGS 

Azo  Violet  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Azo  Wool  Blue  B,  S  E,  Math   WGS 

Azo  Yellow  Mz,Klp...  SS 

Azo  Yellow  cone  Mz   WGS 

Azo  Yellow  M  Kip   WGS,SS 

Azo  Yellow  OR  Mz   WGS,SS 

Basel  Blue  B  B,  S  Kip  W  G  S,  C  T 

Bengal  Pink  Kip   WGS 

Benzoazurine  G,  3  G,  R,  3  R  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Benzo  Black  Mz,  By ...  .  CD 

Benzo  Black  Blue  G,  5  G,  R  Mz,  By .  .  .  .  CD 

Benzo  Black  Brown  By   CD 

Benzo  Blue  B,  B  B,  3  B,  B  X  By   CD 

Benzo  Bordeaux  6  B  By   CD 

Benzo  Brown  G,  5  R,  R  C,  N  B, 

MC  By   CD 

Benzo  Chrome  Black  B  By   CD 

Benzo  Chrome  Black  Blue  B  By   CD 

Benzo  Chrome  Brown  B,  B  S,  5  G, 

R,3R  By   CD 

Benzo  Copper  Blue  B,  2  B  By   CD 

Benzo  Cyanine  B,  3  B,  R  By   CD 

Benzo  Dark  Green  B,  B  B,  G  G.  .  .By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Black  3B,G  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Blue  B,  Bn  G,  5  R  .  . .  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Gray  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Orange  S  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Pink  2BL  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Red  L,  G  L,  F  C, 

9BL  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Scarlet  4  B  S,  8  B  S, 

5BS  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Violet  R,  N  By   CD 

Benzo  Fast  Yellow  5GL  By   CD 

Benzo  Gray  By   CD 

Benzo  Green  G,  C  By   CD 

Benzo  Indigo  Blue  By   CD 


216 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Benzo  Nitrol  Brown  G,  N,  2  R. . . .  By   CD 

Benzo  Olive  extra  By   CD 

Benzo  Orange  R  A,  By   CD 

Benzopurpurine  B,  4  B,  6  B,  10  B.  Mz,  By,  A  .  CD 

Benzopurpurine  4  Bex  cone  Mz   CD 

Benzopurpurine  4  B  double  Mz   CD 

Benzo  Red  S  G,  10  B,  12  B  By   CD 

Benzo  Rhodamine  3  B  By   CD 

Benzo  Rhoduline  Red  B,3B  By   CD 

Benzo  Sky  Blue  Mz,  By,  A  .  CD 

Benzo  Violet  R  L  extra  By   CD 

Benzyl  Acid  Black  B  B  Kip   W  G  S 

Benzyl  Black  B,  4  B  Kip   W  G  S 

Benzyl  Blue  S  Kip   WGS 

Benzyl  Bordeaux  B  Kip   WGS 

Benzyl  Blue  S  Kip   WGS 

Benzyl  Green  G,  B  Kip   WGS 

Benzyl  Violet  4  B,  10  B,  5  B, 

5BN  Kip   WGS 

Berlin  Blue  A  A   WGS 

Bismarck  Brown  A,  Math,  B, 

and  others.  .  CT 

Bismarck  Brown  B,  G,  T  Kip   CT 

Bismarck  Brown  E  E,  F  F  G,  G  G, 

YS8049.  Math   CT 

Bismarck  Brown  R,  Y  Rex  Mz   CT 

Black  Black  0,  Black  Blue  O  Mz   S  S,  W  G  S 

Blue  Black  B  B   WGS 

Blue  Black  GR,  5  G  Kip   WGS 

BlueBS  Math   WGS 

Blue  for  Silk  Math   WGS 

Blue  Green  Shade  Mz  .  .  .  .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Blue  Red  Shade  Mz  . . . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Blue  T  cone  Mz   WGS,SS 

Blue  2111  At   CD 

Body  Blue  O  Mz  .  . .  .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Bordeaux  B  L  Math  . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Bordeaux  BX  By   WGS 

BordeauxCOV  A   CD 

Bordeaux  DH  Kip   WGS 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


217 


Bordeaux  Diamine  B,  S  Math   CD 

Bordeaux  extra  By   W  G  S 

Bordeaux  R  extra  Bs,  By .  .  .  W  G  S 

Bordeaux  S  A   WGS 

Bright  Blue  extra  Mz   CD 

Bright  Yellow  T  Mz,  B   CD 

Brilliant  Acid  Green  6B  By   WGS 

Brilliant  Alizarine  RR,5R  By   CD 

Brilliant  Alizarine  Blue  D,  G,  R, 

3  R  powder  By   WCh 

Brilliant  Alizarine  Blue  EM  Mz   W  Ch 

Brilliant  Alizarine  Bordeaux  R   W  Ch 

Brilliant  Alizarine  Cyanine  G,  3  G  By   W  Ch 

Brilliant  Alizarine  Vividine  F  ....  By   W  Ch 

Brilliant  Azurine  5  G  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Brilliant  Azurine  B,  R  A,  By   CD 

Brilliant  Benzo  Green  B  By   CD 

Brilliant  Black  B  B   WGS 

Brilliant  Bordeaux  S  A   WGS 

Brilliant  Carmoisin  O  A   WGS 

Brilliant  Cochineal  2  R,  4  R  Math   W  G 

Brilliant  Congo  G,  R  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Brilliant  Cotton  Blue  Greenish  ...  By   C  T 

Brilliant  Crimson  B,  O,  N  Mz  WGS,CT 

Brilliant  Crocein  Blue  and  Yel- 
low Mz....WGS,SS,CA 

Brilliant  Crocein  A  Z  Math   WGS 

Brilliant  Crocein  B,BB  Mz   WGS,SS 

Brilliant  Crocein  3B  Mz,  By, 

Math   WGS,SS 

Brilliant  Crocein  BOO  Math   WGS 

Brilliant  Crocein  M  0  O  and  M  .  .  .  Math   WGS 

Brilliant  Cyanine  Blue  R  By   W  Ch 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R,  R  cone  .  .  .  Mz   CD 

Brilliant  Direct  Navy  Blue  Bs   CD 

Brilliant  Firn  Blue  Kip   C  T 

Brilliant  Geranine  Blue  3  B,  B ...  By   CD 

Brilliant  Lake  Scarlet  G,  R,  2R  .  .Mz   WGS,SS 

Brilliant  Orange  G,  O.  R  Mz,  A   W  G  S,  S  S 

Brilliant  Orcelline  pat  Math   WGS 


218 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Brilliant  Orseille  C  Math   W  G  S 

Brilliant  Ponceau  4R  By   WGS 

Brilliant  Ponceau  5R  Bs  ,  By, 

Math   WGS 

Brilliant  Purpurine  10  B  A   CD 

Brilliant  Purpurine  R  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Brilliant  Red  D  Kip   WGS 

Brilliant  Rubine  O  Mz   W  G  S,  S  S 

Brilliant  Scarlet  G,  G  G,  R,  R  R, 

3R,4R,6R,T  Math   WGS 

Brilliant  Sky  Blue  G  Bs   CD 

Brilliant  Sky  Blue  G,5G  By   CD 

Brilliant Sulphon  Azurine  R  By   CD 

Brilliant  Sulphon  Red  B  By  W  G  A  (acetic) 

Brilliant  Wool  Blue  B  extra,  G 

extra  By   SS,WGS 

Brilliant  Yellow  Mz,  By,  A  .  W  G  S,  S  S 

Brilliant  Yellow  S  B   W  G  S,  S  S 

Bronze  Diamine  G  Math   CD 

Cachou  Diamine  Math   CD 

Campanuline  A   CD 

Car  bozol  Yellow  B   CD 

Carbide  Black  B  O,  R,  R  O,  E, 

E  R,  R  extra,  S,  S  E,  S  O  Kip   CD 

Carbon  Black  B,  B  D,  B  W,  4  B, 

GAT  Mz   WGS 

Carmoisin  and  Carmoisin  cone. .  .A,  By,  B  .  .  WGS 

Cashmere  Black  B,  6  B,  T  Kip   WGS 

Cashmere  Blue  T  G  By   WGS 

Cashmere  Brown  By   WGS 

Cashmere  Green  B  By   WGS 

Cerise  Mz  ,  Kip, 

Math,  B.WG,S  A,CT 

Chestnut  Brown  A   CD 

Chicago  Blue  B,  4  B,  6  B,  R,  2  R, 

4R,RW  A   CD 

China  Blue  Mz,  A,  By  . 

WGS,SS,CT 

Chinoline  Yellow  By,  Mz,  B  .  WGS 

Chloramine  Brown  C  G  By ....... .  CD 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


219 


Chloramine  Orange  R  By   CD 

Chloramine  Red  8BS  By   CD 

Chloramine  Violet  By   CD 

Chloramine  Yellow  G  G,  C,  F  F, 

W  extra  By   CD 

Chlorantine  Violet,  Blue,  Red, 

Lilac  Kip   CD 

Chromanil  Black,  R  F,  B  F,  2  B  F, 

3BF  A   CD 

Chromanil  Brown  G  G,  R,  2  G. .  .  .  A   CD 

Chromate  Black  6  B,  T  B  4  B  A   W  G  S  Ch 

Chrome  Black  B,  T  Mz   W  G  S  Ch 

Chrome  Blue  By,  Math. .  W  Ch 

Chrome  Blue  B  Mz   WCh 

Chrome  Bordeaux  By   WCh 

Chrome  Brown  B  O,  R  O  Mz   W  Ch 

Chrome  CyanineG,T  By   WACh 

Chrome  Fast  Black  B,  F  A   W  Ch 

Chrome  Fast  Black  F,  P,  PWWR.  Kip   W  G  S  Ch 

Chrome  Fast  Blue  B,4B  A   WGSCh 

Chrome  Fast  Brown  A,  B  C,  G,  R .  Kip   W  G  S  Ch 

Chrome  Fast  Cyanine  B  Kip   W  G  S  Ch 

Chrome  Fast  Green  G  Kip   W  G  S  Ch 

Chrome  Fast  Red  B,  G  R  A..   WGSCh 

Chrome  Fast  Yellow  G,  2  G,R....  A   WCh 

Chrome  Orange  By   W  Ch 

Chrome  Prune  By   W  Ch 

Chrome  Yellow  D,  G  By   W  Ch 

ChromogenI  Mz   WGSCh 

Chromotrop 2B,6B,8B,10B,2RMz   WGSCh 

Chromotrop  D  W,  F  B,  S,  S  B, 

SN,SR,F4B  Mz   WGSCh 

Chromotrop  Blue  A,  W  B,  W  G . .  .  Mz   W  B  S  Ch 

Chrysamine  Mz   CD 

Chrysamine  G  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Chrysamine  GG  By   CD 

Chrysamine  R  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Chrysoidine  Mz,  A,  By, 

B  WN,SA,CT 

Chrysoidine  A  G,  F  F  Math  .  .  .  W  N,  S  A,  C  T 


220 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Chrysoidine  G  Kip  WN,SA,CT 

Chrysoidine  Y,  Y  Y  Mz,  Math.  . 

WN,SA,CT 
Chrysoidine  Brown  Math  

WN,SA,CT 

Chrysphenine  R  Mz,  A,  By  .  W  Ch,  C  D 

Chrysophinine  G  Mz   W  Ch,  C  D 

Chrysophenine  cone,  and  extra 

cone  Mz   WCh,CD 

Citronine  Mz,  Kip  ...  WG  S,  SS 

Claret  Red  B,  3  B,  <J,  G  R,  R,  B 

extra,  O,  S  Mz   WGS 

Cloth BlueO  Mz. . .  .WGS,SS,CT 

Cloth  Brown,  Reddish  and  Yel- 
lowish Mz,By.  ...  WCh 

Cloth  Orange  Mz,  By . . .  .  W  Ch 

Cloth  Red  Mz   WCh 

Cloth  Red  B  Mz,  By ,  Bs  W  Ch 

Cloth  Red  B  A  A   WCh 

Cloth  Red  3  B  extra  By   WCh 

Cloth  Red  G ,  G  extra,  3  G  extra  .  .  By   WCh 

Cloth  Red  G  A,  3  G  A  A   WCh 

Cloth  RedO  Mz   WCh 

Cloth  Red  R  Bs   WCh 

Coccine2B  A   WGS 

CoccininB  Mz   WGS 

Cochineal  Red  A  B   WGS 

Cochineal  Scarlet  PS  By   WGS 

Cochineal  Substitute  Kip   WGS 

Coelestine  Blue  B  By   CT 

Coeruleine  A,  B,  S,  B  W  R  Mz   WCh 

Coeruleine  S  Powder  Bz,  By, 

Klp,B...  WCh 

CoeruleineS  W  Powder  Mz,  By . . .  .  W  Ch 

Cold  Black  BR  A   CD 

Columbia  Black  B,  B  B,  F  B,  R, 

FF  A   CD 

Columbia  Black  F  F  extra,  F  F 
strong,  F  2  B,  2  B  X,  2  B  W, 

E  A  extra,  W  A  extra  A   CD 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


221 


Columbia  Black  Green  D  A   CD 

Columbia  Black  Blue  G  A   CD 

Columbia  Blue  GR  A   CD 

Columbia  Bordeaux  A   CD 

Columbia  Brown  R,  M  A   CD 

Columbia  Chrome  Black  BB  A   CD 

Columbia  Fast  Black  V  extra  A   CD 

Columbia  Fast  Blue2G  A   CD 

Columbia  Fast  Red  F  and  Fast 

Scarlet  4  B  A   CD 

Columbia  Green  A   CD 

Columbia  Red  8  B,  6  B,  4  B,  2  B  .  A   CD 

Columbia  Yellow  A   CD 

Concentrated  Cotton  Blue  R,  2  R, 

1,  2,  3,  4  B  Mz  .  WGS,  SS,  C  A  L 

Congo  A,  By   WN,CD 

Congo  B  B,  G  R  A,  By   CD 

Congo  Blue  B  X,  R,  2  B,  3  B, 

2  B  X  A   CD 

Congo  Brown  G,  R  A   CD 

Congo  Corinth  B,  G  A,  By   CD 

Congo  Fast  Blue  B,  R  A   CD 

Congo  GR  A,  By   CD 

Congo  Orange  G,  R  A   CD 

Congo  Red  Mz,  Kip, 

By,  A   CD 

Congo  Rubine  and  Violet  A   CD 

Copper  Black  S,  B,  B  extra  Mz   W  G  S 

Cotton  Bordeaux  B   CD 

Cotton  Brown  B   CD 

Cotton  Brown  N  Math   CD 

Cotton  Brown  R,G  B   CD 

Cotton  Green  C  G  A   CD 

Cotton  Orange  G,R  B   CD 

Cotton  Red  4  B.  B   CD 

Cotton  Scarlet  B   CD 

Cotton  Scarlet  O  Mz   CD 

Cotton  Scarlet  Yellowish  Math   S  A,  C  T 

Cotton  Yellow  G,GB,R  B   CD 

Cresotine  Yellow  G,  R  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 


222 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Criterion  Blue  G  At   W  G  S 

Croceine  Scarlet  3  B  By   W  G  S,  C  D 

Croceine  Scarlet  7  B,  8  B,  10  B  ...  By   WGS 

Crow  Black  Mz,  B   CD 

Crystal  Scarlet  6  R  Mz,  Math .  .  W  G  S,  S  S 

Crystal  Violet  5  B  O  Kip  W  N,  S  S,  C  T 

Crystal  Violet  O  Mz,  B   W  N,  S  A 

Crystal  Violet  P  By   W  N,  S  A 

Curcumine  S,  S  extra  Mz,  A,  By  .  .CD 

Cutch  Brown  D,  G  Mz  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

CyanineB  Mz   WGS,SS 

Cyanol  extra,  B  B,  F  F,  C  Math   WGS 

Cyanole  Fast  Green  G  Math   WGS 

CyanoleGreenB,CG,6G  Math   WGS 

Dark  Brown  M,  M  B  Mz  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Dark  Green  B   WGS 

Deep  Wool  Black  2  B,  3  B  A   WG 

Delphine  Blue  B,  B  cone  Mz   W  Ch 

Delia  Purpurine  5  B,  7  B,  G  By   CD 

Diamine  Azo  Black  B,  B  B  pat . .  .  Math   CD 

Diamine  Azo  Blue  54,  55,  R,  R  R 

pat  Math   CD 

Diamine  Benzol  Blue  G,  R  Math   CD 

Diamine  Black  B,  B  H,  B  O,  H  W, 

RO,BX,RMW...  Math   CD 

Diamine  Black  Blue  B,  Green  N .  .  Math   CD 

Diamine  Blue  B,  2  B,  3  B,  B  G, 

BX,C4B,  6G,C4R,LG,C2 

R,  L  R,  N  C,  R  W,  3  R,  S  R  X, 

50,  52,  53,  55,  A  B,  A  Z  Math   CD 

Diamine  Blue  Black  E,  72529,  R, 

RL  Math   CD 

Diamine  Bordeaux  B,  S  Math   CD 

Diamine  Brilliant  Blue  G,  Bor- 
deaux R,  Scarlet  S  Math   CD 

Diamine  Bronze  B,  C,  S  F  Math   CD 

Diamine  Brown  B,  G  G,  3  G,  M,  O 

O,  Q  Q,  V,  31,  32,  34,  35,  36,  37 .  Math   CD 

Diamine  Catechine  B,  G  pat.,  3  G, 

Catechu,  Cutch  Math   CD 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


Diamine  Cyanine  B,  3  B,  R,  Dark 

Blue  B.  R  Math 

Diamine  Dark  Green,  Deep  Blue 

RB  Math 

Diamine  Deep  Dark  Blue  B,  R, 

Fast  Black  L  Math 

Diamine  Fast  Blue  C,  F  F  B, 

FFG,  G  Math. 

Diamine  Fast  Brown  G,  Fast  Red 

F,  Fast  Scarlet  B  B,  4  B,  6  B, 
GG,4BN,6BS,8BN  Math 

Diamine  Fast  Yellow  A,  A  R,  B, 

FF,M,3G  Math 

Diamine  Gold,  Gold  Yellow,  Gray 

G,  Green  B,  G,  C  L,  Heliotrope 

G  Math 

Diamine  Milling  Black  B,  F  G 

extra  Math 

Diamine  Jet  Black  CR,00,4D, 

RB,SE,S000,  J  EI  Math 

Diamine  New  Blue  G,  P,  R  Math 

Diamine  Nitrazol  Black  B  Math 

Diamine  Nitrazo,  Brown  B,  B  D, 

T,G,RD  Math 

Diamine  Orange  D,  D  C,  G,  G  C, 

R,B  Math 

Diamine  Red  B,  3  B,  10  B,  D, 

No.  72732  Math 

Diamine  Rose  RD,B  extra,  B  G, 

GD,GGN  Math 

Diamine  Scarlet  B,  3  B  Math 

Diamine  Sky  Blue  F  F,  Steel  Blue 

L  Math 

Diamine  Violet  N,  Violet  Red. . .  .  Math 
Diamineral  Black,  Blue,  Brown  . .  Math 
Dianil  Brilliant  Black  B,  G,  2  G, 

R,2R  Mz.. 

Dianil  Brilliant  Yellow  S  Mz. . . 

Dianil  Brown  B,BD,BH  Mz. . 

Dianil  Brown  D  Mz . . 


224  THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 

Dianil  Brown  G,  2  G,  3  G  O,  3  G  I, 

3GA  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Brown  M,MH  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Brown  ft,  3  R  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Brown  X  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Chrome  Brown  G,  R  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Claret  B,  G  Mz  ,.,  C  D 

Dianil  Crimson  B,  G  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Dark  Blue  R,  3  R  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Dark  Green  B,  X,  X  cone .  .  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Deep  Black  B  cone,  F  F 

cone,  T  V  cone,  B  R  extra 

cone  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Fast  Red  F  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8BS  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Green  G,  B,  B  N,  B  B  N, 

GN  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Indigo  O  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Orange  F,  G,  O,  B  M  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Pink  BD  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Red  4  B,  6  B  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Scarlet  G,  2  R  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Violet  H  Mz   CD 

Dianil  Yellow  G,  3  G,  R,  O  O, 

MB  Mz   CD 

Diazethy  1  Black  B,  R  By   CD 

Diazine  Black  BR  S  K   CD 

Diazine  Brown  K   CD 

Diazine  Green  K   CD 

Diazine  Black  K   CD 

Diazyl  Black  Bs   CD 

Diazyl  Brown  G,  T  Bs   CD 

Dimethyl  Orange  Bs   CD 

Diphenylamine  Blue  Mz   CD 

DirectBlackBFG  A   CD 

Direct  Black  GBNK&G  Kip   CD 

Direct  Black  X  Bs   CD 

Direct  Black  B  K  Kip   CD 

Direct  Black  D  R,  X  Bs   CD 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


225 


Direct  Black  No.  5062  At   CD 

Direct  Blue  B  Mz,  K,  Kip.  C  D 

Direct  Blue  3  B  N  K   CD 

Direct  Blue  GR  Mz   CD 

Direct  Blue  R  Mz   CD 

Direct  Blue  Black  2  B  By   CD 

Direct  Brilliant  Blue  B  M  Mz   CD 

Direct  Brown  B  B  Bs   CD 

Direct  Brown  G  G  By   CD 

Direct  Brown  G  X  Bs   CD 

Direct  Brown  J  Kip   CD 

Direct  Brown  NX  Bs   CD 

Direct  Brown  T  B  Mz   CD 

Direct  Brown  TS,  TSB  Kip   CD 

Direct  Brown  V  X  Bs   CD 

Direct  Dark  Green  Mz   CD 

Direct  Deep  Black  E,  R,  R  W,  T, 

E  extra,  R  W  extra  By   CD 

Direct  Deep  Red  P  At   CD 

Direct  Fast  Brown  B;GG  By   CD 

Direct  Gray  B  Kip   CD 

Direct  Gray  Reddish  Kip   CD 

Direct  Green  CP  Kip   CD 

Direct  Green  C,  C  B  Mz   CD 

Direct  Green  P,  A  Kip   CD 

Direct  Green  Y  Kip   CD 

Direct  Indigo  Blue  A,  B  N  Kip   CD 

Direct  Indigo  Blue  R  B  At   CD 

Direct  Indigo  Blue  BK  Kip   CD 

Direct  Lemon  Yellow  Kip   CD 

Direct  Orange  2R  K   CD 

Direct  Safranine  B  By   CD 

Direct  Salmon  At   CD 

Direct  Scarlet  B  cone  K   CD 

Direct  Scarlet  G  K   CD 

Direct  Scarlet  R  K   CD 

Direct  Yellow  CP  Kip   CD 

Direct  Yellow  BSR,  BLR  At   CD 

Direct  Yellow  T  Kip   CD 

Discharge  Black  A  F  Mz   WGS,SS 

15 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Double  Brilliant  Scarlet  3R  By   WGS 

Double  Green  S  F  K   WGS 

Double  Ponceau  2  R,  3  R,  4  R. ..  .By   WGS 

Double  Scarlet  K   WGS 

Double  Scarlet  extra  S  A   WGS 

Ebony  Black  Kip   CD 

ElgeneBaseB  A   CD 

Emerald  Green  Cryst  B,  B,  By . . 

WG,SA,CT 

ErminRed  A   WGS 

Empire  Black  B,G  A   WACh 

EosineA  B   WA,SA 

Eosine  2  A,  A  G,  A  6  G  Mz   WA,SA 

Eosine  B,  B  B  Kip   W  A,  S  A 

Eosine  3  B  Mz   WA,SA 

Eosine  10  B,  B  F  Math   W  A,  S  A 

Eosine  BN  Math,B...  WA,SA 

Eosine  D  H,  D  H  V  Kip   WA,SA 

Eosine  Extra,  Extra  Yellow,  Yel- 
low, Extra  cone,  Extra  B  B,  A 

G,  A  3  G,  A  5  G,  D  Mz   WA,SA 

Eosine  G  Math   WA,SA 

Eosine  GGB,  GGF,  GGG  Math   WA,SA 

Eosine  J  B   WA,SA 

Eosine  3  J,  4  J  extra  Mz   WA,  SA 

Eosine  J  J  F  Math   W  A,  S  A 

Eosine  S  B   WA,SA 

Eosine  2110, 5765  Math   W  A,  S  A 

Eosine  Scarlet  B  Mz,  Math. .  W  A,  S  A 

Eosine  Scarlet  B  B  extra  Mz   WA,SA 

Erika  B,  B  N,  B  ex  A   CD 

ErikaG,Gex  A   CD 

Erika  3  G  N,  2  G  N  A   CD 

Erythrine  B   WGS 

ErythrineX  B   SA 

Erythrosine  Mz,  B   W  A 

Erythrosine  A  cone,  pure  Mz   foods 

Erythrosine  AG  Mz   W  A 

Erythrosine  B,BB  A   WA 

Erythrosine  Yellow  Shade  Mz,  Math .  .  W  A 


OF  TEXTILE 

FABRICS. 

227 

171x1       1  TT  I           TT  1~7\ 

Ethyl  Blue  B  F  

. .  .Mz  

C  T 

Ethyl  Green  

...B  

WGS 

T71           1*            Tl          ri           1     x      T  "NT 

Excelsior  Lake  Scarlet  J  N, 

2  J 

C  N  

. .  .Math  

W  G  S 

Fast  Acid  Black  3  B,  R,  T  

. .  .Mz  

W  A 

T7I        x     A      *    1  TT  1  T» 

Fast  Acid  Blue  B  

•By  

WGS 

Fast  Acid  Blue  R,  R  cone  

. .  .Mz  

ITT  /T  fT     r~i  r~< 

.  WGS,  SS 

b ast  Acid  Eosme  G,  G  extra. 

. .  .Mz  

WGS 

Tl        j     A      *    1  /~*\                  T~»     TT   AT     T»  Ci  T~t 

Fast  Acid  Green  B,BN,BS,B 

;  Z.Math  

WGS 

TT1         a      A       *    1   /T                   TT    T  ^  a 

b  ast  Acid  Green  B  B  extra  .  .  . 

. .  .Mz  

WGS 

*  ast  Acid  Magenta  G,  G  cone 

. .  .Mz  

WGS 

Fast  Acid  Phloxine  

. .  .Mz  

WGS 

T71        a     A      '    1   T  1 

1^  ast  Acid  .Ponceau  

. .  .Kip  

ITT  c\ 

WGS 

Fast  Acid  Red  A,  B  

. .  .Mz  

ITT  Ot 

WGS 

Fast  Acid  Scarlet  

. .  .Kip  

ttt  a 

WGS 

TT1        X     A      *    1  TT*      1     X     A    <T  "TT      TT»     TT  T71 

Fast  Acid  Violet  A  2  R,  B,  B  E 

. .  .Mz  

ITT         Ci  C~i 

W  G  S,  S  S 

TT"'       x    A      'ITT'     1    i  i  a  TT 

Fast  Acid  Violet  10  B  

By  

WGS 

T71        a     A      '    1  IT'     1     X  TT     TT   Tl   TT*     T~»  r\ 

Fast  Acid  Violet  R,  R  B  E,  R  G 

E  Mz  

W  G  S,  W  Ch 

TT*       X    A  x 

Fast  AzoGrenat  

.  ..Mz  

WGS 

Try     x  T»  l        t~>  f*  l 

Fast  Blue  B  for  wool  

Mz,  A,  B  . 

WGS 

Fast  Blue  5  B  Greenish  

.  ..Mz  

WGS 

Fast  Blue  B,BA,3B,6  B, 

for 

wool  

...A  

WGS 

Fast  Blue  D  

. .  .Mz  

•WGS 

Fast  Blue  Extra  Greenish  

..  .Mz  

WGS 

TT*      x  TT1  x 

Fast  Blue  G  extra  

. .  .Mz  

WGS 

TT*      x  TT1  r» 

Fast  Blue  6  G  

. .  .Math  

WGS 

TT*i       x  T"»  1          /'"A     /"\  /^V 

Fast  Blue  0,  0  0  

Mz,  Kip  . . 

WGS 

Fast  Blue  R  

M  z  ,  A 

Math,B. 

WGS 

TT*       X  T>1          TT     TT     A      f*  1 

Fast  Blue  R,  R  A,  for  wool 

..  .A  

WGS 

Fast  Blue  2  R,  3  R,  5  R,  No.  60 

.  .  .Mz  '.  . 

WGS 

Fast  Blue  R  D,  R  R  D  

. .  .Math  

WGS 

Fast  Bordeaux  0  

.  ..Mz  

WCh 

Fast  Brown  

. .  .Mz  

WGS 

.b  ast  Brown  3  B,  G  

...A  

WGS 

Tr*  .x  T")   "\T 

b  ast  Brown  IN  

.  ..B  

WGS 

Fast  Brown  0  N  T  yellowish 

. .  .Mz  

WGS,SS 

Fast  Brown  R  

. .  .Mz,B. . . . 

CD 

228 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Fast  Brown  25  A   WGS 

Fast  Claret  RedO  Mz   WGS,SS 

Fast  Cotton  Orange  6  R  extra.  .  .  .  Bs   CD 

Fast  Cotton  Yellow  10  G  Mz  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Fast  Dark  Blue  B  Mz   WGS 

Fast  Diamine  Yellow  A  R  R  Bs   CD 

Fast  Direct  Brown  BB,  G  Bs   CD 

Fast  Fulling  Blue  R  R  Bs   CD 

Fast  Gray  BR  Kip   WCh 

Fast  Green  Crystals  O  Mz   W  Ch 

Fast  Green  Extra,  Extra  Bluish  . .  By   WGS 

Fast  Green  B,  C  R  By   WGS 

Fast  Green  B  Math   WGS 

Fast  Green  C  R  Bs   W  A  Ch 

Fast  Green  M,SS  By   WGS 

Fast  Light  Green  K   WGS 

Fast  Light  Orange  G  By   WGS 

Fast  Light  Yellow  G,  2  G,  3  G  . . . .  By   WGS 

Fast  Mordant  Blue,  BR  Mz  . . .  W Ch,  W G  S Ch 

Fast  Mordant  Yellow  G  By   WGS 

Fast  Navy  Blue  M  K   WGS 

Fast  Pink  B  At   WGS 

Fast  Pink  for  Silk  Kip   CD 

Fast  Red  A,  By,  B  . .  WGS 

Fast  Red  A,  B  B   WGS 

FastRedBT  By,  Kip  . . .  WGS 

Fast  Red  C,  D,  E  B   WGS 

Fast  Red  E,B  Bs   WGS,SS 

FastRedNS  By   WGS,SS 

Fast  RedO  Mz   WGS 

Fast  Red  RR,RY  B   WGS,SS 

Fast  Scarlet  B  K   WGS 

Fast  Silk  Gray  O  Mz   SS 

Fast  Violet  Kip   WCh 

Fast  Violet  B  Mz   WCh 

Fast  Violet  Bluish,  Reddish  By   WGS 

Fast  Wool  Blue  A  A   WGS 

Fast  Wool  Blue  R  L  By   WGS 

Fast  Yellow  By,  Math,  B.  WGS 

Fast  Yellow  Greenish  Bs   WGS 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


229 


Fast  Yellow  R  K   WGS 

Fast  Yellow  S  Mz,  Math. .  WGS 

Fast  Yellow  TS  Mz   CD 

Filling  Blue  Kip   WCh 

Firn  Blue  Kip.  ..WGS,SS,CT 

FlavazineS,L,T,RL  Mz   WGS 

Flavazol  A   WGS 

Fluorescine  G ,  R,  6836  Math   W  G  S,  S  S 

FormylBlueB  Math  .WGS,WGSCh 

Formyl  Violet  4  B,  6  B,  8  B,  10  B, 

S4B,S5B  Math.  WGS,WGSCh 

FramBlueG  By   WGS 

Fuchsine  Mz,  By, 

Kip,  Math,  B   WG,SS 

Fuchsine  FCOOB  Math   W  G,  S  S 

Fuchsine  S  Mz. . . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Full  Blue  O  Kip   WCh 

Fulling  Black  K   WCh 

Fulling  Blue  G,R  Mz,Bs....  WGS 

Fulling  Blue  J  B  Mz   C  Dv 

Fulling  Brown  J  B,  J  R  Mz   C  Dv 

Fulling  Red  B  Math   WGS 

Fulling  Red  B,  F  G  G,  FR,G.  ..  .Bs   WGS 

Fulling  Red  J  B  Mz   C  Dv 

Fulling  Red  R  Bs   WCh 

Fulling  Yellow  J  G,  J  R  Mz   WGS 

Fulling  Yellow  O  Math  . . . .  W  G  S,  W  Ch 

Fulling  Yellow  0  0  By   W  Ch 

Gallanil  Green  Kip   WCh 

Gallanil  Indigo R,  PS  Kip   W Ch 

Gallanil  Violet  Kip   WCh 

G allocyanine BS,  DH  Mz,  By,  B  .  WCh 

Geranium  G  N  By   W  N,  C  T 

Geranine  B  B,  G  Mz,  By . . .  .  CD 

Glacier  Blue  Kip. . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Gloria  Black  B  Math   W  S  A 

Gold  Orange  Bs,  By  . . . .  W  G  S,  C  T 

Gold  Yellow  By   WGS,SS 

Grenadine  Mz  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Guinea  Bordeaux B  A   WGS 


230 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Guinea  Carmine  B  A   WGS 

Guinea  Fast  Green  A   WGS 

Guinea  Fast  Violet  10  B  A   WGS 

Guinea  Green  B,  G,  B  extra  A   WGS 

Guinea  Red4R  A   WGS 

Guinea  Violet  4B  A   WGS 

Half  wool  Black  L  S  By   C  W  D 

Half  wool  Black  S  Math   C  W  D 

Half  wool  Blue  B,BD  Mz   CWD 

Half  wool  Blue  G  Math   CWD 

Half  wool  BlackS,  2  B,  3  B  Math   CWD 

Half  wool  Black  W  Mz   CWD 

Hat  Black  F  C,MC  Math   WGS 

Heliotrope  and  Heliotrope  B,  2  B .  Mz,  A,  By .  CD 

Hessian  Bordeaux  Mz   CD 

Hessian  Brilliant  Purple  Mz,  A,  By  .  CD 

Hessian  Brown  B  B,  M  M  Bs   CD 

Hessian  Purple  B,  D,  N  Mz,  A,  By  .  .  CD 

Hessian  Violet  Mz,  A ,  By  .  CD 

Hessian  Yellow  Mz,  A ,  By  .  CD 

Hoechst  New  Blue  Mz   WGS 

Imperial  Black  At   WGS 

Imperial  Scarlet  By   WGS 

Imperial  Violet  Crystals  At   WGS 

Indamine  Blue  A,  N  B,  N  extra  R.Mz   CT 

Indian  Yellow  By   WGS,SS 

Indian  Yellow  G,R,FF....  Math   CD 

Indigen  Blue  B  B,  R  Kip   CD 

Indigo  Blue  N  Math   W  G 

Indigo  BIueBNK  Kip   CD 

Indigo  Blue  R  B  Math   WGS 

Indigo  Substitute  B,  B  S  pat  Mz   W  G  S,  S  S 

Indigo  Synthetic  100%  powder. . .  Mz   Vat 

Indigotine  L  No.  150  Math   WGS 

Indigotine  extra  L  and  No.  1  Kip   WGS 

Indocyanine  B,  B  F,  2  R,  2  R  F. . .  A   W  A 

Induline 2 N, 2 N Greenish, SV..Mz   WGS,SS 

Intense  Blue  By   WGS 

Janus  Black  0, 1,2,  D  Mz   SA 

Janus  Blue  B,R  Mz   SA 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


231 


Janus  Brown  B,  R  Mz   SA 

Janus  Gray  B,  B  B  Mz   S  A 

Janus  Green  B,  G  Mz   S  A 

Janus  Yellow  GR  Mz   SA 

Kermesine  Orange  Mz   WGS 

Ketone  Blue  B  4  N,  G,  R  Mz   WGS,SS 

Ketone  Green  N  N  Kip   WGS 

Kimensi  Orange  G,RR  At   CD 

KitonBlue....  Kip   WGS 

Kiton  Green  Kip   WGS 

KitonRed  Kip   WGS 

Lake  Scarlet  FR,  FRR,  FRRR, 

GG,2R  Math   WGS 

Lake  Scarlet  G  R  I  I,  C  R  C  L, 

R  L,  2  R  L  Mz   WGS 

Lanafuchsine  S  B,  S  G,  6  B  Math   WGS 

Lanaglaucine  W  Mz   W  Ch 

Laundry  Blue  B,  1,  2,  3  Math  .  .WGS,  SS,  CT 

LazulineBlue  By   WGS 

Light  Green  S  F,  Bluish,  Yellow- 
ish B   WGS,SS 

Luzon  Black  At   WGS 

Madison  Blue  V  At....   CD 

Madras  Blue  RR  At   WGS 

Magdalia  Red  Mz,  Kip  ...  S  A 

Magenta  Math  . .  .  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Magenta  extra  large  crystals,  ex- 
tra yellow,  large  crystals,  small 

crystals,  double  refined  Mz  WG,SA,CT 

Magenta  large  crystals  B  Math  . . .  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Magenta  I  Kip  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Malachite  Green  A,  K,  Kip, 

Math  .  .WN,SA,CT 

Malachite  Green  B  B,  4  B  and 

crystals  Mz  WN,SA,CT 

Malachite  Green  G  B  WN,SA,CT 

Malachite  Green  la,  Superior  and 

No.  12  Mz  WN,SA,CT 

Malachite  Green  Powder  Mz  W  N,  S  A,  C  T 

Manchester  Brown  E  E,  PS  Math   C  T 


232 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Mandarine  G  extra,  GR  A   WGS 

Mandarine  Orange  G  extra  Mz   WGS 

Marine  Blue  B  I,  2  R  X,  R I  Mz  W  N,  S  A,  C  T 

Maroon  S  Mz,B.  .  . ..  WGS,SS 

Mekon  Yellow  G,  R  Kip   CD 

Meridian  Green  B  At   CD 

Meridian  Violet  51  At   CD 

Meridian  Yellow  OOO  At   CD 

Metanil  Red  3  B,  3  B  extra  By   WGS 

Metanil  Yellow  Mz,  A,  Bs, 

K,  Math, 

B   WGS 

Metaphenylene  Blue  B,  B  B  Math   WGS 

Methyl  Alkali  Blue  Mz,  K,  Kip, 

B  See  Alkali  Blue 

Methyl  Blue  Math   S  S,  C  T 

Methyl  Blue  for  Cotton  Mz  W  G  S,  SS,  C  A 

Methyl  Blue  for  Silk  Mz   S  S 

Methylene  Blue  B  Mz,  B . .  .  W  N,  S  A,  C  T 

Methylene  Blue  B  cone.,  B  B,  and 

BBconc  Mz  WN,SS,CT 

Methylene  Blue  B  B  extra  Mz  W  N,  S  S,  C  T 

Methylene  Blue  D,  D  B,  D  B  B  ex- 
tra, D  B  B  cone.,  D  B  B  extra 

cone  Mz  WN,SS,CT 

Methylene  Blue  G  Math  . . .  W  N,  S  S,  C  T 

Methylene  Blue  3  R,  5  R,  6  R,  DMz  W  N,  S  S,  C  T 

3RD5R  Mz  WN,SA,CT 

Methylene  Blue  Zinc  free,  pure  . .  .  Mz  W  N,  S  S,  C  T 

Methylene  Dark  Blue  3  B  N,  R  B 

Npat  Mz  WN,SS,CT 

Methylene  Gray  B,  B  F,  G,  N  D, 

NF,  0,R  Mz  WN,SS,CT 

Methylene  Green  B  Mz,  By . . . .  C  T 

Methylene  Green  G,  G  G,  O  extra 

Yellow  cone  Mz  WN,SS,CT 

Methylene  Heliotrope  O  Mz  W  N,  S  S,  C  T 

Methylene  Violet  B  N,  R  R  A, 

3  R  A  extra  Mz  W  N,  S  S,  CT 

Methyl  Eosine  A,  Kip .  . . W  N,  S  S,  C  T 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


233 


Methyl  Violet  2  B,  c,  p.  2  B  N  . . . .  Mz  WG,  S  A,  CT 

Methyl  Violet  BO  Math. . . .  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Methyl  Violet  3  B  D,  4  B  0, 

4B,5B,6B  Math....WG,SA,CT 

Methyl  Violet  6  B,  crystals  and 

extra  Kip,  B  . .  WG,  S  A,  CT 

Methyl  Violet  BSC  Math. .  ..WG,  SA,  CT 

Methyl  Violet  R,  2  R,  3  R,  4  R,5  R  Mz,  Math. . 

SW,  WG,SA,CT 

Methyl  VioletRO,RS  J  .  .Math. . . .  WG,  S  A,  CT 

Methyl  Violet  Superior  '.  Mz  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Methyl  Water  Blue  B  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Mikado  Brown  Mz,  Bs   CD 

Mikado  Gold  Yellow  2  G,  4  G,  6  G, 

8G  Mz,Bs....  CD 

Mikado  Orange  G,  R,  2  R,  3  R, 

4R,5R  Mz,Bs....  CD 

Mikado  Yellow  2  G,  4  G,  6  G  Mz,  Bs  . . . .  CD 

Milling  Blue  2  Rex  Mz  

W  G  S,  W  G  S  Ch 

Milling  Red  FFG,FR,G,R  Math   WGS 

Milling  Scarlet  4  R  cone,  4  R  O  .  .  Mz  W  A,  W  A  Ch 

Milling  Yellow  1 1,  0,0  0  Math   WGS 

Moline  At   WCh 

Mordant  Yellow  G,3R  B   WCh 

Nako  Black  O,  O  P,  D  B  Mz   Fur 

Nako Brown D,  P,PS,DD  Mz   Fur 

Nako  RedO  Mz   Fur 

Nako  Yellow  O  Mz   Fur 

Naphthalene  Acid  Black  S  By   WGS 

Naphthalene  Blue  B,  5  G,  D  L  Mz   WGS 

Naphthalene  Green  cone.  V  Mz   WGS 

Naphthalene  Pink  or  Scarlet  See  Magdalia  Red. 

Napthalene  Yellow  Mz,  Bs,  Math.  WGS 

Naphthazurine  Blue  O  Bs   WGS 

Naphthogen  Blue  2  R,  4  R  A   CDv 

Naphto  Rubine  By   WGS 

Naphthol  Black  B,  B  D  F  Math   Printing 

Naphthol  Black  B  D,  3  B,  4  B,  6  B, 
12  B  Math   WGS 


234 


THE  DYEING   AND  CLEANING 


Naphthol  Black  D  

Mz........ 

W  G  S 

.                        T!     V_I  kJ 

Naphthol  Black  P,  N  Y,  S  G,  4  R.  Math 

.  .                 V  V    V_J  Kj 

Nanhthol  Blue  2  B 

B 

W  G  S 

Nanhthol  Blue  G  R 

Math 

W  G  S 

Nanhthol  Blue  Black  A 

Math 

W  G  S 

NaDhthol  Green  B  0  0 

 Math  

W  G  S 

ftlciT»n^"  nnl  li'PCi'nrro 

....A  

WG  S 

NaDhthol  Red  0 

 Math  

WGS 

Naphthol  RedO  

....Mz  

WGS 

Naphthol  Red  S,  G  R  

.  . .  .PK  

WGS 

Naphthol  Yellow  

....Kip  

WGS 

Naphthol  YellowS  

 Mz,By,Klp, 

Math,B. 

WGS 

Naphthol  Yellow  SE  

....Mz  

SS,  WGS 

Naphthylamine  Black  4  B  K,  4  B 

N,6BN,  10B,ESN 

•••By  

W  A 

Naphthylamine  Black  6  B  D 

.  . .  .Math  

WGS 

Naphthylamine  Brown  

 B  

WGS 

Naphthylamine  Pink  

....Kip  

WGS 

Naphthylamine  Yellow  

....K  

WGS 

Naphthyl  Blue  

....K  

WGS 

Naphthyl  Blue  2  B..  

.  ..  .B  

CD 

Naphthyl  Blue  Black  (M  N  Y),  N, 

R,SB,S2B,S3B,FBB, 

F  B.Math 

WGS 

Naphthylene  Red  

•  By  

CD 

Navy  Blue,  BW,H  

....Kip  

WGS 

Navy  Blue  V  

....Mz  WGS,SS,CT 

Navy  Blue  BG,R  

. . .  B  

WGS 

Nerol  Black  B,BB,2G  new,  4  B, 

2BG,  4BG  

 A  

W  A 

Nerol  Blue  Black  

....A  

W  A 

Neutral  BlueR,3R  

....Mz  

WN,WGS 

Neutral  Violet  0  

.  ..  .Mz  

SA,WN 

Neutral  Wool  Black  B,G 

.  .  .  .Math  

WN,WGS 

New  Acid  Green  G  X,  3  B  X 

 By  

WGS 

New  BlueO  

. . .  .Mz  

SS,WGS 

NewCroceine  0  

....Mz  

WGS,SS 

 A  

WGS 

...B  

CD 

....A  

CD 

OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


235 


New  Fuchsine  Kip. . . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

New  Gray  By  WGS,CT 

New  Green  By  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

New  Indigo  Kip   CD 

New  Magenta  0  Mz.WN,  WG,SA,CT 

New  Metamine  Blue  M  Mz   C  T 

New  Methylene  Blue  B  B,  F,  G  G, 

N,  N  X,  N  F,  R,  3 R,  70221  . . .  .Math   C  T 

New  Patent  Blue  B,  4  B,  G  A  By   W  G  S 

New  Patent  Silk  Blue  By   SS 

New  Red  L  K   WGS 

New  Victoria  Blue  B  By  W  G  S,  C  T 

New  Yellow  B  WGS,CT 

Night  Blue  Klp,B....  WGS 

Nigrosine  Gray  Blue  1,  2,  3,  4  Mz   W  N,  S  S 

Nyanza  Black  B  A,  Mz   CD 

Oananthinine  Kip   WGS,SS 

Oil  Black,  Blue,  Brown,  Green, 

Orange,  Red,  Violet  Mz,  Math.  .  Varnish 

Old  Scarlet  By   WGS 

Opal  Blue  Mz,  Math. . 

WGS,SS,CT 

OramineBlueR  B   CD 

Orange  A,  I,  II,  III,  IV  Mz,  Kip., 

Math   WGS,SS 

Orange  E  N  L,  E  N  Z  extra,  2  G  .  .  Math   WGS 

Orange  G,  G  G,  G  G  crystals  Math   WGS 

OrangeGRX  K   WGS 

Orange  GT,RO  By   WGS 

Orange  M,MN,N  Kip   WGS 

Orange R  M  z,  Kip  , 

Math,  B..  WGS 

Orange  RR  Math   WGS,SS 

Orange  4  Mz,  Math .  .  WGS 

Orange  4  LL  Mz   WGS,SS 

Orchil  Crimson  (powder)  B   WGS 

Orchil  Substitute  G  pat  Mz   WGS 

OrseilleRedA  B   WGS 

Orseille  Substitute  N  extra  Math   WGS 

OrseillineBB  By   WGS 


236 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Orseilline  B,  R  A   WGS,SS 

OrthoBlack3B  A.   WGS 

Ortho  Cerise  B  A   WGS 

0rthoCyanineB,6G,R  A   WGS 

Oxamine  Black  B  R,  M  B,  M  D, 

MT  B   CD 

Oxamine  Black  B  H  B   C  D v 

Oxamine  Blue  4  B,  R  B   CD 

Oxamine  Blue  3  R,RX,  4  R  B   CD 

Oxamine  Brown  G,  G  R  B   CD 

Oxamine  Copper  Blue  R  R  B   CD 

Oxamine  Dark  Brown  G,R  B   CD 

Oxamine  Fast  Bordeaux  B   CD 

Oxamine  Fast  Red  F  B   CD 

Oxamine  Green  B  B   CD 

Oxamine  Maroon  B   CD 

Oxamine  Pure  Blue  A  B   CD 

Oxamine  Red  B,MT  B   CD 

Oxamine  Violet  B  B  R,  G  R,  G  R 

F,  M  T,  R  R  B   CD 

Oxblood8851  Bs   CD 

Oxy  Diamine  Black  A,AM,  A  T, 

B,BG,BM,BZ,BZS,CBS, 

D,N,NF,NR,SOOOO,N 

S  A,  T,R,RR,SOOO,  W, 

F  FC  extra,  F  F  G,  A  F  F,  J  E, 

JEI,JB,JW  Math   CD 

Oxy  Diamine  Blue  3  R,G,  3  G,  5  G  Math   CD 

Oxy  Diamine  Brown  R  M,  R  O . .  .  Math   C  D 

Oxy  Diamine  Orange  G,  R  Math   CD 

Oxy  Diamine  Violet  B,  G,  R  Math   CD 

Oxy  Diamine  Yellow  GG  Math   CD 

Oxy  Diaminogen  GD,EF,EN, 

EM,  FF,  FFG  Math   CD 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O  Mz   CD 

Palatine  Black  4  B,  M  M  B   WGS 

Palatine  Chrome  Black  S  B   WGSCh 

Palatine  Chrome  Blue  W  2  B,  2  B.B   WACh 

Palatine  Chrome  Bordeaux  B   W  G  S  Ch 

Pluto  Black  B,  G,  R,  A,  3  B,  C  R, 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


237 


L  cone,  T  G  extra  cone,  A  ex- 
tra, C  F  extra,  F  extra,  B  S  ex- 
tra, SS  extra  By   CD 

Pluto  Brown  R  By   CD 

Pluto  Milling  Black  B  By   CD 

Pluto  Orange  G  By   CD 

Ponceau  B  extra  Mz   W  G  S 

Ponceau  BO  extra,  BO,  BOG...  A   WGS 

Ponceau  Brilliant  4  R  Math   WGS 

Ponceau  G  Mz,  Math . .  WGS 

Ponceau  2  G,  G  R,  G  R  2,  G  R  C  L  Mz   WGS,SS 

Ponceau 4GB  A   WGS,SS 

Ponceau  HP  By   WGS 

Ponceau  J,  J  J  Math   WGS,SS 

PonceauR  Mz,  A,  B  .  .  WGS,SS 

Ponceau  2  R,  3  R,  2  R  C  L,  3  R 

CL  Mz   WGS,SS 

Ponceau  3  R  B,  4  R  B,  6  R  B,  10 

R  B,S  extra,  SS  extra  A   WGS,SS 

Ponceau  5  R,  6  R  Crystals,  YB...Mz   WGS,SS 

Primula  B,  R  Mz  W  G,  S  A,  C  T 

Prune  (powder)  Mz   W  Ch 

Prune  (pure)  Mz,  Math . .         W  Ch 

PureBlueBSJ  Kip  WGS,SS 

Pure  Blue  O  cone,  double  cone.  .  .Mz  WGS,SS,CT 

Purple  Blue  O  Mz  .  . . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Pyramine  Orange Y,3G  B   CD 

Pyronine  B,  G  Mz,  Bs .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Pyrotine  Orange  Bs   WGS 

Pyrotine  RRO  Bs   WGS 

Quinoline  Yellow  Mz,  A,  By, 

B   WGS,SS 

RedB  Math,B...  SW,CD 

Red  Violet  R  S,  4  R  S,  5  R  extra, 

5RS  B  WGS,SS,CT 

Red  Y,  Y B,  Y G,  Y 2 G  Mz   WGS,SS 

Regina  Violet,  alcohol  and  water 

soluble  A   WGS,SS 

Resorcine  Brown  A   WGS 

Resorcine  Yellow  A,  K   WGS 


238 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Rhodamine  B,  B  extra,  3  B,  G,  G 

extra  Mz,  Kip,  B.  WA,SA 

Rhodamine  3  G,  5  G,  6  G  Kip,  B  .  W  A,  S  A,  C  T 

Rhodamine  6  G,  6  G  D,  6  G  extra, 

6GD  extra  Mz  WA,SA,CT 

Rhodamine  4  G,  5  G  By  W  A,  S  A,  C  T 

Rhodamine  extra  B,0,R  Kip   WGS,  SS 

Rhodamine  S  Kip,  B   WGS,  SS 

Rhodinduline  Red  B  By   WGS,SS 

Rhodinduline  Red  G,  S  By   W  G  S,  S  S 

Rhodinduline  Blue  R,  G  S  extra .  .  By   C  T 

Rocelline  Kip,  Math .  W  G  S,  S  S 

RocellineN  Mz   WGS,SS 

Rosanthrine  Bordeaux  Kip   C  D  v 

Rosazeine  O  extra  B,  B  extra,  4  G, 

6  G,  6  G  extra,  6  G  D,  6  G  D 

extra  Mz   WA,SA,CT 

Rosazurine  B,  B  B,  G  Mz,  By   CD 

Rose  Bengal  Math,  B .  .  .  W  A,  S  A 

Rose  Bengal  AT  A,  B   WA,SA 

Rose  Bengal  B,  3  B  cone,  G  Mz   WA,SA 

Rose  Bengal  N  Math   W  A,  S  A 

Rubin  S  A   SA,CT 

Ruffigallol  B   WCh 

Safranine  A  N  extra  Mz,Math. .  SA,CT 

Safranine  ANF  Mz   SA,CT 

Safranine  B  cone  Mz   CT 

Safranine  BS  Math   SA,CT 

Safranine  FF  extra,  No.  0  By   SA,CT 

Safranine  G  extra  A,  Math ...  S  A,  C  T 

Safranine  G  G  F,  G  G  P  Math   SA,CT 

SafranineGGS  Mz,Math..  SA,CT 

Safranine  MN,  NY  B   SA,CT 

Safranine  O,  P  K  Math   S  A,  C  T 

Safranine  Purple  B   SA,CT 

Safranine R  S,  Resinate  Math   S  A,  CT 

Safranine  S,  150  T  Math   S  A,  C  T 

Safrosine  B   SA.CT 

Salacine Black D,  P,  P T  K   WG  SCh 

Salacine  Blue  B  K   W  G  S  Ch 


OF  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


239 


Salacine Brown B,R,RC  K   WGSCh 

Salacine  Yellow  G,  2  G,  D  K   WGSCh 

Salacine  Red  K   CD 

Scarlet  B  extra  Mz   WGS,SS 

Scarlet  E  C,  F  R,  F  R  R,  F  R  R  R 

for  cotton  Math   CAI 

Scarlet  G,GG,GL,GR  11,  G  V  .Mz   WGS,SS 

Scarlet  BR  A   WGS,SS 

Scarlet  GRCL  Mz   WGS 

ScarletR  Mz, By.  .  .  .  WGS,SS 

Scarlet RBC  Mz,Math. .  WGS,SS 

Scarlet  R  L,  2  R  Mz,  Kip  . . .  W  G  S,  S  S 

Scarlet2RCL,3RCL  Mz   WGS 

Scarlet  R  R  L,  R  V  L,  3  R,  3  R  L, 

4  R,  5  R,  6  R  crystals  Mz   W  G  S,  S  S 

ScarletS  Math   WGS,SS 

Silk  Blue  Mz   SS 

Silk  Gray  O  Mz   SA 

Silklnduline  Mz   S  S,  C  T 

Solamine  Blue  B,  R,  F  F  A   CD 

Solid  Blue  B  D,  B  R  D,  2  B  D, 

3RD,6G  Math   WGS 

Solid  Blue  R,  3  R  Math   WGS 

Solid  Brown  O  yellowish  L,  N  T  .  .  Mz   W  G  S,  S  S 

Solid  Green  J  J  0,  O  Kip. . .  W  G  S,  S  S,  C  T 

Solid  Violet  Kip   WCh 

Soluble  Blue  Mz,  Bs,  Math.         S  S 

SorbinRedG,BB  B   WGS 

Soudan  Brown  A   CD 

Substantive  Pink  CR  B   CD 

Sulf  amine  Brown  A,  B,  D  93  Bs   W  Ch 

Sulphin  B   CD 

Sulpho  Black  G,  R  By   WGS 

Sulpho  Cyanine,  G,  3  R,  5  R,  G  R .  By  W  G  S,  W  Ch 

Sulpho  Cyanine  Black  B,2B  By   WGS 

Sulphon  Acid  Blue  B,  R,  3  R  ex- 
tra, G  By   WGS 

Sulphon  Azurine  D  Mz,By. ...  WA,CD 

Sulphon  Orange  G  By   WGS 

Sulphon  Yellow  G,  5  G,R  By   WGS 


240 


THE  DYEING  AND  CLEANING 


Sulphur  Black  T,  T  extra,  A,  A  W 

extra,  2 B extra, T B extra,  4B.A   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Black  L,  N,  S  T  Mz   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Blue  L  extra  A   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Bronze  Mz   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Brown  G,  2  G  A   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Brown  TBG,TBM....Mz   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Corinth  B  Mz   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Cutch  R  A   Sulphur 

Sulphur  Indigo  B  A   Sulphur 

'Sulphur  Yellow  R  extra  A   Sulphur 

Sun  Yellow  Mz,  A,  By,  Kip  . .  .C  D 

Tabora  Black  R  extra  Mz,  A   CD 

Tannin  Brown  B  Math   C  T 

Tannin  Heliotrope  Math   C  T 

Tannin  Orange  R,  Paste  and  Powd .  Math   C  T 

Tartrazine  Mz,  Kip,  B.  W  G  S 

Thiazine  Brown  GR  B   CD 

ThiazineRedG,R  B   CD 

Thiazol  Yellow  3  G,  G  L  By,  A   SA,CT 

Thio  Brown  2  B,  R  Bs   CD 

Thio  Brown  R,  Paste  and  Powder. Math   W  G  S,  S  S 

Thio  Flavine  S  Math ......  CD 

ThioFlavineT  Math   CT 

Thionine  Blue  GO,0,00,00  O.Mz  W  N,  S  A,  CT 

Thio  Orange  G  Bs   WGS 

Thio  Ruby  Bs   WGS 

Thio  Yellow  G,  R  M,  R  Bs   CD 

Tobacco  Brown  G,  R  Math   CT 

Tolamine  Green,  Violet  Kip   CD 

Toledo  Blue  O  Bs   CD 

Toluidine  Blue  O  A,  B   CD 

Toluylene  Orange  Mz   CD 

Toluylene  Orange  G,R,RR  A   CD 

Violamine  B,  3  B,  G,  R,  A  2  R, 

BE, RGE, RBE...  Mz   WGS,SS 

Violet  5  B,  6  B  By   CT 

Violet 5 R-.  By  . . . .  WG  S,  S S,  CT 

Violet4RN  Kip. . .  .WGS,SS,CT 

Walnut  Brown  A,  B  Math   C  T 


OP  TEXTILE  FABRICS. 


241 


Water  Blue  B,BS,R,BB  Math   SS,CT 

Water  Blue  R,  R  C,  2  R,  A  D  R, 

4 R  W,  5  R  W,  L  A. .  ...S  S,  W G  S,  C  A  L 

Water  Blue  0  0  K   SS.CT 

Water  Rose  B  Kip   W  G  S,  S  A 

Water  Soluble  Eosine  Kip   WGS,  S  A 

Wood  Violets  B   WGS,SS 

Wool  Black  A,  B   WGS 

Wool  Black  B,  4  B,  4  B  F,  6  B, 

6BW,GR  A   WGS 

Wool  Black  D  G,  D  N  K   WGS 

Wool  Black  WC  At   WGS 

Wool  Blue  B,  2  B,  R,  5  B  A   WGS 

Wool  Blue  FS  Mz   WN 

Wool  Blue  K  B   WGS 

Wool  Blue  N,  R  extra,  5  R,  B  ex- 
tra, SR  extra  By   WGS 

Wool  Blue  S  B   WGS 

Wool  Fast  Blue  B  L,  G  L  By   W  A 

Wool  Gray  Bs   WGS 

Wool  Gray  B,  B  double,  G,  R  Kip   WGS 

Wool  Green  B,  B  S  By,  Kip  . . .  WGS 

Wool  Green  S  Kip,  B  . . .  .  WGS 

WoolJet  Black  2  B,  3  B  A   WGS 

Wool  Red  B  Math   WGS 

Wool  Red  extra  K   WGS 

Wool  Red  R,G  B   WGS 

Wool  Violet  R  K   WA 

Wool  Yellow  B   WGS 

Xanthine  Mz,  Kip  . . .  SS 

Yellow  AT  Math   WGS 

YellowT  Kip...   .  .  .  WGS,SS 

Yellow  W  By:   WGS,SS 

Yellow  WR  Kip   CD 

Zambesi  Black  D  A   CD 

Zambesi  Blue  B,  B  X,  R  A   CD 

Zambesi  Brown  G2G  A   CD 

Zambesi  Gray  B  A   CD 

Zambesi  Indigo  Blue  R  A   CD 

Zambesi  Pure  Blue  4B  A   CD 

16 


INDEX 


Acetate  of  alumina,  84 

of  iron,  23,  84 
Acid,  acetic,  28,  30,  135 

alizarines;  see  Afterchromed  colors 

dyeing  colors,  26 

dyes;  see  Sour  dyes,  36 

lactic,  136 

muriatic,  30-136 

nitric,  133 

oxalic,  28,  135 

sulphuric,  23-28,  29-134 

care  in  handling,  29,  134 

sulphurous,  94,  181 

to  concentrate,  7 

to  treat  stains  from,  135 
Acids,  effect  of,  upon  colored  goods,  136-137 
Aconite,  preserved  juices  from,  14 
Adjective  colors,  22 
Afterchromed  colors,  24,  37,  54 

treatment  of  colors,  51;  see  Saddening 
Alcohol,  7 

per  cent  of,  by  volume  and  weight,  17 

specific  gravity  of ,  15 
Alcoholometer,  17 
Alizarine  chromate  colors,  61 
Alkali,  7,  47 

action  of,  upon  cotton,  31 
of,  upon  wool,  31 

colors,  35-43 

effect  of,  upon  colors,  43-51 

violet,  44 
Alum,  23 
Ammonia,  28 

action  of,  upon  white  cotton,  30 
of,  upon  wool,  30 

cleaning  with,  30 

household,  27,  133,  134 
Ammonium  acetate,  58 

chromate,  58 
Apples,  to  express  the  juice  from,  13 

243 


244 


INDEX. 


Belladonna,  preserved  juice  of,  14 
Benzine  solutions  for  dyeing,  148-150 
Benzo-azurine  and  benzo-purpurine,  53 
Bichromate  of  potash,  22,  27,  58 
Bilge  water  in  boats,  to  purify,  123 
Black,  cold,  43;  see  Speck  dye 

cotton,  to  color,  80-81 

copperas,  66,  73 

composition  of,  33-42 

for  silk,  140 

for  wool,  50 
Bleaching  liquor,  care  in  using,  87,  89, 107 
to  prepare,  87 

powder,  35,  87 
Blood-stains  to  detect  and  remove,  89 
Blue,  dark,  for  cotton,  51,  53,  77,  80 

for  wool,  49,  53,  57,  73,  78,  82 

cotton,  to  color,  75 

indigo,  for  yarn,  78 

light,  for  wool,  55,73 

medium,  73 

Prussian,  77-80 

to  shade,  34 
Bluing,  123-124 
Bluestone,  51 

Boiling  in  dyeing,  when  to  be  avoided,  27 

under,  51 
Bone,  to  dye;  see  Ivory 
Brown,  catechu,  75 

composition  of,  34 

dark  olive,  55 

light,  55-56 

medium,  for  wool,  72,  74,  83 

to  shade,  34 

union  dyed,  40 
Buff  color,  53,  56,  76 
Buttons,  when  to  remove  in  re-dyeing,  32 

Calico,  to  iron,  124 
Camphor,  to  powder,  12 
Cane-staining,  194 
Carbon  disulphide,  153 

tetrachloride,  155 
Carbonizing,  28,  70,  71 
Carpet  rags,  to  dye,  46 
Carpets,  to  dye,  185 

to  sweep,  109 
Catechu,  23,  75,  191 
Caustic  potash,  31,  161 

soda,  31,  161,  163 


INDEX. 


245 


Cellulose,  120;  see  Cotton  and  wood  fibre 
Chamois  skin,  to  cleanse  and  soften,  110 
Chlorine;  see  Bleaching-powder 
Chloroform,  safety  in  using,  153 
Cistern  water,  to  purify,  123 

Cleansing  compound  for  silk  and  woollen,  173,  176 
Clothes,  colored  cotton,  hints  in  washing,  130 

to  fold  from  the  line,  124 

to  iron,  124 
Colchicum,  preserved  juices  of,  14 
Colors  sensitive  to  acids,  137 
Concentration,  7 
Copperas,  51,  52 
Cotton,  colored,  to  treat,  129 

goods,  white,  to  treat,  120, 174 

in  linen  goods,  to  detect,  126 

oxidation  effects  on,  120 

raw,  51 

to  detect  and  determine,  31 

to  prepare  for  magenta,  47 
Crape,  black  silk,  to  renovate,  114 

china-crape  scarf,  to  wash,  114 
Crayon,  colored  school,  to  make,  185 
Crossdyeing,  37,  68 
Crystallization,  7 

a  means  of  separating  and  purifying,  7 
Cutch;  see  Catechu 
Cutchine;  see  Catechu 

Dealers  in  dye  wares,  44,  45 
Decant,  3 
Decantation,  8 
Decoction,  5 

Detergent  liquids,  90,  176 
Developing  colors,  24 
Direct  cotton  dyes,  50 

dyeing  colors,  26 
Distillation,  10 

as  a  means  of  separating  and  purifying,  10,  11 
Domestic  finish,  156 
Drab  color,  39,  52,  63,  75 
Dress  goods,  46 

Dresses,  colored  woollen,  to  clean,  106 

cotton,  to  clean,  132 
Dry  cleaning,  153 
Dye  bath,  additions  to,  24,  27 

kettles,  32,  33 
Dyeing  experiments  with  nature's  substances,  67 

instructions,  24,  27,  85 

the  art  defined,  20 


246 


INDEX. 


Eau  de  Javelle,  87;  see  Javelle  water 
Emery,  to  get  the  specific  gravity  of,  etc.,  16 
Equitable  heat  for  liquids,  9 
Essential  oil,  to  obtain,  14 
Evenness,  25,  27 
Exhausting  the  bath,  27,  41 

Faded,  32 

Fastness  of  colors,  37,  42,  46,  50,  51 

Feathers,  directions  for  cleaning  and  dyeing,  177 

list  of  acid  dyes  for,  178,  179 

to  dye  with  acid  colors,  178 
with  basic  colors,  178 
Filling  up,  42,  65,  70 
Filtrate,  3 

Flannels;  see  Underwear 
red,  to  wash,  97 
to  iron,  107 
to  wash,  96 

white,  to  prevent  yellowing,  97 
Foxglove,  preserved  juice  of,  14 
Fractional  condensing,  11 
Frock,  to  iron,  124 
Fugitive  colors,  98 
Fusible  metals,  to  powder,  12 
Fustic,  23,  63,  66,  81,  142 

Gall,  ox,  101,  110,  117 

Gambier;  see  Catechu 

Gasoline,  solutions  for  dyeing,  149,  150 

Gingham  articles,  to  wash,  132 

Glass,  to  powder,  13 

Glauber  salt,  24,  25,  41,  46 

Gloss  finish,  156 

Gloves,  kid,  to  protect  from  perspiration,  143 
to  clean,  143,  144,  146,  147 
to  dye,  148 
black,  148 

without  wetting,  148 
to  prevent  stiffness  of,  149 
to  remove  stains  from,  146 
Gold,  to  powder,  13 

specific  gravity  of,  15 
Granulation,  11 

Grapes,  to  express  the  juice  of,  13 
Gray  color,  composition  of,  34 

for  woollens,  81 
Green,  bright,  69 

to  shade  and  darken,  34 

to  color,  41 


INDEX. 


247 


Gum  tragacanth,  112,  115 
water,  104 

Handkerchiefs,  to  bleach,  88 
Hard  water,  119 
Hemlock,  preserved  juice  of,  14 
Hemmed  edges,  when  to  let  out,  32 
Hints  to  success  in  redyeing,  85 
Hose;  see  Stockings 
Hydrogen  peroxide,  119,  180 
Hydrometer,  see  Specific  gravity 
Baume,  19 

how  poised  and  graduated,  19 
Tralles,  17-19 

Indicators,  showing  if  solutions  are  acid  or  alkaline,  137 
Indigo  blue,  78 

zinc-powder  vat,  79 
Infusion,  3 

when  preferable  to  decoction,  6 

see  Decoction 
Ink,  magenta,  48 
Iron  buff,  76 

Ivory,  aniline  dyes  for,  198 
artificial,  202 
etching- varnish  for,  201 
fluid  for  marking,  200 
to  bleach,  199 
to  clean,  202 
to  dye,  196,  199 

black,  196,  197 

blue,  198 

red,  197 

when  softened,  199 

etch,  201 

gild,  201 

harden,  199 

polish,  200 

render  flexible,  198 

silver,  201 
spots,  to  remove  from,  196 
yellowed,  to  whiten,  199 

Javelle  water,  87 

Khaki  color;  see  Iron  buff 

Lace,  silk,  or  thread,  to  clean,  126 

to  iron,  125 
Lack  of  attention,  32 


248 


INDEX. 


Lavender,  34,  75;  see  Purple 
Laying  the  nap,  98 
Leaching,  164 
Leather-bleaching,  180 

acid  method,  182 

oxidation  method,  180 

reduction  method,  181 

toppling  method,  182 
Lightning  eradicator,  176 
Lime  water,  78 
Linen;  see  Cotton  goods 

action  of  sulphuric  acid  on,  134 
to  dye,  24 

yellow,  to  bleach,  126 
Logwood,  23,  66,  67 

the  color  changed  by  acids,  135 

Maceration,  14 
Magenta,  47 

(acid  magenta),  49 

ink,  48 

liquor,  48 
Maroon  color,  34,  42 
Mildew,  95;  see  Salt  as  a  preventive  of 
Mordant  colors,  58-60 

effect  of,  in  redyeing,  159 

for  cotton,  22 

weighting  silk,  23 
wool,  24,  37 

to  detect,  159,  160 
Mordanted  wool  colors,  71 
Mould,  95 

Mulberries,  to  express  the  juice,  13 
Muslin,  colored,  to  treat,  129,  130 

Nap,  to  restore  and  lay,  105 
Napkins,  to  bleach,  88 

Narcotic  plants,  to  preserve  the  juice  of,  13 
Nicholson  blue,  43 
Nitrate  of  iron,  80 

Oil  of  vitriol;  see  Acid,  sulphuric 

Oil-soluble  colors,  150 

Olive  color,  41,  73,  77 

One-dip  colors;  see  Acid  alizarines 

see  Afterchromes 

see  Direct-dyeing  colors 

see  Metachromes 

see  Monochromes 

see  Sour  dyes 


INDEX. 


249 


One-dip  colors;  see  Saddened  colors 

see  Union  dyes 
Orange  color,  composition  of,  34,  48 

to  dye,  48 

to  shade,  34 

very  fast,  75 
Oranges,  to  express  the  juice  of,  13 
Overchromed  colors;  see  Afterchromed  colors 
Oxalic  acid;  see  Acid,  oxalic 

Package  dye,  62 

Paint,  to  remove  from  clothes,  103 

Peaches,  to  express  the  juice  of,  13 

Permanganate  of  potash,  123 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen;  see  Hydrogen  peroxide 

Perspiration-stains,  95,  103 

Pique,  to  renovate,  129 

Pitch,  to  remove,  92 

Poling,  64 

see  Instructions  for  dyeing 

see  Saddened  colors 
Porphyrization,  12 
Potassium  bichromate,  22,  24,  27 
Potato  pulp  as  a  cleanser,  112 
Precipitation,  2 
Preparation;  see  Mordant 

medium,  71 

light,  71 

regular,  71 
Press  finish,  to  make  permanent,  158 

plates,  105 
Pressing,  157; 
Proof  spirit,  18,  177 
Pulverization,  12 
Purple,  75;  see  Lavender 

composition  of,  34 


Quercitron,  82 

Red  color,  39,  47,  53,  57,  74 

Redyeing,  69,  70 

Resist  dyeing,  69,  70 

Ribbons,  silk  or  satin,  to  clean,  139 

Ring,  to  prevent,  when  using  solvents  on  grease-spots,  91,  92 

Rinsing,  121,  122,  154 

Ripping  garments  before  redyeing,  32 

Rose  color,  48,  49 

Rosin,  to  remove,  92  ' 


250 


INDEX. 


Saddened  colors,  62,  63,  65,  66 
Saddening,  51 
Sage  color,  39 

Salt  as  a  preventive  of  mildew,  95 

in  soap -making,  162 

to  brighten  colors,  110 

to  fasten  colors  on  prints,  51 
Sampling,  43 
Sand  bath,  10-11 
Satin  ribbons,  etc.,  to  clean,  139 
Scarlet  color,  34,  48 

Scorched  linen  or  cotton,  to  remedy,  125 
Scouring  liquid  for  silk,  117 
Shading,  57 

Shawls,  colored,  to  wash,  115 

to  clean,  97 
Shirts,  to  iron,  124 
Shot,  12 

Shrinking,  32,  33 

to  prevent,  107,  154,  157 

Side  tub,  39 

Silk,  colored,  to  prepare,  for  cleansing  and  re-dyeing,  138 
colors  for,  46 
crape,  to  renovate,  114 

handkerchiefs,  to  cleanse  and  sulphur,  113,  119 

old,  to  be  cleaned  and  redyed,  139 

raw,  to  cleanse,  22 

renovator  for  black,  115 

ribbons,  to  wash,  112,  115,  139 

stockings,  102 

tar,  grease,  and  oil,  to  remove  from,  119,  173 
to  dye  black,  140 

crimson,  142 

drab  or  gray,  142 

red,  141,  142 

violet,  141 
to  iron,  125 

to  remove  wax  from,  93 
to  wash,  111,  115,  118 
unions,  to  cleanse,  112 
washing-soap  for,  116 
Siphon,  8,  9 

Slate  color,  34,  40,  54,  55,  59,  73 

blue,  54 
Soap,  161 

brown  Windsor,  168 

carbolic,  170 

clear  boiling  of,  162 

cocoanut,  163 

cold  process,  171;  see  Soap-filled 


INDEX. 


Soap,  fats  and  oils  for,  165 
filled,  163 
floating,  167 
glycerine,  168,  170 
hard,  169 

lye,  to  causticize,  161 
making,  161 

medicated,  caution  in  using,  169 

mercurial,  170 

musk,  171 

sand, 170 

saponification,  162 

separating  out,  162,  172 

soft,  161,  164 

sulphur,  169 

to  cut  into  bars,  166 

to  "  crutch  "  and  perfume,  166 

to  refine  for  toilet  use,  165 

toilet,  171 

washing,  172 

white  Windsor,  168 
Soap  wort,  to  use,  183 
Sodium  bisulphate,  26 

Soiled  garments,  colored  blue  without  cleansing,  44 
Solids,  to  hasten  the  solution  of,  1,  2 
Solution,  acid,  1 
alkaline,  1 
alcoholic,  1 
aqueous,  1 
defined,  1 
neutralize,  1 
saturated,  1 
to  purify,  8 
Solvents,  volatile,  precautions  in  using,  92 
Sour  dyes,  36,  37,  46 

to  prepare  the  bath  for,  46 
their  effect  upon  cotton,  37 
milk,  see  acid,  lactic 
Specific  gravity,  15 

from  degrees  Baume,  20 
influence  of  temperature  on,  17 
of  silver,  15 

to  convert  to  degrees  Baume,  20 
Spirit  rectified,  14 

Spots,  100,  101,  137,  155,  174,  175,  204 
grease,  solvents  for,  91,  177 
oil,  to  remove,  91 
removers,  28 

care  in  using,  30 
to  remove  from  black  cloth,  175 


252 


INDEX. 


Stains,  acid,  from  clothing,  133 

bleaching-powder  for,  87 

fruit  and  vegetable,  86,  89 

grease,  from  paper,  182 

nitric  acid,  133 

perspiration,  95 

sulphuric  acid,  134 

to  remove,  30 
Standing  bath,  51,  52 
Starch,  Chinaman's,  127 

colored,  to  make,  186 

gloss,  128 

tablets,  129 

laundry,  155 
Stockings,  to  clean,  102 

silk,  to  clean,  113 
Strippines,  34 

Substantive  colors,  22,  41,  50 
Sudsing  water,  121 
Suggestions  in  applying  reagents,  138 
Sulphur  colors,  38,  50,  68 

for  wood,  187 
Sulphuric  acid;  see  Acid,  sulphuric 
Sulphuring,  138 

Table  cloths,  to  bleach,  88 

salt,  uses  of,  27,  41,  50,  51 

tops,  to  remove  white  stains  from  the  varnish,  183 
Taffeta,  black,  to  wash,  116 
Tan  color,  34,  58 

Tar,  roofing,  to  remove  from  hands  and  clothing,  110 

to  remove,  92 
Tarring  in  dyewares,  to  avoid,  25,  47 
Tartar  emetic,  23 
Temperatures  for  dyeing,  26 
Tendering  by  boiling,  30 
Tetrapole,  101,  104,  110,  132 
Textiles,  liquids  to  remove  grease  from,  173 
Tinctures,  dose  of,  14 

substitutes  for,  14 

the  best  part  of  the  plant  for,  14 
Topchromes;  see  Afterchromes 

Underwear,  107,  108;  see  Flannels  and  Woollens 
Union  dyeing,  27,  36,  38,  42 

to  prepare  the  bath  for,  38 
dyes,  38 

to  shade,  34 
dyewares,  to  select,  44 
goods,  38 


INDEX. 


253 


Vat;  see  Indigo 
Vegetable  color,  67,  138 

juices  by  expression,  13 
Veils,  black  lace,  to  clean,  109 
Veneers;  see  Wood  dyeing 
Vinegar;  see  Acid,  acetic 
Violet  color,  49 

Wash  leather;  see  Chamois  skin 
Washing  colored  clothes,  hints  for,  130 
Water  bath,  9,  11 

correction,  122 
Wax,  to  remove  from  garments,  93 
Weight  of  body  from  the  specific  gravity,  16 
Wetting  out,  26 
Wine  color,  34,  57 
Wood-dyeing,  186 

blue  dye  for,  188,  189 

bright  red  for,  188, 189 
yellow  for  188,  189 

fibre,  186 

green  dye  for,  189 

orange  dye  for,  188 

to  dye  black,  187 
Wood-staining,  190 
black,  191 
brown,  191 

mahogany,  191,  192,  194,  195 
rosewood  imitation,  193 
Wool  carpets,  to  clean,  100 
to  dye,  185 
clips  (paint  and  tar),  104 
Woollen,  43 

cloths,  to  clean,  99,  108 

to  restore  the  lustre,  104 
colored,  to  wash,  106 
cloth  garments,  to  press,  157 
cloth,  soiled  and  stained,  to  treat,  98 
cloth,  to  prevent  shrinking,  98,  102 
fleece,  to  wash,  21,  22 
stockings  and  hose,  to  clean,  102 
suit,  to  clean,  99 

done  to  look  well,  158 
Woollens,  to  wash,  108 

to  whiten,  93 
Worsted,  46 

Yarn,  46,  78 

Yellow  color.  40,.  53,  179,  1.89   ;         ;     ;  ; 

chrysophei^h^  for,  53  \  *\  >  \*  .;  ;  ; 
Yellowed  woojleo£,  -to  treat,  93' 


I        t    .  I  (  c 


Short-title  Catalogue 


OF  THE 

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OF 

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*  McKay  and  Larsen's  Principles  and  Practice  of  Butter-making  8vo,  1  50 

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4 


Mandel's  Handbook  for  Bio-chemical  Laboratory  12mo,  $1  50 

*  Martin's  Laboratory  Guide  to  Qualitative  Analysis  with  the  Blowpipe 

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5 


Washington's  Manual  of  the  Chemical  Analysis  of  Rocks  8vo,  $2  00 

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Students  ,  12mo,  1  50 

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CIVIL  ENGINEERING. 

BRIDGES  AND  ROOFS.    HYDRAULICS.    MATERIALS  OF  ENGINEER- 
ING.   RAILWAY  ENGINEERING. 


Baker's  Engineers'  Surveying  Instruments                                            12mo,  3  00 

Bixby's  Graphical  Computing  Table  Paper  19jX24|  inches.  25 

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tary Surveying  8vo,  3  00 

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*  Burr's  Ancient  and  Modern  Engineering  and  the  Isthmian  Canal  8vo,  3  50 

Comstock's  Field  Astronomy  for  Engineers  8vo,  2  50 

*  Corthell's  Allowable  Pressure  on  Deep  Foundations  12mo,  1  25 

Crandall's  Text-book  on  Geodesy  and  Least  Squares  8vo,  3  00 

Davis's  Elevation  and  Stadia  Tables  8vo,  1  00 

Elliott's  Engineering  for  Land  Drainage  12mo,  1  50 

Practical  Farm  Drainage.     (Second  Edition  Rewritten.)  12mo,  1  50 

*  Fiebeger's  Treatise  on  Civil  Engineering  8vo,  5  00 

Flemer's  Photographic  Methods  and  Instruments  8vo,  5  00 

Folwell's  Sewerage.    (Designing  and  Maintenance.)  ,  .  .8vo,  3  00 

Freitag's  Architectural  Engineering  8vo,  3  50 

Goodhue's  Municipal  Improvements  12mo,  1  50 

*  Hauch  and  Rice's  Tables  of  Quantities  for  Preliminary  Estimates. .  .  12mo,  1  25 

Hayford's  Text-book  of  Geodetic  Astronomy  8vo,  3  00 

Hering's  Ready  Reference  Tables  (Conversion  Factors)....  16mo,  mor.  2  50 

Hosmer's  Azimuth  16mo,  mor.  1  00 

Howe'  Retaining  Walls  for  Earth  12mo,  1  25 

*  Ives's  Adjustments  of  the  Engineer's  Transit  and  Level  16mo,  bds.  25 

Johnson's  (J.  B.)  Theory  and  Practice  of  Surveying                   Large  12mo,  4  00 

Johnson's  (L.  J.)  Statics  by  Algebraic  and  Graphic  Methods                  .8vo,  2  00 

Kinnicutt,  Winslow  and  Pratt's  Purification  of  Sewage.     (In  Preparation). 

*  Mahan's  Descriptive  Geometry  8vo,  1  50 

Merriman's  Elements  of  Precise  Surveying  and  Geodesy  8vo,  2  50 

Merriman  and  Brooks's  Handbook  for  Surveyors  16mo,  mor.  2  00 

Nugent's  Plane  Surveying  8vo,  3  50 

Ogden's  Sewer  Construction  8vo,  3  00 

Sewer  Design  12mo,  2  00 

Parsons's  Disposal  of  Municipal  Refuse  8vo,  2  00 

Patton's  Treatise  on  Civil  Engineering  8vo,  half  leather,  7  50 

Reed's  Topographical  Drawing  and  Sketching  4to,  5  00 

Rideal's  Sewage  and  the  Bacterial  Purification  of  Sewage  8vo,  4  00 

Riemer's  Shaft-sinking  under  Difficult  Conditions.  (Corning  and  Peele.).8vo,  3  00 

Siebert  and  Biggin's  Modern  Stone-cutting  and  Masonry  8vo,  1  50 

Smith's  Manual  of  Topographical  Drawing.     (McMillan.)  8vo,  2  50 

Soper's  Air  and  Ventilation  of  Subways  12mo,  2  50 

*  Tracy's  Exercises  in  Surveying  12mo,  mor.  1  00 

Tracy's  Plane  Surveying  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

*  Trautwine's  Civil  Engineer's  Pocket-book  16mo,  mor.  5  00 

Venable's  Garbage  Crematories  in  America  8vo,  2  00 

Methods  and  Devices  for  Bacterial  Treatment  of  Sewage  8vo,  3  00 

6 


Wait's  Engineering  and  Architectural  Jurisprudence  8vo,  $6  00 

Sheep,  6  50 

Law  of  Contracts  8vo,  3  00 

Law  of  Operations  Preliminary  to  Construction  in  Engineering  and 

Architecture  8vo,  5  00 

Sheep,  5  50 

Warren's  Stereotomy — Problems  in  Stone-cutting  8vo,  2  50 

*  Waterbury's  Vest- Pocket  Hand-book  of  Mathematics  for  Engineers. 

21 X  5|  inches,  mor.  1  00 
Webb's  Problem's  in  the  Use  and  Adjustment  of  Engineering  Instruments. 

16mo,  mor.  1  25 

Wilson's  Topographic  Surveying  8vo,  3  50 


BRIDGES  AND  ROOFS. 


Boiler's  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Construction  of  Iron  Highway  Bridges.. 8 vo,  2  00 

*  Thames  River  Bridge  Oblong  paper,  5  00 

Burr  and  Falk's  Design  and  Construction  of  Metallic  Bridges  8vo,  5  00 

Influence  Lines  for  Bridge  and  Roof  Computations  8vo,  3  00 

Du  Bois's  Mechanics  of  Engineering.    Vol.  II  Small  4to,  10  00 

Foster's  Treatise  on  Wooden  Trestle  Bridges  4to,  5  00 

Fowler's  Ordinary  Foundations  8vo,  3  50 

Greene's  Arches  in  Wood,  Iron,  and  Stone  8vo,  2  50 

Bridge  Trusses  8vo,  2  50 

Roof  Trusses  8vo,  1  25 

Grimm's  Secondary  Stresses  in  Bridge  Trusses  8vo,  2  50 

Heller's  Stresses  in  Structures  and  the  Accompanying  Deformations..  .  .8vo,  3  00 

Howe's  Design  of  Simple  Roof-trusses  m  Wood  and  Steel  8vo.  2  00 

Symmetrical  Masonry  Arches  8vo,  2  50 

Treatise  on  Arches  8vo,  4  00 

Johnson,  Bryan  and  Turneaure's  Theory  and  Practice  in  the  Designing  of 

Modern  Framed  Structures  Small  4to,  10  00 

Merriman  and  Jacoby's  Text-book  on  Roofs  and  Bridges: 

Part  I.     Stresses  in  Simple  Trusses  8vo,  2  50 

Part  II.    Graphic  Statics  8vo,  2  50 

Part  III.    Bridge  Design  8vo,  2  50 

Part  IV.  Higher  Structures  8vo,  2  50 

Morison's  Memphis  Bridge  Oblong  4to,  10  00 

Sondericker's  Graphic  Statics,  with  Applications  to  Trusses,  Beams,  and 

Arches  8vo,  2  00 

Waddell's  De  Pontibus,  Pocket-book  for  Bridge  Engineers  16mo,  mor.  2  00 

*  Specifications  for  Steel  Bridges  12mo,  50 

Waddell  and  Harringtoon's  Bridge  Engineering.     (In  Preparation.) 

Wright's  Designing  of  Draw-spans.    Two  parts  in  one  volume  8vo,  3  50 


HYDRAULICS. 


Barnes's  Ice  Formation  8vo,  3  00 

Bazin's  Experiments  upon  the  Contraction  of  the  Liquid  Vein  Issuing  from 

an  Orifice.     (Trau twine.)  8vo,  2  00 

Bovey's  Treatise  on  Hydraulics  8vo,  5  00 

Church's  Diagrams  of  Mean  Velocity  of  Water  in  Open  Channels. 

Oblong  4to,  paper,  1  50 

Hydraulic  Motors  8vo,  2  00 

Coffin's  Graphical  Solution  of  Hydraulic  Problems  16mo,  mor.  2  50 

Flather's  Dynamometers,  and  the  Measurement  of  Power  12mo,  3  00 

Folwell's  Water-supply  Engineering  8vo,  4  00 

Frizell's  Water-power  8vo,  5  00 

Fuertes's  Water  and  Public  Health  12mo,  1  50 

Water-filtration  Works  12mo,  2  50 

Ganguillet  and  Kutter's  General  Formula  for  the  Uniform  Flow  of  Water  in 

Rivers  and  Other  Channels.    (Hering  and  Trautwine.)  8vo,  4  00 

7 


Hazen's  Clean  Water  and  How  to  Get  It  Large  12mo,  $1  50 

Filtration  of  Public  Water-supplies  8vo,  3  00 

Hazelhurst's  Towers  and  Tanks  for  Water-works  8vo,  2  50 

Herschel's  115  Experiments  on  the  Carrying  Capacity  of  Large,  Riveted,  Metal 

Conduits  8vo,  2  00 

Hoyt  and  Grover's  River  Discharge                                                     .  .8vo,  2  00 

Hubbard  and  Kiersted's  Water-works  Management  and  Maintenance. 

8vo,  4  00 

*  Lyndon's  Development  and  Electrical  Distribution  of  Water  Power. 

8vo,  3  00 

Mason's  Water-supply.     (Considered  Principally  from  a  Sanitary  Stand- 
point.) 8vo,  4  00 

Merriman's  Treatise  on  Hydraulics  8vo,  5  00 

*  Molitor's  Hydraulics  of  Rivers,  Weirs  and  Sluicc3  8vo,  2  00 

*  Richards's  Laboratory  Notes  on  Industrial  Water  Analysis  8vo,  50 

Schuyler's  Reservoirs  for  Irrigation,  Water-power,  and  Domestic  "Water- 
supply.    Second  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged  Large  8vo,  6  00 

*  Thomas  and  Watt's  Improvement  of  Rivers  4to,  6  00 

Turneaure  and  Russell's  Public  Water-supplies  8vo,  5  00 

Wegmann's  Design  and  Construction  of  Dams.    5th  Ed.,  enlarged  4to,  6  00 

Water-Supply  of  the  City  of  New  York  from  1658  to  1895  4to,  10  00 

Whipple's  Value  of  Pure  Water  Large  12mo,  1  00 

Williams  and  Hazen's  Hydraulic  Tables  8vo,  1  50 

Wilson's  Irrigation  Engineering  8vo,  4  00 

Wood's  Turbines  8vo,  2  50 


MATERIALS  OF  ENGINEERING. 


Baker's  Roads  and  Pavements  8vo,  5  00 

Treatise  on  Masonry  Construction  8vo,  5  00 

Black's  United  States  Public  Works  Oblong  4to,  5  00 

Blanchard's  Bituminous  Roads.     (In  Press.) 

Bleininger's  Manufacture  of  Hydraulic  Cement.     (In  Preparation.) 

*  Bovey's  Strength  of  Materials  and  Theory  of  Structures  8vo,  7  50 

Burr's  Elasticity  and  Resistance  of  the  Materials  of  Engineering  8vo,  7  50 

Byrne's  Highway  Construction  8vo,  5  00 

Inspection  of  the  Materials  and  Workmanship  Employed  in  Construction. 

16mo,  3  00 

Church's  Mechanics  of  Engineering  8vo,  6  00 

Du  Bois's  Mechanics  of  Engineering. 

Vol.    I.  Kinematics,  Statics,  Kinetics  Small  4to,  7  50 

Vol.  II.  The  Stresses  in  Framed  Structures,  Strength  of  Materials  and 

Theory  of  Flexures  Small  4to,  10  00 

*  Eckel's  Cements,  Limes,  and  Plasters  8vo,  6  00 

Stone  and  Clay  Products  used  in  Engineering.    (In  Preparation.) 

Fowler's  Ordinary  Foundations  8vo,  3  50 

*  Greene's  Structural  Mechanics  8vo,  2  50 

*  Holley's  Lead  and  Zinc  Pigments  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Holley  and  Ladd's  Analysis  of  Mixed  Paints,  Color  Pigments  and  Varnishes. 

Large  12mo,  2  50 
Johnson's  (C.  M.)  Rapid  Methods  for  the  Chemical  Analysis  of  Special  Steels, 

Steel-making  Alloys  and  Graphite  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Johnson's  (J.  B.)  Materials  of  Construction  Large  8vo,  6  00 

Keep's  Cast  Iron  8vo,  2  50 

Lanza's  Applied  Mechanics  8vo,  7  50 

Maire's  Modern  Pigments  and  their  Vehicles  12mo,  2  00 

Martens's  Handbook  on  Testing  Materials.    (Henning.)    2  vols  8vo,  7  50 

Maurer's  Technical  Mechanics  8vo,  4  00 

Merrill's  Stones  for  Building  and  Decoration  8vo,  5  00 

Merriman's  Mechanics  of  Materials  8vo,  5  00 

*  Strength  of  Materials  12mo,  1  00 

Metcalf's  Steel.    A  Manual  for  Steel-users  12mo,  2  00 

Morrison's  Highway  Engineering  8vo,  2  50 

Patton's  Practical  Treatise  on  Foundations  8vo,  5  00 

Rice's  Concrete  Block  Manufacture  8vo,  2  00 


Richardson's  Modern  Asphalt  Pavements  8vo,  $3  00 

Richey's  Building  Foreman's  Pocket  Book  and  Ready  Reference.  16mo,mor.  5  00 

*  Cement  Workers'  and  Plasterers'  Edition  (Building  Mechanics'  Ready 

Reference  Series)  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Handbook  for  Superintendents  of  Construction  16mo,  mor.  4  00 

*  Stone    and    Brick    Masons'    Edition   (Building    Mechanics'  Ready 

Reference  Series)  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

*  Ries's  Clays:  Their  Occurrence,  Properties,  and  Uses  8vo,  5  00 

*  Ries  and  Leighton's  History  of  the  Clay-working  Industry  of  the  United 

States  8vo.  2  50 

Sabin's  Industrial  and  Artistic  Technology  of  Paint  and  Varnish  8vo,  3  00 

Smith's  Strength  of  Material  12mo, 

Snow's  Principal  Species  of  Wood  8vo,  3  50 

Spalding's  Hydraulic  Cement  12mo,  2  00 

Text-book  on  Roads  and  Pavements  12mo,  2  00 

Taylor  and  Thompson's  Treatise  on  Concrete,  Plain  and  Reinforced  8vo,  5  00 

Thurston's  Materials  of  Engineering.    In  Three  Parts  8vo,  8  00 

Part  I.    Non-metallic  Materials  of  Engineering  and  Metallurgy..  .  .8vo,  2  00 

Part  II.    Iron  and  Steel  8vo,  3  50 

Part  III.    A  Treatise  on  Brasses,  Bronzes,  and  Other  Alloys  and  their 

Constituents  8vo,  2  50 

Tillson's  Street  Pavements  and  Paving  Materials  8vo,  4  00 

Turneaure  and  Maurer's  Principles  of  Reinforced  Concrete  Construction. 

Second  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged  8vo,  3  50 

Waterbury's  Cement  Laboratory  Manual  12mo,  1  00 

Wood's  (De  V.)  Treatise  on  the  Resistance  of  Materials,  and  an  Appendix  on 

the  Preservation  of  Timber  8vo,  2  00 

Wood's  (M.  P.)  Rustless  Coatings:  Corrosion  and  Electrolysis  of  Iron  and 

Steel  8vo,  4  00 


RAILWAY  ENGINEERING. 


Andrews's  Handbook  for  Street  Railway  Engineers  3X5  inches,  mor.  1  25 

Berg's  Buildings  and  Structures  of  American  Railroads  4to,  5  00 

Brooks's  Handbook  of  Street  Railroad  Location  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Butts's  Civil  Engineer's  Field-book  16mo,  mor.  2  50 

Crandall's  Railway  and  Other  Earthwork  Tables  8vo,  1  50 

Transition  Curve  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

*  Crockett's  Methods  for  Earthwork  Computations  8vo,  1  50 

Dredge's  History  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad.  (1879)  Papei  5  00 

Fisher's  Table  of  Cubic  Yards  Cardboard,  25 

Godwin-'s  Railroad  Engineers'  Field-book  and  Explorers'  Guide. .  16mo,  mor.  2  50 
Hudson's  Tables  for  Calculating  the  Cubic  Contents  of  Excavations  and  Em- 
bankments 8vo,  1  00 

Ives  and  Hilts's  Problems  in  Surveying,  Railroad  Surveying  and  Geodesy 

16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Molitor  and  Beard's  Manual  for  Resident  Engineers  16mo,  1  00 

Nagle's  Field  Manual  for  Railroad  Engineers  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

*  Orrock's  Railroad  Structures  and  Estimates  8vo,  3  00 

Philbrick's  Field  Manual  for  Engineers  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

Raymond's  Railroad  Engineering.    3  volumes. 

Vol.     I.  Railroad  Field  Geometry.     (In  Preparation.) 

Vol.    II.  Elements  of  Railroad  Engineering  8vo,  3  50 

Vol.  III.  Railroad  Engineer's  Field  Book.     (In  Preparation.) 

Searles's  Field  Engineering  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

Railroad  Spiral  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Taylor's  Prismoidal  Formula?  and  Earthwork  8vo,  1  50 

*  Trautwine's  Field  Practice  of  Laying  Out  Circular  Curves  for  Railroads. 

12mo,  mor.  2  50 
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bankments by  the  Aid  of  Diagrams  8vo,  2  00 

Webb's  Economics  of  Railroad  Construction  Large  12mo,  2  50 

Railroad  Construction  lomo,  mor.  5  00 

Wellington's  Economic  Theory  of  the  Location  of  Railways  Large  12mo,  5  00 

Wilson's  Elements  of  Railroad-Track  and  Construction  12mo,  2  00 

9 


DRAWING. 


Barr's  Kinematics  of  Machinery  8vo,  $2  50 

*  Bartlett's  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  3  00 

*  "                    "             "          Abridged  Ed  8vo,  1  50 

Coolidge's  Manual  of  Drawing  8vo,  paper,  1  00 

Coolidge  and  Freeman's  Elements  of  General  Drafting  for  Mechanical  Engi- 
neers Oblong  4to,  2  50 

Durley's  Kinematics  of  Machines  8vo,  4  00 

Emch's  Introduction  to  Projective  Geometry  and  its  Application  8vo,  2  50 

French  and  Ives'  Stereotomy  8vo,  2  50 

Hill's  Text-book  on  Shades  and  Shadows,  and  Perspective  8vo,  2  00 

Jamison's  Advanced  Mechanical  Drawing  Svo,  2  00 

Elements  of  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  2  50 

Jones's  Machine  Design: 

Part  I.    Kinematics  of  Machinery  8vo,  1  50 

Part  II.  Form,  Strength,  and  Proportions  of  Parts  8vo,  3  00 

Kimball  and  Barr's  Machine  Design.    (In  Press.) 

MacCord's  Elements  of  Descritpive  Geometry  8vo,  3  00 

Kinematics;  or,  Practical  Mechanism  8vo,  5  00 

Mechanical  Drawing  4to,  4  00 

Velocity  Diagrams  8vo,  1  50 

McLeod's  Descriptive  Geometry  Large  12mo,  1  50 

*  Mahan's  Descriptive  Geometry  and  Stone-cutting  8vo,  1  50 

Industrial  Drawing.    (Thompson.)  8vo,  3  50 

Moyer's  Descriptive  Geometry  8vo,  2  00 

Reed's  Topographical  Drawing  and  Sketching  4to,  5  00 

Reid's  Course  in  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  2  00 

Text-book  of  Mechanical  Drawing  and  Elementary  Machine  Design.. 8vo,  3  00 

Robinson's  Principles  of  Mechanism  8vo,  3  00 

Schwamb  and  Merrill's  Elements  of  Mechanism  8vo,  3  00 

Smith  (A.  W.)  and  Marx's  Machine  Design  8vo,  3  00 

Smith's  (R.  S.)  Manual  of  Topographical  Drawing.    (McMillan)  8vo,  2  50 

*  Titsworth's  Elements  of  Mechanical  Drawing  Oblong  8vo,  1  25 

Warren's  Drafting  Instruments  and  Operations  12mo,  1  25 

Elements  of  Descriptive  Geometry,  Shadows,  and  Perspective  8vo,  3  50 

Elements  of  Machine  Construction  and  Drawing  8vo,  7  50 

Elements  of  Plane  and  Solid  Free-hand  Geometrical  Drawing.  .  .  .  12mo,  1  00 

General  Problems  of  Shades  and  Shadows  8vo,  3  00 

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Shadow  12mo,  1  00 

Manual  of  Elementary  Projection  Drawing  12mo,  1  50 

Plane  Problems  in  Elementary  Geometry                                     12mo,  1  25 

Problems,  Theorems,  and  Examples  in  Descriptive  Geometry  8vo,  2  50 

Weisbach's    Kinematics   and    Power   of    Transmission.     (Hermann  and 

Klein.)  8vo,  5  00 

Wilson's  (H.  M.)  Topographic  Surveying  8vo,  3  50 

*  Wilson's  (V.  T.)  Descriptive  Geometry  8vo,  1  50 

Free-hand  Lettering  8vo,  1  00 

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Woolf's  Elementary  Course  in  Descriptive  Geometry  Large  8vo,  3  00 


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*Abegg's  Theory  of  Electrolytic  Dissociation,    (von  Ende.)               .12mo,  1  25 

Andrews's  Hand-book  for  Street  Railway  Engineering  3X5  inches,  mor.  1  25 

Anthony  and  Brackett's  Text-book  of  Physics.    (Magie.) ...  .Large  12mo,  3  00 
Anthony  and  Ball's  Lecture-notes  on  the  Theory  of  Electrical  Measure- 
ments 12mo,  1  00 

Benjamin's  History  of  Electricity  8vo,  3  00 

Voltaic  Cell  8vo,  3  00 

10 


Betts's  Lead  Refining  and  Electrolysis  8vo,  $4  00 

Classen's  Quantitative  Chemical  Analysis  by  Electrolysis.     (Boltwood.).8vo,  3  00 

*  Collins's  Manual  of  Wireless  Telegraphy  and  Telephony  12mo,  1  50 

Mor.  2  00 

Crehore  and  Squier's  Polarizing  Photo-chronograph  8vo,  3  00 

*  Danneel's  Electrochemistry.     (Merriam.)  12mo,  1  25 

Dawson's  "Engineering"  and  Electric  Traction  Pocket-book.  .  .  .  16mo,  mor.  5  00 
Dolezalek's  Theory  of  the  Lead  Accumulator  (Storage  Battery),     (von  Ende.) 

12mo,  2  50 

Duhem's  Thermodynamics  and  Chemistry.     (Burgess.)  8vo,  4  00 

Flather's  Dynamometers,  and  the  Measurement  of  Power  12mo,  3  00 

Getman's  Introduction  to  Physical  Science  12mo, 

Gilbert's  De  Magnete.    (Mottelay)  8vo,  2  50 

*  Hanchett's  Alternating  Currents  12mo,  1  00 

Hering's  Ready  Reference  Tables  (Conversion  Factors)  16mo,  mor.  2  50 

*  Hobart  and  Ellis's  High-speed  Dynamo  Electric  Machinery  8vo,  6  00 

Holman's  Precision  of  Measurements  8vo,  2  00 

Telescopic  Mirror-scale  Method,  Adjustments,  and  Tests..  .  .Large  8vo,  75 

*  KarapetofT's  Experimental  Electrical  Engineering  8vo,  6  00 

Kinzbrunner's  Testing  of  Continuous-current  Machines  8vo,  2  00 

Landauer's  Spectrum  Analysis.     (Tingle.)  8vo,  3  00 

Le  Chatelier's  High-temperature  Measurements.  (Boudouard — Burgess.)  12mo,  3  00 

Lob's  Electrochemistry  of  Organic  Compounds.     (Lorenz)  8vo,  3  00 

*  Lyndon's  Development  and  Electrical  Distribution  of  Water  Power.  .8vo,  3  00 

*  Lyons's  Treatise  on  Electromagnetic  Phenomena.  Vols,  I  .and  II.  8vo,  each,  6  00 

*  Michie's  Elements  of  Wave  Motion  Relating  to  Sound  and  Light  8vo,  4  00 

Morgan's  Outline  of  the  Theory  of  Solution  and  its  Results  12mo,  1  00 

*  Physical  Chemistry  for  Electrical  Engineers  12mo,  1  50 

*  Norris's  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Electrical  Engineering  8vo,  2  50 

Norris  and  Dennison's  Course  of  Problems  on  the  Electrical  Characteristics  of 

Circuits  and  Machines.     (In  Press.) 

*  Parshall  and  Hobart's  Electric  Machine  Design                   .4to,  half  mor,  12  50 

Reagan's  Locomotives:  Simple,  Compound,  and  Electric.    New  Edition. 

Large  12mo,  3  50 

*  Rosenberg's  Electrical  Engineering.    (Haldane  Gee — Kinzbrunner.) .  .  8vo,  2  00 

Ryan,  Norris,  and  Hoxie's  Electrical  Machinery.    Vol.  1  8vo,  2  50 

Schapper's  Laboratory  Guide  for  Students  in  Physical  Chemistry  12mo,  1  00 

*  Tillman's  Elementary  Lessons  in  Heat  8vo,  1  50 

Tory  and  Pitcher's  Manual  of  Laboratory  Physics  Large  12mo,  2  00 

Ulke's  Modern  Electrolytic  Copper  Refining  8vo,  3  00 


LAW. 

*  Brennan's  Hand-book  of  Useful  Legal  Information  for  Business  Men. 


16mo,  mor.  5  00 

*  Davis's  Elements  of  Law  8vo,  2  50 

*  Treatise  on  the  Military  Law  of  United  States  8vo,  7  00 

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Manual  for  Courts-martial  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Wait's  Engineering  and  Architectural  Jurisprudence  8vo,  6  00 

Sheep,  6  50 

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Architecture  8vo,  5  00 

Sheep,  5  50 


MATHEMATICS. 


Baker's  Elliptic  Functions  8vo,  1  50 

Briggs's  Elements  of  Plane  Analytic  Geometry.     (Bocher)  12mo,  1  00 

*  Buchanan's  Plane  and  Spherical  Trigonometry  8vo,  1  00 

11 


Byerley's  Harmonic  Functions  8vo,  $1  00 

Chandler's  Elements  of  the  Infinitesimal  Calculus  12mo,  2  00 

*  Coffin's  Vector  Analysis  12mo,  2  50 

Compton's  Manual  of  Logarithmic  Computations  12mo,  1  50 

*  Dickson's  College  Algebra  Large  12mo,  1  50 

*  Introduction  to  the  Theory  of  Algebraic  Equations  Large  12mo,  1  25 

Emch's  Introduction  to  Projective  Geometry  and  its  Application  8vo,  2  50 

Fiske's  Functions  of  a  Complex  Variable  8vo,  1  00 

Halsted's  Elementary  Synthetic  Geometry  8vo,  1  50 

Elements  of  Geometry  8vo,  1  75 

*  Rational  Geometry  12mo,  1  50 

Synthetic  Projective  Geometry  8vo,  1  00 

Hyde's  Grassmann's  Space  Analysis  8vo,  1  00 

*  Johnson's  (J.  B.)  Three-place  Logarithmic  Tables:  Vest-pocket  size,  paper,  15 

*  100  copies,  5  00 

*  Mounted  on  heavy  cardboard,  8  X  10  inches,  25 

*  10  copies,  2  00 

Johnson's  (W.  W.)  Abridged  Editions  of  Differential  and  Integral  Calculus. 

Large  12mo,  1  vol.  2  50 

Curve  Tracing  in  Cartesian  Co-ordinates  12mo,  1  00 

Differential  Equations  8vo,  1  00 

Elementary  Treatise  on  Differential  Calculus  Large  12mo,  1  50 

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*  Theoretical  Mechanics  12mo,  3  00 

Theory  of  Errors  and  the  Method  of  Least  Squares  12mo,  1  50 

Treatise  on  Differential  Calculus  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Treatise  on  the  Integral  Calculus  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Treatise  on  Ordinary  and  Partial  Differential  Equations.  .  .Large  12mo,  3  50 

Karapetoff's  Engineering  Applications  of  Higher  Mathematics. 

(In  Preparation.) 

Laplace's  Philosophical  Essay  on  Probabilities.  (Truscott  and  Emory.) .  12mo,  2  00 

*  Ludlow  and  Bass's  Elements  of  Trigonometry  and  Logarithmic  and  Other 

Tables  8vo,  3  00 

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*  Ludlow's  Logarithmic  and  Trigonometric  Tables  8vo,  1  00 

Macfarlane's  Vector  Analysis  and  Quaternions  8vo,  1  00 

McMahon's  Hyperbolic  Functions  8vo,  1  00 

Manning's  Irrational  Numbers  and  their  Representation  by  Sequences  and 

Series  12mo,  1  25 

Mathematical  Monographs.    Edited  by  Mansfield  Merriman  and  Robert 

S.  Woodward  Octavo,  each  1  00 

No.  1.  History  of  Modern  Mathematics,  by  David  Eugene  Smith. 
No.  2.  Synthetic  Projective  Geometry,  by  George  Bruce  Halsted. 
No.  3.  Determinants,  by  Laenas  Gifford  Weld.  No.  4.  Hyper- 
bolic Functions,  by  James  McMahon.  No.  5.  Harmonic  Func- 
tions, by  William  E.  Byerly.  No.  6.  Grassmann's  Space  Analysis, 
by  Edward  W.  Hyde.  No.  7.  Probability  and  Theory  of  Errors, 
by  Robert  S.  Woodward.  No.  8.  Vector  Analysis  and  Quaternions, 
by  Alexander  Macfarlane.  No.  9.  Differential  Equations,  by 
William  Woolsey  Johnson.  No.  10.  The  Solution  of  Equations, 
by  Mansfield  Merriman.  No.  11.  Functions  of  a  Complex  Variable, 
by  Thomas  S.  Fiske. 

Maurer's  Technical  Mechanics  8vo,  4  00 

Merriman's  Method  of  Least  Squares  8vo,  2  00 

Solution  of  Equations  8vo,  1  00 

Rice  and  Johnson's  Differential  and  Integral  Calculus.    2  vols,  in  one. 

Large  12mo,  1  50 

Elementary  Treatise  on  the  Differential  Calculus  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Smith's  History  of  Modern  Mathematics  8vo,  1  00 

*  Veblen  and  Lennes's  Introduction  to  the  Real  Infinitesimal  Analysis  of  One 

Variable  8vo,  2  00 

*  Waterbury's  Vest  Pocket  Hand-book  of  Mathematics  for  Engineers. 

2|X5f  inches,  mor.  1  00 

Weld's  Determinants  8vo,  1  00 

Wood's  Elements  of  Co-ordinate  Geometry  8vo,  2  00 

Woodward's  Probability  and  Theory  of  Errors  8vo,  1  00 


12 


MECHANICAL  ENGINEERING. 


MATERIALS  OF  ENGINEERING,  STEAM-ENGINES  AND  BOILERS. 

Bacon's  Forge  Practice  12mo,  $1  50 

Baldwin's  Steam  Heating  for  Buildings  12mo,  2  50 

Barr's  Kinematics  of  Machinery  8vo,  2  50 

*  Bartlett's  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  3  00 

*  "                "               "      Abridged  Ed  8vo,  1  50 

*  Burr's  Ancient  and  Modern  Engineering  and  the  Isthmian  Canal  8vo,  3  50 

Carpenter's  Experimental  Engineering  8vo,  6  00 

Heating  and  Ventilating  Buildings  8vo,  4  00 

Clerk's  Gas  and  Oil  Engine.     (New  edition  in  press.) 

Compton's  First  Lessons  in  Metal  Working  12mo,  1  50 

Compton  and  De  Groodt's  Speed  Lathe  12mo,  1  50 

Coolidge's  Manual  of  Drawing  8vo,  paper,  1  00 

Coolidge  and  Freeman's  Elements  of  Geenral  Drafting  for  Mechanical  En- 
gineers Oblong  4to,  2  50 

Cromwell's  Treatise  on  Belts  and  Pulleys  12mo,  1  50 

Treatise  on  Toothed  Gearing  12mo,  1  50 

Dingey's  Machinery  Pattern  Making  12mo,  2  00 

Durley's  Kinematics  of  Machines  8vo,  4  00 

Flanders's  Gear-cutting  Machinery  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Flather's  Dynamometers  and  the  Measurement  of  Power  12mo,  3  00 

Rope  Driving  12mo,  2  00 

Gill's  Gas  and  Fuel  Analysis  for  Engineers  12mo,  1  25 

Goss's  Locomotive  Sparks  8vo,  2  00 

Greene's  Pumping  Machinery.     (In  Preparation.) 

Hering's  Ready  Reference  Tables  (Conversion  Factors)  16mo,  mor.  2  50 

*  Hobart  and  Ellis's  High  Speed  Dynamo  Electric  Machinery  8vo,  6  00 

Hutton's  Gas  Engine  8vo,  5  00 

Jamison's  Advanced  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  2  00 

Elements  of  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  2  50 

Jones's  Gas  Engine  8vo,  4  00 

Machine  Design: 

Part  I.    Kinematics  of  Machinery  8vo,  1  50 

Part  II.    Form,  Strength,  and  Proportions  of  Parts  8vo,  3  00 

Kent's  Mechanical  Engineer's  Pocket-Book  16mo,  mor.  5  00 

Kerr's  Power  and  Power  Transmission  8vo,  2  00 

Kimball  and  Barr's  Machine  Design.     (In  Press.) 

Levin's  Gas  Engine.     (In  Press.)  8vo, 

Leonard's  Machine  Shop  Tools  and  Methods  8vo,  4  00 

*  Lorenz's  Modern  Refrigerating  Machinery.  (Pope,  Haven,  and  Dean)..8vo,  4  00 
MacCord's  Kinematics;  or,  Practical  Mechanism  8vo,  5  00 

Mechanical  Drawing  4to,  4  00 

Velocity  Diagrams  8vo,  1  50 

MacFarland's  Standard  Reduction  Factors  for  Gases  8vo,  1  50 

Mahan's  Industrial  Drawing.     (Thompson.)  8vo,  3  50 

Mehrtens's  Gas  Engine  Theory  and  Design  Large  12mo,  2  50 

Oberg's  Handbook  of  Small  Tools  Large  12mo,  3  00 

*  Parshall  and  Hobart's  Electric  Machine  Design.  Small  4to,  half  leather,  12  50 

Peele's  Compressed  Air  Plant  for  Mines  8vo,  3  00 

Poole's  Calorific  Power  of  Fuels  8vo,  3  00 

*  Porter's  Engineering  Reminiscences,  1855  to  1882  8vo,  3  00 

Reid's  Course  in  Mechanical  Drawing  8vo,  2  00 

Text-book  of  Mechanical  Drawing  and  Elementary  Machine  Design. 8vo,  3  00 

Richards's  Compressed  Air  12mo,  1  50 

Robinson's  Principles  of  Mechanism  8vo,  3  00 

Schwamb  and  Merrill's  Elements  of  Mechanism  8vo,  3  00 

Smith  (A.  W.)  and  Marx's  Machine  Design  8vo,  3  00 

Smith's  (O.)  Press-working  of  Metals  8vo,  3  00 

Sorel's  Carbureting  and  Combustion  in  Alcohol  Engines.     (Woodward  and 

Preston.)  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Stone's  Practical  Testing  of  Gas  and  Gas  Meters  8vo,  3  50 

13 


Thurston's  Animal  as  a  Machine  and  Prime  Motor,  and  the  Laws  of  Energetics. 

12mo,  $1  00 

Treatise  on  Friction  and  Lost  Work  in  Machinery  and  Mill  Work.  .  .8vo,  3  00 

*  Tillson's  Complete  Automobile  Instructor  16mo,  1  50 

*  Titsworth's  Elements  of  Mechanical  Drawing  Oblong  8vo,  1  25 

Warren's  Elements  of  Machine  Construction  and  Drawing  8vo,  7  50 

*  Waterbury's  Vest  Pocket  Hand-book  of  Mathematics  for  Engineers. 

2|X5f  inches,  mor.  1  00 
Weisbach's   Kinematics  and   the  Power  of  Transmission.     (Herrmann — 

Klein.)  8vo,  5  00 

Machinery  of  Transmission  and  Governors.     (Hermann — Klein.).  .  8vo,  5  00 

Wood's  Turbines  8vo,  2  50 


MATERIALS  OF  ENGINEERING. 

*  Bovey's  Strength  of  Materials  and  Theory  of  Structures  8vo,  7  50 

Burr's  Elasticity  and  Resistance  of  the  Materials  of  Engineering  8vo,  7  50 

Church's  Mechanics  of  Engineering  8vo,  6  00 

*  Greene's  Structural  Mechanics  8vo,  2  50 

*  Holley's  Lead  and  Zinc  Pigments  Large  12mo  3  00 

Holley  and  Ladd's  Analysis  of  Mixed  Paints,  Color  Pigments,  and  Varnishes. 

Large  12mo,  2  50 
Johnson's  (C.  M.)  Rapid   Methods  for  the  Chemical  Analysis  of  Special 

Steels,  Steel-Making  Alloys  and  Graphite  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Johnson's  (J.  B.)  Materials  of  Construction  8vo,  6  00 

Keep's  Cast  Iron  8vo,  2  50 

Lanza's  Applied  Mechanics  8vo,  7  50 

Maire's  Modern  Pigments  and  their  Vehicles  12mo,  2  00 

Martens's  Handbook  on  Testing  Materials.     (Henning.)  8vo:  7  50 

Maurer's  Techincal  Mechanics  8vo,  4  00 

Merriman's  Mechanics  of  Materials  8vo,  5  00 

*  Strength  of  Materials  12mo,  1  00 

Metcalf's  Steel.     A  Manual  for  Steel-users  12mo,  2  00 

Sabin's  Industrial  and  Artistic  Technology  of  Paint  and  Varnish  8vo,  3  00 

Smith's  ((A.  W.)  Materials  of  Machines  12mo,  1  00 

Smith's  (H.  E.)  Strength  of  Material  12mo, 

Thurston's  Materials  of  Engineering  3  vols.,  8vo,  8  00 

Part  I.    Non-metallic  Materials  of  Engineering  8vo,  2  00 

Part  II.    Iron  and  Steel  8vo,  3  50 

Part  III.    A  Treatise  on  Brasses,  Bronzes,  and  Other  Alloys  and  their 

Constituents  ...8vo,  2  50 

Wood's  (De  V.)  Elements  of  Analytical  Mechanics  8vo,  3  00 

Treatise  on  the  Resistance  of  Materials  and  an  Appendix  on  the 

Preservation  of  Timber  8vo,  2  00 

Wood's  (M.  P.)  Rustless  Coatings:  Corrosion  and  Electrolysis  of  Iron  and 

Steel  8vo,  4  00 


STEAM-ENGINES  AND  BOILERS. 


 12mo, 

2 

00 

Carnot's  Reflections  on  the  Motive  Power  of  Heat.     (Thurston  ) 

 12mo, 

1 

50 

 12mo, 

2 

50 

 8vo, 

5 

00 

Dawson's  "Engineering"  and  Electric  Traction  Pocket-book.  ..  . 

16mo,  mor. 

5 

00 

 18mo, 

1 

00 

 8vo, 

6 

00 

 8vo, 

5 

00 

Hemenway's  Indicator  Practice  and  Steam-engine  Economy. .  .  . 

 12mo, 

2 

00 

 8vo, 

5 

00 

 8vo, 

5 

00 

 8vo, 

4 

00 

14 


Kneass's  Practice  and  Theory  of  the  Injector  8vo,  $1  50 

MacCord's  Slide-valves  8vo,  2  00 

Meyer's  Modern  Locomotive  Construction  4to,  10  00 

Mover's  Steam  Turbine  8vo,  4  00 

Peabody's  Manual  of  the  Steam-engine  Indicator  12mo,  1  50 

Tables  of  the  Properties  of  Steam  and  Other  Vapors  and  Temperature- 
Entropy  Table  8vo,  1  00 

Thermodynamics  of  the  Steam-engine  and  Other  Heat-engines.  ,  .  ,8vo.  5  00 

Valve-gears  for  Steam-engines  8vo.  2  50 

Peabody  and  Miller's  Steam-boilers  8vo,  4  00 

Pupin's  Thermodynamics  of  Reversible  Cycles  in  Gases  and  Saturated  Vapors. 

(Osterberg.)  12mo.  1  25 

Reagan's  Locomotives:  Simple,  Compound,  and  Electric.    New  Edition. 

Large  12mo,  3  50 

Sinclair's  Locomotive  Engine  Running  and  Management  12mo.  2  00 

Smart's  Handbook  of  Engineering  Laboratory  Practice  12mo,  2  50 

Snow's  Steam-boiler  Practice  8vo,  3  00 

Spangler's  Notes  on  Thermodynamics  12mo,  1  00 

Valve-gears  8vo,  2  50 

Spangler,  Greene,  and  Marshall's  Elements  of  Steam-engineering  8vo  3  00 

Thomas's  Steam-turbines  8vo.  4  00 

Thurston's  Handbook  of  Engine  and  Boiler  Trials,  and  the  Use  of  the  Indi- 
cator and  the  Prony  Brake  8vo,  5  00 

Handy  Tables  8vo,  1  50 

Manual  of  Steam-boilers,  their  Designs,  Construction,  and  Operation  8vo.  5  00 

Manual  of  the  Steam-engine  2vols..  8vo.  ]0  00 

Part  I.    History,  Structure,  and  Theory.  8vo,  6  00 

Part  II.    Design,  Construction,  and  Operation  8vo.  6  00 

Steam-boiler  Explosions  in  Theory  and  in  Practice  12mo,  1  50 

Wehrenfennig's  Analysis  and  Softening  of  Boiler  Feed- water.  (Patterson). 

8vo,  4  00 

Weisbach's  Heat,  Steam,  and  Steam-engines.    (Du  Bois.)  8vo.  5  00 

Whitham's  Steam-engine  Design  8vo,  5  00 

Wood's  Thermodynamics,  Heat  Motors,  and  Refrigerating  Machines.  .  .8vo,  4  00 


MECHANICS  PURE  AND  APPLIED. 


Church's  Mechanics  of  Engineering  8vo.  6  00 

Notes  and  Examples  in  Mechanics  8vo,  2  00 

Dana's  Text-book  of  Elementary  Mechanics  for  Colleges  and  Schools  .12mo,  1  50 
Du  Bois's  Elementary  Principles  of  Mechanics: 

Vol.   I.    Kinematics  8vo,  3  50 

Vol.  II.    Statics  8vo,  4  00 

Mechanics  of  Engineering.    Vol.    I  Small  4to,  7  50 

Vol.  II  Small  4to,  10  00 

*  Greene's  Structural  Mechanics  8vo,  2  50 

James's  Kinematics  of  a  Point  and  the  Rational  Mechanics  of  a  Particle. 

Large  12mo,  2  00 

*  Johnson's  (W.  W.)  Theoretical  Mechanics  12mo,  3  00 

Lanza's  Applied  Mechanics  8vo.  7  50 

*  Martin's  Text  Book  on  Mechanics.  Voi.  I,  Statics  12mo,  1  25 

*  Vol.  II,  Kinematics  and  Kinetics.  12mo.  1  50 

Maurer's  Technical  Mechanics  8vo.  4  00 

*  Merriman's  Elements  of  Mechanics  12mo,  1  00 

Mechanics  of  Materials  8vo,  5  00 

*  Michie's  Elements  of  Analytical  Mechanics  8vo,  4  00 

Robinson's  Principles  of  Mechanism  8vo,  3  00 

Sanborn's  Mechanics  Problems  Large  12mo,  1  50 

Schwamb  and  Merrill's  Elements  of  Mechanism  8vo,  3  00 

Wood's  Elements  of  Analytical  Mechanics  8vo,  3  00 

Principles  of  Elementary  Mechanics  12mo,  I  25 


15 


MEDICAL. 


*  Abderhalden's  Physiological  Chemistry  in  Thirty  Lectures.    (Hall  and 

Defren.)  8vo,  $5  00 

von  Behring's  Suppression  of  Tuberculosis.    (Bolduan.)  12mo,  100 

Bolduan's  Immune  Sera  12mo,  1  50 

Bordet's  Studies  in  Immunity.    (Gay).    (In  Press.)  8vo, 

Davenport's  Statistical  Methods  with  Special  Reference  to  Biological  Varia- 
tions 16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Ehrlich's  Collected  Studies  on  Immunity.    (Bolduan.)  8vo,  6  00 

*  Fischer's  Physiology  of  Alimentation  Large  12mo,  2  00 

de  Fursac's  Manual  of  Psychiatry.     (Rosanoff  and  Collins.)..  .  .Large  12mo,  2  50 

Hammarsten's  Text-book  on  Physiological  Chemistry.     (Mandel.)  8vo,  4  00 

Jackson's  Directions  for  Laboratory  Work  in  Physiological  Chemistry .  .8vo,  1  25 

Lassar-Cohn's  Practical  Urinary  Analysis.     (Lorenz.)  12mo,  1  00 

Mandel's  Hand-book  for  the  Bio-Chemical  Laboratory  12mo,  1  50 

*  Pauli's  Physical  Chemistry  in  the  Service  of  Medicine.     (Fischer.) .  .12mo,  1  25 

*  Pozzi-Escot's  Toxins  and  Venoms  and  their  Antibodies.    (Cohn.).  .  12mo,  1  00 

Rostoski's  Serum  Diagnosis.    (Bolduan.)  12mo,  1  00 

Ruddiman's  Incompatibilities  in  Prescriptions  8vo,  2  00 

Whys  in  Pharmacy  12mo,  1  00 

Salkowski's  Physiological  and  Pathological  Chemistry.    (Orndorff.)  .  ...8vo,  2  50 

*  Satter lee's  Outlines  of  Human  Embryology  12mo,  1  25 

Smith's  Lecture  Notes  on  Chemistry  for  Dental  Students  8vo,  2  50 

*  Whipple's  Tyhpoid  Fever  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Woodhull's  Notes  on  Military  Hygiene  16mo,  1  50 

*  Personal  Hygiene  12mo,  1  00  . 

Worcester  and  Atkinson's  Small  Hospitals  Establishment  and  Maintenance, 
and  Suggestions  for  Hospital  Architecture,  with  Plans  for  a  Small 

Hospital  ,  12mo,  1  25 


METALLURGY. 


Betts's  Lead  Refining  by  Electrolysis.   8vo,  4  00 

Bolland's  Encyclopedia  of  Founding  and  Dictionary  of  Foundry  Terms  used 

in  the  Practice  of  Moulding  12mo,  3  00 

Iron  Founder  12mo,  2  50 

Supplement  12mo,  2  50 

Douglas's  Untechnical  Addresses  on  Technical  Subjects  12mo,  1  00 

Goesel's  Minerals  and  Metals:  A  Reference  Book  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

*  Iles's  Lead-smelting  12mo,  2  50 

Johnson's  Rapid   Methods  for  the  Chemical  Analysis  of  Special  Steels, 

Steel-making  Alloys  and  Graphite  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Keep's  Cast  Iron  8vo,  2  50 

Le  Chatelier's  High-temperature  Measurements.    (Boudouard — Burgess.) 

12mo,  3  00 

Metcalf 's  Steel.     A  Manual  for  Steel-users  12mo.  2  00 

Minet's  Production  of  Aluminum  and  its  Industrial  Use.    (Waldo.).  .  12mo,  2  50 

Ruer's  Elements  of  Metallography.    (Mathewson)  8vo. 

Smith's  Materials  of  Machines  12mo,  1  00 

Tate  and  Stone's  Foundry  Practice  12mo,  2  00 

Thurston's  Materials  of  Engineering.    In  Three  Parts  8vo,  8  00 

Part  I.     Non-metallic  Materials  of  Engineering,  see  Civil  Engineering, 
page  9. 

Part  II.    Iron  and  Steel  8vo,  3  50 

Part  III.  A  Treatise  on  Brasses,  Bronzes,  and  Other  Alloys  and  their 

Constituents  8vo,  2  50 

Ulke's  Modern  Electrolytic  Copper  Refining  8vo,  3  00 

West's  American  Foundry  Practice  12mo,  2  50 

Moulders'  Text  Book  12mo,  2  50 

16 


MINERALOGY. 


Baskerville's  Chemical  Elements.    (In  Preparation.). 

Boyd's  Map  of  Southwest  Virginia  Pocket-book  form.  $2  00 

*  Browning's  Introduction  to  the  Rarer  Elements  8vo,  1  50 

Brush's  Manual  of  Determinative  Mineralogy.     (Penfield.)  8vo,  4  00 

Butler's  Pocket  Hand-book  of  Minerals  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

Chester's  Catalogue  of  Minerals  8vo,  paper,    1  00 

Cloth,  1  25 

*  Crane's  Gold  and  Silver  8vo,  5  00 

Dana's  First  Appendix  to  Dana's  New  "System  of  Mineralogy".  .Large  8vo,  1  00 
Dana's  Second  Appendix  to  Dana's  New  "  System  of  Mineralogy." 

Large  8vo, 

Manual  of  Mineralogy  and  Petrography  12mo,  2  00 

Minerals  and  How  to  Study  Them  12mo,  1  50 

System  of  Mineralogy  Large  8vo,  half  leather,  12  50 

Text-book  of  Mineralogy  8vo,  4  00 

Douglas's  Untechnical  Addresses  on  Technical  Subjects  12mo,  1  00 

Eakle's  Mineral  Tables  8vo,  1  25 

Eckel's  Stone  and  Clay  Products  Used  in  Engineering.     (In  Preparation). 

Goesel's  Minerals  and  Metals:  A  Reference  Book  16mo,  mor.  3  00 

Groth's  Introduction  to  Chemical  Crystallography  (Marshall)  12mo,  1  25 

*  Hayes's  Handbook  for  Field  Geologists  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Iddings's  Igneous  Rocks  8vo,  5  00 

Rock  Minerals  8vo,  5  00 

Johannsen's  Determination  of  Rock-forming  Minerals  in  Thin  Sections.  8vo, 

With  Thumb  Index  5  00 

*  Martin's  Laboratory    Guide   to   Qualitative   Analysis   with   the  Blow- 

pipe 12mo,  60 

Merrill's  Non-metallic  Minerals:  Their  Occurrence  and  Uses  8vo,  4  00 

Stones  for  Building  and  Decoration  8vo,  5  00 

*  Penfleld's  Notes  on  Determinative  Mineralogy  and  Record  of  Mineral  Tests. 

8vo,  paper,  50 
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Domestic  Production  8vo,  1  00 

*  Pirsson's  Rocks  and  Rock  Minerals  12mo,  2  50 

*  Richards's  Synopsis  of  Mineral  Characters  12mo,  mor.  1  25 

*  Ries's  Clays:  Their  Occurrence,  Properties  and  Uses  8vo,  5  00 

*  Ries  and  Leighton's  History  of  the  Clay-working  Industry  of  the  United 

States  8vo,  2  50 

*  Tillman's  Text-book  of  Important  Minerals  and  Rocks  8vo,  2  00 

Washington's  Manual  of  the  Chemical  Analysis  of  Rocks.  ,  ,,,,,,,,,,  ,8vo,  2  00 


MINING. 


.Large  12mo, 

3 

00 

2 

00 

 8vo, 

5 

00 

 8vo, 

4 

00 

*  8vo,  mor. 

5 

00 

Douglas's  Untechnical  Addresses  on  Technical  Subjects  

 12mo, 

1 

00 

 8vo, 

4 

00 

3 

00 

5 

00 

2 

50 

3 

00 

Riemer's  Shaft  Sinking  Under  Difficult  Conditions.    (Corning  and  Peele)  .8vo, 

3 

00 

3 

00 

Wilson's  Hydraulic  and  Placer  Mining.    2d  edition,  rewritten 

 12mo, 

2 

50 

Treatise  on  Practical  and  Theoretical  Mine  Ventilation 

 12mo, 

1 

25 

17 


SANITARY  SCIENCE. 


Association  of  State  and  National  Food  and  Dairy  Departments,  Hartford 

Meeting,  1906  8vo,  $3  00 

Jamestown  Meeting,  1907  8vo,  3  00 

*  Bashore's  Outlines  of  Practical  Sanitation  12mo,  1  25 

Sanitation  of  a  Country  House  12mo,  1  00 

Sanitation  of  Recreation  Camps  and  Parks  12mo,  1  00 

Folwell's  Sewerage.     (Designing,  Construction,  and  Maintenance.)  8vo,  3  00 

Water-supply  Engineering  8vo,  4  00 

Fowler's  Sewage  Works  Analyses  12mo,  2  00 

Fuertes's  Water-filtration  Works  12mo,  2  50 

Water  and  Public  Health  12mo,  1  50 

Gerhard's  Guide  to  Sanitary  Inspections  12mo,  1  50 

*  Modern  Baths  and  Bath  Houses  8vo,  3  00 

Sanitation  of  Public  Buildings  12mo,  1  50 

Hazen's  Clean  Water  and  How  to  Get  It  Large  12mo,  1  50 

Filtration  of  Public  Water-supplies  8vo,  3  00 

Kinnicut,  Winslow  and  Pratt's  Purification  of  Sewage.     (In  Preparation.) 
Leach's  Inspection  and  Analysis  of  Food  with  Special  Reference  to  State 

Control  8vo,  7  50 

Mason's  Examination  of  Water.    (Chemical  and  Bacteriological)  12mo,  1  25 

Water-supply.     (Considered  principally  from  a  Sanitary  Standpoint). 

8vo,  4  00 

*  Merriman's  Elements  of  Sanitary  Engineering  8vo,  2  00 

Ogden's  Sewer  Construction  8vo,  3  00 

Sewer  Design  1 2m o,  2  00 

Parsons's  Disposal  of  Municipal  Refuse  8vo,  2  00 

Prescott  and  Winslow's  Elements  of  Water  Bacteriology,  with  Special  Refer- 
ence to  Sanitary  Water  Analysis  12mo,  1  50 

*  Price's  Handbook  on  Sanitation  12mo,  1  50 

Richards's  Cost  of  Cleanness  12mo,  1  00 

Cost  of  Food.    A  Study  in  Dietaries  12mo,  1  00 

Cost  of  Living  as  Modified  by  Sanitary  Science  12mo,  1  00 

Cost  of  Shelter  12mo,  1  00 

*  Richards  and  Williams's  Dietary  Computer  8vo,  1  50 

Richards  and  Woodman's  Air,  Water,  and  Food  from  a  Sanitary  Stand- 
point 8vo,  2  00 

*  Richey's    Plumbers',    Steam-fitters',   and    Tinners'    Edition  (Building 

Mechanics'  Ready  Reference  Series)  16mo,  mor.  1  50 

Rideal's  Disinfection  and  the  Preservation  of  Food  8vo,  4  00 

Sewage  and  Bacterial  Purification  of  Sewage  8vo,  4  00 

Soper's  Air  and  Ventilation  of  Subways  12mo,  2  50 

Turneaure  and  Russell's  Public  Water-supplies  8vo,  5  00 

Venable's  Garbage  Crematories  in  America  8vo,  2  00 

Method  and  Devices  for  Bacterial  Treatment  of  Sewage  8vo,  3  00 

Ward  and  Whipple's  Freshwater  Biology.    (In  Press.) 

Whipple's  Microscopy  of  Drinking-water  8vo,  3  50 

*  Typhoid  Fever  Large  12mo,  3  00 

Value  of  Pure  Water  Large  12mo,  1  00 

Winslow's  Systematic  Relationship  of  the  Coccaceae  Large  12mo,  2  50 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Emmons's  Geological  Guide-book  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Excursion  of  the 


International  Congress  of  Geologists  Large  8 vo.  1  50 

Ferrel's  Popular  Treatise  on  the  Winds  8vo,  4  00 

Fitzgerald's  Boston  Machinist  18mo,  1  00 

Gannett's  Statistical  Abstract  of  the  World  24mor  75 

Haines's  American  Railway  Management  12mo,  2  50 

Hanausek's  The  Microscopy  of  Technical  Products.    (Winton)  8vo,  5  00 

18 


Jacobs's  Betterment  Briefs.    A  Collection  of   Published  Papers  on  Or- 
ganized Industrial  Efficiency  8vo,  S3  50 

Metcalfe's  Cost  of  Manufactures,  and  the  Administration  of  Workshops.. 8vo,  5  00 

Putnam's  Nautical  Charts  8vo,  2  00 

Ricketts's  History  of  Rensselaer  Polytechnic  Institute  1824-1894. 

Large  12mo,  3  00 

Rotherham's  Emphasised  New  Testament  Large  8vo,  2  00 

Rust's  Ex-Meridian  Altitude,  Azimuth  and  Star-finding  Tables  8vo,  5  00 

Standage's  Decoration  of  Wood,  Glass,  Metal,  etc  12mo,  2  00 

Thome's  Structural  and  Physiological  Botany.    (Bennett)  16mo,  2  25 

Westermaier's  Compendium  of  General  Botany.    (Schneider)  8vo,  2  00 

Winsiow's  Elements  of  Applied  Microscopy  12mo,  1  50 


HEBREW  AND  CHALDEE  TEXT-B000KS. 

Gesenius's  Hebrew  and  Chaldee  Lexicon  to  the  Old  Testament  Scriptures. 

(Tregelles.)  Small  4to,  half  mor,    5  00 

Green's  Elementary  Hebrew  Grammar  12mo,    1  25 


19 


GETTY  CENTER  LIBRARY 


3  3125  00140  5824 


